Hi All, just fitting Uni Filter pods set up from RPM. Can I expect reasonable operation without any tweaking ? I understand some adjustments would be required for optimal performance but just experiencing massive issues getting it to run at all. Runs on choke, does not want to run at all without choke. Last time I ran the bike was about 9 months ago with the stock airbox and it ran fine (but they are terrible design aren't they!) Stock FJ1100 17000km. Thanks People. . 

 

Nice looking bikes.
When i was a despatch rider in London UK one of the bikes i had was an FJ1100 done up in Marlboro paintwork.
The tank was all red, the side panels were white/black, the fairing was red/white, and all with the Marlboro logos here and there. I've never seen another 1100 like it since. I was the 14th owner and took it off the road at an indicated 139,000 miles, and i'm still using the original crankshaft in my XJR1200. I'd really like to see an original photo or photos of the bike, i never kept any unfortunately.
Anyone on here got any or any links.

I finished my FJ a couple of years ago (posted earlier) and it was supposed to be a two-fer.  My buddy dragged his feet on the FZR, but finally got around to it.  We powder coated the wheels at the same time and used paint from the same can for the bodywork. Question...  FJ with or without the Gimbel seat cowl?  I know it's huge but couldn't find another option. C'mon Springtime!!!

Use the reducer line fitting you can buy an any hardware store.

Do not buy eBay cheap fuel pumps.

The oem Yamaha pump and filter works fine with the reducer fitting.

Appreciate the information 86FJNJ and Robert, thank you!

Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on December 04, 2025, 09:15:42 PMLet's go!

I'm sure you're aware of it but its goes without saying, check your chain slack. You definitely don't want to be outside the range on either side with the amount of torque these bikes have. I myself like to ride on the looser side of the spec.  Chain and sprocket alignment too, just in case you weren't aware

Ride safe brother 

Thxs

You can use a 3/8 to 5/16 brass reducer to accomplish the reduction needed to go from 10mm to 5mm. Or you can get a pump off eBay that has 10mm inlet/outlets. Get a couple of them as they go out.

The Yamaha Mitsubishi pump that we sell is made for the single inlet tee on the fuel pump carbs at 5/6mm I don't have one handy to measure but it is roughly half the size of the dual 10mm inlets on the gravity feed carbs.

You can use the Mitsubishi pump with reducers or you can get a couple cheaper pumps with 10mm nipples.

Either will accomplish the same thing but the reducers will get you a superior pump Yamaha fuel pump.

I am using the RPM fuel pump on my 1986 that I converted from gravity fed to fuel pump. It works fine I have like 2,000 miles on it with no issues.

I can take pics tomorrow if that helps

I have a question about converting my 1985 FJ1100 from gravity flow to a fuel pump.  I am confused.

The carbs were sent to RPM to be converted and I ordered the fuel pump sold by RPM

Today Randy at RPM called to discuss work on my carbs, and the topics of what fuel pump is appropriate and what diameter fuel line to use came up. I understood from Randy that the RPM fuel pump is NOT suitable for the conversion and that a fuel pump with a larger diameter opening should be acquired as should larger diameter fuel line.  (I cancelled the pump sold by RPM as a result).

The two-part article on the fuel pump conversion specifically references using the RPM fuel pump and fuel line, which leads to my confusion. 

Can anyone help unconfuse me here?  Pat Conlon, Randy mentioned that you use a different pump than RPM's that has a larger diameter output.  Perhaps I missing something here, but I thought the fuel pump used a smaller diameter output than the gravity flow did.

Sorry to visit my confusion on y'all,

Steve