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Putting in new riser bars and right 8mm hex barend is seized

Started by mtc, July 17, 2019, 07:24:59 PM

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Millietant

Quote from: ribbert on July 20, 2019, 06:57:02 AM
Quote from: ryanschoebel on July 19, 2019, 10:24:50 AM
Quote from: ribbert on July 19, 2019, 10:11:49 AM
4 pages of recent posts failed to reveal a first name so it will have to be Millietant.

It's Dean. His name is right in his description

Well, thanks for pointing that out young fella, I'll look more closely in future.

Noel

Thanks for the info Noel - I never thought I'd use them enough to justify Snap On prices, but now that I'm retired and doing odd jobs on family and friends' cars and bikes, I think I'll invest in a good quality set. :good2:

Quentin.  :sarcastic:
Dean

'89 FJ 1200 3CV - owned from new.
'89 FJ 1200 3CV - no engine, tank, seat....parts bike for the future.
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - complete runner 2024 resto project
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - became a race bike, no longer with us.
'86 FJ 1200 1TX - sold to my boss to finance the '89 3CV I still own.

mtc

i got the stuck bar ends off with a pipe wrench, did not damage it much, however, the threads , while not cross threaded are a little fat from corrosion?

anyone know the size of the threads on it? it need to clean her up
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

CutterBill

A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill
Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old.

Current Stable:                                                     
FJ1100                                              
FJ1200 (4)
1999 Yamaha WR400 (street-legal)
2015 Super Tenere
2002 Honda Goldwing

fj-f3a

Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.
Wings Level

Current
1990 FJ1200, Wet Pale Brown
J17xMT5.5 rear wheel from a 2001 Kawasaki Zx9r
Stainless exhausts
Electronic cruise control
Custom seat
Yamaha R6 Blue Spot Callipers
FJR1300 Master Cylinder
Stainless brake lines

T Legg

They are M16x1.5    I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.
T Legg

mtc

Quote from: T Legg on August 07, 2019, 01:41:39 AM
They are M16x1.5    I think if you ran a bolt that size through with oil a few times it would clean out your threads.

thank you for that,  my new to me bars, are ok with the internal threads, it's the weighted bar end
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

mtc

Quote from: fj-f3a on August 07, 2019, 12:23:24 AM
Another good investment would be a Metric Thread File.
Cheep.
Eight different pitches on the one file.
Internal and external on the one file.


thanks for the file idea
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

mtc

Quote from: CutterBill on August 07, 2019, 12:11:34 AM
A tap and die for that size will be very expensive. Use a wire brush, the one the size of a toothbrush. Don't forget the threads inside the handlebar. If any of the external threads are buggered up, use a very small (jewelers file set) triangular file to clean up. Use anti-seize on the thread when you put it back together.
Bill


yes i checked, that tap and die even at harbor fright is high
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

56 CHEVY

MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.

Dan

mtc

Quote from: 56 CHEVY on August 07, 2019, 11:47:23 AM
MTC, Are you located in the US? If you are, I have a tap that I would send you if you promise to send it back to me.
PM me if you are interested.

Dan

thank you , i need a die or i will try a well placed emery-cloth, the bar end is not show piece, but it would be nice to have it screw in all the way...i wouldn't want to make you go thru all of this, gona try to wing it for now and thanks again
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

ryanschoebel

1985 FJ1100-- Atlas (SOLD)
1984 FJ1100-- Storm

mtc

Quote from: ryanschoebel on August 07, 2019, 02:43:35 PM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Irwin-6955-ZR-M16-X-1-5-Metric-1-4-Hex-Rethread-Die-16MM-Carbon-Steel-USA-RH/311209888820?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used this die, and it worked amazingly to clean my threads. Same as Chevy, ill send it to you to use as long as you send it back!


thanks Ryan, I used a bunch of any files i had and went to town,steel brushed everything with wd40, and greased it up for a few trial fits and when it went in all the way by hand, it was done, and the marring from the pipe wrench i could even live with! FREE!!!! outside of anyone sending me tools( thanks a bunch for all those that offered!)

gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations


this forum is a cool place for FJ's!
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire

CutterBill

Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40.  The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.
Quote from: mtc on August 08, 2019, 05:34:39 PM...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...
Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill
Never Slow Down, Never Grow Old.

Current Stable:                                                     
FJ1100                                              
FJ1200 (4)
1999 Yamaha WR400 (street-legal)
2015 Super Tenere
2002 Honda Goldwing

FJmonkey

When I took my bar ends off my 89 a boat load of steel BBs fell out (.177 I think from the copper color) . Guessing that was intended to help vibration. Just made a mess of the garage floor. Vibration is a frequency issue. Dampen the specific frequency and all is good. Knowing that specific frequency is the key. This is why some buildings survive earthquakes and the one next to it collapses.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

mtc

Quote from: CutterBill on August 11, 2019, 01:10:43 PM
Just a couple of comments...
First, stop using WD40. It's not good for anything. It's a lousy lubricant; it's a lousy penetrating oil; it's a lousy rust preventative. If you want to lubricate something, using oil. If you need a penetrating oil, buy one of the commercially available penetrating oils... Kroil, LPS LST (good stuff, that), PB blaster. Anything works better than WD40.  The ONLY thing that WD40 is good for is drilling deep holes in aluminum. Use proper anti-seize if you don't want threaded parts to weld themselves together. But seriously, WD40 is just awful stuff.
Quote from: mtc on August 08, 2019, 05:34:39 PM...gona leave it loose a few turns to see if the jiggling will dampen vibrations...
Nope. It won't. See my dissertation on resonant frequency of the handlebars on page 3. Leaving the bar ends loose will only ruin the threads from the constant movement.
Bill

oh they sell a lot of that wd40 so i figured it must be good ( for something) , i just used it to wire-brushed the threads and wiped it off,
then i slathered black  wheel grease on it, i didn't think i wanted to use up all my anti seize if  the metals were similar and didn't fuse/weld together, unlike a spark-plug vs aluminum head mating surface

that make sense, the jiggling will bugger the threads, how about i dampen the weighted end by putting some foam/rubber between the barend and the bar, it will dampen the movement , but won't rattle freely?
Current
1985 FJ1100

Previous Bikes
1979 Yamaha XS1100 best one
1984 FJ1100
1987 FZR600
1987 Fazer
1985 Vision
1982 Seca 750
1978 RD400 Spec II Motor

Live Life Wrong and Perspire