Bryan's 1989 FJ1200 rebirth in Poplar Grove, IL

[Pat Conlon]

Bryan, for emission reasons the USA FJ's were factory jetted lean with the #37.5 pilot jets.
Those small jets seem to clog easily, especially on gravity flow FJ's. Remember, you are dealing with a 35 year old tank without the benefit of a proper fuel filter.

Perhaps it's time to spend $25 for some new #40 or #42.5  pilot jets?
The slightly larger openings seem to be more resistant to clogging.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3APilotjet

[Waiex191]

Bryan, for emission reasons the USA FJ's were factory jetted lean with the #37.5 pilot jets.
Those small jets seem to clog easily, especially on gravity flow FJ's. Remember, you are dealing with a 35 year old tank without the benefit of a proper fuel filter.

Perhaps it's time to spend $25 for some new #40 or #42.5  pilot jets?
The slightly larger openings seem to be more resistant to clogging.
http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3APilotjet

Thanks Pat!  I wish I knew that before.

What is improper about the OEM fuel filter?

[Pat Conlon]

Oooops sorry, my mistake, I had your bike mixed up with an '85...
I see now you have an '89 fuel pumper with a "proper" fuel filter.

I was referring to the earlier FJ's that don't have the benefit of a fuel pump or a "proper" fuel filter. Those FJ's are gravity flow and just have a sediment screen on the petcock. Marginally effective at best.
Your fuel pump/filter system is much better at stopping the crud from reaching your carbs and the pilot jets, which seem to the the first stop for the fuel tank crud.

Still....you have the small lean #37.5 pilots. Other than in the USA, I think all the other unrestricted FJ's sold thru out the world, had richer #42.5 pilot jets.

Sorry for the cornfusion.....

[Waiex191]

I think we can close out this rebirth thread.  I put the airbox back on, balanced the carbs with the gauges first then my ATF manometer after.  I ended up turning out the bleed air jets a few turns and had to turn the idle down.  Whoever designed that idle adjustment is a sadist. I only got a few burns.  Here is it running after those adjustments:
https://youtu.be/UUODLvq7Szk

I put a petcock as a disconnect for my new fuel lines & pump.  The brass fittings really bite into the fuel line and are hard to remove.


Rode it about 40 miles.  Smooth, powerful off the line, idles great. Runs like an FJ.


Thanks to all for the help and encouragement, not to mention the parts from RPM and woodcreerkpete's carbs.

[ribbert]

.... Whoever designed that idle adjustment is a sadist. I only got a few burns. 

Glad to hear it's all sorted and running well. For future reference, if you crack the throttle slightly it will lift the idle adjusting screw off it's seat, making it easier to turn. As for the burnt hands, you get better at it with practice but a gloved hand is always the better option.

Now, ride and enjoy.

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

There are notches on the idle nut that fit a long shank flat blade screwdriver quite nicely.
Reaching in from the right side (throttle side)  push on the rear side of the nut = idle goes down, front side = idle goes up.

[T Legg]

There are notches on the idle nut that fit a long shank flat blade screwdriver quite nicely.
Reaching in from the right side (throttle side)  push on the rear side of the nut = idle goes down, front side = idle goes up.

I bet you eat pizza with a fork Pat   That's how I have to adjust the fuel screws on my rs carbs.

[Pat Conlon]

 

[ribbert]

...That's how I have to adjust the fuel screws on my rs carbs.

Travis, you know they make a low profile 90 degree 1/4" drive for that?

Motion Pro make one at $165. It costs that much because it's a "carby" tool.



The same thing can be bought as a general tool for a quarter of that or you can use what I do, a $7 / 90 degree 1/4" drive elbow (below).



Noel

[T Legg]

Thanks Noel. I've heard rumours of their existence but I hadn't actually seen one. That tool would pay for itself.I'll check it out next time I get access to a real computer (most of our motorcycle shops have poor tool selections). I have made index marks on my fuel screws and carb body's to keep track of where they are set but it would be nice if the tool has a one to one turning ratio between the knob and the bit.

[ribbert]

.... I have made index marks on my fuel screws and carb body's to keep track of where they are set but it would be nice if the tool has a one to one turning ratio between the knob and the bit.

As you can see Travis, it is 1:1 and the handle body and turning section are made in such a way and marked so turns can be easily measured by both eye and feel...




The handle has a detent ball which corresponds to the marked graduations. This can be removed, as shown below, for a continuous action if you wish to use it as a screw driver rather than an adjusting tool.



Noel

[racerrad8]

Travis, if you are looking for that tool, I can supply it. We used to stock it, but took ot out of stock because it wouldn't work for adjusting the idle knob of the FJ.

Let Robert know if you are interested.

Randy - RPM

[FJ1200W]

Travis, if you are looking for that tool, I can supply it. We used to stock it, but took it out of stock because it wouldn't work for adjusting the idle knob of the FJ.

Let Robert know if you are interested.

Randy - RPM

I'm not chuckling. OK fine I did a bit.

$74.99 should be about right -

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0229

50 inch pounds maximum - very light duty use.

I've not needed this for my FJ, but hey, tools are cools.



There is always the POS version



https://www.harborfreight.com/quick-release-hex-socket-extension-and-angled-bit-holder-96726.html

[ribbert]

....50 inch pounds maximum - very light duty use...

...There is always the POS version

You're right FJ1200W, they are light duty, this particular tool is not a general purpose 90 deg drive but a purpose made carby adjusting tool

I have a number of the POS variations, the most recent one (as pictured in your post) only cost $7 on eBay and has proven to be surprisingly robust and does the job. They are fine for general use but if I had a bike with carbs that needed constant fiddling, I might actually consider one of these, they tick all the boxes for features one would want with such a tool.

As a tradesman I am special tool averse unless it's absolutely necessary, which is not often, but this is a well designed tool for a single yet specialised job, I like it.






Randy, it would be easy to make an adapter that would grab the FJ idle thumbscrew but it seems a bit superfluous when it's so easily reached by hand.

Noel

[RPM - Robert]

Noel the adapters that come with the MP tool fit the idle adjustment screw itself. However, the height of the tool itself hits the case right below the idle adjustment screw and will not fit in between to adjust.