Splitting the cases

[RPM - Robert]

Yikes!

Glad you saved a few Krone 

[Old Rider]

Yes you guys has saved my ass thanks!
By the way is it not possible to install the cylinders and head while engine is in the bike? i was thinking to carry the engine into my garage and install the engine without the cylinders first but
i think i read somwhere on the forum that it is not possible ??

[RPM - Robert]

The cylinders would be a royal PITA trying to deal with the rings and everything in the chassis.

It is possible to get the head and cams install in the frame but it is much easier to do while it is out.

Possible... Yes
Easier... No

[Old Rider]

The cylinders would be a royal PITA trying to deal with the rings and everything in the chassis.

It is possible to get the head and cams install in the frame but it is much easier to do while it is out.

Possible... Yes
Easier... No

Okay that is god to know then i think i will install cylinders and head before installing engine in bike.

[Old Rider]

Just posting some picks to show how i sealed the tank before poring in the etch and sealer.I used rtv silicone and small woodblocks.I did a mistake and  used to much rtv and that is not smart because later i found a lot of small black pieces embedded in the white sealer.I should have used another type of rtv that is gasoline safe.The black rtv pieces is still stuck in the sealer now 2 years later so that is good
I use bil hirsch gas tank sealer it contains 3 bottles rince, etch , and liner/sealer.It is alcohol and ethanol safe.
also i have painted the headers with a heat color that i have testet using a torch on so hoping that will stay on

[Troyskie]

I had the 1200 cases in when I put the barrels on.

But the bike was on a hoist and I used 4 vice grips on the studs to hold the barrels in position whilst getting it over the rings.

Not particularly easy but doable.

[Old Rider]

I had the 1200 cases in when I put the barrels on.

But the bike was on a hoist and I used 4 vice grips on the studs to hold the barrels in position whilst getting it over the rings.

Not particularly easy but doable.

Thats a good tip thanks

[Old Rider]

This evening i got the metalgasket and new wristpin circlips and bolt nr 21 that snapped off earlier.
I started with measuring the piston to cylinderdeck whitout any gasket. It was difficult to do a good measure
and i used both a dialgauge and feelerblades. After several attempt getting a good measure i found that the piston
is  above the cylinderdeck 0.26 mm  at tdc.
i tested the hoseclamp on the pistons and it was useless even if it worked perfect when tested on bench yesterday.
so i will use the other method .
I re measured the metalgasket and found it is 0.20 mm .so with one gasket the piston height will be 0.06 mm above
cyldeck and with 2 gaskets stacked it will 0.14 mm under the cylinder deck.I think that is okay??
I almost did a mistake again because i was going to put on the sump pan and use some permatex on the surfaces
so it will harden before i fill op engine with oil.I'm glad i suddenly remembered that the nr21 bolt that snapped
was not  installed yet .so that is enough for this evening.
The gaskets for the sump and clutchcover is made of coated metal I'm not sure if i can use some permatex ultra black
on the surface on the pan because there are some scratches there ??

[racerrad8]

The piston has to be below the deck,  you will be fine with two gaskets.

There is not any gasket sealant required on any of the gaskets you are installing. Hell,  you don't need any more lock rite either.

DO NOT use sealants!

The oil pan is the last thing to install.  The engine remains stable without it so you can get the barrels install,  head installed and cams properly timed.

Put the pan on and the thing will keep trying to tip over.

Finally,  you need to address the motor mount.

Randy - RPM

[Old Rider]

Here is an update It has ben some hectic days .I worked hard to get the engine in the bike.I taught that i would
manage to get the bike ready in one day but instead it took me 5 long days .one reason is that almost everything
i tryed to assembly was fighting back and i had to use long time to get it right.Working in my tight garage
did not help either.
First day in the garage i fitted the cylinders .I used the method where i first install all 4 pistons with the rings
on in the cylinder then lower it over the studs and connect the rods and pistons and installing wristpins and
circlips. I had planned to use the hoseclamps that worked great to get the pistons in the cylinders ,but when i try
to use them when the cylinderbarrel is lowered over the studs they where useless and could not be used.
After the cylinder barell was installed the oilrelief valves and pickupscreen was mounted .Then i used lugage straps
and a jack to lift the engine up into the frame of bike
and then installed the rear engine mounts i forgot to take a pick of that.

[Old Rider]

On day 2 in the garage i had the engine lifted into frame and bolted in the rear engine mounts. Then installed the cylinder head
.There was problems when torqued the cylinder headnuts.I oiled the treads with engine oil and started to apply
torque i was planning to toque them in 2 steps first 28NM then 35NM final ,but the torquewrench did make me wonder
if something was wrong because again it did not click even i felt i used much more force than 28NM.After some
fiddling i got it to click at 28NM on all nuts but i did not dear to try to torque them to 35Nm because then i think
a stud would snap or strip treads. I know it was not smart to use my not reliable torque wrench but i havent had time
or money to buy another more professional right now.I will recheck the torque with a better wrench later.
Then i installed the camshafts and try to get the timingmarks to match up.I did not tought that would not be a
problem since i have done it sometimes before ,but there i was wrong.I spent many hours trying to get them to match.
At last i got it right by remowe the intake camsprocket and remesh the thimingchain.
After that i checked the valves and was very surprised that almost all of them had to be adjusted.I adjusted the
valves earlier this winter on the bech so i dont understand why the all where off??? i had to get 3 more shims even
i have about 10 extra shims laying here.I drove to yamaha and the mechanic there sold me the shims.
Later when i was installing the oilpump and clutchbasket i did a chocking discovery.deep inside the oilpan there was a shim laying  .
I mean wTF ?? how the hell did it get there?  i did not put it there ?? i got it out with a magnetic tool.

[Old Rider]

On day 3 and 4 i mounted more parts on the bike.like clutch starter alternator fixed some wires ets ets..
one thing that took a god loong day was installing the carbs back.I have done this several times but this time it
was extra painful because the airbox rubbers are so damaged and torn.I have bought new rubbers from eBay but they
turned out to not fit and i did not discover that before i was in the midle of installing them.I tryed some rubbers
from fzr1000 i had but they did not fit either so i had to reuse my old ones if i wanted the bike back on road .
I ended up drilling large holes in back of the airbox and use a long screwdriver that was not sharp to guide the
rubbers on to the lower carbtroats.
After a long day getting the carbs installed i pre filled them with fuel to make the startup faster and look for
leaks. And heyyyy when i was pouring the fuel into fuelline the fuel just pissed out the overflow tubes !! that was
not funny .I then had to rethink everything and take a break. Then later that evening i got back in the garage and
knocked on the carb bowls  to see if it mayby it will free up a stuck float and like a miracle the carbs stopped
leaking !!
Next day i mounted the exhaust with new gaskets.Filled 3.3litres yamalube and try to start.I have made a video of
the first startup but i dont know how to upload the video.
Fist i used the startermotor with the plugs out to prelube the engine .Then i mounted the plugs at first it was dead
but that was because i forgot to put the plugcaps on =) second try was also no action so the i used a little
carbthrottle cleaner in airfilter  and the she fired right up and sounded real good so that was a relief and im a
happy man !!
A little later i was out for a ride i knew it was going to be short because i read that the first ride after rebuild
should last about 5 minutes .After some minutes the oil lamp came on so i stopped and looked for obvious problems
like oil leaks .There was no leaks and when i took a look at the oil level sight glass it was very low on oil.
So then i waited about 40 minutes eating a hot dog and a cola at the gas station.so the engine got cold i read that
this is the procedure after first 5 minutes on a rebuild ride..Then i ride
back home and filled a little more oil and ride some more this time the oil lamp stayed off.Then i rode home again
about a 10 minutes ride .So far there is no bad engine noises no bangs no more sharp metallick clicks .
The gearing feels much better
I want to thank everyone that has helped me with there expertise it really been great help.Thanks to Randy and
Robert at RPM that has given guidance and advice and for the super service they provide.They shipped the parts
faster than lightning .
Il bee back with more updates after a little more riding

[Old Rider]

Then i got a you tube upload:
https://youtu.be/3ctFFJd65hA

[Troyskie]

Well done Rolf!! 
It is a wonderful feeling. You must be very satisfied.

You probably already know, but re-torque will be necessary shortly. It is also a good time to check every nut and screw is tight when you're doing the RE torque.

I'm sure you've already done it but, balance the carbies, and get the mixture right.

I really like idea for the holes in the back of the airbox. One of my 11's has an airbox that is easy, and one is a real bugger like yours.

With the attention to detail, and real care you've put in, this bike should be good for another 30 years!

The timing looks like you can do the advance trick, and as you've already pulled the clutch, did you do the basic clutch mod and remove the wire retainer?

[T Legg]

Your engine sounds great.You are the definition of perseverance.