News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

FJ1300 with a European Twist

Started by aviationfred, November 25, 2015, 09:14:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

aviationfred

Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....

how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.

This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.

Noel

From my knowledge of Manufacturers recommendations on new bikes, Randy's at RPM and reading a number of methods on the web. Here is my plan to break this engine in.

I will start by using a top of the line 'Break-in' oil the 10W30 viscosity grade* and run the engine for 500 miles with a few (less than 6) hard acceleration runs after an initial 150 miles. Drain the oil and change the filter. Now repeat the same procedure still using the Break-in motor oil in the engine and run the engine 500 miles, avoiding long periods of constant high speed operation like traveling long distance on an interstate highway. Now drain the oil, change the oil filter and change this time to Dino 10W40 motor oil**. With the Dino oil, I will run 1000 miles at normal riding conditions. Normal city riding, 10 to 15 miles at a time freeway runs, (70-80mph). 20 to 30 mile country road runs, (55 to 65mph). After there is 2000 miles on the engine I will drain the oil change the filter. At this point I will go to a full synthetic and the engine is now ready for the full Kookaloo

* Break-in oil is used because it does not have friction modifiers added and is high in Zinc and Phosphorous. It helps to create the proper wear for ring seating and helps to suspend fine metal particals to be filtered out.

** Dino oil is used to maintain the fresh ring seal over the 1000 miles of use.

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

fj1289

Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....

Fred, now that you're almost there, how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.

This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.

Noel

And what oil you plan on using ...  :rofl:

aviationfred

Quote from: fj1289 on January 25, 2016, 09:35:28 AM
Quote from: ribbert on January 25, 2016, 04:52:02 AM
Quote from: aviationfred on January 24, 2016, 04:38:28 PM
The engine is now complete....

Fred, now that you're almost there, how about posting your proposed running in procedure and the reasons why.

This is a genuinely interesting subject and I promise I'll stay out of it.

Noel

And what oil you plan on using ...  :rofl:

I know everyone has there favorite brand. Rotella, Amsoil, Lucas, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc. etc.  :flag_of_truce:

For the Break-in oil, I will be using Royal Purple 10W30 Break-in oil. For the Dino Oil, I will be using Valvoline 10W40. For the synthetic, I will be using Royal Purple Max Cycle 10W40.

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

Pat Conlon

Re: Break in and ring seating:
The Ross Piston folks specify a couple of interesting things:
1) Before final assembly: Wash (scrub) the pistons and cylinder walls with hot water and soap.
2) Immediately brush on a Non Detergent oil and continue to use a non detergent oil until the rings have seated.

http://www.rosspistons.com/information/automotive_installation.pdf 
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

SkyFive

 I did something very similar to Randy's suggestion after I rebuilt my engine. I started out with Rotella, changed the oil twice in about 800 miles, now I have Mobil 1 motorcycle oil in it. I was getting very concerned because the engine would get so dam hot every time I rode it > like wanting to stall at idle hot! I took it on an extended 325 road trip during the summer and now it's doing much better. I surmise everything is getting seated and friction is decreasing.
I installed a Wiseco 1188 kit in a new XJR1200 cylinder block. I don't recall what the ring end gap was but I did not having to adjust it any at all, everything was right on. I used the phenolic piston pin buttons instead of the circlips provided by Wiseco.

nchattaway

Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).

4everFJ

Quote from: nchattaway on January 26, 2016, 01:40:12 AM
Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).

(popcorn)
1985 - Yamaha FJ1100 36Y
1978 - Yamaha SR500
1983 - Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
1977 - Kawasaki Z400 (sold)

aviationfred

Quote from: nchattaway on January 26, 2016, 01:40:12 AM
Without wanting to hijack Fred's engine rebuild, I note the switch to fully synthetic oil after the first 2000 miles. Would you recommend I switch my bike over to fully synthetic after 68,000km on unknown bike oil? I'm running a mineral motorcycle oil at present, not wanting to introduce any clutch slippage (it doesn't slip at all presently).


The key is to use motorcycle specific oil. Changing over to a full synthetic should not cause any issues with your clutch.


Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

aviationfred

Back to the build......  :dance2:

The engine is installed...... Starting to look like an FJ again. A phone call to Randy after about an hour of fighting the engine did the trick. Carburetors and throttle cables installed. Pods are on. Tomorrow is the day for first start up. First thing is to get all of the engine mounts torqued, install the Oil cooler lines, and exhaust, then the fun begins.


 

I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

racerrad8

Call me tomorrow before you try and fire it up.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

aviationfred

Quote from: racerrad8 on January 26, 2016, 11:58:53 PM
Call me tomorrow before you try and fire it up.

Randy - RPM


Once I finish up getting everything installed, I will give you a call.


Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

moparman70

Fred -- some good shots there --- I just had a thought on the clear case ---- what about etching Yamaha on the case mimicking where it would normally be on the standard cover.

Ya --- thats what its missing .....
     

FJ1200W

Quote from: aviationfred on January 26, 2016, 10:36:02 AM

The key is to use motorcycle specific oil. Changing over to a full synthetic should not cause any issues with your clutch.

Fred

I ended up with more than a case of Yamaha 20W-50 (15W-50?) Semi-Synthetic oil and for whatever reason, may of been timing, the clutch started slipping.

Since went back to 10W-40 "normal" oil - but not been able to fully test again......

Enjoying your write up, well done, may it run well!
Steve
Columbia, Missouri
USA

X-Ray

'94 FJ1200 Wet Pale Brown
'93 FJ1200 Dark Violet/Silver
'84 FJ1100 Red/White

'91 FJ1200 Dark Violet/Silver ( Now Sold)
'92 FJ1200 Project/Resto Dark Violet/Silver (Now Sold)






For photos of my rear wheel swap, heres the link  https://www.flickr.com/gp/150032671@N02/62k3KZ

aviationfred

I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2023 Moto Morini X-Cape 650
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1200 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Streetfighter
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor