FJ1346 from ashes to... Well, we'll see...

[JMR]

It made the routing a little more direct but it works. Oh, and I couldn't use the stock brake line bracket.


[img width=600 height=800]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v127/skymasteres/Motorcycles/FJ1200%20Rebuild/Modifications/13806606599750_zps7cf16f40.jpg[/img

Why don't you use some nylon spiral wrap around that stainless line as it will cut into everything. It doesn't cost much....like pennies.

[DB Cooper]

I had the same problem when I did my swap - the rear tire wouldn't even lock up in gravel. I rarely use my rear brake, however if I have a passenger, it would be nice to have that little extra. I tried a set of EBC HH, and it made a huge difference. Not quite as good as the stock brake, but more than acceptable.
Kevin.

[1tinindian]

Try making an adjustment to the rear brake pedal.
I did that to mine earlier this year and I have more rear brake than I need, but that's OK, I can modulate it very well and plan on keeping it that way.
I'm also using Galfer rear wave rotor/ Galfer pads and SS brake line.

Leon

[skymasteres]

Try making an adjustment to the rear brake pedal.
I did that to mine earlier this year and I have more rear brake than I need, but that's OK, I can modulate it very well and plan on keeping it that way.
I'm also using Galfer rear wave rotor/ Galfer pads and SS brake line.

Leon

I'll have to look into that. As it stands now though, I have it adjusted right where it gives me great feedback and travel.

I had the same problem when I did my swap - the rear tire wouldn't even lock up in gravel. I rarely use my rear brake, however if I have a passenger, it would be nice to have that little extra. I tried a set of EBC HH, and it made a huge difference. Not quite as good as the stock brake, but more than acceptable.
Kevin.

Between you and Mark, I'll have to give those HH sintered pads a try. I'll probably bear with it for a while though as the pads in the GSXR caliper are nearly new.

[FJmonkey]

Between you and Mark, I'll have to give those HH sintered pads a try. I'll probably bear with it for a while though as the pads in the GSXR caliper are nearly new.

Then start using your rear brake as primary for all stops. You will likely get about 5 rear tires to every front...... Maybe 6 or 7....

[RichBaker]

Oh, and my charge issue seems to be temperature related. When the bike is cool in the morning the alternator is
putting out 13.8-14.1V. After a half hour this drops to a very dynamic range of 10.5-12.9V. I'm not sure what to
make of it. But it always seems to start out strong when the engine is cold...

Sounds like the regulator is breaking down when it gets hot....

[FJmonkey]

Sounds like the regulator is breaking down when it gets hot....

Broken 2nd bolt, he fixed the voltage issue for now...

[RichBaker]

Mark, I doubt the low voltage has anything to do with the broken bolt.... But, I could be wrong.

[HARTLESS]

I may have missed this but are you using an installed voltmeter or just checking periodically? it probably doesn't matter either way, but I noticed that when I installed my voltmeter it reads anywhere from 11(idle with brake lights and a signal on) to 14.5(above 2500rpm). but also sometimes I get different readings when just at idle( set at about 1300rpm) and I think it is because I used cheap wire that isn't the correct gauge for the application.

[skymasteres]

I may have missed this but are you using an installed voltmeter or just checking periodically? it probably doesn't matter either way, but I noticed that when I installed my voltmeter it reads anywhere from 11(idle with brake lights and a signal on) to 14.5(above 2500rpm). but also sometimes I get different readings when just at idle( set at about 1300rpm) and I think it is because I used cheap wire that isn't the correct gauge for the application.

Yeah, I don't think the broken bolt was the cause. But it seemed to have an effect initially.
(Although it's more likely that it was just my perception of the issue.)

I have a handlebar mounted volt meter and the sucker does dance quite a bit...



Although in my case I am using heavy enough wire that it shouldn't be causing that issue. I'm not sure if
it's maybe an electronic noise issue or what.  It just seems unreasonable that I'd have that much of a
voltage swing while riding. On the bright side though, I have high hopes for this deoxit stuff. I sprayed it
on all of the contacts for the ignition system on the V-65 and it seems to have fixed the issue of the pulse
generators dying on me after about 15 minutes of riding.

Sounds like the regulator is breaking down when it gets hot....

It seems to me that if the regulator was breaking down when it got hot, wouldn't it go the other way and
give me the full output voltage of the alternator?

[RichBaker]

Wire size should NOT matter, there should be minimal current flow to the V gauge.....   As far as the reg breaking down, it could go either way.

[HARTLESS]

I may have missed this but are you using an installed voltmeter or just checking periodically? it probably doesn't matter either way, but I noticed that when I installed my voltmeter it reads anywhere from 11(idle with brake lights and a signal on) to 14.5(above 2500rpm). but also sometimes I get different readings when just at idle( set at about 1300rpm) and I think it is because I used cheap wire that isn't the correct gauge for the application.

Yeah, I don't think the broken bolt was the cause. But it seemed to have an effect initially.
(Although it's more likely that it was just my perception of the issue.)

I have a handlebar mounted volt meter and the sucker does dance quite a bit...



Although in my case I am using heavy enough wire that it shouldn't be causing that issue. I'm not sure if
it's maybe an electronic noise issue or what.  It just seems unreasonable that I'd have that much of a
voltage swing while riding. On the bright side though, I have high hopes for this deoxit stuff. I sprayed it
on all of the contacts for the ignition system on the V-65 and it seems to have fixed the issue of the pulse
generators dying on me after about 15 minutes of riding.

Sounds like the regulator is breaking down when it gets hot....

It seems to me that if the regulator was breaking down when it got hot, wouldn't it go the other way and
give me the full output voltage of the alternator?

I have the same volt meter.. $2.99 special! could be the meter

[skymasteres]

I have the same volt meter.. $2.99 special! could be the meter

Well, I ran my good fluke voltmeter to check that and it was getting the same weird readings.

Of course, while I was working on the instrument panel MkII I happened across another possibility that might explain it.

Broken 2nd bolt, he fixed the voltage issue for now...

Close. The positive battery terminal bolt was a little loose. Or at least loose enough to allow the cables to wiggle
around. So, maybe this was the source of some of the other odd behavior. I won't know for sure  until I get this
thing done... (I'll still be cleaning all the fairing connections when I put the HID kit in to eliminate that as an issue)

I'm using a 36" wide aluminum door threshold as the source material for my second panel. It was $8 and change at
Lowes. (As opposed to $12 for a 2"x1/8"x36" piece that didn't meet my needs anyway) The only caviot is that it
takes a lot more work to get it into a usable shape.

On a side note, extruded aluminum is pretty tough stuff when you are trying to use hand tools to fatigue it and
break off a 1/8" thick flange...



Once the flange was removed and the last bit sanded down I could move onto getting everything laid out and start
cutting holes in it.



So far so good. Of course this is the mess of wires that I have to deal with on the back side of it.
(Really regretting not putting a 4pin connector on it. But maybe I'll add one in the future)


   

[movenon]

Looks good Mike. I did the same except used 3/16 - 1/4 inch sheet black plastic (PVC I think). Has a pebble texture on the face. I am going to make another one during the rebuild. Easy to drill and trim.



George

[FJmonkey]

On a side note, extruded aluminum is pretty tough stuff when you are trying to use hand tools to fatigue it and
break off a 1/8" thick flange...

What a trooper, I would had chosen grit removal, grind the #$@& off!!!