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Splitting the cases

Started by Old Rider, September 18, 2018, 06:53:31 AM

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racerrad8

I wish I would have notice sooner, but you need to get the left motor mount out of the engine. It is supposed to be free floating in the case and not seized. Since it is still in the case, I presume it is seized.

It would have been really easy to remove it when the cases were separated and it could have been put into a press.

At least you could put some heat to it before you install the based gasket and cylinder to try and get it out. Just be very careful, the casting is easily breakable if trying to remove it with a hammer.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

FJ_Hooligan

Just what is the intent or purpose of the orings at the base of the cylinders?

Seems to me they would just fall off into the motor.
DavidR.

racerrad8

Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 06, 2019, 06:31:34 PM
Just what is the intent or purpose of the orings at the base of the cylinders?

Seems to me they would just fall off into the motor.

Yes, that is what happens...

I can only presume they were to prevent oil from creeping up between the cylinder block and the sleeves and causing a leak.

I have never had a leak like that before...

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Old Rider

Thanks for the helpfull advices  i come back to that later because im in a hurry now and need a answer  and question is:
i have now installed the metalgasket  and cylinders it is not bolted down so the metalgasket is not crushed yet and it now measure 0.45mm. it is 0.25 when installed/crushed.
I have the measured the piston to cylinderdeck and it is 0.12mm down to piston from top of cylinder. When i calculate that the basegasket is crushed the measuremet will be that the piston will stick above the cylinderdeck 0.08mm . Is that okay or do i need one more gasket ??

racerrad8

Quote from: racerrad8 on April 06, 2019, 04:22:31 PM
My recommendation, pull the piston rings. Put it together without any base gasket in place. Measure the distance the piston is recessed into the cylinder at TDC. Once you have that measurement, you can determine if you need a single or a stack of gaskets. If it is not recessed (highly unlikely) then the amount it is protruding from the cylinder will determine how many base gaskets will be needed.

Stop guessing, especially if you do not have a compressed gasket steel base gasket.

Follow the process outlined above to know what you'll need in reference to base gasket thickness.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

racerrad8

Quote from: Old Rider on April 02, 2019, 10:59:08 AM
I reused 4 wristpinclips that only has been mounted on the old pistons and not used i hope that is okay =)

I just noticed this comment,  I must have missed it earlier.

I would not recommend or do this.

Sometimes you have to do what you have to do, but  to this point you have been very particular during your build.  This seems quite the opposite...

Randy  - RPM
Randy - RPM

Old Rider

Randy thanks for guiding .I have now just came back from engine in my cellar and i think i need  another basegasket because when trying to calculate the piston to cyldeck i found that piston will be 0.08mm abowe the deck. I dont know if that is normal or if the piston have to be flush or below cylinderdeck.
I know you told me to check without rings and basegasket but then i already started installing the cylinders and metalbasegasket. I was hoping that the pistons was lower in the cylinders and i could just put on the
head and camchafts. Now when i found that the pistons will be about 0.08mm higher than the cylinderdeck im not sure if that is going to work.I  Think i buy another steelbase gasket .

Yes i measured the cylinder before the machinechop got them and the measurement was : left side front 88.32mm and after decked it was 88.25 mm  right side front was 88.35mm and after 88.27mm
left side back was 88.32mm and after 88.28mm     right side back was 88.33 and after 88.29mm i looks like it was shaved about 0.08mm .

today i replaced the wristpin circlips with new ones,but now i have to order new again when i take off the cylinders and reinstall next time  :smile:

racerrad8

Quote from: Old Rider on April 07, 2019, 09:16:28 AM
Randy thanks for guiding .I have now just came back from engine in my cellar and i think i need  another basegasket because when trying to calculate the piston to cyldeck i found that piston will be 0.08mm abowe the deck. I dont know if that is normal or if the piston have to be flush or below cylinderdeck.
I know you told me to check without rings and basegasket but then i already started installing the cylinders and metalbasegasket. I was hoping that the pistons was lower in the cylinders and i could just put on the
head and camchafts. Now when i found that the pistons will be about 0.08mm higher than the cylinderdeck im not sure if that is going to work.I  Think i buy another steelbase gasket .

I am confused, that is .08mm(0.003") above the deck surface with a base gasket or without?

The piston needs to be below the deck or it will contact the head.

By looking at you cylinder thicknesses they cut .020" off the cylinder.

So, without the base gasket installed, you need to know how much the piston is protruding out of the cylinder bank. Once you have that we can sort out what base gasket thickness is required.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Old Rider

Yes i calculated that the piston will protrude .08mm above the cylinderdeck when one metal base gasket is used.
I have measured the old basegasket that was installed and it is 0.50mm compressed. The metalgasket i measured is 0.25mm .So im going to buy another metalgasket and stack them so i get 0.50mm.Then the machineshop have cut off .08 mm on the cylinder  so now the pistons  will be only .08 mm higher in the bores than before engine teardown .But still below the deck.
I will double check later .

Old Rider

since i dont get the metal basegasket before thursday or friday i have done some other fixings on the bike.
Replaced the petcock O-ring and the fuelsender unit gasket in tank.The fuelsender unit gasket i knew was a little torn from when i used the tanksealer kit 2 years ago.
Today when i was out hunting for a rtv that tolerate gasoline well i then found some hoseclamps that looks almost
similar like triumph pistoncompressors. They was real sheap so i bought 4 .When testing them they worked very well
so i think i use them when installing the cylinderbarell next time.
I was going to order new cylinderhead nuts because they was rusty and ugly but they  cost 155 usd at yamaha
so instead i tested to put then in a bottle of etch i had left from the tanksealer project 2 years ago.
It worked good and they dont look so bad now.
The tanksealer has worked very good and there is no more rust in the fuelfilter.I does not flake off there was no
flakes in the tank .

RPM - Robert

155 USD!? It seems like you keep going to the wrong place to buy your parts.

Cylinder Head Nut 35 USD for a set of 12 here.

ZOA NOM

You gotta pay for the reindeer to deliver em...
Rick

Current:
2010 Honda VFR1200 DCT (Full Auto!)
1993 FJ/GSXR 1200 (-ABS)
1987 Porsche 911 Carrera (Race)
1988 Porsche Carrera (Street)
Previous:
1993 FJ1200 (FIREBALL)
1993 FJ1200ABS (RIP my collar bone)
1986 FZ750
1984 FJ600
1982 Seca

Old Rider

Quote from: RPM - Robert on April 10, 2019, 01:08:31 PM
155 USD!? It seems like you keep going to the wrong place to buy your parts.

Cylinder Head Nut 35 USD for a set of 12 here.
yes i know and i almost ordered them from you about a month ago but the shipping on those os high because of the weight.I still would have been sheeper but now since im unpatient getting the bike
on the road i reuse the one i got .I bought one from you on an earlier order tough :yes:

RPM - Robert

Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 10, 2019, 01:12:22 PM
You gotta pay for the reindeer to deliver em...

Right around 35 USD for the reindeer to deliver a set of these; means a savings of 85 USD. Not too bad. Although it would be a week or two wait time.

Old Rider

On the order i got from you at 1000 usd i checked at yamaha here what the price would be on those parts and it was almost 3 times doubled price!! :shok: