Splitting the cases

[Pat Conlon]

....but wait there's more....Plus the beam style works both ways, for loosening and for tightening.
I check my head nuts to see if they are still holding torque at 25 ftlbs, with a beam style I can see at what value the nuts break loose.....can't do that with a clicker.

Sometimes old school is best....

[ZOA NOM]

Again... it's the stretch, not the method or tool.

[racerrad8]

Again... it's the stretch, not the method or tool.

What is the bolt stretch measurement?

That is not a number provided by Yamaha that I am aware of.

If not supplied by Yamaha,  where does one go about finding the fluted rod bolt stretch length?

Inquiring minds need to know.

Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

Make sure the new retainer screws you use are tapered like the originals. I have seen where people have used a regular Allen bolt and the thinner material of the tapered retainer breaks and allows the entire shift barrel to move, ruining the shift forks, shift barrel, and gears. We have the proper screws in stock in torx I believe. I will have to check Monday.

I guess i have to buy another wrench with higher qality.

Don't guess, that is what you are doing now.

Get a new torque wrench and we prefer beam style wrenches. There are no mechanical parts to bind, no springs to loose tension and there is no future service required other than to replace it after 100,000 cycles.\

Thanks for the advise i used the orginal retainer screws that came with the transmission i bought on ebay.

[ZOA NOM]

Again... it's the stretch, not the method or tool.

What is the bolt stretch measurement?

That is not a number provided by Yamaha that I am aware of.

If not supplied by Yamaha,  where does one go about finding the fluted rod bolt stretch length?

Inquiring minds need to know.

Randy - RPM

I wouldn't expect Yamaha to manufacture their own rod bolts. Whoever makes them should provide a sheet that indicates the stretch value required. It may very well be that Yamaha simply translates that to a torque value to make it easier and faster for dealers, shops, etc., most of whom would be expected to have an acceptably accurate torque wrench. In any event, if you have the means to measure the bolt and the value required, the wrench used is unimportant.

It might be interesting to measure the stretch across several rod bolts using the torque method. You will likely find a significant difference in the stretch on individual bolts. I know I found significant (more than a couple thou) across 12 ARP racing rod bolts between the torque wrench method and the box wrench/micrometer method. In the end, I trusted the micrometer more than the torque wrench. The sequence I used with the box wrench was to tighten in a single smooth motion up to a specific angle that put me under but near the final value. Then a final stretch for the last couple thou after verifying the value.

If I didn't have the stretch value available, I might measure the stretch on the first bolt using the torque wrench, and then use the stretch measurement value to match the rest.

Again, rod bolts are designed to be stretched, it might be helpful to know how much.

Where the hell is Noel?  

[Old Rider]

Today i started to install the transmission and new little used shiftforks .It did not go as smooth as i tought
because first i had to remove the drive sprocket.The  workshopmanual instructs that the oilseal have to be istalled before the enginecases is put together so then i had to take off the drivesprocket. The nut was really stuck so
i had to put the cases together and use some of the enginebolts to keep things in place.I used a thick steelwire
to lock the sprocket when trying to loose the nut.First try i used a single wire and it snapped like sewing tread
next try i used double wire and superheated the nut then it came loose.
When i had removed the sprocket i saw that the oilseal probably can be installed after engine cases are bolted
together can this be confirmed?
Another thing i discovered was that when i was going to join the cases the little tab in the transmission bearings
did not fit because there was no hole in the case .I think that someone has used a lower enginecase from a fj1100
.A did a check on the old trasmission that was installed in bike and the tap was removed from the bearing so i
removed the tab on the trans im installing.
I was going to do more today but have to wait to tomorrow.

[racerrad8]

Today i started to install the transmission and new little used shiftforks .It did not go as smooth as i tought
because first i had to remove the drive sprocket.The  workshopmanual instructs that the oilseal have to be istalled before the enginecases is put together so then i had to take off the drivesprocket. The nut was really stuck so
i had to put the cases together and use some of the enginebolts to keep things in place.I used a thick steelwire
to lock the sprocket when trying to loose the nut.First try i used a single wire and it snapped like sewing tread
next try i used double wire and superheated the nut then it came loose.
When i had removed the sprocket i saw that the oilseal probably can be installed after engine cases are bolted
together can this be confirmed?
Another thing i discovered was that when i was going to join the cases the little tab in the transmission bearings
did not fit because there was no hole in the case .I think that someone has used a lower enginecase from a fj1100
.A did a check on the old trasmission that was installed in bike and the tap was removed from the bearing so i
removed the tab on the trans im installing.
I was going to do more today but have to wait to tomorrow.

Trans Seal: There is the raised lip on the outer surface of the seal that shears off when installing with the case assembled. Better to install prior to putting the case halves together.

Trans Dowel: The dowel pin needs to be put back in that bearing. There is not a hole, but there is a notch in the lower case, to the rear of the bearing bore where that dowel pin is indexed.

I see you have the half circle bearing cir-clip in both case halves. You only need and should use one of them.

What did you do about the rod bolts?

Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

Today i started to install the transmission and new little used shiftforks .It did not go as smooth as i tought
because first i had to remove the drive sprocket.The  workshopmanual instructs that the oilseal have to be istalled before the enginecases is put together so then i had to take off the drivesprocket. The nut was really stuck so
i had to put the cases together and use some of the enginebolts to keep things in place.I used a thick steelwire
to lock the sprocket when trying to loose the nut.First try i used a single wire and it snapped like sewing tread
next try i used double wire and superheated the nut then it came loose.
When i had removed the sprocket i saw that the oilseal probably can be installed after engine cases are bolted
together can this be confirmed?
Another thing i discovered was that when i was going to join the cases the little tab in the transmission bearings
did not fit because there was no hole in the case .I think that someone has used a lower enginecase from a fj1100
.A did a check on the old trasmission that was installed in bike and the tap was removed from the bearing so i
removed the tab on the trans im installing.
I was going to do more today but have to wait to tomorrow.

Trans Seal: There is the raised lip on the outer surface of the seal that shears off when installing with the case assembled. Better to install prior to putting the case halves together.

Trans Dowel: The dowel pin needs to be put back in that bearing. There is not a hole, but there is a notch in the lower case, to the rear of the bearing bore where that dowel pin is indexed.

I see you have the half circle bearing cir-clip in both case halves. You only need and should use one of them.

What did you do about the rod bolts?

Randy - RPM

Thanks Randy for correcting i did go down my cellar and checked if there was a notch and it was  ! its strange that i missed that because it also mentioned in the manual i have!. I guess when
i inspected the transmission that was installed in bike and the dowel was removed i tought it had to be removed .So tghe last one working on the engine did same mistake as i and removed the dowel.
I will install the seal before joining the cases.
Its good to know there are experts watching!
The rodbolts : i have installed 8 brand new bolts and nuts and lubed them with moly disulfid grease and tourqued them to 36NM all went well exept one bolt that i had trouble with and probably stretched to much so i have bought  one more new bolt that i get this week

[Urban_Legend]

You really need to make sure the Trans dowell is in the correct position.
This is what it look like when it is not. This was from a previous owner of my bike.

Mark

[Old Rider]

 

You really need to make sure the Trans dowell is in the correct position.
This is what it look like when it is not. This was from a previous owner of my bike.

Mark

Hi Mark and thanks  yes i remeber you told me that in the first post of this tread so i was careful about about getting that right but even then i managed to not see the notch in the case where it sits . The dowel on the trans outputshaft bearing is different there is  not a hole in the case for it like on the other bearingpin dowels it is a notch in the seemline betwen the cases.
First i did not se any hole for it like there is  on the other bearings. so i guessed i had to remove it because it was removed on the old trasmission tha sat in bike.

And again thank for the tip of using 2 cardboards with drawing of the enginecases to put the enginescrews  in the right plases with torquespecs written down it is very smart and timesaving  

[Old Rider]

Today i was going to do some more assembly but then suddenly the guy i machineshop called and sayd the cylinders are finished bored honed and decked!! I jumped in the car and drove to  the shop.
The price on the work for boring honing and decking was 651 USD .
When i  got home i measured everything with dial bore gauge and micrometer and all cylinders now have a
piston to cylwall clearance of 0.06mm to 0.08mm and they are straight and round.
When i delivered the cylinders I told him to make the clearance from 0.03mm to 0.05mm  so they got a little bigger but i guess he know what he is doing and everything is fine.
The honemarks looks much finer grit than the one i made when i honed the old cylinders.
He hasent camfered the top edge but i dont think that is doing anything since i will install pistons from the underside of cylinders.
Now they have to be cleaned with hot soapy water .

Another thing... the piece in the red square on the pick from manual i dont understand where it suposed to fit ??

[racerrad8]

The cylinders look great and your right, much different than the hone you were using.

Like you said, no need to chamfer the top of the bore, the rings go in from the bottom.

Look at the photo of you hold the trans seal. No look at the boss just above the lower motor mount. There is a bolt hole and two straight raised bosses. The wires for the neutral light and low oil sensor pass between the two raised bosses and the clip goes over the top to hold them in.

Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

In my last post when reply to Urban legend Mark i have by a mistake clicked a ireful emoji i dont know how it got there and im not ireful at all so sorry Mark

Randy thanks for explaining about the mystery piece


Rolf

[Pat Conlon]

I fixed it Rolf...

[Old Rider]

I fixed it Rolf...

Thank you Pat