85 FJ1100 refurbishment/custom

[Joe Sull]

I emptied the gas tank so I could turn it over and look at the petcock. The luel line elbow fell off at a good time and I avoided disaster. Was this pressed/ epoxyed in? Wierd!


Got some more frame off and was working on the engine mounts when I was stopped with this allen screw shaft thing. How does it work? I put some force on it ccw and it does'nt budge. I tried cw just because, and I get nothing.

[big r]

That is common maladay of the fj. There is a post on the site somewhere on how to fix this. You have to safety wire spigot to the valve. Randy also sells new petcocks that are already wired and ready to go. Big R

[movenon]

Please take a look at this post . http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3251.0 and this one http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.0
George

[Joe Sull]

Thanks for the replies. I mite do the repair a little different by drill and tap #4 thru one wall and some pematex or locktite in the threads. I saw that safety thread title and ment to bookmark it but did'nt. I
tried searching for it with on results. I can guess that the elbow is'nt threaded because the vacum port would interfere. They should have both been threaded.

About the rear engine mount that I pictured above? Anybody?

[FJmonkey]

Try an impact driver/rattle gun on it. Bet it has not moved in 20 years. I doubt it has LH threads, it is just stuck.

[ribbert]

Got some more frame off and was working on the engine mounts when I was stopped with this allen screw shaft thing. How does it work? I put some force on it ccw and it does'nt budge. I tried cw just because, and I get nothing.

The job at hand aside, you should be using the allen key the other way round. As shown, much of the force you apply is lost in the springiness of the shaft. You minimise this by using the short end.
Those sort of keys are not much use on tight bolts anyway, they are difficult to press into the head while turning and even more difficult to keep straight when applying force.

A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.



Allen heads often fill with crud and one of the problems people have is tying to loosen one with the tool only half way in. This makes them more inclined to strip and difficult to keep straight. Make sure the head is clean so the tool can seat full depth.

Noel

[racerrad8]

Joe,

I can't tell, is that wrench an 8 or 10mm?

If it is the 8mm that is the head of the bolt, if it is the 10mm it is the nut.

You need to be using the 10mm and turning CCW to remove the nut. The bolt could be corroded into the hole and will not let let you turn it.

But, you will need to be able to apply more torque to get it loose that the short side of that wrench like Noel mentioned.

Randy - RPM

[Joe Sull]

I had my wife get me a set of the allen for the 3/8" drive at wally world. They did'nt have the 1/2" drive. I tried it and it's too short to reach in. I need about 3" length. It's the 10 mm side showing. I looked in the other side with a flashlight and saw a feature that looked round but it could have been 8 mm and I did'nt see the hex.
I've got to travel this week coming up for work and I won't be able to work on the bike till next saturday. When I bet home I'll cut off a 3" piece of that allen and use a 10mm socket over that. I spray penitrating oil on it and will sitting for a week. I'm taking my computer with me so I can keep in touch.

[racerrad8]

For the sockets I have I just use an extension with a ratchet and that allows the socket to fit within the frame.

This is what I used earlier today to bolt Pat's engine into the frame.




Randy - RPM

[aviationfred]

There are long shank hex bits.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-on-Tools-3-8-Dr-6Pc-Extra-Long-Metric-Hex-Ball-Driver-Socket-Set-206EFABLM-/310772175991?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item485b771477&vxp=mtr

Fred

[Capn Ron]

A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.


Noel

I have, on occasion made one of these by cutting off the long end of an allen key and inserting it into the appropriate size 6-point socket.  To Noel's point, I make it only the length needed to seat properly (no longer) to minimize the twisting loss.

Cap'n Ron. . .

[ribbert]

A set of these, they are not expensive, are a great asset in the garage. They are 1/2" drive and can be used with all your socket accessories (including long bar) and even power tools with virtually no loss of force due to twisting. They can also be belted in with a hammer to ensure a good seat before turning.


Noel

I have, on occasion made one of these by cutting off the long end of an allen key and inserting it into the appropriate size 6-point socket.  To Noel's point, I make it only the length needed to seat properly (no longer) to minimize the twisting loss.

Cap'n Ron. . .

Some years back I was the victim of a tool theft. After a protracted and unsuccessful insurance claim ( who woulda' thought!) on a technicality, I was forced to replace a lot of my quality tools with cheap stuff to tide me over.
It has never ceased to amaze me the good service most of those have provided, even with regular use.

For example, I bought a box of those 1/2" drive allen keys for under $20. They have seen a lot of use, even on air tools, and remain as good as the day I bought them.
It also allows you to justify more tools that won't necessarily see a lot of use if you haven't paid much for them.

You need to know what you can get away with buying cheap, but crap tools are way better than they used to be, but if it doesn't do the job it's straight in the bin, but there haven't been many of those.

Noel

[jscgdunn]

Hi Randy,
When working on Pat's bike, are welding goggles required, or will sunglasses work ok?

Thx,

Jeff

[racerrad8]

Hi Randy,
When working on Pat's bike, are welding goggles required, or will sunglasses work ok?

Thx,

Jeff

Well, by looking at the picture below, you can see that I do have to keep the doors closed and I had to have the bottom windows tinted to block the sun so the reflection would not burn out my retinas.



So far, that has worked well for me.

Randy - RPM

[Dan Filetti]

This is what I used earlier today to bolt Pat's engine into the frame.

Why, on god's green earth, was Pat's engine out of the bike?

Dan