i have no torch
i have no impact hammer
i scratched it with an inner-tube and vise grip
the hex is a little rounded
what is the answer?
help
Large easy-out?
(https://s2.qwant.com/thumbr/0x380/c/1/b39b80d4f8edd481a9636ad3c065e61e88bee80eaad49d5680f451c42696e1/s-l1000.jpg?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fi%2F291855965878-0-1%2Fs-l1000.jpg&q=0&b=1&p=0&a=1)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_164153_zpsmcdpseco.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_164153_zpsmcdpseco.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190705_133340_zpsvdmtgtfr.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190705_133340_zpsvdmtgtfr.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190623_133126_zpskaz1shcj.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190623_133126_zpskaz1shcj.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_164157_zpsaphkgicv.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_164157_zpsaphkgicv.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_172931_zps07vzeoen.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_172931_zps07vzeoen.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_164613_zpsysq5kjgr.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_164613_zpsysq5kjgr.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190623_132318_zpsfa8ivumf.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190623_132318_zpsfa8ivumf.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_172947_zpsd9szn59z.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_172947_zpsd9szn59z.jpg.html)
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/custome%20risers%20fj_zps2uzvid91.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/custome%20risers%20fj_zps2uzvid91.jpg.html)
So, did you get it?
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 07:39:18 PM
Large easy-out?
(https://s2.qwant.com/thumbr/0x380/c/1/b39b80d4f8edd481a9636ad3c065e61e88bee80eaad49d5680f451c42696e1/s-l1000.jpg?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fi%2F291855965878-0-1%2Fs-l1000.jpg&q=0&b=1&p=0&a=1)
i can still get a little leverage with the hex wrench, i think i own the ez out, what can i put on the ez out to have enough leverage?
a drill works, but take it easy. otherwise a socket that fits well. Otherwise, heat is very very effective.
Mine was seized, and I used this to get it off:
https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5)
Can have it in one day if you have prime. But, to heat it,you will need to take off,or cut off the grips.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 17, 2019, 08:06:10 PM
So, did you get it?
i cleaned up and called it quits for today, didn't really want to start on it, thinking the brake/clutch line could be too short, still don't know if the brake lines has the slack, i think it does tho,
it was easier than i thought, and could have finished it if not for the seize
so the right bar end stopped progress cold, i could still ride the bike, i have been so busy the last time i started/rode the bike was last month this time
anywhoo i idled the bike , for a while so that's good
I would use a large crescent wrench to grip the end of the easy out if I didn't have an impact wrench.
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 17, 2019, 08:10:05 PM
a drill works, but take it easy. otherwise a socket that fits well. Otherwise, heat is very very effective.
Mine was seized, and I used this to get it off:
https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5)
Can have it in one day if you have prime. But, to heat it,you will need to take off,or cut off the grips.
yeah, but isn't the rubber grip and plastic throttle right there? i sprayed wd-40 and tapped it with a screwdriver handle ha ha ha, lame it did nothing
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 08:15:01 PM
I would use a large crescent wrench to grip the end of the easy out if I didn't have an impact wrench.
ok i bought the ez outs kit with matching drill bits from harbor freight a while ago( self fulfilling) , and this would be popping it's cherry, i have crescent wrench
at least it not my cylinder head or something like that lol
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 17, 2019, 08:10:05 PM
a drill works, but take it easy. otherwise a socket that fits well. Otherwise, heat is very very effective.
Mine was seized, and I used this to get it off:
https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Culinary-Refillable-Adjustable-Desserts/dp/B07L8YPYQK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=butane+torch&qid=1563410308&s=gateway&sr=8-5)
Can have it in one day if you have prime. But, to heat it,you will need to take off,or cut off the grips.
if i do heat it, what tool did you used to turn it out?
I would tap the easy out with a hammer to set it in the head of the hex screw. Then grip the easy out with the wrench and twist
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 08:32:16 PM
I would tap the easy out with a hammer to set it in the head of the hex screw. Then grip the easy out with the wrench and twist
ok gona give that a try, so no drilling
Thats a good idea Rick, I didnt think about a crescent wrench. To be honest, I has already munched mine to hell, so i didnt care. I tried easy outs, and they just stripped it more. So i heated the hell out of it, and grabbed it with channel locks, and it twisted right out.
To address the plastics in the way of heating, just take the bar out of the other end (the riser side, and strip everything off that way, then chuck it into a vise to hold it while you turn.
But hey, if the easy outs work, thats gonna be a hell of a lot simpler than my way!
If the bar end is already screwed up use a pipe wrench to remove it.
MTC, Easy Outs or screw extractors are very hard and brittle steel. Never use anything to gain leverage or you will snap the extractor inside the screw and then you'll be flucked and plucked. If it won't come out with just a wrench on the extractor then stop. Heat would be your only answer unless you could get some penetrant inside those threads. You can buy a MAP gas torch at hardware stores around here. MAP gas burns hotter than propane.
Joe
Quote from: T Legg on July 17, 2019, 09:04:58 PM
If the bar end is already screwed up use a pipe wrench to remove it.
i am tempted to pipe wrench it, but i don't think i have one.... and i could always file down the teeth marks and repaint it, i am doing things on the cheap here, 2500.00 bike, already got 3700.00 in it
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_173121_zpsfubsh4t7.jpg) (http://s679.photobucket.com/user/Salsadancer383/media/20190717_173121_zpsfubsh4t7.jpg.html)
Quote from: T Legg on July 17, 2019, 09:04:58 PM
If the bar end is already screwed up use a pipe wrench to remove it.
This is a good point. The easy-out will destroy the hex hole, so expect to replace the bar end. I wouldn't thread it back on there after using an easy-out.
You local auto parts store might have an electric impact wrench they loan for free
Might try a strap wrench... you might even be able to fashion one from a belt or something that will grip the bar end.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 09:29:42 PM
You local auto parts store might have an electric impact wrench they loan for free
i have a harbor freight 1/4 impact driver
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/impact-drivers/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/impact-drivers/20v-lithium-cordless-14-in-hex-compact-impact-driver-kit-63380.html)
is this worth a shit?
1/4 is pretty dainty. I would use a full 1/2" if possible
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 09:29:42 PM
You local auto parts store might have an electric impact wrench they loan for free
just called autozone and no , no loaners
Wrap a strap around the bar end, and around a socket driver extension. Then use the socket handle to leverage the strap to loosen the bar end.
(https://s2.qwant.com/thumbr/0x380/7/e/e674f69d443e4009899e9d2776244b46d076cb0c3751b54bae3c666b470470/13771_256-O4N_draper.jpg?u=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.esellerpro.com%2F41%2FI%2F658%2F7%2F13771_256-O4N_draper.jpg&q=0&b=1&p=0&a=1)
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 09:33:28 PM
1/4 is pretty dainty. I would use a full 1/2" if possible
rotflmao
pipe wrench time, i already toothmarked it with vise grips
another idea would be to take the clipon off and take it to any auto shop and ask them to remove it for you. they would have a vise and an impact
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 09:36:15 PM
Wrap a strap around the bar end, and around a socket driver extension. Then use the socket handle to leverage the strap to loosen the bar end.
(https://s2.qwant.com/thumbr/0x380/7/e/e674f69d443e4009899e9d2776244b46d076cb0c3751b54bae3c666b470470/13771_256-O4N_draper.jpg?u=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.esellerpro.com%2F41%2FI%2F658%2F7%2F13771_256-O4N_draper.jpg&q=0&b=1&p=0&a=1)
that is a cool device
They sell em at Home Depot. It would allow a very long handle for leverage.
But you could make one with a piece of square tubing and a strap.
(https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_products_slideshow/fullsize_27891.jpg)
Quote from: ZOA NOM on July 17, 2019, 09:39:32 PM
another idea would be to take the clipon off and take it to any auto shop and ask them to remove it for you. they would have a vise and an impact
then i would have to disconnect the throttle cable right?
Yeah, you'd have to disconnect the throttle cables and the brake master.
I see bar end sets for twenty bucks all over e-bay.or up grade to weighted ends from rpm.just get out the pipe wrench and do it.
Quote from: T Legg on July 17, 2019, 09:54:14 PM
I see bar end sets for twenty bucks all over e-bay.or up grade to weighted ends from rpm.just get out the pipe wrench and do it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motorcycle-Anti-Vibration-Handle-for-Kawasaki-KTM-Bar-End-Plug-Grip-End-Caps/192168289614?fits=Model%3AFJ1100&hash=item2cbe1f654e:m:m44gwNSS2hOjh1fVEGWZHPA (https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motorcycle-Anti-Vibration-Handle-for-Kawasaki-KTM-Bar-End-Plug-Grip-End-Caps/192168289614?fits=Model%3AFJ1100&hash=item2cbe1f654e:m:m44gwNSS2hOjh1fVEGWZHPA)
so are these supported by a rubber hose and the weighted portion can bounce slightly to oscillate counter to the vibrations?, should i try them they are cheap,
RPM has a little counter weight inside i noticed and i think that jiggles counter to the vibrations, someone told me they help , but only a little
Weigh your FJ's oem bar ends...
If you get an aftermarket bar end, at least get one that has the same weight as your oem bar end..
There is a reason the engineers at Yamaha designed the bar ends the way they did..
Yes, the RPM Vibranators work to reduce the high frequency vibes and they are designed to include the oem FJ bar end.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on July 17, 2019, 10:31:39 PM
Weigh your FJ's oem bar ends...
If you get an aftermarket bar end, at least get one that has the same weight as your oem bar end..
There is a reason the engineers at Yamaha designed the bar ends the way they did..
Yes, the RPM Vibranators work to reduce the high frequency vibes and they are designed to include the oem FJ bar end.
+1. Those are 60 grams, which is like 2.1 ounces. Ive weighed the bar ends before, and OEM is like 13 ounces.
How to remove seized bar ends:
Unfortunately, that little internal hex isn't big enough to get any real torque on the bar end. All you will do is round-out the internal hex. Absolutely do not use an Easy-Out or similar device. As mentioned they are very brittle and will snap with any amount of torque applied to them.
So when I was faced with the same problem, I just used a large pipe wrench and broke it loose. Try to do it in "one-shot"; don't let the pipe wrench slip and chew up the bar end any more than is necessary. Then I chucked the bar ends into my lathe and smoothed off the wrench marks with a file. While I had it in the lathe, I drilled out the buggered internal hex to a convenient size that would get down to clean, non-rusty metal. With that done, I removed the bar-ends, welded up the hole I just made, reinstalled into the lathe and turned the welds smooth. So at this point the bar ends are smooth and have no internal hex at all...
Then I moved the bar ends to my vertical mill, and milled an external hex on the very end (of the bar end.) I don't remember right now what size it was; probably either a 17 or 19mm hex. The surface of the hex wasn't very deep, about 1/4" or so. Then I painted the ends gloss black. When finished, it was barely noticeable and looked stock. I'll try to take a photo in a few days.
Make sure you clean all of the rust from the threads (inside and outside) and reinstall the bar ends with anti-seize on the threads.
Bill
Quote from: CutterBill on July 17, 2019, 11:12:12 PM
How to remove seized bar ends:
Unfortunately, that little internal hex isn't big enough to get any real torque on the bar end. All you will do is round-out the internal hex. Absolutely do not use an Easy-Out or similar device. As mentioned they are very brittle and will snap with any amount of torque applied to them.
So when I was faced with the same problem, I just used a large pipe wrench and broke it loose. Try to do it in "one-shot"; don't let the pipe wrench slip and chew up the bar end any more than is necessary. Then I chucked the bar ends into my lathe and smoothed off the wrench marks with a file. While I had it in the lathe, I drilled out the buggered internal hex to a convenient size that would get down to clean, non-rusty metal. With that done, I removed the bar-ends, welded up the hole I just made, reinstalled into the lathe and turned the welds smooth. So at this point the bar ends are smooth and have no internal hex at all...
Then I moved the bar ends to my vertical mill, and milled an external hex on the very end (of the bar end.) I don't remember right now what size it was; probably either a 17 or 19mm hex. The surface of the hex wasn't very deep, about 1/4" or so. Then I painted the ends gloss black. When finished, it was barely noticeable and looked stock. I'll try to take a photo in a few days.
Make sure you clean all of the rust from the threads (inside and outside) and reinstall the bar ends with anti-seize on the threads.
Bill
i can't even find my pipe wrench and you are talking about lathes and welding ha ha ha ha, those skills i do not have at all
i am going to harbor freight buy me a $6.99 wrench with a 20% off coupon, file the teeth marks, and grease the thread after i clean them and use the wrench every time to get them off or leave 'em on hand tight and maybe they will jiggle a little so the vibrations will lessen
and
hope they don't fall out and kill someone behind me...oops
when i had my xs1100 no vibrations whatsoever... and it must be my imagination but i think the XS have more low end grunt, but on paper the FJ rules, i miss my XS
As has been said, using those spiral, fluted, tapered extractors is usually the last thing you do before taking it to someone else to now remove both the screw and the extractor. It has been my great misfortune, in this regard, to spend much of my working life as that guy. At least in this instance it is only a handle bar, not an engine block etc.
Those style easy outs should only be used to gain purchase where a bolt or screw head has sheared off when tightening or where a butchered head won't allow a spanner or screwdriver to grab, not when it has sheared off trying to loosen it because it is seized.
Anyway, to the job at hand. Heat and percussion are not suitable for this application, that leaves leverage and purchase.
Believe it or not, this technique was formally taught to us in trade school, leather. If the surface is clean (not oily or greasy) and the leather is dry and the right thickness and texture, it is amazing how much force you can apply without slipping and without damaging the finish.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/2840/12331335613_a48b5c936e_c.jpg)
This was on Doug's (The General) XS outfit, being the last one I did that wanted to be ornery.
A handle bar in situ is a bit springy for belting it with something "sharp" to work but if all else fails, remove it from the bike and put in a vice, then whack it!
Noel
.....I should have added, if that doesn't work for you, go with Cutter Bills plan, pipe wrench directly onto the bar end and clean it up afterwards (or buy a new one). Under no circumstances drill it and use a screw extractor.
Noel
Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors. If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes. Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out. Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.
Quote from: mtc on July 17, 2019, 11:21:02 PM
i can't even find my pipe wrench and you are talking about lathes and welding ha ha ha ha, those skills i do not have at all...
MTC... I understand that not everyone has a machine shop in their back yard. You don't give your location (a pox on you who do not...) but if you send me your bar ends, I will modify them for you.
Bill
Maybe a dumb question but what exactly do the weights do? Do you need them? My last Fj didn't have any (I bought it with bar end mirrors) I don't remember it having any vibrations so to speak
Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars...
To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."
Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness. :good2:
You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill
My bad regarding the easy-out. I was confused by the first pic posted by OP. I thought he was trying to remove the master. I switched my advice once I figured it out. :Facepalm:
(https://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/20190717_164153_zpsmcdpseco.jpg)
Quote from: CutterBill on July 18, 2019, 09:15:44 AM
Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars...
To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."
Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness. :good2:
You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill
No my old Fj I had had came with bar end mirrors... my new one has stock weights /mirrors I don't remember thinking it vibrated but with your explanation I would assume I'd notice it on back to back runs. Thanks for the education... I knew that had something to do along those lines.. I don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on July 18, 2019, 07:31:51 PM
Quote from: CutterBill on July 18, 2019, 09:15:44 AM
Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars...
To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."
Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness. :good2:
You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill
No my old Fj I had had came with bar end mirrors... my new one has stock weights /mirrors I don't remember thinking it vibrated but with your explanation I would assume I'd notice it on back to back runs. Thanks for the education... I knew that had something to do along those lines.. I don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?
i think the vibrations has something to do with the clip-ons mounted directly to the fork tubes, lots of old bikes rubber mount tubular handlebars
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on July 18, 2019, 07:31:51 PMI don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?
It's impossible to say in advance. Noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) is one of those black arts that are tended to by mad scientists toiling over boiling kettles, accelerometers and oscilloscopes. You will just have to install the new bars and see if they vibrate. If they do, you can experiment with clamping on bar ends of varying weights and see if they help. Welcome to the madness... :diablo:
Bill
Quote from: mtc on July 17, 2019, 10:13:08 PM
RPM has a little counter weight inside i noticed and i think that jiggles counter to the vibrations, someone told me they help , but only a little
The RPM handlebar ends are designed around the tuned mass damper principle. They were designed based on the harmonic frequency of the FJ engine. The counter weight is inside the handlebar clip on and absorbing a significant amount of the vibrations. This becomes very apparent when you grab the bar end itself and feel the vibrations.
As far as the level of absorbation, I am sure is varies due to many things such as Carb sync, motor mount condition, chain and sprockets, etc.
After selling more than 200 sets of the original "vibranator" brand and now the improved RPM version, there is not a better handlebar end for your FJ.
Randy - RPM
With my getting new mirrors soon, I was wondering, do the vibranators help with mirror vibration at all? Or is it more for comfort and shoulder fatigue?
Thank you for clearing that up... sorry if I hi jacked this thread.
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on July 18, 2019, 07:31:51 PM
Quote from: CutterBill on July 18, 2019, 09:15:44 AM
I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?
Here is the Superbike style handle bar kit that RPM offers. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ASpieglerHandleBarKit (http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ASpieglerHandleBarKit)
As in the photo, there are bar end weights. Like Bill mentioned, when modifying handle bars, you won't know how much vibration transfers until you get the handle bars on the bike and ride it.
HVMP makes some seriously heavy bar ends. I have used them on 2 of my FJ's that I used aftermarket clip on handle bars.
http://www.hvmp.com/Default.asp (http://www.hvmp.com/Default.asp)
Fred
What are the clip one you used? Are they a different hieght or position? They look good
Quote from: Dieselman7.3 on July 19, 2019, 05:38:57 AM
What are the clip one you used? Are they a different hieght or position? They look good
These are the handle bars that I have on my FJ. https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/product/3-inch-clip-on-riser-assembly (https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/product/3-inch-clip-on-riser-assembly)
Mine are 50mm due to the USD forks. I believe the OEM FJ fork tubes are 41mm. I would measure to be sure.
Fred
Thanks again
Quote from: Motofun on July 18, 2019, 08:41:50 AM
Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors. If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes. Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out. Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.
Words of wisdom from someone that obviously has experience with them. Don't just dump them, throw them away so you are not tempted to use them. There are many types of easy-outs but they all share the one flaw for the inexperienced user, the taper, it puts all the load in one place.
I have a set of those square section straight fluted type and also some square section splined ones, I think they are probably my favourite. However, what I have been using in recent years is simply a set of Torx bits, work like magic and are already socket mounted and there's always a full set and the right size on hand when you need them.
(https://www.kittstools.com/media/products/ss_size1/SK84213.jpg)
Belt one of these in the depth of the screw/bolt having drilled the right size hole and you'll rotate the bike before it let's go.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 19, 2019, 07:28:54 AM
Quote from: Motofun on July 18, 2019, 08:41:50 AM
Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors. If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes. Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out. Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.
Words of wisdom from someone that obviously has experience with them. Don't just dump them, throw them away so you are not tempted to use them. There are many types of easy-outs but they all share the one flaw for the inexperienced user, the taper, it puts all the load in one place.
I have a set of those square section straight fluted type and also some square section splined ones, I think they are probably my favourite. However, what I have been using in recent years is simply a set of Torx bits, work like magic and are already socket mounted and there's always a full set and the right size on hand when you need them.
(https://www.kittstools.com/media/products/ss_size1/SK84213.jpg)
Belt one of these in the depth of the screw/bolt having drilled the right size hole and you'll rotate the bike before it let's go.
Noel
What brand are they Noel ? I have a couple of Torx sets and an adaptor to fit my 3/8" drive socket set, but have shied away from getting a full set because I wasn't sure about the quality (and didn't want to pay Snap On prices). Gotta agree though, they're great for removing Allen head bolts when their key sockets have been butchered over time.
Quote from: Millietant on July 19, 2019, 09:04:07 AM
What brand are they Noel ? I have a couple of Torx sets and an adaptor to fit my 3/8" drive socket set, but have shied away from getting a full set because I wasn't sure about the quality (and didn't want to pay Snap On prices). Gotta agree though, they're great for removing Allen head bolts when their key sockets have been butchered over time.
4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant. I have many sets of Torx bits, one travels on the BMW, one in my work vehicle, one in the workshop, one is of large sizes and there are bits and pieces of other sets all over.
Unfortunately I can't tell you what any of the brands are. As a tradesman I've always invested in quality tools (my first tool kit as an apprentice cost 4/
1/2 months pay) but cheaper tools have just kept getting better, particularly if not used in a workshop environment. Depends what the tool is and the need for accuracy, strength or longevity. I am constantly surprised at the punishing some of my recent cheap tools take without showing any wear or damage.
I actually use these as easy-outs, drill the hole, belt it in, unscrew it, not just Allen heads. No need to shy away from buying a set, they're not expensive. At Snap On prices though, it would be cheaper to throw the bike away than buy special tools from them to fix it.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 19, 2019, 10:11:49 AM
4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.
It's Dean. His name is right in his description
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 19, 2019, 10:24:50 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 19, 2019, 10:11:49 AM
4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.
It's Dean. His name is right in his description
Well, thanks for pointing that out young fella, I'll look more closely in future.
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on July 20, 2019, 06:57:02 AM
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 19, 2019, 10:24:50 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 19, 2019, 10:11:49 AM
4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.
It's Dean. His name is right in his description
Well, thanks for pointing that out young fella, I'll look more closely in future.
Noel
Thanks for the info Noel - I never thought I'd use them enough to justify Snap On prices, but now that I'm retired and doing odd jobs on family and friends' cars and bikes, I think I'll invest in a good quality set. :good2:
Quentin. :sarcastic:
i got the stuck bar ends off with a pipe wrench, did not damage it much, however, the threads , while not cross threaded are a little fat from corrosion?
anyone know the size of the threads on it? it need to clean her up
A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill
Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.
They are M16x1.5 I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.
Quote from: T Legg on August 07, 2019, 01:41:39 AM
They are M16x1.5 I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.
thank you for that, my new to me bars, are ok with the internal threads, it's the weighted bar end
Quote from: fj-f3a on August 07, 2019, 12:23:24 AM
Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.
thanks for the file idea
Quote from: CutterBill on August 07, 2019, 12:11:34 AM
A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill
yes i checked, that tap and die even at harbor fright is high
MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.
Dan
Quote from: 56 CHEVY on August 07, 2019, 11:47:23 AM
MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.
Dan
thank you , i need a die or i will try a well placed emery-cloth, the bar end is not show piece, but it would be nice to have it screw in all the way...i wouldn't want to make you go thru all of this, gona try to wing it for now and thanks again
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
I used this die, and it worked amazingly to clean my threads. Same as Chevy, ill send it to you to use as long as you send it back!
Quote from: ryanschoebel on August 07, 2019, 02:43:35 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
I used this die, and it worked amazingly to clean my threads. Same as Chevy, ill send it to you to use as long as you send it back!
thanks Ryan, I used a bunch of any files i had and went to town,steel brushed everything with wd40, and greased it up for a few trial fits and when it went in all the way by hand, it was done, and the marring from the pipe wrench i could even live with! FREE!!!! outside of anyone sending me tools( thanks a bunch for all those that offered!)
gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations
this forum is a cool place for FJ's!
Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40. The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.
Quote from: mtc on August 08, 2019, 05:34:39 PM...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...
Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill
When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration. Just made a mess of the garage floor. Vibration is a frequency issue. Dampen the specific frequency and all is good. Knowing that specific frequency is the key. This is why some buildings survive earthquakes and the one next to it collapses.
Quote from: CutterBill on August 11, 2019, 01:10:43 PM
Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40. The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.
Quote from: mtc on August 08, 2019, 05:34:39 PM...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...
Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill
oh they sell a lot of that wd40 so i figured it must be good ( for something) , i just used it to wire-brushed the threads and wiped it off,
then i slathered black wheel grease on it, i didn't think i wanted to use up all my anti seize if the metals were similar and didn't fuse/weld together, unlike a spark-plug vs aluminum head mating surface
that make sense, the jiggling will bugger the threads, how about i dampen the weighted end by putting some foam/rubber between the barend and the bar, it will dampen the movement , but won't rattle freely?
WD40 is good stuff .....for cleaning up a greasy mess. It's mostly kerosene....expensive kerosene at that.
Quote from: CutterBill on August 11, 2019, 01:10:43 PM
Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40. The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.
Good luck trying to get that message across, I've been preaching it for 50 years. It makes a good handyman penetrant and
Water
Displacement product but even the need for that these days is rare, and that's it.
WD40 mostly evaporates leaving a residue that has no real lubricating qualities.
If anyone tells you of another use for it, there is always something that will do it better and cheaper.
To this day it makes me laugh when I recall the CRC (same as WD40) rep in the late 60's, in an age before electrical safety switches were even heard of this guy would come into the workshop, fill a bucket with water, have someone hand him a leadlight (240v with a household globe), spray it with CRC and plunge his hand into the bucket of water with the light switched on, all this to sell a can of product that back then cost less than a dollar. We only ever used it for wet ignitions so a can lasted a long time.
If the WD40 knock off had failed, or he'd missed a bit, he'd be dead. I've never forgotten that this bloke would risk his life many times a day just to make a commission on an item that cost less than a dollar.
Noel
Quote from: Motofun on August 12, 2019, 05:36:34 AM
WD40 is good stuff .....for cleaning up a greasy mess. It's mostly kerosene....expensive kerosene at that.
If you've got a compressor, get one of these, a kero gun.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EtoAAOSw4CFY21CC/s-l300.jpg)
The kero is blasted out at 120+psi and the nozzle is adjustable.
Noel
About the only thing I use WD 40 for is a starting fluid. Works great and is better and safer than ether
Quote from: big r on August 12, 2019, 08:31:40 AM
....and is better and safer than ether
...but that's what makes ether so good :biggrin:
Noel
Quote from: mtc on August 11, 2019, 10:15:50 PM...how about i dampen the weighted end by putting some foam/rubber between the barend and the bar, it will dampen the movement , but won't rattle freely?
You're missing the point. You want the bar end to be
rigidly attached to the handlebar. You are changing the weight of the bar and therefore, the frequency at which it will vibrate. Ideally, you would
weld the bar end to the handlebar (but then you couldn't get the grips off.) You can't have
any movement
at all between the bar and bar ends.
Apply anti-seize or your black grease (which I assume is moly grease, yes?) to the threads and
tighten the bar ends. Sorry, I haven't found my bar ends that I modified with an external hex. They're around here somewhere...
Bill
Quote from: CutterBill on August 11, 2019, 01:10:43 PM
Quote from: mtc on August 08, 2019, 05:34:39 PM...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...
Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill
RPM Handlebar End Set- Yamaha FJ (http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARPMbarend)
These are designed to absorb the frequency Bill is referring to.
(http://www.rpmracingca.com/prodimages/large/M%20C%20RPMbarend-3.jpg)
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 11, 2019, 04:06:03 PM
When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration....
That used to be the cure for the Kawi H1 or H2 2-stroke triples. :lol: Some good old buckshot in the bars, and the only thing you had to worry about after that was the spaghetti frame. :biggrin:
Quote from: PaulG on August 13, 2019, 09:23:50 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on August 11, 2019, 04:06:03 PM
When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration....
That used to be the cure for the Kawi H1 or H2 2-stroke triples. :lol: Some good old buckshot in the bars, and the only thing you had to worry about after that was the spaghetti frame. :biggrin:
and the wicked powerband kawi triples, rode my RD400 built by spec II, good nuff for a 2 stroke