Putting in new riser bars and right 8mm hex barend is seized

[ZOA NOM]

Yeah, you'd have to disconnect the throttle cables and the brake master.

[T Legg]

I see bar end sets for twenty bucks all over e-bay.or up grade to weighted ends from rpm.just get out the pipe wrench and do it.

[mtc]

I see bar end sets for twenty bucks all over e-bay.or up grade to weighted ends from rpm.just get out the pipe wrench and do it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motorcycle-Anti-Vibration-Handle-for-Kawasaki-KTM-Bar-End-Plug-Grip-End-Caps/192168289614?fits=Model%3AFJ1100&hash=item2cbe1f654e:m:m44gwNSS2hOjh1fVEGWZHPA

so are these supported by a rubber hose and the weighted portion can bounce slightly to oscillate counter to the vibrations?, should i try them they are cheap,

RPM has a little counter weight inside i noticed and i think that jiggles counter to the vibrations, someone told me they help , but only a little

[Pat Conlon]

Weigh your FJ's oem bar ends...
If you get an aftermarket bar end, at least get one that has the same weight as your oem bar end..
There is a reason the engineers at Yamaha designed the bar ends the way they did..

Yes, the RPM Vibranators work to reduce the high frequency vibes and they are designed to include the oem FJ bar end.

[ryanschoebel]

Weigh your FJ's oem bar ends...
If you get an aftermarket bar end, at least get one that has the same weight as your oem bar end..
There is a reason the engineers at Yamaha designed the bar ends the way they did..

Yes, the RPM Vibranators work to reduce the high frequency vibes and they are designed to include the oem FJ bar end.

+1. Those are 60 grams, which is like 2.1 ounces. Ive weighed the bar ends before, and OEM is like 13 ounces.

[CutterBill]

How to remove seized bar ends:
Unfortunately, that little internal hex isn't big enough to get any real torque on the bar end. All you will do is round-out the internal hex. Absolutely do not use an Easy-Out or similar device. As mentioned they are very brittle and will snap with any amount of torque applied to them.

So when I was faced with the same problem, I just used a large pipe wrench and broke it loose. Try to do it in "one-shot"; don't let the pipe wrench slip and chew up the bar end any more than is necessary. Then I chucked the bar ends into my lathe and smoothed off the wrench marks with a file. While I had it in the lathe, I drilled out the buggered internal hex to a convenient size that would get down to clean, non-rusty metal. With that done, I removed the bar-ends, welded up the hole I just made, reinstalled into the lathe and turned the welds smooth. So at this point the bar ends are smooth and have no internal hex at all...

Then I moved the bar ends to my vertical mill, and milled an external hex on the very end (of the bar end.) I don't remember right now what size it was; probably either a 17 or 19mm hex.  The surface of the hex wasn't very deep, about 1/4" or so. Then I painted the ends gloss black. When finished, it was barely noticeable and looked stock. I'll try to take a photo in a few days.

Make sure you clean all of the rust from the threads (inside and outside) and reinstall the bar ends with anti-seize on the threads.
Bill

[mtc]

How to remove seized bar ends:
Unfortunately, that little internal hex isn't big enough to get any real torque on the bar end. All you will do is round-out the internal hex. Absolutely do not use an Easy-Out or similar device. As mentioned they are very brittle and will snap with any amount of torque applied to them.

So when I was faced with the same problem, I just used a large pipe wrench and broke it loose. Try to do it in "one-shot"; don't let the pipe wrench slip and chew up the bar end any more than is necessary. Then I chucked the bar ends into my lathe and smoothed off the wrench marks with a file. While I had it in the lathe, I drilled out the buggered internal hex to a convenient size that would get down to clean, non-rusty metal. With that done, I removed the bar-ends, welded up the hole I just made, reinstalled into the lathe and turned the welds smooth. So at this point the bar ends are smooth and have no internal hex at all...

Then I moved the bar ends to my vertical mill, and milled an external hex on the very end (of the bar end.) I don't remember right now what size it was; probably either a 17 or 19mm hex.  The surface of the hex wasn't very deep, about 1/4" or so. Then I painted the ends gloss black. When finished, it was barely noticeable and looked stock. I'll try to take a photo in a few days.

Make sure you clean all of the rust from the threads (inside and outside) and reinstall the bar ends with anti-seize on the threads.
Bill

i can't even find my pipe wrench and you are talking about lathes and welding ha ha ha ha, those skills i do not have at all

i am going to harbor freight buy me a $6.99 wrench with a 20% off coupon, file the teeth marks, and grease the thread after i clean them and use the wrench every time to get them off or leave 'em on hand tight and maybe they will jiggle a little so the vibrations will lessen

and

hope they don't fall out and kill someone behind me...oops

when i had my xs1100 no vibrations whatsoever... and it must be my imagination but i think the XS have more low end grunt, but on paper the FJ rules, i miss my XS

[ribbert]

As has been said, using those spiral, fluted, tapered extractors is usually the last thing you do before taking it to someone else to now remove both the screw and the extractor. It has been my great misfortune, in this regard, to spend much of my working life as that guy. At least in this instance it is only a handle bar, not an engine block etc.

Those style easy outs should only be used to gain purchase where a bolt or screw head has sheared off when tightening or where a butchered head won't allow a spanner or screwdriver to grab, not when it has sheared off trying to loosen it because it is seized.

Anyway, to the job at hand. Heat and percussion are not suitable for this application, that leaves leverage and purchase.

Believe it or not, this technique was formally taught to us in trade school, leather. If the surface is clean (not oily or greasy) and the leather is dry and the right thickness and texture, it is amazing how much force you can apply without slipping and without damaging the finish.



This was on Doug's (The General) XS outfit, being the last one I did that wanted to be ornery.

A handle bar in situ is a bit springy for belting it with something "sharp" to work but if all else fails, remove it from the bike and put in a vice, then whack it!

Noel

[ribbert]

.....I should have added, if that doesn't work for you, go with Cutter Bills plan, pipe wrench directly onto the bar end and clean it up afterwards (or buy a new one). Under no circumstances drill it and use a screw extractor.

Noel

[Motofun]

Dump those reverse spiral screw extractors.  If you must use a screw extractor try the ones that are square in cross section that have 4 sharp flutes.  Drill the appropriate size hole, lightly tap in the extractor and CAREFULLY try torquing it out.  Not perfect but 3 times better than the spiral types.

[CutterBill]

i can't even find my pipe wrench and you are talking about lathes and welding ha ha ha ha, those skills i do not have at all...

MTC... I understand that not everyone has a machine shop in their back yard.  You don't give your location (a pox on you who do not...) but if you send me your bar ends, I will modify them for you.
Bill

[Dieselman7.3]

Maybe a dumb question but what exactly do the weights do?  Do you need them? My last Fj didn't have any (I bought it with bar end mirrors) I don't remember it having any vibrations so to speak

[CutterBill]

Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars... 

To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."

Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness.   

You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill

[ZOA NOM]

My bad regarding the easy-out. I was confused by the first pic posted by OP. I thought he was trying to remove the master. I switched my advice once I figured it out.  

[Dieselman7.3]

Dieselman... technically speaking, the bar end weights change the resonant frequency of the handlebars... 

To explain... the handlebars are like a tuning fork; if you excite them with the proper frequency, they will vibrate at that frequency. That is the resonant frequency of the bars. Let's just make up a number and say the resonant frequency of the handlebars is 2000Hz. That means when the engine hits some RPM that produces a vibration at 2000/second, the bars will vibrate like a tuning fork. We feel that as a "buzz."

Adding weights to the end of a vibrating bar drives that resonant frequency lower. So now instead of vibrating at 2000Hz, the bars might vibrate at 100Hz. And ideally, the engine doesn't produce a vibration that low, so the bars would not vibrate. It's all about smoothness.   

You say that your FJ doesn't have bar end weights and you don't feel any vibration. I suspect if you made back-to-back runs, with and without bar ends, you would notice a difference.
Bill

No my old Fj I had had came with bar end mirrors... my new one has stock weights /mirrors  I don't remember thinking it vibrated but with your explanation I would assume I'd notice it on back to back runs. Thanks for the education... I knew that had something to do along those lines.. I don't want to risk having dearth wobble at all and I'm planning on going to a single piece handlebar (ie the superbike bar style) should I have weights for them?