Splitting the cases

[Pat Conlon]

Im not sure if i going to separate the carbs to replace the o rings on the fuel transfer tubes and oveflow tubes.

It's been drummed into me that if your going to do a job, do it properly. You have all the parts there so why not replace everything, you've been very thorough with your work so far.  A local member over here stripped his carbs and found a split O ring on one of those tubes even though it wasn't leaking before.  Once done then you can say with confidence that your carbs will be trouble free.

Huh?

I am with Bonesy 1,000%
With all the fine work you are doing, all the effort, I can't get my head around why you would say this...

[Firehawk068]

Im not sure if i going to separate the carbs to replace the o rings on the fuel transfer tubes and oveflow tubes.

It's been drummed into me that if your going to do a job, do it properly. You have all the parts there so why not replace everything, you've been very thorough with your work so far.  A local member over here stripped his carbs and found a split O ring on one of those tubes even though it wasn't leaking before.  Once done then you can say with confidence that your carbs will be trouble free.

Huh?

I am with Bonesy 1,000%
With all the fine work you are doing, all the effort, I can't get my head around why you would say this...

+1
It's really easy to separate the carbs from each other.
Just take a picture of how the choke-rod brackets go on the rod (there is one that is different from the others if i remember correctly)
and take a picture of how the sync-screws/springs go together on the throttle brackets...............that's really the only thing you have to be concerned about.
You should already have the o-rings in the kit you got. 

[Old Rider]

Okayyyyy guys i hear you and thanks for convincing me to pull them apart i found some crud and dirt in the joints .But now i need help... on the picture i think the red arrow is pointing at the choke innlet air tube ,what i wonder is if it supposed to taken off and replace a o ring in there? It is totally stuck so i dont want to brake anything trying to get ot out.

[RPM - Robert]

No. That is pressed into the carb body.

[Old Rider]

No. That is pressed into the carb body.

Okay Then it was good i did not try to brake it free .I had 4 o rings left so i thought they mayby should go in there.

After you guys convinced me to separate the carbs and replace the orings i started today.
I was a little afraid i had to fight with all the screws heating drilling and using extractor tool like i had to
when working on the carbs last time.But i was lucky and every screw came out easy.
I'm glad this work was done because i did find some dirt in the joints between the carbs.Some of the O rings also was
hardened.
The choke plungers are worn very thin I'm thinking of a way to fix that without replacing them...Mayby drill a hole
and tap it and set a screw in there.
I recomend this screw and o ring kit from RPM !
I cant find any torque specs on the carb screws so i guess just take it on feeling.

[RPM - Robert]

Yes, you will have 4 extra. The fuel pump carbs have a tee in the middle and transfer tubes between 1-2 and 3-4 that the gravity fed sets don't have.

Now is the time to replace the plungers. You won't be able to do it until you split the carb rack again.

Choke Plunger

[Motofun]

I did the drill/tap technique on a set of choke plungers.  Be careful with alignment and it works great.

[Old Rider]

Today i was thinking that i had to do something about the worn chokeplungers .They cost 50 usd each i think that is
a little expensive so i desided that i will try to fix them instead .I looked in my old box with screws and did
find some brass screws that might work.The plan was to cut off the worn part and then drill a hole and tap it.And
then insert the screw. It worked out ok It was a little challenge to hold the plunger so they dont spin around with
pliers when drilling and tapping.The scews i made a little longer treaded section.
I used green loctite so they dont vibrate loose.

[Old Rider]

some days ago i called the machine shop and asked how its going with my cylinders .As expected it was not finished
and he had not gotten it back from the place he sendt it for boring to so he can hone it.He promised it will be ready next week
as he did last time.I has now been 4 weeks It starting to get spring here and i want to get the bike on road again (well if it ever starts  
i installed the connection rods again with new bolts and nuts.First i did a recheck of the crank to see
if i had messed up and bendt it while torquing the rodnuts when the crank was outside the engine earlier.
It had not been bendt and had  only 0.02 mm  runout .
i installed the cranchaft into lower case after cleaning and lubed the new bearingshells then i used ziptie on the
number 1 and 5 bearing to hold it in place while torque.i secured the lower case to a wood frame so it is easier to
aply the torque without the case spinning round .I lubed the bolts with moly sulfide grease and torqued in 2 stages first to 25Nm then to 36 NM
The new nuts had alot of white wax on them i was unsure what to do i cleaned the wax off and lubed with koly sulfid grease.

Everything went fine until the last bolt .The wrench did not click and i had to losen and retight it several times
to get the wrench to click. Then i looked at the stretch measurements i had measured all bolts before and after
torque to se if they stretched  same amount.  All bolts stretshed in the range of 0.35 to 0.44mm the last bolt got
longer and was at 0.60mm stretch .i then losened the bolt again and measured it it had now gotten longer it was
52.75mm and first time i measured it was 52.30mm .I then retorqed it with a increased torqe to 37 nm.Then i got it
stretched to 0.32mm wich is in the same range as the other bolts but Im not sure if i have to replace this bolt
because of the mishap.
Uppdate today i ordered 2new bolts so i can replace the bolt and get the torque 100% right.

[Old Rider]

Today i have installed Shiftshaft oilseal the orange oring in the center of engine  the RPM roller shift detent and a newer shiftdrum i bought on ebay in oktober. also a better shiftshaft than the one that is installed i the engine.
The shiftshaft seal was very easy to replace .The little orange o-ring in center of engine also was not the hardest thing to replace    it is Not orange any more the new part is black.
I  replaced the shift drum after  a fight with the 2 retainer screws.
The shiftdrum i bought on ebay from a bike that has very low milage. I have boght many other parts from the same bike the transmission the shiftshaft ,pistons .
I compared the shiftdrums and at first look my old looked okay but when i took it out of the engine and took some hi res pics its shows it is worn much more than the ebay drum se the pics.Also the rollerbearing was real noisy.
The RPM roller shift detent was easy to install ,but the spring is different than orginal see pics so i was unsure if i should replace the spring. I ended up with replacing the spring .The bolt i use blue loctite and 10NM touque
Im looking forward to see how if it is any better feel to shifting .Hoping it will give a more contant shift.

[RPM - Robert]

Everything went fine until the last bolt .The wrench did not click and i had to losen and retight it several times
to get the wrench to click.

Throw that torque wrench away. I don't think my dad has every stretched a rod bolt in over 25 years of building these engines using a good old fashioned beam style torque wrench.

As a matter of fact, you will not find a click style torque wrench in our shop.

Good call with the new spring being used on the RPM Roller Shift Detent Kit. The new spring is stiffer because there is less friction due to the ball bearing roller. This allows for more positive shifts and less chance of missing a gear.

It would have been a mistake to use the old spring.

[ZOA NOM]

Yup, good old beam style TR with a micrometer for measurements. Never lets you down.

[Old Rider]

I did have a torque wrench like that but that is 20 years ago and it was not a god qality one.I remeber using it when rebuliding a ford escort xr3i engine.
I have 3 torque wrenches now 1 is totally out of calibration the other 2 is ok i think one is from 5 to 25 nm and the other is from 25 to 210 nm.
if i set the torque to 25 nm they both click at the same place so i think it is okay.But not sure when the nm increase to 36nm it seems like the newest wrench mayby is a little off when increase the torque.One thing i notised is when increase the torque aplied on the rodbolts like when i did some tests is that then the wrench does not click it seems the bolt instead stretching and continue stretching at same torque to the bolt finally snaps off. also the wrench seems to not click if i dont hold it in totally horisontal level. I guess i have to buy another wrench with higher qality.

[ZOA NOM]

I actually used a 12mm box wrench for my rod bolts. The stretch is the key. You can see the results from your over-stretch that it is not advisable to re-use them. They fatigue with each stretch and I just don't trust them after one or two times. I stretched mine twice, once to measure clearances on the crank journals, and then the final amount during assembly. I was very meticulous about the accuracy of measurement. All of my bolts were stretched to within a half - thousandth of each other, and all within a thou of the manufacturer's spec.

[RPM - Robert]

Make sure the new retainer screws you use are tapered like the originals. I have seen where people have used a regular Allen bolt and the thinner material of the tapered retainer breaks and allows the entire shift barrel to move, ruining the shift forks, shift barrel, and gears. We have the proper screws in stock in torx I believe. I will have to check Monday.

I guess i have to buy another wrench with higher qality.

Don't guess, that is what you are doing now.

Get a new torque wrench and we prefer beam style wrenches. There are no mechanical parts to bind, no springs to loose tension and there is no future service required other than to replace it after 100,000 cycles.\