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Author Topic: Bryan's 1989 FJ1200 rebirth in Poplar Grove, IL  (Read 46351 times)
fj1289
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« Reply #150 on: July 04, 2020, 11:59:31 AM »

Do you have a laser thermometer? Checking exhaust header temps could pinpoint which cylinder it could be.

If you’re quick - the ole spit on a finger will work too!
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Pat Conlon
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« Reply #151 on: July 04, 2020, 01:35:09 PM »

...If you’re quick - the ole spit on a finger will work too!

^^^ Ouch (I’m a klutz) I dislike leaving a fingerprint on my polished SS header tubes..
 ....a squirt bottle works for me....
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1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don’t store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the ‘84-87 FJ’s:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3
Waiex191
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« Reply #152 on: July 04, 2020, 01:55:36 PM »

I borrowed an IR thermometer from a neighbor. Too hot out today for any more work.

The FZ1 brakes and lines are set up a bit different than the stock FJ. The line strain relief would not bolt up and grab the rubber grommet.  So, I hacked off the mount tab and used the reflector mount instead.


Here it is bolted up. 


Seems pretty good.  I haven't actually fixed my fender tabs yet. That is for another day.  We did go out and ride a little bit. My son on his V30 was suitability impressed with the acceleration of the FJ.  I topped off the tank and the fuel gauge works.  Great to be riding it again and I'm eager to sort out this idle issue.

And the FZ1 brakes - they seem pretty awesome.  I haven't done any maximum effort braking yet but they are there immediately and seem to have a lot of power for very little effort.  The old brakes, at their best, always seemed to be spongy and there was a lot of initial dead space in the lever pull.  It was like there was air in the system, but I've done a lot of brakes so I don't think so.
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
Pat Conlon
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« Reply #153 on: July 04, 2020, 02:47:05 PM »

Bryan, the brake line holder bracket should go *under* the fender tabs. It acts as a spacer to prevent the plastic fender tabs from squeezing in against the fork mounts.
When folks diligently remove their 30 year old rubber lines (hint) a common mistake is to remove these line holders....and broken fender tabs result.
We advise folks who upgrade their brake lines (hint) and who remove the brake line holder, to put a 1/8” stack of washers under the fender tabs to compensate for the removal of the brake line holder bracket.

Another thing which will save your fender tabs is an RPM fork brace. Look at the holes on your oem aluminum fender strap....do they look oval to you? At one time they were round....
So yes, those spindly 41mm stanchion tubes do deflect.

Cheers

Pat
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1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don’t store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the ‘84-87 FJ’s:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3
Waiex191
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« Reply #154 on: July 04, 2020, 03:56:53 PM »

Thanks Pat.  My tabs were busted already, not sure if due to age or my horrible movers.  So are the holders important at all?
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
Pat Conlon
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« Reply #155 on: July 04, 2020, 05:36:06 PM »

If you want reflectors...yes, otherwise, no.
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1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don’t store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the ‘84-87 FJ’s:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3
Waiex191
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« Reply #156 on: July 05, 2020, 09:16:11 PM »

I haven't done anything to the bike today but I'm making a carb synchronizer. Working fluid is some Dextron III I bought in high school and have been afraid to use because it's old.  The tops of the lines have restrictors. They are 1" long 1/4" OD fiberglass rods with a super small hole drilled down them. I'm not sure why they are not level. Either they lied to us in fluids or one of the restrictors has some blockage.
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
Waiex191
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« Reply #157 on: July 06, 2020, 12:21:02 PM »

My fluid columns evened up overnight. I am going to remake a couple of the restrictors as the exit hole was very near the edge.  I may go over and use the lathe and start with a spotting bit.

We just got back from a ride and at idle I used the IR thermometer on the pipes. Both 1 & 4 were about 180C. Numbers 2 and 3 were about 80C.  I'm slightly suspicious of the coil.  Any thoughts from the gang are welcome. 
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
ribbert
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« Reply #158 on: July 07, 2020, 07:13:07 AM »

My fluid columns evened up overnight. I am going to remake a couple of the restrictors as the exit hole was very near the edge. 

I think you're on the right track, the only reason I can think of for them not settling evenly and quickly is the restrictors are too small. Home made manometers are a bit of a black art, there appears to be no exact formula (excluding internet experts) for all the variables such as hose length, oil viscosity and restrictor size, all of which influence how accurate and how speedily it works. Then there's the ratio of fluid to air in the tubes, one being compressible and one not and ....... A bit of trial and error and you'll get near enough.

My own, which appears to be similar to yours and also uses auto fluid, has restrictors that are a short piece of solid plastic rod with a hole drilled through the centre. From memory, the hole is about 1-2 mm. Whatever it is, it could do with being a bit bigger or perhaps use a lower viscosity oil, it's a bit sluggish to register changes. Also, don't forget that if for any reason the oil reaches those restrictors, it will block them and manifold pressure is not enough to clear them. This is a good case for making the restrictors short, in fact as short as you can, it's the diameter that settles the pulsations, not the length (within reason). It's also a good reason to have the restrictors a reasonable height above the fluid, to allow for initial variance between the cylinders ( I think the forum has it's own term for that ) and not allowing the oil to reach them.

Another issue I have seen is hose kinking from engine heat, which gives misleading readings. To overcome this I fit a stiffer sheaths, a couple of inches long, over the hoses where they fit onto the carbs, to make sure they don't bend or collapse on themselves.

Once you've done this a few times it's a speedy affair, but if you're new to it and maybe take a while, it's not a bad idea to have a fan, the engine will get hot surprisingly quickly.

I know it is popular to just turn your tank around without disrupting the fuel lines (and providing fuel for the balance) but I like a quick fang around the block and then a recheck so I use an on board supply of about 500ml. If you have a fuel pump, you stick the hose through the top of the container, no need for a sealed outlet.

I used to have gauges but as it is only for my own bikes these days, it seems like an unnecessary expense for something used so rarely, the home made unit does a sterling job once you get it sorted.

Good luck with it all.

Noel
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Waiex191
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« Reply #159 on: July 07, 2020, 08:10:07 AM »

Noel,
I took my restrictors out and pushed my drill bit through the holes backwards.  I found some FOD in a couple of them.


My columns are now even and I'm ready to give it a try.  Back in the day my dad had bought a set of carb stix with the mercury columns.  They eventually became mine.  Those were awesome, until one day they failed and there was mercury all over the floor of the garage.  I suspect that if my setup is close enough I'll get through it quickly, as this isn't my first time. 
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
ribbert
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« Reply #160 on: July 07, 2020, 08:34:43 AM »

Noel,
I took my restrictors out and pushed my drill bit through the holes backwards.  I found some FOD in a couple of them.


Yep, that'll do it. 

Glad you're on the trail.

Noel
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"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you”
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« Reply #161 on: July 09, 2020, 08:56:51 PM »

So my #2 and #3 pilot jets were clogged.  I've done a test run with the airbox off.  It appears one slide is not sliding.
https://youtu.be/_rbLM2jMdls

I'm going to pop the top off #2 and see what it looks like.

It does seem to be idling better.
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
Waiex191
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« Reply #162 on: July 09, 2020, 09:16:41 PM »

Diaphragm looked good. I carefully reinstalled, turned the cover 90 degrees, and now #2 moves.
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
fj1289
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« Reply #163 on: July 09, 2020, 10:35:55 PM »

Excellent! 

Just gives another example of someone that knows their way around these carbs still has to go in more than once to get everything as clean as it needs to be.  At two times time in - that’s better than average! 

 drinks
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Waiex191
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« Reply #164 on: July 10, 2020, 07:25:28 AM »

Thanks fj1289!  I'm not going to declare it done until I ride it and it's good.  I was into my GN400 Mikuni 36mm carb about 6 times before I got it right.  I think a single carb 6 times is still less than a bank of 4 two times.  When I decided to get back to bikes that's why I started with the thumper.

Here is some documentation from the past few days.  I tried out my manometer.  I've nicknamed it the ATF ingestion and aeration equipment.  Here is one picture after using it.


I got frustrated enough that I borrowed a buddy's set of gauges.  These are old and are from England, as is my buddy.  Gauge #4 is a bit wonky.  I set the carbs, then flipped the gauge order around by moving hoses and set them again.  Seems close-ish.  I'll probably try the ATF ingestion and aeration equipment again when I work my courage up.


Because #2 and #3 were cold, I had a suspicion it was an ignition issue.  I decided to change the plugs.  The old ones were dirty but not horrible.  They look a little rich probably from using choke to compensate for the poor idle.


With the new plugs in, I used the old plugs to check for spark.  First 1 & 2, then 3 & 4.  Seemed ok.
https://youtu.be/3BySyhAGNmQ

When the #2 slide was not moving, I checked all 4 by hand and they seemed free.  #2 didn't seem to be making air sounds when I moved it though, but all the others did.  This is what it looked like when I took it out.


Here is a run after seating the diaphragm.
https://youtu.be/l_p7nUxwmDY

It seemed to be idling better, but still a little lean at idle.  Could be the missing airbox, could be it was a little cold, or maybe I have to adjust the idle air jets.  I'll put the airbox back on, using Ryan's miracle tool to set the rubbers, then see what I've got.
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Bryan
1989 FJ1200
1981 Suzuki GN400
Poplar Grove, IL
 
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