Putting in new riser bars and right 8mm hex barend is seized

[mtc]

Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars...  

To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."

Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness.  




You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill

No my old Fj I had had came with bar end mirrors... my new one has stock weights /mirrors  I don't remember thinking it vibrated but with your explanation I would assume I'd notice it on back to back runs. Thanks for the education... I knew that had something to do along those lines.. I don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?

[mtc]

i think the vibrations has something to do with the clip-ons mounted directly to the fork tubes, lots of old bikes rubber mount tubular handlebars

[CutterBill]

I don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?

It's impossible to say in advance. Noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) is one of those black arts that are tended to by mad scientists toiling over boiling kettles, accelerometers and oscilloscopes. You will just have to install the new bars and see if they vibrate. If they do, you can experiment with clamping on bar ends of varying weights and see if they help. Welcome to the madness... 
Bill

[racerrad8]

RPM has a little counter weight inside i noticed and i think that jiggles counter to the vibrations, someone told me they help , but only a little

The RPM handlebar ends are designed around the tuned mass damper principle. They were designed based on the harmonic frequency of the FJ engine. The counter weight is inside the handlebar clip on and absorbing a significant amount of the vibrations. This becomes very apparent when you grab the bar end itself and feel the vibrations.

As far as the level of absorbation,  I am sure is varies due to many things such as Carb sync, motor mount condition,  chain and sprockets, etc.

After selling more than 200 sets of the original "vibranator" brand and now the improved RPM version, there is not a better handlebar end for your FJ.

Randy - RPM

[ryanschoebel]

With my getting new mirrors soon, I was wondering, do the vibranators help with mirror vibration at all?  Or is it more for comfort and shoulder fatigue?

[Dieselman7.3]

Thank you for clearing that up... sorry if I hi jacked this thread.

[aviationfred]

I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?

Here is the Superbike style handle bar kit that RPM offers. http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ASpieglerHandleBarKit

As in the photo, there are bar end weights. Like Bill mentioned, when modifying handle bars, you won't know how much vibration transfers until you get the handle bars on the bike and ride it.

HVMP makes some seriously heavy bar ends. I have used them on 2 of my FJ's that I used aftermarket clip on handle bars.

http://www.hvmp.com/Default.asp

Fred

[Dieselman7.3]

What are the clip one you used? Are they a different hieght or position? They look good   

[aviationfred]

What are the clip one you used? Are they a different hieght or position? They look good   

These are the handle bars that I have on my FJ. https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/product/3-inch-clip-on-riser-assembly

Mine are 50mm due to the USD forks. I believe the OEM FJ fork tubes are 41mm. I would measure to be sure.



Fred

[Dieselman7.3]

Thanks again

[ribbert]

Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors.  If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes.  Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out.  Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.

Words of wisdom from someone that obviously has experience with them. Don't just dump them, throw them away so you are not tempted to use them. There are many types of easy-outs but they all share the one flaw for the inexperienced user, the taper, it puts all the load in one place.
I have a set of those square section straight fluted type and also some square section splined ones, I think they are probably my favourite. However, what I have been using in recent years is simply a set of Torx bits, work like magic and are already socket mounted and there's always a full set and the right size on hand when you need them.



Belt one of these in the depth of the screw/bolt having drilled the right size hole and you'll rotate the bike before it let's go.

Noel

[Millietant]

Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors.  If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes.  Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out.  Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.

Words of wisdom from someone that obviously has experience with them. Don't just dump them, throw them away so you are not tempted to use them. There are many types of easy-outs but they all share the one flaw for the inexperienced user, the taper, it puts all the load in one place.
I have a set of those square section straight fluted type and also some square section splined ones, I think they are probably my favourite. However, what I have been using in recent years is simply a set of Torx bits, work like magic and are already socket mounted and there's always a full set and the right size on hand when you need them.



Belt one of these in the depth of the screw/bolt having drilled the right size hole and you'll rotate the bike before it let's go.

Noel

What brand are they Noel ?  I have a couple of Torx sets and an adaptor to fit my 3/8" drive socket set, but have shied away from getting a full set because I wasn't sure about the quality (and didn't want to pay Snap On prices). Gotta agree though, they're great for removing Allen head bolts when their key sockets have been butchered over time.

[ribbert]

What brand are they Noel ?  I have a couple of Torx sets and an adaptor to fit my 3/8" drive socket set, but have shied away from getting a full set because I wasn't sure about the quality (and didn't want to pay Snap On prices). Gotta agree though, they're great for removing Allen head bolts when their key sockets have been butchered over time.

4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant. I have many sets of Torx bits, one travels on the BMW, one in my work vehicle, one in the workshop, one is of large sizes and there are bits and pieces of other sets all over.

Unfortunately I can't tell you what any of the brands are. As a tradesman I've always invested in quality tools (my first tool kit as an apprentice cost 4/ 1/2 months pay) but cheaper tools have just kept getting better, particularly if not used in a workshop environment. Depends what the tool is and the need for accuracy, strength or longevity. I am constantly surprised at the punishing some of my recent cheap tools take without showing any wear or damage.

I actually use these as easy-outs, drill the hole, belt it in, unscrew it, not just Allen heads. No need to shy away from buying a set, they're not expensive. At Snap On prices though, it would be cheaper to throw the bike away than buy special tools from them to fix it.

Noel

[ryanschoebel]

4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.

It's Dean. His name is right in his description

[ribbert]

4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.

It's Dean. His name is right in his description

Well, thanks for pointing that out young fella, I'll look more closely in future.

Noel