Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

The piston has to be below the deck,  you will be fine with two gaskets.

There is not any gasket sealant required on any of the gaskets you are installing. Hell,  you don't need any more lock rite either.

DO NOT use sealants!

The oil pan is the last thing to install.  The engine remains stable without it so you can get the barrels install,  head installed and cams properly timed.

Put the pan on and the thing will keep trying to tip over.

Finally,  you need to address the motor mount.

Randy - RPM

I did not use sealant only a little on the clutchcover because it had a deep scratch that have leaked before if i dont use sealant.
I have only used lock tite tread lock on the screws  that the yamaha manual instructs .i used a little on the rodbolts at first because i planned to reuse them ,but later bought new bolt and installed without the loctite on them.
The engine mount collar i did not manage to get lose i tryed many things like torchflame pressing with a puller ,hammering .If i had been more brutal the hole engine mount and enginecase would have cracked off so i stopped.

[racerrad8]

The piston has to be below the deck,  you will be fine with two gaskets.

There is not any gasket sealant required on any of the gaskets you are installing. Hell,  you don't need any more lock rite either.

DO NOT use sealants!

The oil pan is the last thing to install.  The engine remains stable without it so you can get the barrels install,  head installed and cams properly timed.

Put the pan on and the thing will keep trying to tip over.

Finally,  you need to address the motor mount.

Randy - RPM

I did not use sealant only a little on the clutchcover because it had a deep scratch that have leaked before if i dont use sealant.
I have only used lock tite tread lock on the screws  that the yamaha manual instructs .i used a little on the rodbolts at first because i planned to reuse them ,but later bought new bolt and installed without the loctite on them.
The engine mount collar i did not manage to get lose i tryed many things like torchflame pressing with a puller ,hammering .If i had been more brutal the hole engine mount and enginecase would have cracked off so i stopped.

We are way past this point of the build, that was so 2 pages ago.

Randy - RPM

[balky1]

Yep, rich. But there is other thing to consider. Richer mixture leads to colder engine. Since it is an air cooled engine, maybe it is better to have them that way than to be clean like other two.
Like I said earlier, they may be also clean because of the vacuum advance from CDI (but the question remains why the other two are so much darker). If it is working on your bike, I think you can't get a proper conclusion from reading spark plugs that way. Pat, Randy, Robert, Noel and Monkey are the people here that might give you better answers than me.

i dont have the vacum advance .I think all plugs are bad 1 and 4 is to lean and 2 and 3 is to rich .It is a little early to be sure that 1 and 4 is to lean i have to drive a little more to See if they get a light brown tan. Its a little strange that the bike runs good .I have the dial a jet system and 2 of the  air mixture adjusting  things is damaged a little . that plus the poor condition of the airbox rubber boots makes things difficult to adjust. So far i have turned the mixture screw in 1 turn on carb 2 and 3.and out a half on 1 and 4 .But that mixture screw is only for idle speed ??
I'm searching for new boots  and think i will throw the dial a jet in the bin if i cant get the engine to run cleaner.I had bought used good condition boots from eBay but when i was going to install them
they did not fit it was for a newer bike than mine.Another thing is that mayby the floats on 2 and 3 is not in right height.

Until you buy all the bad parts (boots, mixture screws, etc.) put the plugs in and ride. There is no way that you can adjust anything if it is drawing air or fuel or both in the wrong places. Here are the joints: https://www.biketeile-service.de/Yamaha-FJ-1100-21399/en/motorcycleparts/wearparts/carburetorjoints/motorcyclecarburetorjoints/carburetorjointschy12varyamahafj1100fj1200fj1200.html

[FJ_Hooligan]

The Dial-a-Jet is trash.  Do you have the outlet ports on the airfilter intakes or the boots on the engine side of the carbs?

You'll get much better results with proper jetting and needle position adjustment.

[Old Rider]

[/quote]

Until you buy all the bad parts (boots, mixture screws, etc.) put the plugs in and ride. There is no way that you can adjust anything if it is drawing air or fuel or both in the wrong places. Here are the joints: https://www.biketeile-service.de/Yamaha-FJ-1100-21399/en/motorcycleparts/wearparts/carburetorjoints/motorcyclecarburetorjoints/carburetorjointschy12varyamahafj1100fj1200fj1200.html
[/quote]

Balky that is exactly what i vas thinking that it is useless to try to adjust if the boots are bad.Thanks for the link but the boots on cylinderside is only 2 years old so it is the boots on the airfilter side i need.

[Old Rider]

The Dial-a-Jet is trash.  Do you have the outlet ports on the airfilter intakes or the boots on the engine side of the carbs?

You'll get much better results with proper jetting and needle position adjustment.

My dial a jet i think is trash now because i managed to break off some plastic on the airinntake adjuster screw on 2 of the units. The outlet ports is sitting on the airfilter side.
I spoke with a guy who has doing alot of road racing and he sayd that they give a little more power.
Before i removed the motor and broke the dial a jet units plastic  it was running fine and all plugs was light brown color. I have 2 options buy 2 new dial a jet units or throw all of them in the bin.
One thing that i really like is when putting the bike away for thr winterseason it is easy to drain the carbs .I could just keep the drain plugs and  plug the hoses .

[Pat Conlon]

See if you can buy just the drain plugs. I would be interested.

[Old Rider]

See if you can buy just the drain plugs. I would be interested.

Hi Pat i dont know what to do yet.I can try to contact the dial a jet sellers and ask if its possible to buy seperate parts.

[balky1]

Balky that is exactly what i vas thinking that it is useless to try to adjust if the boots are bad.Thanks for the link but the boots on cylinderside is only 2 years old so it is the boots on the airfilter side i need.

I've linked the boots between air box and carbs. My memory of how they exactly look is vague, but these are definitely not the joints between carbs and head.

[Old Rider]

Okay it is the part numer 14 and 15 on the partdiagram i need.

[Pat Conlon]

It's the unmetered air you have to worry about.

Do you have new #1 and #5 intake joints or if reusing your old ones, are they free of cracks and did you use fresh O rings #6 ?

If the air box boots just have holes in them from the crap dial-a-jets, seal those up with duct tape.
If you can find new ones, fine.

Again, it's the unmetered air leaking in from between the carbs and the head you need to worry about.

[krusty]

Sorry if this has already been discussed but I can't recall reading, in this thread, anything so far about a plug chop being done to ascertain fueling mixture at different throttle openings. Is this not done anymore?

[Old Rider]

It's the unmetered air you have to worry about.

Do you have new #1 and #5 intake joints or if reusing your old ones, are they free of cracks and did you use fresh O rings #6 ?

If the air box boots just have holes in them from the crap dial-a-jets, seal those up with duct tape.
If you can find new ones, fine.

Again, it's the unmetered air leaking in from between the carbs and the head you need to worry about.

Installed new inn takejoints and O rings in September 2016 .Its a good thing you mention the umetered air because when i think about it i might have forgotten to torque the 8 unbrako screws that
hold the inntakejoints in place.The joints have been mounted all the time while the head has been off and i have working on it,but i  remember i that i loosened the screws because the brackets holding the heat schield was i the way when  wetsanding the headgasket surface.I then mayby only fingertighten the screws.I cant remember that i used the torque wrench on those screws so i guess i managed
to just mount the heatshield and the carbs without torque the screws for the inntake joints  .
I will check that but today it is freezing cold and some snow has landed.a few days ago there was 25 degree Celsius hot and now only 1 degree .
Another thing i noticed is that there was wet with gasoline in the hole that the mixture screws sits ,Not sure if it was on all 4 screws have to check that to

[T Legg]

Sorry if this has already been discussed but I can't recall reading, in this thread, anything so far about a plug chop being done to ascertain fueling mixture at different throttle openings. Is this not done anymore?

That was the method I used when I set up my mikuni rs-36 carbs.The fj spark plugs are so easy to get to that I could pull them on the side of the road to look and have the bike back running in ten minutes.I run mine tan a little towards the rich side,it doesn't hurt the power but maybe increases fuel consumption.I also picked two markers on a section of road and accelerated from about 45mph to the next marker to gauge which main jet produced the most power.

[balky1]

Okay it is the part numer 14 and 15 on the partdiagram i need.

Yes, I know and I linked those. Compare the pic with the ones you have (removed). Or just install UniPods.