Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

Well done Rolf!!  
It is a wonderful feeling. You must be very satisfied.

You probably already know, but re-torque will be necessary shortly. It is also a good time to check every nut and screw is tight when you're doing the RE torque.

I'm sure you've already done it but, balance the carbies, and get the mixture right.

I really like idea for the holes in the back of the airbox. One of my 11's has an airbox that is easy, and one is a real bugger like yours.

With the attention to detail, and real care you've put in, this bike should be good for another 30 years!

The timing looks like you can do the advance trick, and as you've already pulled the clutch, did you do the basic clutch mod and remove the wire retainer?

Yes i know that it has to be re torqued, but not sure how long to wait before that i also have to get a better torque wrench. When i torqued it felt like i used way to much pressure and one if the bolts
made a cracking sound and then it felt spongy and rotated mayby 2 millimeters backward when i released pressure .
I have not balanced the carbs yet i have to make or buy a sync tool.
The holes in the airbox i temporary used ductape on im going to use a styrene sheet and tape that . First i was thinking to just cut of a big piece and make it hinged so it is even more easy to fit
the rubbers.
The cutch was rebuild last Autumn as a part of gettin the bad noises go away  i replace all steel friction and fiberplated i refitted the steelwire. i have also replaced the clutch bearings and the little steelball and the clutch pushrod.and a new little used clutchbasket.

[Old Rider]

Your engine sounds great.You are the definition of perseverance.

Thanks its been a journey lots of small irritating moment but also very fun and in the end a good feeling. Now I'm trying to figure  out what method to brake in the engine.Some say full throttle some say
easy i think i go for the brake in in procedure in Haynes manual .
i have now been on a 8 km trip and the shifts feel great and no more bad noises so far ,but i started hearing valve ticking but i guess that is because some exhaustvalves is at the loose side

[Troyskie]

G'day Rolf,

Here are the clutch and timing mod links.

I hope you've kept the old clutch bits.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0

[Troyskie]

I followed the Haynes method, but I think 500km is probably enough.

Re torque 'as necessary' which to me is 50km or oil leak.

Anyone else want to chip in?

[Old Rider]

G'day Rolf,

Here are the clutch and timing mod links.

I hope you've kept the old clutch bits.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1808.0

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=4292.0

Hi Troy
I thanks for reminding me of the clutch and timing advance mods.I know of them and have decided not to to the mods right now .I havent had much clutchslip on my yamaha i think mayby it is because i only use yamalube oil.I know that with syntethic oil the clutch fibers can get to slippery.I wait and se to the engine is breaked in if i get slips i do the clutch mod mayby i try to fit another
clutchspring first.

[Old Rider]

I have now driven 4 or 5  small trips. And total 50 kilometers today the trip was 15 kilometers and the engine is starting to have valve noise i stopped at a parkinglot and noticed the engine is really hot
it also came a little smoke out from the sidecover opening on left side. I did a thoroughly check for oil leaks with white paper and did not find any.I think the little smoke is coming from a Little leak from one of the valvecover bolts that i did not manage to check  becaus i had no tools with me.It is funny i almost always carry some basic tools in my backpack when i ride the fj but today when doing testrides after a rebuild i have no tools with me  .The engine was really hot and i waited about one hour and half before it had cooled down.I first tough that the oilpump was not working because when i felt on the oilcooler it was much cooler than the rest of the engine but  that was after mayby half an hour .I then rode back home and when i got home the engine was cooler than the the first trip and did not smoke. I also checked the oilcooler and now it was hot to touch  so then i know that the oilpump is working. I guess its normal that engine gets  hot when breaking it in.
I dont like the valve ticking noise but i guess and hope its just because i adjusted the exhaust valves on the lose side.

[Old Rider]

When looking at the pick of my bike i remeber a funny story from last summer.I was on the same parkinglot doing some work on my car when i heard police sirens then a black yama r1 came fast driving over the parkinglot and into that little
mud track you see in the back of the bike.The track just go into the woods .The coops never showed up so i guess he was lucky it took a long time before he came out from the woods  
There is a intersection longer down the road that the cops did not turn into right direction

[fj1289]

...
I dont like the valve ticking noise but i guess and hope its just because i adjusted the exhaust valves on the lose side.

It's the really quiet valves you really won't like hearing!  Too much clearance is much much better than too little!

[Old Rider]

Here is a  update what happened since i put the engine back in the bike and during the brake in of the engine.
The ticking sound started to get worse and not more quiet as i was hoping It got so bad that i was wondering if i could drive home.so tryed to  adjust the valves fore a second
time.
First i did a compression test and all cylinders was  around 11.5 BAR  then adjusted the valves  to the tighter side of spec 0.16 to 0.17 on exhaust and 0.10 to 0.13 on inntakevalves.
I then did some riding but the sound was still there. It was a little more quiet but not good.I then suspected that
one of the shimbuckets is worn out  and slapping around because i remember one of them was colored dark blue and yellow when i assembly
the engine.
Then thinking that mayby if i torque the cylinderhead nuts to spec 35NM it will help because When i assembly the engine
i did not take the chance to break a cylinderhead stud  they are 33 year old   or strip its treads by torquing to hard.Therefore I torqued
the nuts to 28Nm instead of 35NM that time.Also my tourquewrench is not reliable and i felt that when torquing to
28NM i used much more force than needed before the wrench clicked.
the bolts also made cracking sounds !.
So i decided to give it a try anyway and torque to 35NM.I loosened one bolt at time  a quarter turn and re torqued to 35NM
it felt as they was going to snap off but they didn't.When i test rode the bike afterwards the ticking noise was totally
gone and  after that i have been riding about 200 kilometers and the bike is quiet and runs very well.
My theory is that the ticking sound was because the headgasket was not enough compressed after first tourque 28NM.
Yesterday i had a little shock when suddenly the engine made a noise that sounded like 2 psychotic witches screaming
and howling   i pulled to the side of the road and stopped engine fast.I tough about it for a while and then
remembered that i have heard similar sound before a couple of years ago and that i then suspected  the speedometer .Last time it happened it was
cold outside and yesterday it was only 3 degree Celsius.I then rode the bike some more and the engine sounded great.
Today it is cold only 1 degree Celsius and i tok the bike for a ride hoping to get confirmed that the sound is
speedometer and not a bearing going to hell.So after some riding the sound came back i describe it as the sound of screaming witches of death=)
i then pulled clutch  fast and shut off engine and with engine off  i was traveling about 80 km/h the howling sound was still there so then i was
happy that it wasn't the engine.
I have now driven 600 KM and in 400 KM i going to change oil and filter.The engine now feels much more free and i think it
is almost finished braked in it is also cooler to the touch after a ride.I have only reved it to 7000 rpm so far .

[Old Rider]

Im now working on how to get cyl 2 and 3 running leaner

[balky1]

I am far from being an expert, but that number 3 looks the best to me with that slight tan. Although, there is also the vacuum advance...

[Troyskie]

I am far from being an expert, but that number 3 looks the best to me with that slight tan. Although, there is also the vacuum advance...

Yep, same for me.

[Old Rider]

the pick of plug 3 is not so good here is another pic of plug 3 i think that the fist pick is some days eariler also smell fuel from plug

[balky1]

Yep, rich. But there is other thing to consider. Richer mixture leads to colder engine. Since it is an air cooled engine, maybe it is better to have them that way than to be clean like other two.
Like I said earlier, they may be also clean because of the vacuum advance from CDI (but the question remains why the other two are so much darker). If it is working on your bike, I think you can't get a proper conclusion from reading spark plugs that way. Pat, Randy, Robert, Noel and Monkey are the people here that might give you better answers than me.

[Old Rider]

Yep, rich. But there is other thing to consider. Richer mixture leads to colder engine. Since it is an air cooled engine, maybe it is better to have them that way than to be clean like other two.
Like I said earlier, they may be also clean because of the vacuum advance from CDI (but the question remains why the other two are so much darker). If it is working on your bike, I think you can't get a proper conclusion from reading spark plugs that way. Pat, Randy, Robert, Noel and Monkey are the people here that might give you better answers than me.

i dont have the vacum advance .I think all plugs are bad 1 and 4 is to lean and 2 and 3 is to rich .It is a little early to be sure that 1 and 4 is to lean i have to drive a little more to See if they get a light brown tan. Its a little strange that the bike runs good .I have the dial a jet system and 2 of the  air mixture adjusting  things is damaged a little . that plus the poor condition of the airbox rubber boots makes things difficult to adjust. So far i have turned the mixture screw in 1 turn on carb 2 and 3.and out a half on 1 and 4 .But that mixture screw is only for idle speed ??
I'm searching for new boots  and think i will throw the dial a jet in the bin if i cant get the engine to run cleaner.I had bought used good condition boots from eBay but when i was going to install them
they did not fit it was for a newer bike than mine.Another thing is that mayby the floats on 2 and 3 is not in right height.