85 FJ1100 refurbishment/custom

[Joe Sull]

I stripped the coil Pat. It bubbled up like paint but it was thick and rubbery scale. It looks like tool dip. If I cut a plastic bottle into two leafs and get them around the shock to mask it, I could paint the coil with red tool dip. Reading your reply about paint not working to good, sparked that idea. Thanks.

[Pat Conlon]

Tool dip, ooooh, that's good Joe....why the hell didn't I think about that? 

You should really plan on covering your shock (spring and all) with a dust boot.
It's pretty dirty under there and the shaft seals will thank you...

Cheers

[Joe Sull]

I figure that I'm about half way done with all the prep work. I got the wheels stripped. The engines almost stripped except for some stuff under the timing chain tensioner. I'll have to pressure wash with some nice hot soapy water so I'll have to plug all my holes. The frames are done. Half done with the body parts. A bunch of little odds and ends to do now. Works been slow so I've been putting in 6-7 hours a day on it.
My list for paint. I still looking into the right primer for the job. The fluorescent green is expensive and, from what I've read, fades fast. I've learned that it's a candy coat and needs a metalic white base coat. $70 a pint just for the concentrate.


Engine cases-
hydraulic slaves-
top steering clamp-
wheels-
*Duplicolor
adhesion promotor_______ cp199               1 11oz. $8.99     $8.99
metalcast_______________ mc200 red       2 11oz. $9.99    $19.98
____________________________________________________________________

Engine cylinders-
exaust system-
*VHT
Prep   FlameProof________SP445 Prep      1 11oz. $ 9.59   $ 9.59
Prime  FlameProof________SP118 Primer    1 11oz. $11.99   $11.99
Coat   FlameProof________SP109 red       1 11oz. $11.99   $11.99
Finish FlameProof________SP115 Clear     1 11oz. $11.99   $11.99
____________________________________________________________________

Primer__________________________________

frames-
license plate frame-
fairing frame-
*tcp global
ACRYLIC ENAMEL kit ______Hot Rod Red     1 quart $49.98   $49.98
____________________________________________________________________

body-
*tcp global
ACRYLIC ENAMEL kit firehorn red pearl     2 quart $49.98  $99.96
____________________________________________________________________

hand controls-
chain guard-
directionals-
rear fender-
battery box-
*Duplicolor
vinal & plastic _____________hvp100 red   1 11oz. $11.00  $11.00
_____________________________________________________________________

hand levers-
rear shock coil-
tool dip_________________________red      1 14.5oz. $12.50 $12.50
_____________________________________________________________________

Engine wiring-
Harnesses-
shrink wrap_______________________red
electrical tape___________________red     3/4x50" 6 $2.00  $12.00
_____________________________________________________________________

naptha based solvents____________________1 gallon          $10.00

___________________________________________________________$270.47





The stripper uncovered a repair under the blind plug cover I'll have to re do it.


I'll probably have to use the old exaust at least for a while.

[RD56]

Been following your post and I too have to repair the area surrounding the blind plug...looks identical. You have much more expertise than I in this area and would really appreciate your input into how you are going to tackle the repair.

Thanks for any help. Rick, 1985 FJ1100.

[Joe Sull]

I found a thread on the repair yesterday and can't find it again.
I'm just going to build up the area with jb weld. My damage is on each side of the bottom boss. The boss it self it good except for 3/16" rubbed off. I'll pot the outside with something that has the same radius like a piece of pvc pipe and mold in the putty, let it dry then shape it. I'll build up over the lower boss, around a screw with some tape around it to make clearance. I'll want to cut the head of the screw so I can drop the cover on it to set the height of the putty. If you search, you'll probably find it.

[Joe Sull]

My homemade sanding discs work good! I made a little one for the dremmel but my tool has one speed, 13000 rpm and that too harsh for the neoprene to stand. It works great in the drill though. I don't think you can see it little one in the pic the spring is almost completely compressed and theres two nuts to lock against each other. Theres a neoprene disc under the emery. An old 7mm wet suit, I had to cut the thickness down in half so that it's like 3mm thk. It won't work without the neoprene. The contact cement works fine for gluing the discs on. You know how this stuff works. The screw is a #4x2" lg. It fits in the chuck if the dremmel and if I was to put a dimmer switch in the middle to slow it down, it would work. On the larger disc, The neoprene is the full 7mm and this one works really well in the high speed drill. I can clamp the drill in the vise and work the parts easily. I'm sanding with 220 in these pics and using water.

[Joe Sull]

It get into small areas and outside corners pretty good. The neoprene allows me to roll up into the rounded inside corners. I can work the bosses to.

In all honesty, I don't recommend stripping the engine. You got to really want it. It's a bag of worms. Now that I've gotton into it, I'm starting to change my mind about putting the anodize coating on the cases. If I go so that the job is half ass, I'm there already. If I continue, It will look to nice to cover up.

[Joe Sull]

The wheel are going to be tough to work, even just to make them bright. Bright enough to apply the anodize coating so that it's effective. I could spray the base coat that they offer but that would defeat the purpose of stripping the wheels. I've worked the areas that I can with the angle grinder. My new discs will work to get somemore but the drill itself is to awkward. I wish I had one of the dremmels that has the cable drive, that would work good. If I can just sand so there bright the anodize will look good. Thanks for watching as I flounder with this.

[yampug]

looks like a real labour of love

you've got far more patience than i have

[fj1289]

Amazing amount of work -- must have LONG, COLD winters up there!

[Joe Sull]

I've kinda worked up the "silver bullet" for getting the wheel casting surfaces down to clean metal. It doesn't do everything but I can get most of the rim and the spokes. This pic is showing a man agoray of bits I've made. The dremmel sanding store bought drums with "fine" grade works best for getting under the peppered casting surface. I tried cementing a wrap of 220 on a spent drum and it works good but after dipping in water the drum starts to break up.




Let me introduct the "almost silver bullet". Cut a piece of wood dowel and coat one end with contact cement. Coat a piece sandpaper the same just enough to go around the dowel but leave a good tail, about 2". I've made 2 size, 1/4" and 3/8". Chuck it in the high speed drill dip in water and go.








When it starts to ware cut some of the tail off and if the tip wares just cut the tip off. you can sit down and make 10 and line them up.



The next step with the disc is is to get some double sided tape and make sandpaper stickons. It works good but it takes to much time to glue on the sand paper.



Good day!

[Pat Conlon]

Joe, you are investing a lot of time and effort on those pig heavy, narrow 16" rims.

You may be better off considering the 17" conversion sooner rather than later.

You might as well remove those wheel weights, you will have to rebalance them anyway.

[FJ_Hooligan]

I think we should take up a collection to replace some of those worn out rusted tools he's using.  :-)

[Joe Sull]

Hey Pat! I think all these production bike cast wheel are ugly. In my eye, one is as good as another. What I don't like is all the black. I think that I mensioned it before, I had 2 new 1100 suzukis in a row back in 83/86. I would have done the same thing to them if they were'nt new (and the bank did'nt own them). Live'n the dream buddy!
If I had the money, I'd go shopping for spoked rims. That would look good on an FJ, To me anyway.

Ya, I be taking of the wheel weights. I guess. I was'nt sure how much material had to come off to get to shiny metal. Theres probably a couple of ounces of alum flake on my bench. I'm getting close to where I want to be anyway. I ordered some duplicolor metalcast red and the adhesive promotor today. I'll do another 5 hour on each rim an that will be it.  There going to look good red anodized instead of black.

FJ_Hooligan; I'll make a list for you guy. Yes send tools

[fj johnnie]

 I admire your tenacity and can do spirit. Restoring these old bikes makes no sense at all. It is a labor of love.  So I love seeing all the pictures of what you are doing with respect to cleaning the wheels. When my wheels needed doing I brought them to a powder coater nearby and for 60 bucks each they were media blasted and coated. An entire frame and tail section was done for 220. Any color you want. Of course those are the simplest ways of doing it. Just pay someone. Keep up the good work on the FJ and keep the pics coming.