Removed her heart...

[Mark Olson]

Are you happy with the out come or do you have more mods in mind?

I am delighted for now and still learning what I have here exactly.  I was initially concerned that I wouldn't have enough brakes after this engine was on full boil, but I rode pretty hard yesterday and I can bring the speed down quite nicely with 1 finger.  Good to go there.

I should be happy for some time anyway, but never say never to more mods... 

Frank

yeah, I remember andy f. getting me on video saying no more mods I was gonna stop and draw my line in the sand ..... well the tide came in and washed that line away.

you need a chin faring on that bike to enhance it's looks.

[Antonn3]

Hi Frank, what did you use for the rear set pegs?
Can you post some close up pics of the pegs from both sides, especially the right side showing the exhaust attachment?
Also, a pic showing the pegs from the back ?

Thanks
Tony

[Flynt]

Can you post some close up pics of the pegs from both sides

Not really very close, but you get the idea.  The hangers and pegs are early R1.  The subframe has been modified to have welded on mounts for them and the right side is the exhaust hanger for the single side R1 exhaust.  





Here are some pics from before the heart came out...





You can clearly see how the stock side plates are cut away to just what's needed for the front pegs and rear brake components.

Frank

[FJmonkey]

Damn it Frank.... I don't have that kind of money.. But I want it sooooo bad.... Looking forward to the WCR, I will try not to snore too much, do you think they have any primates in the petting zoo? 

[andyoutandabout]

Mark, I remember that roadside stop well and how we all nearly fell into another dimension as Mr Olson delivered his 'never to be heard again' statement. Which, incidentally he immediately retracted as clouds began to gather signaling the approach of those apocalyptic horse men.
Luckily we outran them on Salmon Falls road.

[Mark Olson]

Mark, I remember that roadside stop well and how we all nearly fell into another dimension as Mr Olson delivered his 'never to be heard again' statement. Which, incidentally he immediately retracted as clouds began to gather signaling the approach of those apocalyptic horse men.
Luckily we outran them on Salmon Falls road.

I know it was wrong when I said it..... denial is not just a river in Egypt. 

[Flynt]

OK, so here's the graph finally...  never did fix scanner.



and the data again:
RPM     Hp     Tq      Hp - "stock +"    delta Hp   % over stock
3000   23.2    40.7        25.3              -2.1   -8.30%
4000   40.9    53.7        44.3              -3.4   -7.67%
5000   57.2    60.1        54.7               2.5    4.57%
6000   86.5    75.6        72.3              14.2   19.64%
7000   106.9   80.3        84.9               22      25.91%
8000   119.3   78.3        94.8              24.5   25.84%
9000   128.3   74.9        97.5              30.8   31.59%
9500   130      71.9        94.9              35.1   36.99%

"stock +" is a stock FJ with an exhaust.  Bear in mind these are Factory Pro Dyno (Eddy Current type) numbers, so comparison to Dynojet is not a simple task.  Looking at it relative to a nicely tuned Mikuni based stock engine (the "stock +" bike was there for tuning, so presumably this was already a solid FJ) gives an objective baseline.

The Wizard is just a delightful bike that runs like a hose...  It feels so unconstrained in the high RPM range compared to before (with pods and Akra exhaust).  A nearly 40% increase in HP for a 161/1188 or ~15% increase in displacement!  Great job Randy!

Frank

[JMR]

 I just dynoed my 1314 today (on a non happy Dynojet unit). Actual (noncorrected) RWHP 156.7 with 93.2 torque. My stock gen 1 busa produced basically the same #'s. The only work I didn't perform on the engine was cylinder boring, milling/decking, valve job and trans undercutting. The air was so good the Correction Factor was negative which resulted in slighty less corrected RWHP than actual RWHP. Doesn't happen that often.

[JMR]

OK.....how about a pic of the chart? Pick and choose around here.

[Pat Conlon]

Mike, I'd love to see it....can I help?

[Flynt]

OK.....how about a pic of the chart? Pick and choose around here.

Are you asking for a pic of my dyno sheets...  never thought of it, but I'd think it would be pretty poor quality.  I'll try it though...

The table I gave had only 1 interpolation point though, the values were printed right on the dyno sheet.  I had to calculate one of the points for some reason...  I'll remember shortly.

Frank

[Flynt]

OK.....how about a pic of the chart?

Here's what the dyno sheets look like:



Here's Wizard's Hp/Tq and some AFR proxy with no scale (looks like it is CO):



Here's Wizard compared to two 1188cc FJ's with pipe and tune (blue and green are different FJs)



Here's the table I used to make my graph...




I thought my Excel graph was accurate enough, but porn quality was low admittedly.  Now you can see the stains from my excessive handling for yourselves...

Sorry I didn't think of the pics...   

Frank

[JMR]

OK.....how about a pic of the chart? Pick and choose around here.

[Flynt]

Others might want to chime in, but these graphs don't look very healthy to me.  The big drop at 4K must be a real bitch as well, that's typically where you're rolling on out of a corner (if you ride like me I guess) and just where you don't want the bike to go limp.  AFR curve tells you you've gone totally lean there and that's not good for the engine at all!  Then you go rich over the next 2000 RPM and it looks like the bike struggles to get into the power.  This is likely the transition from pilots to main jets (maybe Randy can suggest some changes).  

The peak Hp looks solid though...  good AFR, so you're probably getting about all there is to get (more timing might give you a bit more Hp, but not much).  I'd say you are flow limited above about 8,500 RPM which is one of the really big advantages of Randy's build...  my motor is still flowing more when the throttle is cut at 9,400 RPM (my instructions were 9,500 RPM max for tuning).  39mm FCR Carbs, big valves, port matching, port polishing, and bigger cam in action...

All-in-all it looks like you could benefit from some tuning, especially in low end drivability.  Ideally you want a pretty flat AFR, maybe a bit rich in the lower range to prevent detonation. Once that curve is flat you can fiddle with timing to optimize Hp while avoiding detonation.

Thanks for posting...  I love this stuff.

Frank

PS - Very nice looking bike!

[JMR]

 The engine has OS intakes/exhaust, Web 81-221 cams, porting, intake seats bored to 90% of valve OD etc etc. It also has FCR 39's. One of the problems with the initial leanness is the sudden loss of vacuum when whacking the throttle wide open at low RPM's. Low vacuum makes it difficult to get fuel moving through any circuit. That and the shitty accelerator pump that comes with FCR's with extremely limited starting point and duration adjustments. You see the lean go to rich as the pump dumps raw fuel into the engine....it starts to clear its throat about 6000. This is very, very typical on smoothbore carbs and is known as the "RS dip" from Mikuni fame. I have run 36's 38's and 40's and always seen this on the dyno with this bike and many others. I would adjust the pump start time and really limit the duration to reduce the injection of raw fuel....it smoothed it out but still it was there. It also eliminated the initial leanness. The FCR pump is very limited IMO in both of these areas. The Mikuni TMR pump is the best I have seen but it should be as they are a much more recent design over the 25 year old FCR's and RS's. As an aside...try working with CR's with no accelerator pump. Anyway...the FCR pump can be made to start earlier to a degree which will help. On the road I seldom go WO @ 3500RPM.....in general the throttle is rolled on which eliminates the problem with sudden vacuum loss. There is no bogging going on anywhere to be honest. I found the slight dip @ 8,000 interesting....I believe it was the clutch starting to let go a bit or wheelspin ( which there were some problems with).
The pilot air screws can be turned out about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn based on idling AF and the needle dropped a notch or maybe .020.
I wouldn't say it is flow limited above 8500...cam timing is the ubiquitous Yoshimura 105/105. I could move it 106/108 which would add some to the top and give more of a peak. The big thing is it is making well over 150 HP at around 8500 and holding it to about 10,500....there is no drop off at all. I see this all the time with the old CB750's and CB550's as it is a single cam that does not allow for seperate intake and exhaust cam timing.
I find the Factory 997 charts interesting as it plots point to point over 1000 RPM intervals apparently with a lot of smoothing. I wonder what a chart would look like with a lousy chain etc. It is very noticeable on the Dynojet chart with a large saw tooth pattern.
I have charts from my Hayabusa and RC51 that are flat lined secondary to FI. Carbs work OK but there is always some kind of compromise...at least that is what I have found over the last 35 years.
I looked around for the difference between Dynojet and 997 #'s....I found 15% reported by Sport Rider in an article printed some years ago.
Thanks for the compliment on the bike...you should see my 1000cc 75 CB750F. You FJ is very nice as well...always liked Akra pipes as I have installed quite a few.