Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

I have now recieved the inntakevalves that needed replacement and lapped them .The valve stem seals is also installed .I bought a valvestemseal remowal and instalation tool on ebay
The quality was hongkong bad but the price was very sheep so better than nothing.The plier was useless impossible to remowe the old sels with it so i used a thick sharp wood stick
instead.I read in another tread here that it was difficult to install the seals from RPM that is why i bought the tool.The tool was working great to install the seals but it was very difficult to know if the seals was installed deep enough in right place and to seat them right.I read that you should feel that it smacks inplace but there was no feel of that at all.So i then used the backend of the digital caliper and measured inside the hole of the seal to see how far it was to the top of the valveguide to top of seal to get a clue.I know Randy sayd not to use hammer when installing but i used one very gently tapping on back of the sealinstaller to be sure it was in place.Also used little grease inside seal.Here are some pics

[Old Rider]

new uppdate: installed the springs and cottarpins on the last 3 valves.The cottarpins is very frustrating to get in
place i found at trick online to use a dab of grease innside cottarpins as a glue to hold them in place.It works
okay but it is still a pain to install them fiddling with toothpics and pliers .On the springs and innside the
spring sylinder i used assembly lube and some moly disulfate grease on the top .Used moly grease on the valvestems also.
Dont have a sprinforce measuretool and dont want to buy one so  i made a tool that i will seek patent on (just
kidding).It is a woodblock with a hole drilled ø-25mm  and 34.8mm deep .Then put it on a digital scale and put the
spring innside and compress the spring so its flush with the top of wood it is then compressed to 34.8mm  take the
reading on the scale.  the measurement is of cource not acurate but i think its close.The springs all had a
springforce close to or little over the spec from manual wich is 13,3 to 15.7 kg.The innerspring shall be compressed
to 32.8mm so i used a coin to make the hole shorter in dept.
Filled the combustion chambers with painters alkohol for a couple of hours to se if it was any leak.I did not have
compressed air this time to blow in the inntake and exhaustports to se after airbubbles but did blow with my mouth into the inntakerubbers i then got a nice black  ring around my mouth when looked in mirror afterwards  will test again with copressed air another day.

[ribbert]

.....Filled the combustion chambers with painters alkohol for a couple of hours to se if it was any leak.I did not have
compressed air this time to blow in the inntake and exhaustports to se after airbubbles but did blow with my mouth into the inntakerubbers....

Middle Aged Rider, you might find it easier to observe how well the valve is sealing by pouring the liquid into the port side and observe for any weeping around the seats from the combustion chamber side.
Also, you can just use petrol (gasoline)

Sounds like it's coming along well, I look forward to the day when you report the 'noise' is gone.

Noel

[Old Rider]

.....Filled the combustion chambers with painters alkohol for a couple of hours to se if it was any leak.I did not have
compressed air this time to blow in the inntake and exhaustports to se after airbubbles but did blow with my mouth into the inntakerubbers....

Middle Aged Rider, you might find it easier to observe how well the valve is sealing by pouring the liquid into the port side and observe for any weeping around the seats from the combustion chamber side.
Also, you can just use petrol (gasoline)

Sounds like it's coming along well, I look forward to the day when you report the 'noise' is gone.

Noel

i should change my nick when found out yesterday that im actually young in here when people told me they have pair of
socks that is older than me
im going to try what you sayd about pouring into the ports.
looking forward to the startup and first ride day i thing will be using a double set of earplugs to be sure the noise is gone.
Next on the list now is to use superfine grit wetsandpaper on the gasketarea to clean it up a bit but is that a bad
idea? and is it possible to make the surface too smooth?

[ryanschoebel]

ifound out yesterday that im actually young in here

Man, I'm 22. I'm still in diapers to a lot of the guys on here! You're doing just fine haha

[Millietant]

Personally I'd never use wet & dry of sandpaper on a gasket surface. I'd always be worrying about "grit" and about "over-sanding". Maybe I'm worrying about nothing ?

My tool of choice a hard plastic scraper (or a Stanley knife blade held almost flat) - and then a light final clean with a soft/fine scotchbrite pad.

[ribbert]

Next on the list now is to use superfine grit wetsandpaper on the gasketarea to clean it up a bit but is that a bad
idea? and is it possible to make the surface too smooth?

Hand sanding can only lead to a wavy, irregular surface. Leave it alone, just scrape all the surfaces as clean as you can get them. The gasket will absorb any remaining burrs, marks and fine grit. The main thing is that it's flat, hand rubbing the surface is counter productive to this pursuit.

The poor man's head shave is covering a sheet of thick glass (it's flat) with fine emery paper and working the head back and forth over it until you have uniform marking, I have done this on a warped BMW (car) head after an over heating / head gasket blowing episode a long way from anywhere. It worked.

You have the time and you seem to enjoy DIY procedures, have a go at it.

Flat is preferable to smooth.

Noel

[FJ_Hooligan]

Another thing i have not figured out is what material the exhaust valves are made of .They are not magnetic like the inntakevalves.I heard that if the valves are made of titanium they have a coating that can not be lapped.The manual sys to lap them so i guess they not titanium?

Non-magnetic means the exhaust valves are Stainless Steel.

[racerrad8]

Excellent work, detail and documentation. A couple of things I see and/or recommend.

1) Now that you have cut the seats, you need to make sure you check valve clearances. If the valve sinks or is lower into the seat too much, the valve stem becomes too long and you run out of shim adjustment. If that is the case, you might need to have the tips of the valves ground down. This is not something you can do on your bench grinder at home. A valve cutting machine had the correct stone and holds the valve square to ensure the tip of the valve is square to the stem.

With the head elevated from the bench surface to prevent the head of the vale from hitting the bench, install buckets & shims on one side only. Lube up the cam journals and install one cam only. From them rotate the cam around and check your clearances. Depending on what you measure, you might have to calculate having the valves "tipped".

Never install both cams at the same time as you will end up with bent valves. Also ensure the head is elevated enough that the valves can't contact the bench, that will also bend the spindly 5.5mm valve stems.

2) That oil pump is junk, time for a new one.

3) Be careful of using the paper like you are or even shop rags for that matter. The lint left behind will get into the oil stream and be collected by  the pick-up screen causing a restriction. When building my engines I only use lint free paper towels and an air gun. I have total gone away from cloth towels due to the lint left behind. https://goodson.com/products/assembly-wipes-white?variant=16931842228335

4) On the spring check. I would be leery of the hole in the wood not being large enough. If the spring rubs on the side of the wood at all then you will not get a true rating of the spring. All spring checkers are two discs and nothing contacting the sides of them. You might try and bore a larger hole, then recheck or put some wax paper around the spring and see if your readings change.
https://youtu.be/3Hyw3fantpk?t=66

5) I see no issue with sanding the head with the correct tool. I have this aluminum sanding block that I use regularly to clean up the head surface when I do not have excessive warping. It is strictly for surface clean up, not any type of surfacing or repairs. this tool uses 1.5" emery cloth and I use 240 grit.

Keep up the good work, Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

Another thing i have not figured out is what material the exhaust valves are made of .They are not magnetic like the inntakevalves.I heard that if the valves are made of titanium they have a coating that can not be lapped.The manual sys to lap them so i guess they not titanium?

Non-magnetic means the exhaust valves are Stainless Steel.

okey that was good it wasent titanium.

Ribbert: why did you have mention the method of pouring gasoline into the ports i did today  used painters alcohol and i got 2 of the inntake valves leaking   not much but still leaking.
I also did the test with compressed air first and then they seemed tight.
I then dismantled and lapped them.. now after they are mounted again one still got a very minor leak so i be relap again tomorrow.
I used the pour into exhaustport method eariler before i used the valveseatcutter tool and then all was tight ..

[Old Rider]

hello Randy and thanks for alot of useful information its sure needed.I did not quite understand about the grinding of the valves is it at the top end of stem or the head of valve?
About the hole in wood springforcetool i guess you are right all the springs are now mounted so i not so keen on take every thing out again but i think at least i do some mayby i also take them to yamaha dealer and ask if they can check them.
I will try to benchshim i measured the cams earlier and find that many of the exhaustcam lobes was  a tiny bit under limit the  journals measured with plastigage was in spec but mayby i have to replace the exhaust cam

[racerrad8]

hello Randy and thanks for alot of useful information its sure needed.I did not quite understand about the grinding of the valves is it at the top end of stem or the head of valve?

I will try to bench shim i measured the cams earlier and find that many of the exhaust cam lobes was  a tiny bit under limit the  journals measured with plastigage was in spec but maybe i have to replace the exhaust cam

Top of the stem. As you cut the seats, you are dropping the valve deeper into the head/seat and the valve stem become effectively longer when compared to the cam lobe. The tip of the valve needs to be ground down to compensate for the valve head being farther into the seat.

As far as the cam journals, run what you have. For our race car applications, we actually bore the head out to increase the clearance to prevent camshaft breakage. Your wear is going to be be fine.

Randy - RPM

[FJ_Hooligan]

1) Now that you have cut the seats, you need to make sure you check valve clearances. If the valve sinks or is lower into the seat too much, the valve stem becomes too long and you run out of shim adjustment. If that is the case, you might need to have the tips of the valves ground down. This is not something you can do on your bench grinder at home. A valve cutting machine had the correct stone and holds the valve square to ensure the tip of the valve is square to the stem.

I had to do this exact thing when I installed SS valves many years ago.  Just as Randy described, I pre-checked my clearances and realized that Yamaha doesn't make shims small enough for the clearances I was measuring.  When I had my original head work done to fix several warped valve seats (a known problem for the first few years) they had to recut the seats just like you are doing.

I called the AFTERMARKET (Kibble-White?) valve manufacturer and they said it was okay to grind the stems shorter.  I made measurements on the valve length and installation location and made a detailed list of how much to remove on each valve.  I know a guy that builds race engines and I was able to use his VALVE GRINDING machine to perform the work.  

Everything worked out fine and I have what I would consider "normal" clearances.

A word of warning.  I don't know about the valve stems, but I was told to NEVER grind the valve face of a STOCK Yamaha valve (to clean up pitting) because they are surface hardened and any grinding would remove that hardened surface.  I originally had to replace about 4 valves because the warped seat had badly pitted some exhaust valves.

[Old Rider]

About the cams : i meant the lobes on the exhaust cam was worn a little under specs the measure from top of lobe the "A" measure in manual .When i measured the round the "B" measure the measures was in spec so can i then still use the cam? The runout is ok.
I have earlier mesured the jornals with plastigage and all was in spec.

[Old Rider]

About the valves: i have not cut the 45 degree angle on the valveseats only the top cut 30 degree so then i mayby dont have to grind the valvestem?
The one valve that was leaking i relapped and then mounted when testing afterward it did leak even more then i knocked on back of the stem with a plastic hammer and it stopped leaking
not sure what is wrong but mayby it did not seat fully when i realesed the springtensioner .