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#1
IDK what RPM would charge if I took the heads off and mailed them to them to do the job but I'm confident I could take the heads off without issue, if RPM redid the heads for me then I would just need to figure out how to re-install them properly and set the cams/vales etc..... but I imagine that's a bit easier to do than replacing the seals myself?
#2
ok i see . I then i recommend you to get someone that has been doing some engine-work to help you if it turns out you will have to replace seals.
I can not take credit for the "trick" i found that on youtube.
Here is a vid from oldschool mechanic doing it ,but make sure you dont keep the metalrod down in the bore when turning the engine because then you may bend a valve !!. i like watching his other vids to after i got saved  :good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Oj6hNX0SyI
#3
Maintenance / Re: Front End Noise And Oil On...
Last post by Tom Nolan - Today at 11:47:43 AM
Aight, thanks!
#4
Wow this is very helpful to see thank you, I will have to read through this a few times to sink in, I'm mechanical but never did anything inside an engine so it's new territory for me
#5
Maintenance / Re: Front End Noise And Oil On...
Last post by JohnnyTheCraneGuy - Yesterday at 11:31:48 PM
I ended up ordering a seal mate tool like it was recommended. I haven't had a chance to mess with it since I've been focusing on the wiring at the moment. I was going to wait until I cleaned the seals and inspect after to research the parts and such.
#6
Maintenance / Re: Front End Noise And Oil On...
Last post by Tom Nolan - Yesterday at 10:42:14 AM
Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on December 22, 2024, 02:29:44 PMI wiped the forks and seals to get the oil off of and upon returning there was more oil present on the forks so I'm definitely going to have too attend to that soon.

I'll do some digging here and try to find previous posts, or start my own, related to changing the seals and what parts I should look for that are AEM. But if yall already know of some links please post them here as I will continue to check on this post. Again any help is appreciated!

Hey mate, did you figure out exactly which parts to order? Where did you eventually order? And did you find any previous posts?

I'm about to deal with this too, on my FJ1100.

All the best
#7
I did not find picks from when  replaced some seals with the engine in  bike dont think i filmed that =)
you can also use a valve spring compressor tool that fits at least on the exhaustvalves.(have done that too)
I have a video from when i did the same on another head i did some work on, but that is not with engine in bike.
It does not matter it is the same thing .Just remember to fill the bore with rope !! I took some still picks from that video and made a mini toturial.
#8
General Discussion / Re: Website-slow to load
Last post by Sparky84 - Yesterday at 04:34:59 AM
G'day Tibsy, I noticed it was an hour ago as it didn't seem to want to load but there is a massive thunderstorm here at present and thought that was the reason.

It's loaded now but still a lag, possibly carbs need cleaning
#9
General Discussion / Website-slow to load
Last post by Tibsy - Yesterday at 03:53:59 AM
Is it just me that finds the "website" and pages have slowed a lot recently !?
#10
I understand if the tires are rotten you can maybe check them for cracks in sidewall  they might be okay, but with hard rubber. I would try to ride it with the tires if they look okay and take it easy. anyway you can at least start checking the sparkplugs for oil.and test if it is a lot of blowby by opening the oil filler cap.
a usb mini snakecamera down in the bores will tell you more. if it is oil hanging from valve you know that a valvestemseal is blown. or you can losen the exhaust bend and look for oil .One other thing is that if a seal is blown it should start smoking very fast at startup from cold and smell oil.
it is possible to change the valvestemseal with the head in frame. i have done it. i just can not fint pictures of it now
.Basically you put rope down the bore and slowly rotate engine so the piston rises and push the rope up under the valves .
Then you use a 17-18 mm socket with a small magnet tool placed inside .Then you place the socket down on the
valve retainerplate and push down hard use glows. that will losen the valvekeepers and they stick to the magnet in the socket.
Then after you have replaced the seal and spings back  you place the valve keeper plate back and now comes the tricky part.
You then place the valvekeepers on the valvestem end so they sit losely in place on the upper side of the valve keeper plate jammed losely on the end of the valvestem .And then you use a clear solid
ziplock plastic bag and place it over the valve keeperplate and the valvekeepers. then you place the socket on top of that and push down hard .Almost like magic the valvekeepers are now in place .
it may take some tries but it works. i have done it.
i will se on my other pc if i can find some pick how to do it.
by the way it was cold outside when you had the bike running and that also make it smoke more .Check the smell of the smoke !.
anyway here are some pick of the cheep snake camera i got. I dont have pick from inside the bore of the fj but these are from a kawasaki that has run about 2000km after engine rebuild bored and honed.
I try to check my other pc tomorrow to find som pick from replacing a valvestemseal on the fj
while head is in frame