Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

Okay it is the part numer 14 and 15 on the partdiagram i need.

Yes, I know and I linked those. Compare the pic with the ones you have (removed). Or just install UniPods.

Okay then i dont know what is wrong because when i click the link  find only the inntake rubberboots for the cylinderside of carbs and they are the 74 kilowatt 100 hp restrickted horsepower versions.

[Old Rider]

Sorry if this has already been discussed but I can't recall reading, in this thread, anything so far about a plug chop being done to ascertain fueling mixture at different throttle openings. Is this not done anymore?

to be honest i have not heard about this .But i have googled it now and its intersting mayby i try it !

[Pat Conlon]

To get accurate plug readings disconnect the vacuum advance. (remember to plug the vacuum line)

If not, when you close (chop) those throttle plates, the vacuum advance will advance the ignition timing up to 50* which will flash off the plugs and give you a false lean reading. (white plugs)

Here is the timing curve for the 1100's the same applies to the 1200's. The lower line is the timing at low vacuum with throttle open...the upper line is high vacuum with throttle plates closed. (Remember the vacuum signal comes from between the throttle plates and the cylinders)

[Old Rider]

Thanks Pat but i dont think i have a vacuum advance on my bike ?

[balky1]

Thanks Pat but i dont think i have a vacuum advance on my bike ?

Ad 1: If you have a vacuum hose going from No. 2 intake boot (cylinder side) to the CDI, you have the advance (if it is working; try sucking - if you can suck air from CDI it is broken and disconnect it, plug it off on the intake boot).
Ad 2: This is not the picture you get when you click on my link?

Disregard the 100 PS marking. In Germany all bikes were restricted to 100 PS and hence they state it as that. If you really get a picture of intake boots on head side, they are also not restricted (says so in the description if you read it). And I've bought them and installed them (cylinder side boots) and there is no restriction in them.

[RPM - Robert]

Picture looks right but the part number is for the intake manifolds at the head.

The part numbers he wants 36Y-14463-00-00 & 36Y-14453-00-00

Maybe this is what he is talking about, but IDK.

The restriction is in the side against the head, more specifically only the side that is against the head. Instead of 36 mm it was something like 28mm but the carb side was still 36mm to accept the carb outlet.

[Pat Conlon]

I remember last year or so, someone posting about a Japanese restricted model where, in addition to the intake boots as Robert mentions above, there was also a restriction on the air box boots.

Edit: Found it...it wasn't the airbox boots that were restricted but the air horn that feeds the filter box.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18050.msg181876#msg181876

[balky1]

Picture looks right but the part number is for the intake manifolds at the head.

The part numbers he wants 36Y-14463-00-00 & 36Y-14453-00-00

Maybe this is what he is talking about, but IDK.

The restriction is in the side against the head, more specifically only the side that is against the head. Instead of 36 mm it was something like 28mm but the carb side was still 36mm to accept the carb outlet.

Aha, I didn't look at the part numbers. Sending e-mail can't hurt if he really needs them. Could have already been solved. 

Again, intake boots they sell (at least the ones they used to sell last year when I bought mine) are not restricted. And that fact is also written in the description (in German-English, but it is possible to understand it  ).

[Old Rider]

update the break in and tuning continues not had so much time riding.I have been trying to adjust the fuelmixture
turning the mixture screw on cyl 1 and 4 a little out to get richer and cyl 2 and 4 a little in to get them leaner.
So far the plugs looks better and the bike also feels better.
After i run the bike a little higher in rpm It started to get a little ticking noise again so i adjusted the exhaust valves a little tighter and the noise is gone.I have a theory that since the exhaust camlobes on cylinder 1 was worn over limit when i measured them in the winter
the valves on cyl one has to be adjusted a little tighter to not tick.I'm going to replace the exhaustcam i think.
I found out that its possible to remove and install the valvecover and gasket without removing the choke and gas cable.
The bike has now rolled almost 800 kilometers and I'm going to replace the oilfilter and oil

[Old Rider]

Today i have changed the oil and oilfilter .The magnet on drainplug had a layer of metal particles not sure if it is a normal amount.
I could see metalparticles in the oil when draining from the little drainhole in oilfilter casing.The oilfilter was also more black than normal.
Then when i had finished the oilchange and was going to take a long ride i discovered that she thanks me by leaking oil from right side  front valvecover the gasket has splitted and bulging out.So the oil is
dripping right on my header  

here is a vid of the metalparticles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7zjaqplhis

[Old Rider]

If anyone planning to rebuild the engine and wonder what has ben replaced in the engine here is a list:I had made a list with all the partnumbers but cant find it.
And let me add that if i can rebuild a engine  everyone can do it and its really fun if you like wrenching like me.
Most parts was bought from RPM thanks for great service !

Carburettor allenhead screw and oringsets RPM sell this great sets
1 Engine gasket set
16 valvestem seals
some of the valves that was to pitted to just lap
some shims
4 cylinder sleves
4 exhaust gaskets
4 pistons almost like new from ebay
4 set of pistonrings
2 copper washers for left side cyl head
connection rod bolts and nuts
connecting rod bearings
wristpin circlips 8
front - rear and top camchain guides
camchain
camchain tensioner (last summer )
crankshaft bearings
oilseals bithe sides on crankshaft in the crankcase
starterchain
starterclutch springs and steelballs
starter clutch rubber cushions
starterclutch seals
starterclutch rollerbearing
starterclutch oil jet nozzle short type xjr1300
Complete transmission changed for a almost unused one from ebay from the same engine as i bought the pistons
Longer and stronger shiftforks from the ebay transmission
Shift shaft from ebay transmission
clutch pushrod also from the ebay trasnmission.
seal transmission output shaft
Roller detent shift lever kit (recomended the shifting feels better now)
oil pump and gear and little snapring
oil pickup screen
oilseals crankcase shiftshaft
3 o rings oilpump
orange o ring center of cases
o ring neutral switch
o rings oilcooler
o ring starter motor
o ring and seal generator
o rings for the 2 oilpressure relief valves.
Oil seal starter motor
1 cylinder head gasket
2 cylinder base gasket
valvecover gasket this was not genuine and has now started to leak
some dowelpins cylinder headwas replaced
2 green o rings cylinder head
sparkplugs
airfilter
oilfilter and new o ring and little copper washer for drainscrew
crankcase breather hose
all bearings and collar clutch
all fiber and steelplates plates in the clutch
clutchbasket
clutch hub lock washer
2 shift shaft seals in front sprocket cover
seal clutch pushrod

work that has been done:
carburetors replaced all o rings and small screws plus cleaned.
I cut the valveseats with a neway valveseat cutter
lapped and adjusted valves
installed new cylindeersleeves and then sent the cylinder to a machineshop for boring -honing then milled the surface.
sanded cylinder head surface
everything checked and measured as the workshop manual instructs.
assembly of the engine.

[T Legg]

How much do you think you spent?It looks like I may have to tear down my engine to fix it although since I still have good compression I hope I don't need to replace the cylinder sleeves or pistons.

[Old Rider]

How much do you think you spent?It looks like I may have to tear down my engine to fix it although since I still have good compression I hope I don't need to replace the cylinder sleeves or pistons.

I have not dared to see how much i spent yet   .it would be cheeper to buy a god condition used engine but i like wrenching and wanted to find out what was making bad noises so i decided to rebuild the engine.
If you have good compression and not burning oil you can try to split the engine without removing the pistons out of the cylinderbores.because once you have taken the pistons out you MUST  buy new rings and hone the cylinders or else you get a oilburner  .Im not 100% sure about this but thats what i heard

[T Legg]

I added up all the receipts from motorcycle parts I have bought in the last two and a half years on my two fj's and my cb-750 .clutch  parts carburetor parts tires brake and clutch master cylinder repair kits missing pieces like the headlight adjusters inside panels of the air scoops gauge sets and lots of cables.It all adds up to $ 5,800.00 US.I was surprised how much I have spent but I dont regret it. If I take my engine apart I definetly want to replace the rings and hone it.

[Old Rider]

Here are some more update on how its going with my FJ.
Have now replaced the exhaust camshaft .I did it because i had to much ticking noise coming from NR 1 cylinder
exhaust valves.I located the noise with a cheep electronic stethoscope.First i adjusted the valves tighter
that the spec in the manual and that did quiet the valves ,but driving with tight valves is not good so i decided
that i try to replace the exhaust camshaft.
when i rebuilt the engine last winter and measured the camshafts i found that the 2 lobes on exhaust cam cylinder 1
was worn a little over the limit in the manual.I also replaced the shimbuckets on cyl 1 exhaust because they looked
brown and worn.
It is possible to replace the camshaft without the hassle with pulling out the carbs and camchaintensioner.I did that
by using ziptie
on the intakecam sprocket so the camchain can not slip also a piece of wood on the backside of the sprocket.,and a
wire that tightening up the camchain on exhaust side .Before this i checked that the the timingmarks
on pickupcoil and the dots in the camchain was ok ,then used wire on the pickupcoil so the crank was locked and can
not rotate.
Then marked the camsprocket and chain on the old exhaustcam with paint to get it back on at the same place and get
the timing right.Then i removed the old exhaustcam and then the marked sprocket and placed the old  camsprocket on
the new exhaustcam .