I'm glad to hear you have it fixed.
 A good color coded complete wiring schematic really helps. I keep a copy of it in my tool pouch and a picture on my phone. The Yamaha owners manual that comes with the bike has a complete schematic but its point to point not set up like a ladder diaghram also very small and hard to see without a magnifying glass.

Quote from: Gearbox Paul on February 27, 2026, 09:49:52 AM

Quote from: T Legg on February 26, 2026, 01:45:37 PMIt could be a bad diode in the diode block #27 on the factory manual schematic.The kickstand relay contacts when closed ground out the ignition control and prevents the spark plugs from firing. When the kickstand is up it closes the switch and gives the kickstand relay coil a path to ground energizing the coil and causing the relay contacts to open up ungrounding the ignition module and allows spark. There is a second path to ground for the kickstand relay coil that goes through a diode to the nuetral switch to ground. If that diode goes out then the only way to ground for the kickstand relay is through the kickstand switch.

You may be onto something.  I'm looking through the wiring diagram and circuit diagram and if one of 2 the diodes that supply current to the neutral switch failed open (no current flow), it might explain what I am seeing.  I'll need to pull that diode block and test it with the wiring diagram.  Good thought.  I'm away from home at this time and returning in a week.  I'll report back. 

Resolved.  Got home last night and tore into that this morning. I pulled the diode block off the bike and tested both diodes that are connected to the neutral switch.  Sure enough, the diode between the Blue/Yellow wire and the Sky Blue wire had failed and had no current flow in either direction.  Other diode tested fine. I had some 1N4001 diodes at home from another project, so I bypassed the failded diode and spliced in a 1N4001 diode between the two wires.  Works as it should now.  Good call T Legg. 

I've got a old set of the RS flat slide, with the infamous sticky slides I guess.
They were set up for methanol and nitro, so I need to either adapt them for E85 or install the conversion back to gasoline, which I have, somewhere.....
I'm glad to hear these work well

Yes, i've also got a 17 x 3.5 front wheel and complete front end, including the 320mm discs,from a XJR1200 on my FJ.
The handling is great compared to the standard FJ set up, and i've also put the damping adjuster from the XJR1300 on the forks, which are 43mm compared to the FJ 41mm. Sorry about two photos but the second photo enlarges when clicked on.
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As you sit on the bike starting from the left they are 1,2,3,4 .
  It really doesnt matter though if you start from the left or right. One coil goes to the two outside plugs and the other goes to the two inside plugs. since its a wasted spark set up both 1&4  plugs fire at the same time and 2&3 also. The plugs fire on each cylinder on both compression and exhaust strokes.

I hate ask because I know it's in here somewhere I just can't find it, I searched both manuals and this forum and can't figure out how the spark plugs are numbered left to right. They come out of the coil as 1,4,2,3. Is that how the cylinders are numbered? Thanks

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 05, 2026, 10:24:24 AM

Quote from: MarioR on February 26, 2026, 09:35:52 AMAnyone install entire 87/88 FZR front end? Any benefits other than wheel and rotors? Does it fit?

No, there is no reason to install the front end of a 87/88 FZR1000 or 750, so no one has done it.
 The 87/88 FZR's use the same inferior damper rod forks, same flexy 41mm dia. fork tubes and 15mm axle as our oem FJ's.
They only redeeming value of the 87/88 FZR front end is the 17" x 3.5" rim, that's it...

If you do go to the trouble a front end swap *at the very least get cartridge forks* they are tunable and if you stay with conventional forks, get the stronger 42 or 43mm dia. fork tubes and stiffer 17mm dia. axle (along with a 3.5"x 17" front rim and 320mm rotors)

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks....

17" x 3.5" rim and 320mm rotors Pat

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks.... Agreed, got 750R USD fork already. Now looking for wheel and fender......

Quote from: MarioR on February 26, 2026, 09:35:52 AMAnyone install entire 87/88 FZR front end? Any benefits other than wheel and rotors? Does it fit?

No, there is no reason to install the front end of a 87/88 FZR1000 or 750, so no one has done it.
 The 87/88 FZR's use the same inferior damper rod forks, same flexy 41mm dia. fork tubes and 15mm axle as our oem FJ's.
They only redeeming value of the 87/88 FZR front end is the 17" x 3.5" rim, that's it...

If you do go to the trouble a front end swap *at the very least get cartridge forks* they are tunable and if you stay with conventional forks, get the stronger 42 or 43mm dia. fork tubes and stiffer 17mm dia. axle (along with a 3.5"x 17" front rim and 320mm rotors)

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks....

The lineup in front of the resort brings back fond memories of 2014.

Sounds like the good times continue.

Randy - RPM

The standard (gold) springs are perfect for the stock FJ engine.