Splitting the cases

[racerrad8]

Huh? The bowl nipples get sealed.
The drain screw is removed and screw port becomes a hose barb connected to a drain hose.
The only drawback is if I need to check the fuel level. I'm not sure if the fuel level in the gauge will change if I draw the fuel from the hose barb instead of the lower nipple.

Randy, thanks for the update on the starter chain oil jet.
Good to hear the new XJR oil jet is backward compatible to our older FJ engines. Is it plug and play or is there any special machining involved to fit the new jet?

Cheers

We're getting a little off topic...

The replacement drain screw seals the factory drain on the bottom and let's the flow out through the hollow center.

The float level will be exactly the same regardless of which orifice the fuel flows from.

The replacement nozzle slips right in place of the original nozzle, no modifications required.

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

We're getting a little off topic...
The replacement nozzle slips right in place of the original nozzle, no modifications required.

Randy - RPM

Thanks again.... it's probably a good thing I asked the question huh?

Gives Rolf an option to upgrade and it educates the rest of us at the same time....

Why is that starter chain making that god awful noise?  Now we know.

[Old Rider]

Small update
Thank Randy for the information on the XJR nozzle jet .
I have now measured the cylinders and pistons many times with a new micrometer and bore dialgauge trying to get a overview of what i got.It took a while to get used to the bore dialgauge and the process of getting the measurements accurate. .I decided to try and hone just a little more to remove the ridge in cylinders  because the diameter of cylinders was  in spec the spec is 76.96 to 77.02 mm.Max limit is 77.10 mm. . The ridge  was very easy to remove it only required a little more honing.
The cylinders now are just on the limit when it comes to out of round and taper. I dont know if i can get away with only
new rings witch i already have bought and mounted on the old pistons as i planned to reuse or if i have to do a rebore and buy overzised  pistons and rings .The main problem now is the piston to cylinderwall clearances.it does not look good.The spec is 0.3 to 0.5mm and max limit is 0.10mm.When i measure the clearance i get
cyl 1   0.08mm  cyl 2 0.10mm cyl 3 0.10mm   cyl 4 0.13mm .
I measured the clearance by first measure the piston 2 mm up on the skirt with micrometer then set the bore dialgauge
in the micrometer and zeroing and then put it in the bore and read the clearance.
I found my pistons to be a little small in diameter they measure cyl 1 76.933  cyl 2 76.926  cyl 3 76.929
cyl 4 76.929 mm  the spec is 76.92mm to 76.98mm .  so I'm thinking that if i can get some larger pistons measuring in the upper range of spec 76.98 i would get the clearances into spec or at least inside max limit 0.10mm .

I now got some options
1 Buy oversized pistons and rings and do a re bore
2 Buy normal size pistons used or new that got bigger measurement at the pistonskirts
3 buy a bigbore kit with both cylinders and pistons
4 use the pistons i got  and live with the on limit piston clearance
How important is the piston clearance in a Fj engine?

[Old Rider]

I forgot another option that is piston coating to get better piston to wall clearances.

[FJ_Hooligan]

Swap the #1 and #4 pistons and remeasure.

[Old Rider]

Swap the #1 and #4 pistons and remeasure.

I could swap them then they all get in the max limitzone 0.10mm .Not sure how the engine wil perform with that clearance  and how much it has to say if the clearance is big.

[racerrad8]

The a few things you will experience with the measurements you have obtained and should be part of your decision.

1) The bore will only get larger with wear and you are at the max limit now.
2) If you have the larger piston clearance, the piston has more ability to "rock" within the bore. This causes excessive ring wear as they are not held square to the cylinder.
3) The ring end gap is only going to grow bigger with the max measurements you have. This will result in two things, loss of compression gasses and difficulty with oil control.
4) If you continued honing with the 280 grit stones to the current size, you still need to finish hone with finer stones. The top ring has a chrome face and can be flaked off if the finish is too course.

You might have couple of other options if you can find a machine shop that still does it and the cost is not too great.

You could have the pistons knurled: https://youtu.be/4uzZYPIGbZE  Then you could fit the bore to the knurled piston size.

If that works out, you could probably use a set of Yamaha FJ1200 .50mm (.020) Oversize Piston Rings to correct the end gap issue.

I guess you have to evaluate what you want out of this rebuild...

Are you going to be happy if the engine uses oil & smokes or is down on power due with excessive blow-by due to compression leakage?

Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

The a few things you will experience with the measurements you have obtained and should be part of your decision.

1) The bore will only get larger with wear and you are at the max limit now.
2) If you have the larger piston clearance, the piston has more ability to "rock" within the bore. This causes excessive ring wear as they are not held square to the cylinder.
3) The ring end gap is only going to grow bigger with the max measurements you have. This will result in two things, loss of compression gasses and difficulty with oil control.
4) If you continued honing with the 280 grit stones to the current size, you still need to finish hone with finer stones. The top ring has a chrome face and can be flaked off if the finish is too course.

You might have couple of other options if you can find a machine shop that still does it and the cost is not too great.

You could have the pistons knurled: https://youtu.be/4uzZYPIGbZE  Then you could fit the bore to the knurled piston size.

If that works out, you could probably use a set of Yamaha FJ1200 .50mm (.020) Oversize Piston Rings to correct the end gap issue.

I guess you have to evaluate what you want out of this rebuild...

Are you going to be happy if the engine uses oil & smokes or is down on power due with excessive blow-by due to compression leakage?

Randy - RPM

since i read your post and you mentioned the pistonring endgap i  remeasured again i found that the total cylinder
wear is mayby not  so bad as i first tought.I dismantled the new rings i had on the pistons put them in the
cylinders and checked the endgap. All endgap is inside spec measuring 0.30 to 0.35mm only one ring on cyl 4
was a little over standard size 0.38mm .spec endgap for both first and second ring is 0.20 to 0.30mm max limit is
0.60mm .The old rings was way out measuring from 0.70 to 1.30mm
It does not help that The micrometer i bought seems not to be  accurate i can turn the nimble 2 dots and nothing
happens with the tension on the 75mm calibration stick that it came with so mayby my measuremnte is not so good.
I think that the pistons is worn small in diametre compared to brand new one plus i used that MR muscle on them and
they got black .I then used some fine grit wetsandpaper to get the black stuff off that also did the diametre a little
smaller.I think if i buy new pistons the clearance will be much better.

That knurled piston was strange  doesent that make the piston work almost like a file on the cylinderwall?
.I have  done some more measurement on the piston to cylinderwall clearance with the oldschool feelerblade method that is explained in the haynes manual
It shows that the clearances measured that way is a little smaller, but i dont think that is so accurate as a micrometer with a boredialguide.  
For example on cylinder 4 who had the greatest clearing 0.13mm  i could bearly fit the 0.10mm blade in and it was thight to drag out.
The other cylinders also got a little better measurement with the feelerblade method.
I would not like if the engine use oil and smoke and down on power   i now have to think about the options

[Old Rider]

Now i im thinking of replacing the cylindersleeves, but not sure if the sleeves i have found can be used .I mean if they just slide right in without doing any machine work to the cylinder to make them fit.Her are a pick of the
sleeves and some data.
REPLACEMENT CYLINDER SLEEVE  ( 4 Pcs )
Brand: LA sleeves 
Name LA sleeves YA-984
77mm 4-Cyl
FJ-1100 4-Valve 1984-1985
FJ-1200 4-Valve 1986-1993
B =Outside Diameter C = Flange (Lip) Diameter D = Flange Thickness E =Overall Length F = Bottom Skirt O.D
B=3.232 / C=3.540 / D=.200 / E=4.370 / F=3.206

If anyone have used sleeves like this or know if they will fit right in please let me know.

Rolf

[Troyskie]

I've no experience re-sleeving, so this is just a guess. Also, I can't find any info on sleeve OD dimensions in my manuals.

However, as you already have the head off you could measure the top flange and the skirt of the sleeves you have. If the measurements are close it might work.

The most cost effective solution I found was to replace the OEM with a Wiseco 1219 set and have the sleeves re-bored to suit. While I was at it I did get the upgraded valve springs. This was all supplied by Randy/Robert with no fuss.

All in all the OEM parts for oversize were more expensive or simply unavailable.

I had the re-bore done by a shop, but did the assembly my self. Very straight forward (after assembling incorrectly about 5 times  ).

[Old Rider]

I've no experience re-sleeving, so this is just a guess. Also, I can't find any info on sleeve OD dimensions in my manuals.

However, as you already have the head off you could measure the top flange and the skirt of the sleeves you have. If the measurements are close it might work.

The most cost effective solution I found was to replace the OEM with a Wiseco 1219 set and have the sleeves re-bored to suit. While I was at it I did get the upgraded valve springs. This was all supplied by Randy/Robert with no fuss.

All in all the OEM parts for oversize were more expensive or simply unavailable.

I had the re-bore done by a shop, but did the assembly my self. Very straight forward (after assembling incorrectly about 5 times  ).

Hi Troyskie many good suggestions i measured the upper flange diameter and the lower sleeve skirt but i had to bee sure of the other measurements before i bought the sleeves and also i was in a hurry because they was on ebay and could get sold before i got them measured Therefore i did some baking in the oven look at my next post .Did you replace the pistons with wiseco  and rings? do you remeber what size the wiseco sleeves was before the got bored?

[Old Rider]

I had to find out what the measurements on the cylindersleeves was and to do that they had to come out.
Today  while the woman in the house was out i used the opportunity to do some cylinder baking  in the oven .
I baked the cylinder at 180 degree Celsius for 40 minutes and it did not smell like a steak ,pizza or chocolate kake it smelled much better more like fj1200 cylinders with new paint on combined with gasoline old burned oil high revs and also some good old two stroke exhaust smell strange but i  loved that smell .  When finished cocking i placed them on some wood and a gave the sleeves a light knock ,that was enough to make them just drop out.
All measurements was about the same as the YA-984 LA sleeves  so i bought them.
The inside diameter on the new sleeves is 76.2mm so they have to be adjusted to fit the pistons .I'm not sure if
it is enough to use honing or if it has to be bored to make the bore about 0.05mm  bigger
The old sleeves is just in spec in taper and oval shape .I could have reused them but  the risk of burning oil and blowby is higher than if i bought the new sleeves.
So I'm going to use same standard pistons eather the one i got or mayby a set of almost new pistons i can buy. Then bore or hone the diameter in the new sleeves to fit my pistons.

[Troyskie]

Well done mate. Did the missus ask what's for dinner?

[Old Rider]

Well done mate. Did the missus ask what's for dinner?

No when she came home the smell was gone  .Not sure how it will smell when the oven is reheated

When you did your rebuild did you switch both cylinder sleeves and  pistons to wiseco ? And do you know what the diametre of the wiseco sleeves was before bore them?

[Troyskie]

No mate, my rebuild was of the budget variety.

The original sleeves were left in, but bored to suit the 1219 Wiseco kit (Pistons & ring set). I did go with the shorter skirt, higher compression pistons.

Kookaloo!