Putting in new riser bars and right 8mm hex barend is seized

[Millietant]

4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.

It's Dean. His name is right in his description

Well, thanks for pointing that out young fella, I'll look more closely in future.

Noel

Thanks for the info Noel - I never thought I'd use them enough to justify Snap On prices, but now that I'm retired and doing odd jobs on family and friends' cars and bikes, I think I'll invest in a good quality set.

Quentin. 

[mtc]

i got the stuck bar ends off with a pipe wrench, did not damage it much, however, the threads , while not cross threaded are a little fat from corrosion?

anyone know the size of the threads on it? it need to clean her up

[CutterBill]

A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill

[fj-f3a]

Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.

[T Legg]

They are M16x1.5    I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.

[mtc]

They are M16x1.5    I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.

thank you for that,  my new to me bars, are ok with the internal threads, it's the weighted bar end

[mtc]

Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.

thanks for the file idea

[mtc]

A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill

yes i checked, that tap and die even at harbor fright is high

[56 CHEVY]

MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.

Dan

[mtc]

MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.

Dan

thank you , i need a die or i will try a well placed emery-cloth, the bar end is not show piece, but it would be nice to have it screw in all the way...i wouldn't want to make you go thru all of this, gona try to wing it for now and thanks again

[ryanschoebel]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used this die, and it worked amazingly to clean my threads. Same as Chevy, ill send it to you to use as long as you send it back!

[mtc]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used this die, and it worked amazingly to clean my threads. Same as Chevy, ill send it to you to use as long as you send it back!

thanks Ryan, I used a bunch of any files i had and went to town,steel brushed everything with wd40, and greased it up for a few trial fits and when it went in all the way by hand, it was done, and the marring from the pipe wrench i could even live with! FREE!!!! outside of anyone sending me tools( thanks a bunch for all those that offered!)

gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations


this forum is a cool place for FJ's!

[CutterBill]

Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40.  The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.

...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...

Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill

[FJmonkey]

When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration. Just made a mess of the garage floor. Vibration is a frequency issue. Dampen the specific frequency and all is good. Knowing that specific frequency is the key. This is why some buildings survive earthquakes and the one next to it collapses.

[mtc]

Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40.  The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.

...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...

Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill

oh they sell a lot of that wd40 so i figured it must be good ( for something) , i just used it to wire-brushed the threads and wiped it off,
then i slathered black  wheel grease on it, i didn't think i wanted to use up all my anti seize if  the metals were similar and didn't fuse/weld together, unlike a spark-plug vs aluminum head mating surface

that make sense, the jiggling will bugger the threads, how about i dampen the weighted end by putting some foam/rubber between the barend and the bar, it will dampen the movement , but won't rattle freely?