Splitting the cases

[Old Rider]

The crankchaft has also been measured all 4 big end bearing clearance is in spec measured 0.200mm spec is 0.160-0.262mm
then measured with plastigage and all 5 journals had too big oilclearance spec is 0.02-0.044mm .I suspect the readings may be wrong because i discovered that my tourquewrench
might have gone bad it was clicking to early and i didnt get the right torque on the bolts.so i will either try to calibrate the wrench or buy another.
I used the numbers on the crank  211111111 and the numbers on the rear upper crankcase 444?4 to find out what bearings i need but one of the number on the case was unreadable (se pic)
lucky i could see the color on the bearing it is brown all the other bearings is brown and the first jornal is black but not 100 % sure.I then started measuring the rodbearings but i used red plastigage on them but find out that was wrong so i have ordered more green plastigage.

[Old Rider]

I also did a quick runout test of the crankchaft  when it is laying in the outer bearings it had only 0.01mm runout not sure if the method i used to measure it is acurate enough but did not have v blocks

[Pat Conlon]

Are there any numbers on the crank's counter weights?
I recall years ago someone posted that they did not record the numbers before they sent their crank off to APE to be lightened, and thus, APE shaved off the numbers.

[Old Rider]

Are there any numbers on the crank's counter weights?
I recall years ago someone posted that they did not record the numbers before they sent their crank off to APE to be lightened, and thus, APE shaved off the numbers.

Yes i have read that tread APE should have record the numbers .The numbers engraved on the crank is 211111111 i not able to take a pick right now will later.Numbers back on the upper case is 444 ? 4   .

[Old Rider]

The platigage i ordered has arrived so last night i installed the new crankshaft journal bearings and tested them.
All oilclearance measurements is now in spec about 0.038mm i had hoped mayby even better numbers but i guess the
crankshaft journals are a little worn.The spec is 0.020 to 0.044.The clearance is now much better than with the old
bearings that measured around 0.076mm.

[Old Rider]

Today the  the oilclearance on the conrodjournals was measured i bought a new tourquewrench yesterday but i think
mayby that one is out of calibration also because i had to use much force to get it clicking on 36NM i have to get
it checked ,it is a cheap wrench i think i have to go for a more expensive one.One thing that im wondering about is that
the manual says nothing about replacing the conrodbolts doesent they stretch?
Anyway i lubed the threads on the bolts as manual says and tourqed them to 36NM wich felt more like 100Nm and it was
hard to apply the force needed an the same time keeping the hole crancase not turning.
I got the measurements and they are on the limit to be worn out they meaured 0.038mm and the spec is 0.017 to
0.040mm so i will replace the bearings.All bearings color is brown .and all conrods are marked 4

[Old Rider]

Have done some more work on cylhead i started sanding with a large flat laminated piece .It had some sinkmarks from the old headgasket that i wanted to remove.
I wetsanded in 4 stages with first 320grit  then 500grit and 800grit and finished with 1000grit .I used a paintmarker and drawed parallel lines over the hole surface between each step many times  to keep control  how even the sanding was .The surface is flat when i test it with feeleblade but im not sure if its smooth enough .Didnt want to use finer grit because then it maybe get to glossy?? There are some scratches visible when looking at hi res photo but they cant bee felt with fingernail.Is this good or do i go over some more to remove the last scratches? and make a mirror finish?

And starting to think i mayby have to replace the new valvestemseals on the three valves i had to relap are they destroyed by the lapping?

[Old Rider]

New year and new uppdate and a happy new year to all fj riders!
Been waiting for connection rod bearings to arrive i got them now and while waiting on the bearings i done
some polishing to the alu on the engine covers next will be black engine paint on them.

[Old Rider]

Also have recieved a used oilpump from ebay that i first was planning on taking the splined axle from and use in
the one i had in the engine who had broken splines.I measured the one i had in engine before and did find it was
still usable, but when i now dismantled it further i found lots of deep scratches and dents from something that has
got sucked in and made a mess.Randy or Robert mention earlier that mayby my clutch exploded and that is why the
lower crancase is welded.I guess that how the splines on the oilpump broke off and got in the pump.
I ended up using the oilpump from ebay as after measuring it its in good condition.

[Old Rider]

Some work been done on the starterclutch .Replaced the rubberdampers the old ones was hard as bone and a little
cracked.I would have liked to replace the 2nd idler gear as it seems that the innerbrass collar is a little worn
there is a little slack/play when i put the collar inside and wiggle but the gear is very expensive so i think i
just replace the bearing and collar .I never had any problems with the starterclutch.

[Old Rider]

Then it was time for connecting rod bearings again.i measured all new bearings again with plastigage and at first
i was a little disapointed with the measurements as it was almost the same as with old bearings.I measured them in
my cellar and its freezing cold there so i thinked mayby i got better readings if i carry the crank inside at room
temprature.I did and  measured the day after and the readings was a little better.See pics. Im still a little unsure
if i can use the bearings since the measurements
is so close to limit the measurements is cyl-1 ca 0.037 cyl-2 ca 0.035 cyl-3 ca 0.038 and cyl-4 0.036
The spec is 0.017 to 0.040mm I used brown bearings as the numbers on the crank and crankcase sayd.
Does anyone know what bearingcolor that will make the oilclearances tighter? i mean color on thicker bearings?

[Old Rider]

Found this guy sitting on the crank mayby it was he who once blow up the clutchbasket  Happy New Year!

[Old Rider]

uppdate
yesterday i started the work of honing the cylinders.I have not done this before so i can only try to replicate
what i have read about it.I bought a cheap honingtool it has 280 grit stones on it.
I used wd-40 as honing oil.i honed the cylinders for about 2-3 minutes each with the drill at slow speed moving in
and out trying to get a 45 degre pattern on the scratches.I notised there is a grove on top of the cylinders from
the pistonrings .I dont know if i have to hone more so they go away or if its ok to leave them?
If i remove the groves i think the hole bore diameter is going to be out of spec and the piston to cylinderwall
clearance go out of spec.
I washed very carefully with soapy water 3 times to get them clean but then it rusted in minutes afterwards so now trying to clean out the rust with wd40
What shall i do now is the scratches to deep so i mayby have to hone some more with finer grit stones?

[CutterBill]

Old Rider...
1. WD40 is a lousy honing oil. Next time, try using ATF (any cheap brand will do.)
2. Those rigid stone hones are ok, but the Flex-Hone (bottle brush) style is much better. Expensive though.
3. Your crosshatch pattern looks pretty good. Honest, it's not all that critical; something close to 45-degrees is fine. There is a bit of a learned technique for honing a cylinder by hand; helps if you have seen someone do it. Having done 100's of cylinders, I've got a rhythm... balancing drill motor speed vs. stroking speed. And it's really a 2-man job; one runs the drill while the other squirts the ATF (I use a large pump type oil can.) You want to flood the cylinder while you're honing. Do this inside a cardboard box to catch the mess.
4. That's not a "groove" at the top of the cylinder; it's a ridge. That is the original bore where piston rings never go. There are special tools (ridge reamer) that cut away that ridge but it's really not needed in your case. Below that ridge where the true wear takes place. If there is a significant ridge, that means that the cylinder is worn.
5. As you have discovered, it's not a good idea to clean the cylinder with water. Use lacquer thinner (gasoline if you're broke) and white paper towels. Scrub out the cylinder and oil it.
6. To get the rust out of your cylinders, staple some maroon scotchbrite to a wooden dowel. Chuck up in your drill and scrub out the rust. Or just lightly hone it again. Clean with lacquer thinner/oil.
Bill

[ribbert]

Old Rider...
1. WD40 is a lousy honing oil. Next time, try using ATF (any cheap brand will do.)
2. Those rigid stone hones are ok, but the Flex-Hone (bottle brush) style is much better. Expensive though.
3. Your crosshatch pattern looks pretty good. Honest, it's not all that critical; something close to 45-degrees is fine. There is a bit of a learned technique for honing a cylinder by hand; helps if you have seen someone do it. Having done 100's of cylinders, I've got a rhythm... balancing drill motor speed vs. stroking speed. And it's really a 2-man job; one runs the drill while the other squirts the ATF (I use a large pump type oil can.) You want to flood the cylinder while you're honing. Do this inside a cardboard box to catch the mess.
4. That's not a "groove" at the top of the cylinder; it's a ridge. That is the original bore where piston rings never go. There are special tools (ridge reamer) that cut away that ridge but it's really not needed in your case. Below that ridge where the true wear takes place. If there is a significant ridge, that means that the cylinder is worn.
5. As you have discovered, it's not a good idea to clean the cylinder with water. Use lacquer thinner (gasoline if you're broke) and white paper towels. Scrub out the cylinder and oil it.
6. To get the rust out of your cylinders, staple some maroon scotchbrite to a wooden dowel. Chuck up in your drill and scrub out the rust. Or just lightly hone it again. Clean with lacquer thinner/oil.
Bill