FJowners.com

  So after reading about all the Mods for the FJs ( mostly 1200s  :blum1: ) on diff wheels this is what I came up with !  Have a 04 R6 rear wheel and was hoping to run the wheel and swingarm . But the R6 swinger just need more Moding then what I wanted to do to the bike . So back on the went the stock swinger but im a lover of 5 spoke wheels so still wanted to run that wheel . Heres what I did ......

Couldn't find bearings that fit the OD on the R6 wheel and the ID to fit the FJ axle . Well the FJ axle will slide into the R6 axle which made me think why cant I use both to get to where I need to be ??? So to start we measured everything to get chain in line , had to take some off the sprocket side spacer to move it over . Then took the R6 axle and flipped it over and cut off the threaded side and took the chain adjuster blocks and milled it down to for the spacer next to the rear brake hanger . Then made 2 slugs turned down to just match the ID of the R6 axle and bored them out in the center to fit the FJ axle and press fit them in ! Wheel is on and rolls smooth  :good2:
  Need to come up with a new brake stay but think I have it made in my mind just need to make sure it works . On the R6 rear sprocket its a 48T 525 and on the FJ front its a 17T 530 so need to figure out which is the best way to go : Change front to a 520,525 and run bigger size or change rear to smaller size and run 530 ????

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/FJrear_zpse7488387.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/FJrear_zpse7488387.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/FJrear1_zpsb98115ce.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/FJrear1_zpsb98115ce.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/R66_zps06fe2632.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/R66_zps06fe2632.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fjrear2_zps25f1dd5b.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fjrear2_zps25f1dd5b.jpg.html)

Nice post ! Pictures are worth a thousand words.  :good2:
George

Quote from: DreadRock on November 29, 2013, 11:04:47 AM
  On the R6 rear sprocket its a 48T 525 and on the FJ front its a 17T 530 so need to figure out which is the best way to go : Change front to a 520,525 and run bigger size or change rear to smaller size and run 530 ????

Very cool mod, kudos!

The FJ is a realitively heavy machine at 550 lbs with rider, passenger, gear can get over 900 lbs.
The FJ engine's torque is what makes this bike work, and thus, a quality chain is important.
There is a reason a 530 chain is specified for this bike. The lighter sport bikes make do with the 525 but I would hesitate putting the 525 on our bikes. We have too much torque and weight for this chain.
No friggin way would I consider a 520 chain on the FJ. Might as well put a mini bike chain on it.
The largest countershaft sprocket we can fit with the 530 is a 18 tooth.
Can you go to a 19 tooth sprocket with the smaller 525 chain?
Dunno.
Even if you could, the 19 tooth would not be large enough to offset a ginormous 48 tooth rear sprocket, so regardless, you will need to change the back sprocket.
Sprocket Specialists can make a 40-42 tooth sprocket to fit the R-6 rim.

I recommend that you stay with a quality 530 chain (DID ZVM2 or EK ZZZ ) and a new back sprocket.

So now you have the R-6 rear, any thoughts on how are you gonna make a front R-6 rim work with our mechanical speedos?

Again, good work! Cheers. Pat

Thanks guys !
    Was talking to my riding and think tank buddy about the rear set up and we are having one small problem . We have the chain in line but on the sprocket side have less then 1/2 inch or smaller from inside swingarm to tire Edge but on other side ( brake ) its half that but not rubbing the inside of swingarm just real close  ! We are going to put the FJ wheel back on to double check are Alignment and spacing !

As for the front the plan is to stay real close to ritters YZF750 front end . From what I've read and seen with USD most seem to short . So going thru part # and reading as seems 98-02 or 3 YzFs forks might work not 100% buy looking . Also wondering if a TRX850 front might work ??? Just not keen on running 2 or 3 inch collors on the forks . But once done a r6 or r1 5 spoke will be on , I guess the way I think about the speedo is its worth losing it , in trade for better Performance ! As I'm sure you know there are a few options to mount a speedo set up . 
And please feel free to straighten me out on any of the mod !

On the YZF1000 (aka:ThunderAce) swing arm and rim assembly I used on my bikes, I found that using the Honda VF1000R countershaft sprocket spaced the chain out the correct distance so as to correctly line up with back sprocket.
The VFR sprocket has just the right offset. The oem Honda sprocket is a 17 tooth, but Sprocket Specialists made these up in 18 tooth sprockets.
Using this, the 530 chain clearance with the swing arm and 180/55-17 back tire is very close ~ 1/4 inch, but it works. I do run into chain clearance problems with the wider Dunlop and Avon tires, but with the Michelin tires I run, it is not a problem.

Pat,

regarding the VFR1000R counter sprocket,did you have enough thread engagement for the nut, or did you have to machine a register in the sprocket hub?

Scott

I machined in a recess for the lock washer and nut. Simple lathe work but hard, hard material.
I have heard of folks just cutting off the outside shoulder of the sprocket and it will give room ( just barely) for the nut but I believe that the lock washer is important, so a recess is needed.

Just checking things off to make sure I have it covered : is there any off-set either way on a stock swing arm ?

Out of memory I just ground the outside boss down flat and with the lock washer it fits up perfect.  But that is the max I would go. I think you end up gaining about 2mm more offset. I think the stock FJ is 10.8 mm total width and the 85-86 Honda VF 1000 total width is 14.5mm but you grind of the outside boss
JT"s web site is good for looking at the spec's.
Here is the Honda profile http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue (http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue)
Here is the FJ profile http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2565 (http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2565)

Swing arm on mine is center. No offset. Center of the rear wheel aligns with the center of the front wheel. My chain clearance is a hair less that 1/4 " with Michelin tires and no rubbing. 93 GSXR rear wheel and 87/88FZR front wheel.
George

Quote from: DreadRock on November 29, 2013, 03:15:51 PM
As for the front the plan is to stay real close to ritters YZF750 front end

'93-'98 and they were all R's in the US, so you'll be getting the KYB sticks.  

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF750 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF750)

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf750r%2093.htm (http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf750r%2093.htm)

Mine are re-anodized and newly rebuilt with Racetech tubes... also the stacks and compression/rebound valves are custom tuned for the FJ by GP Suspension (said all this before I know).  You might jump straight to Ohlins forks...   :gamer:

Frank

  Thanks for all the good info guys  :good2:

  As for the rear wheel did have to make a small adjustment to get the tire centered. In my earlier post I was talking about the tire being closer to one side then the other and it was driving me nuts LOL So after reading more on the FJ.UK site and what they did to solve the problem, I when for it . So we pulled the wheel and milled down the inside of the carrier and the fingers in the wheel . Then trimed down the cush rubber to match to drop the carrier down in the wheel . Had to remake the spacer on the brake side . We used playdo  :rofl2: to check to make sure we have the spacing inside and that nothing was rubbing ! Next will be making a brake stay arm and calling SS to get the new 530 F/B sprockets !

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/photo5_zps5058cda6.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/photo5_zps5058cda6.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/FJcarrier_zps4a7afe8d.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/FJcarrier_zps4a7afe8d.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/photo7_zps160b96c1.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/photo7_zps160b96c1.jpg.html)

  All right the back R6 wheel is on and ready to go  :good2: Been looking and found a set of 1998 YZF750R forks with lower yoke for ... wait for it.... 175.00 shipped  :wacko3:  They need cleaned and will be putting new oil and seals in them but not springs yet . Want to run them as is for the moment to see which way to go if need with the springs . My guy is stopping by today to have a look at the yoke so I can show him what needs done as i don't have the tools or skills to switch them .Was wondering why do i need to switch but once i got the forks i see why as the FJ1100 stem is 3/4inch longer then the YZFs. Once that's done will be giving AllBalls a call for new seals and head bearings then move on from there. One set back i found when i got the forks was the calipers i had which are R6 and don't mount to the YZF hangers. So will be selling them and find a set of R1s . Now reading "Ritters" build hes calling for " R1 monoblock calipers " is that a diff set of calipers or just a diff way of saying " stock R1 calipers " ?
 
  List of things that need done :
         New seals and bearings
         New brake lines
         New brake pads
         R1 wheel
         Top yoke "Thunderace" or Stuntbike
         Brake stay
         530 Chain and sprocket front and back
         R1 calipers
         Bars and grips
         Front fender
         Tires then ride the HELL OUT OF IT  :yahoo:

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/FJfork_zps84c0ffd0.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/FJfork_zps84c0ffd0.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fjfork1_zps9d37da78.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fjfork1_zps9d37da78.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fjfork2_zps24b29b52.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fjfork2_zps24b29b52.jpg.html)

Monoblocks are the same one piece calipers as the stock R-1's.
Last I spoke with Marc, he decided his 1.0kg/mm fork springs were a bit stiff for street duties so he was going to drop down to .95kg/mm springs. He did mention that the stock (external) adjusters on the YZF750 forks had very little in the range of adjustment on compression and rebound settings, so he sent them up to a company in Oregon for them to install their custom needles and valves giving him a wider range of compression/rebound adjustment.

Frank can chime in here. I believe he did the same with his YZF750 forks.

Cheers

Think that's why I'm going to wait and see . I did read that he didn't like the springs he put in the first time and move to diff ones which is why I'm not pulling the trigger on that just yet ! And thanks you for the info !
Well the bottom yoke are off getting switched so should see them back first of the year which give me time to find parts ! No turning back now  :good:

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 18, 2013, 02:14:23 PM
Frank can chime in here. I believe he did the same with his YZF750 forks...

My forks are Marc's backup set and I sent them to GP Suspension (that's the place in Oregon) along with the bent set from Klavdy's incident to get a nice, straight set.  Valve stack is custom and I also dropped the springs to 0.9's (I'm 20# lighter than Marc).  A local guy (Evolution Suspension) tuned the front and rear (Ohlins) for me without issues on adjustment range...

One issue I did run into is the shitty chrome on the stock YZF750 forks...  it got scored up and turned purple, looking like hell and even a bit dangerous maybe.  I replaced the sliders (EXPENSIVE) and things are good for now.

Frank

Quote from: DreadRock on December 18, 2013, 01:52:21 PM
stock R1 calipers?

Blue or gold dots are what you want.  You'll need to remove some of the webbing between the caliper mounting bolts to give these calipers clearance, but otherwise they bolt right on.  I did the material removal with a nice set of files...  not difficult at all and, since you only remove that obviously thinner part, you don't see it at all when done.

Frank

With that said that's why I didn't think the R6 calipers wouldn't work . So will have to take a look at part #s and see if the R6 and R1 run same calipers ! Seem to find most brands like to run same parts where they can !

Would anyone have a link to a site that has axle sizes ? Trying to figure out if the YZF axle is the same ID of a R1/6 axle or will have to see if I can replace the bearing to get things to fit !
Thanks

That's where it gets tricky.... (IIRC) The YZF750 uses a 17 mm axle, the axle on your R1/6 much larger.

Also, the beauty behind the YZF750/FZR USD swap (using the YZF/FZR front rims) is that they use a mechanical speedometer drive which hooks right up to your FJ's speedo.
You lose that using the R1 rim.

When you get the axle bushings figured out, you will need to figure out a solution for your speedo.

Yea Pat that's sitting in the back of my mind " Do I keep marching on with R wheels or do I stop and go to the GSXR/FZR wheel set up " ? Trying to figure everything out befor I drop tithe money on a R wheel . For the money of just the R wheel I can find both front and back and get what I was after in the first place " a nicer front end and better Performance tires  :dash2: LOL

I want to see you do this.
Don't stop now, you've got the back figured out, so let's get a matching R-6 rim on the front.
The YZF fork uses a 17 mm axle so you should be able to figure out the bushings needed or perhaps find wheel bearings that will fit the R-6 rim with a ID of 17mm.
(Btw, the axle diameter info. you asked about I saved over in the File section under 'modification')

Frank Moore (racerman 27410) did a bitchen mod on his FJ where he put a digital dash display needed because he also did a front end swap (FZ-1?) where he lost the mechanical drive for his speedometer, so there is a solution.
Tim (axiom-r) did a complete R-1 front end swap, forks and all, and he also lost the mechanical drive. He mentioned a box what could be hooked up with the FJ mechanical speedometer that converts the digital signal from the R-1 rim to a mechanical action which drives the stock FJ speedo.

So....there is a way to do this.  Keep the speedo...or do a digital dash.

I just wanted to give you a heads up, and definitely not to discourage you.  Pat

Pat, one type is made by a company called Dakota Digital.  They have this "Universal Speedometer Signal Interface" that looks it will go from soup to nuts, but it's pricey, ~ $85.  I was telling a friend about this for a Jeep that he's upgraded with a GM transmission.  I'm sure there are others to be found.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/ (http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/)

I used trail tech vapor on my 86 with 2008 gsxr1000 front. And will be doing the same on my 89 this winter.
The trail tech is digital speedo, bar or digital tach. It has shift lights trip, maintenance reminder, and lots of other stuff I'll never use. I got them off fleabay for $119 apiece.
I kept the stock idiot lights turn signal indicators, low fuel lights ect and put a round digital fuel gauge and voltmeter on either side.
kookaloo sticker above the trail tech. I think it looks pretty good.
I've got a couple of crappy phone pics in my gallery. I can't seem to get them to post. I don't have a working computer right now so I think it's because I'm using my phone. :

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 21, 2013, 02:12:36 PM
That's where it gets tricky.... (IIRC) The YZF750 uses a 17 mm axle, the axle on your R1/6 much larger.

Also, the beauty behind the YZF750/FZR USD swap (using the YZF/FZR front rims) is that they use a mechanical speedometer drive which hooks right up to your FJ's speedo.
You lose that using the R1 rim.

When you get the axle bushings figured out, you will need to figure out a solution for your speedo.

Pat, this isn't a cheap solution, but I fitted a Speedhut GPS speedo to my FJ (after spending heaps of hours trying to get my standard inaccurate speedos to work correctly). I managed to fit the speedhut into the same area as my previous speedo, took some doing but it works well (no I don't work for speedhut). No speedo cable required.

Quote from: Bozo on December 23, 2013, 08:19:08 AM
Pat, this isn't a cheap solution, but I fitted a Speedhut GPS speedo to my FJ (after spending heaps of hours trying to get my standard inaccurate speedos to work correctly). I managed to fit the speedhut into the same area as my previous speedo, took some doing but it works well (no I don't work for speedhut). No speedo cable required.

No, it certainly isn't cheap  :shok:

http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers (http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers)

 I did read about a few ideas on the speedo, something called " X connect " or something alike . As for the front wheel itself from what im finding most if not all newer Yam wheels R1/6,FJR,FZ1 all use the same bearing OD (44mm) just change the ID . So now I need to find 17mm ID,44mm OD but not sure on the width of the bearing needed yet ?? Also need to measure the hub and what space between disks to make sure it will slid in with spacers made if needed . But over all its looking better will see how it goes!!

Riding buddy is a Honda guy and was telling me that Honda F2 wheels are 17inch,6 spoke, with a mechanical speedo so that's something to keep in mind !!

Quote from: not a lib on December 23, 2013, 09:59:26 AM

Quote from: Bozo on December 23, 2013, 08:19:08 AM
Pat, this isn't a cheap solution, but I fitted a Speedhut GPS speedo to my FJ (after spending heaps of hours trying to get my standard inaccurate speedos to work correctly). I managed to fit the speedhut into the same area as my previous speedo, took some doing but it works well (no I don't work for speedhut). No speedo cable required.

No, it certainly isn't cheap  :shok:

http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers (http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers)

I think I am going to go with an iphone app....to start anyway.

Jeff

Quote from: not a lib on December 23, 2013, 09:59:26 AM

Quote from: Bozo on December 23, 2013, 08:19:08 AM
Pat, this isn't a cheap solution, but I fitted a Speedhut GPS speedo to my FJ (after spending heaps of hours trying to get my standard inaccurate speedos to work correctly). I managed to fit the speedhut into the same area as my previous speedo, took some doing but it works well (no I don't work for speedhut). No speedo cable required.

No, it certainly isn't cheap  :shok:

http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers (http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers)

But I do likey.  :good2:

Quote from: DreadRock on December 23, 2013, 02:55:48 PM
I did read about a few ideas on the speedo, something called " X connect " or something alike . As for the front wheel itself from what im finding most if not all newer Yam wheels R1/6,FJR,FZ1 all use the same bearing OD (44mm) just change the ID . So now I need to find 17mm ID,44mm OD but not sure on the width of the bearing needed yet ?? Also need to measure the hub and what space between disks to make sure it will slid in with spacers made if needed . But over all its looking better will see how it goes!!

Riding buddy is a Honda guy and was telling me that Honda F2 wheels are 17inch,6 spoke, with a mechanical speedo so that's something to keep in mind !!

Cable X is what you're thinking.....it's more expensive @ $340 than the GPS speedometer Bozo mentioned ($314)
Murphy's Law dictates that as soon as you install the Cable X box and get it calibrated to your FJ, your speedometer clock will start it's inevitable death whine...

I like Bozo's solution the best.
In one fell swoop you do away with the mechanical drive, cable and the old FJ speedo clock which is now on its last legs in many of our bikes.

Bozo, I would like to learn more about your Speed Hut GPS speedometer. It could be a viable option for us.
What size? How is it working for you? Any calibration problems? Did you use the 160mph version and use your oem FJ speedo face? What happens when you drop the GPS signal? Any pictures?

You gotta love this forum.....

Quote from: The General on December 23, 2013, 03:18:34 PM

Quote from: not a lib on December 23, 2013, 09:59:26 AM

Quote from: Bozo on December 23, 2013, 08:19:08 AM
Pat, this isn't a cheap solution, but I fitted a Speedhut GPS speedo to my FJ (after spending heaps of hours trying to get my standard inaccurate speedos to work correctly). I managed to fit the speedhut into the same area as my previous speedo, took some doing but it works well (no I don't work for speedhut). No speedo cable required.

No, it certainly isn't cheap  :shok:

http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers (http://www.speedhut.com/gauges/GPS-speedometers)

But I do likey.  :good2:

The speedo is brilliant, front wheel size doesn't matter, also the Apps for iphones don't update 5 times a second. I am inclined to believe them because even accelerating hard the speedo shows no sign of jumping trying to correct like an iphone. To get a true reading on an APP you have to steady first before reading. Would I buy it again, YES. So far two riders I go out with have fitted these to their KZ900/KZ1000 but they had the Tacho matched and the facias have been tailored.

Pat, I haven't had it drop out yet even around the city, I haven't even noticed it dropping out while going through a tunnel (maybe they have some kind of repeaters??) but maybe I also wasn't paying attention to the speed at the time. I bought the 3.5 inch and because Oz has Kilometers I have 260KPH on mine (you can have any detail you want) plus you can add lettering - "FJ1200" or anything/colour you want. No need to calibrate, it is a GPS with a stepper motor for the dail.  (http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag34/Bozo36/Mobile%20Uploads/P1000901_zps8b5bc774.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/Bozo36/media/Mobile%20Uploads/P1000901_zps8b5bc774.jpg.html)

That's a very nice, clean install.
Question: I use my odometer for fuel stops. I guess I would lose that feature? GPS for distance calculation where there is a lot of vertical changes (uphill/down hill, mountain riding) would be less accurate than the mechanical or digital wheel sensor models?

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 23, 2013, 09:04:47 PM
That's a very nice, clean install.
Question: I use my odometer for fuel stops. I guess I would lose that feature? GPS for distance calculation where there is a lot of vertical changes (uphill/down hill, mountain riding) would be less accurate than the mechanical or digital wheel sensor models?

GPS should cover that Pat, it is 3D so all the directions X,Y and Z are included.... How else can it be accurate?

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 23, 2013, 09:04:47 PM
That's a very nice, clean install.
Question: I use my odometer for fuel stops. I guess I would lose that feature? GPS for distance calculation where there is a lot of vertical changes (uphill/down hill, mountain riding) would be less accurate than the mechanical or digital wheel sensor models? Consider it has altitude, the up/down must be catered for.

Odometer is as usual, you can set for fuel distances, standing 1/4mile drags, altitude (which solves the up/down), top speed, and lots of other stuff including the odometer, even a compass. Compared to the accuracy of the old speedo this would still be better going up and down hills.
Anyway HILLS HILLS , oh thats right some places do have them...........not bloody Perth 15 mtrs from sea level in every direction :mocking:

The speedo has a set button on it, I soldered some wires (you can get these fitted for extra) and added a switch in the normal speedo reset position (see picture) this sets all functions (see Speedhut site).
I must add it was not a straight forward fit, if there is enough interest I might be able to share my fitting arrangement.

Quote from: Bozo on December 23, 2013, 09:23:39 PM
...........not bloody Perth 15 mtrs from sea level in every direction :mocking:

Except west....lol

Harvy

Quote from: FJmonkey on December 23, 2013, 09:09:55 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 23, 2013, 09:04:47 PM
That's a very nice, clean install.
Question: I use my odometer for fuel stops. I guess I would lose that feature? GPS for distance calculation where there is a lot of vertical changes (uphill/down hill, mountain riding) would be less accurate than the mechanical or digital wheel sensor models?

GPS should cover that Pat, it is 3D so all the directions X,Y and Z are included.... How else can it be accurate?

Ok, thanks Mark. I knew the X-Y works well but was unsure of Z, being that the GPS sats are 12k miles away.

Thanks Bozo for the information ...what a cool mod. :good2:
jeeze....I hate calling you Bozo, it's a derogatory term over here in the states. Kinda like saying, thanks you fucking clown for the info..(not what I want to say) we are informal here, so you got a first name?   

Anyhoo...thanks again...if you want to do a write up (inc. reset switch info.) please do so and I'll be sure it gets over into the Files section for ease of future reference. Many of our old speedometers are on their last legs.
It looks like all three instruments in the FJ's cluster 1) speedo 2) tach and 3) fuel gauge could be replaced.
I especially like the 3.5" dual gauge for fuel level and voltage......or should it be fuel and oil temp? Hmmmm.

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 24, 2013, 02:59:02 AM

Quote from: FJmonkey on December 23, 2013, 09:09:55 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 23, 2013, 09:04:47 PM
That's a very nice, clean install.
Question: I use my odometer for fuel stops. I guess I would lose that feature? GPS for distance calculation where there is a lot of vertical changes (uphill/down hill, mountain riding) would be less accurate than the mechanical or digital wheel sensor models?

GPS should cover that Pat, it is 3D so all the directions X,Y and Z are included.... How else can it be accurate?

Ok, thanks Mark. I knew the X-Y works well but was unsure of Z, being that the GPS sats are 12k miles away.

Thanks Bozo for the information ...what a cool mod. :good2:
jeeze....I hate calling you Bozo, it's a derogatory term over here in the states. Kinda like saying, thanks you fucking clown for the info..(not what I want to say) we are informal here, so you got a first name?   

Anyhoo...thanks again...if you want to do a write up (inc. reset switch info.) please do so and I'll be sure it gets over into the Files section for ease of future reference. Many of our old speedometers are on their last legs.
It looks like all three instruments in the FJ's cluster 1) speedo 2) tach and 3) fuel gauge could be replaced.
I especially like the 3.5" dual gauge for fuel level and voltage......or should it be fuel and oil temp? Hmmmm.

Pat its John, I got the name because I was a clown at school many years ago.

  Well been doing ALOT of looking and reading about what can be done with front wheel  :dash2: ! After looking for bearings that will fit this wheel or that to use stock YZF axle and  looking at rotor fitment with the speedo problem which seems to be the biggest problem for most on updated wheels. Well i think i got around it with a wheel that has the speedo drive and should match the back wheel once done ! Now i know i havent said which wheel because first i want to get it in my hands ( ordered it today ) . Then once i get it all set up and know its a green light will have pics and a write up on what was done !!!

Right on !
How did you search? On line or visits to the boneyard?

Went out and looked at diff wheels , talked to guys that had the wheels sitting in there shop, online , did searches for bearing size , which wheels had a speedo drive , just about everything but buy one of each LOL

   Well i went with a 93 CBR F2 Front wheel  :yes: which is like looking for gold as a lot of the 900RR guys what them . After looking at my buddys VFR in stock trim there running 8 spoke out back and 6 up front so if Honda can so can i . The up side : 17x3.50 , has a speedo drive , has more then 3 spokes , and can get bearings to fit wheel and YZF axle . Down side : Needs 310mm rotors that are hard to find and some what pricey but not a stopper .
  Was worried that it would look odd but after you add 310mm rotors , calipers , forks , fender you will never see it or pick it out right off the bat   :good: Should have the front mounted up i hope by next weekend ! Did get the R6 calipers mounted onto the forks after trimming down the webbing as lil as it needed .
Needs done out back : 530 chain,sprokets,brake stay, tire

Needs done up front  : Rotors , tire , bearings , fender , risers , bars , control

Yes the wheel is yellow but once everything is done both wheel will come off and PCed black then new bearings, seals !

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/FJforkcaliper_zps4025f1f7.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/FJforkcaliper_zps4025f1f7.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/frontw2_zps5773483b.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/frontw2_zps5773483b.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/frontw_zpsc608e482.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/frontw_zpsc608e482.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/frontw1_zps5c2d8a49.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/frontw1_zps5c2d8a49.jpg.html)

Are you sure you need a 310mm rotor and not a 320mm?

Excellent solution DRock! Finding a modern, light weight 6 spoke rim with a mechanical speedo drive is most impressive....I can't wait to see the finished pictures!

Kudos

Nice work. Keep it up  :good2: Most of us can relate to the problems you are working on. Nice to see different approaches.
George

Thanks guys I'm trying !

As for the rotors from what I have found and the quick Measurements I took its a 310mm needed . The YZFs run a 310mm and the R6 also so the plan is to get the wheel all mounted up on forks and bike befor I order anything to make sure which size rotors are needed !

I did check before I posted, and according to the specs I saw, the 1998 YZF750R used 320mm rotors (12.6in.)

MMMmmm I will have to recheck my info ! Thanks for the heads up Pat  :scratch_one-s_head:

Later R6s use 310mm, per Yamaha spec page.    :yes:

http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport/products/modelspecs/8/0/specs.aspx (http://www.yamahamotorsports.com/sport/products/modelspecs/8/0/specs.aspx)

Found this ... Helped me some but thought it might help others ...

Bike  Size  year  Size                                     #
Ducati 998 02-03 320 4.5 14.5 64.2 8.5 80 6 MD636LD MD636RD
Ducati 999/999 S/999 R 03-06 320 4.5 14.5 72.2 8.5 90 5 MD622LD MD622RD
Honda RC 30 Oversize 320 5 17.8 58.3 6.3 74 6 MD702LD MD702RD
Honda CBR 600 F2 (Oversize Floating Conv.) 91-94 310 4.7 0 144.3 10.5 166 6 MD601LD MD601RD
Honda CBR 600 F3 Oversize (EBC 1003 type) 95-98 320 5 17.2 62.2 6.3 78 6 MD709LD MD709RD
Honda CBR 600 F3/SJR/SE 95-98 296 5 17.2 58 6.3 74 6 MD1003LD MD1003RD MD1003CR
Honda CBR 600 F4 Standard 296mm disc 99-00 310 5 17.2 62.2 6.3 78 6 MD1014LD MD1014RD MD1014CR
Honda CBR 600 F4 Oversize 320mm disc 99-00 320 5 17.2 62.2 6.3 78 6 MD729LD MD729RD
Honda CBR 600 F4i Sport 01-06 296 4.7 12.5 95 6.3 110 6 MD1141LD MD1141RD
Honda CBR 600 RR 03-06 310 4.5 12.5 94.2 6.3 110 6 MD1152LD MD1152RD MD1152CR
Honda RVF 750 R (RC45) 94-95 310 5.5 21.1 58 6.3 74 6 MD1012LD MD1012RD
Honda 750 R (RC 30) 90 310 6 17.8 58 6.3 74 6 MD1010LD MD1010RD
Honda CBR 900 R Oversize (EBC 1014 type) 92-93 320 5 17.2 62.2 6.3 78 6 MD716LD MD716RD
Honda CBR 900 RR (320mm oversize rotor) 98-99 320 5 21.1 58.3 6.3 74 6 MD729LD MD729RD
Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade 95-97 296 5 17.2 58 6.3 74 6 MD1003LD MD1003RD MD1003CR
Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade 98-99 310 5 21.1 62 6.3 78 6 MD1134LD MD1134RD MD1134CR
Honda CBR 929 RR (929cc model) 00-01 330 4.5 12.5 94.3 6.3 110 6 MD1137LD MD1137RD MD1137CR
Honda CBR 954 RR (954cc model) 02-03 330 4.5 12.5 94.3 6.3 110 6 MD1137LD MD1137RD MD1137CR
Honda CBR 1000 RR 04-06 310 5 12.75 94.2 6.3 110 6 MD1153LD MD1153RD MD1153CR
Bolt PCD No of Part No Part No Contour
Make & Model (wheel) Yr Dia Offset Bore Dia Bolts Bolts Left Right Disc *
234
RACE/SPECIAL
ROTORS & CALIPERS
EBC RACE ROTOR PROGRAM - FRONT NOT FOR HIGHWAY USE (Contd)...
Honda RVT 1000 R (RC51) 00-06 320 4.5 12.5 94.3 6.3 110 6 MD1138LD MD1138RD
Honda VTR 1000 F Super Hawk 98-06 296 5 17.2 58 6.3 74 6 MD1003LD MD1003RD MD1003CR
Kawasaki Ex (GPz) 500 Floating Rotor Conversion 87-93 280 5 Ø 130.3 10.5 150 6 MD714LD
Kawasaki Ex (GPz) 500 Floating Rotor Conversion 94-05 280 5 Ø 130.3 10.5 150 6 MD714RD
Kawasaki ZX 6R (ZX 600 F1/F2/F3) 95-97 299 4.7 12.5 61 10.5 81.2 5 MD4008LD MD4008RD MD4008CR
Kawasaki 6R (ZX 600 G1/G2/J1/J2/J3) 98-02 299 4.7 13.4 61 10.5 81.2 5 MD4136LD MD4136RD MD4136CR
Kawasaki 6RR (ZX 600 K1/M1) 599cc 03-04 280 5.8 0 80.4 10.5 100 5 MD4151LD MD4151RD MD4151CR
Kawasaki ZX 6R (ZX 636 A1) 02 299 4.7 13.4 61 10.5 81.2 5 MD4136LD MD4136RD MD4136CR
Kawasaki 6R (ZX 636 B1/B2) 636cc 03-04 280 5.8 0 80.4 10.5 100 5 MD4151LD MD4151RD MD4151CR
Kawasaki ZX6R (ZX 600 N1/N6F) 05-06 380 5.8 0 80.4 10.5 100 5 MD4152CR
Kawasaki ZX6RR (ZX 636 C1/C6F) 05-06 380 5.8 0 80.4 10.5 100 5 MD4152CR
Kawasaki ZX 7R (ZX 750 P1-P8) (6 piston pad) Tokico caliper96-03 320 5 13.1 61 10.5 81.2 6 MD4022LD MD4022RD MD4022CR
Kawasaki KX 7RR (ZX 750 N1/N2) (6 pison pad) Nissin caliper96-99 320 5 13.1 61 10.5 81.2 6 MD4022LD MD4022RD MD4022CR
Kawasaki ZX-9R B1/B2/B3/B4 Ninja 94-97 320 5 13.1 61 10.5 81.2 6 MD4022LD MD4022RD MD4022CR
Kawasaki ZX-9R (ZX 900 C1/C2) 98-99 299 4.7 13.4 61 10.5 81.2 5 MD4136LD MD4136RD MD4136CR
Kawasaki ZX9R (ZX 900 E1/E2) 00-01 310 5 13.25 61 10.5 81.2 5 MD4012LD MD4012RD MD4012CR
Kawasaki ZX9R (ZX 900 F1/F2) 02-03 320 5 13.1 61 10.5 81.2 6 MD4022LD MD4022RD MD4022CR
Kawasaki ZX10R (ZX 1000 C1/C2/C3/C6F) 04-06 300 5.8 0 80.4 10.5 100 5 MD4152CR
Suzuki - Oversize 320mm -97 320 5 22.3 64.2 10.5 86 5 MD700LD MD700RD
Suzuki/PM Superbike (zero offset)1 (Narrow band) -98 320 5 Ø 64.2 10.5 86 5 MD717LD MD717RD
Suzuki/PM Superbike (zero offset)2 (Standard band) -98 320 5 Ø 64.2 10.5 86 5 MD718LD MD718RD
Suzuki GSX-R 600 WN/WP 92-93 310 5 22.3 64.2 10.5 86 5 MD3007LD MD3007RD MD3007CR
Suzuki GSXR 600 V/W/X/Y/K1-K3/ZK3 97-03 320 5 0 69 10.5 91 5 MD3058LD MD3058RD MD3058CR
Suzuki GSXR 600 K4/K5 04-05 300 5.5 0 69.2 10.5 91 5 MD3089LD MD3089RD MD3089CR
Suzuki GSXR 600 K6 06 310 5.5 0 100.2 10.5 120 5 MD3091LD MD3091RD MD3091CR
Suzuki GSX-R 750 T/V/W/X 96-99 320 5 0 69 10.5 91 5 MD3058LD MD3058RD MD3058CR
Suzuki GSX-R 750 Y/K1/K2/K3 00-03 320 5 0 69 10.5 91 5 MD3058LD MD3058RD MD3058CR
Suzuki GSXR 750 K4/K5 04-05 300 5.5 0 69.2 10.5 91 5 MD3089LD MD3089RD MD3089CR
Suzuki GSXR 750 K6 06 310 5.5 0 100.2 10.5 120 5 MD3091LD MD3091RD MD3091CR
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K1/K2 01-02 320 5 0 69 10.5 91 5 MD3058LD MD3058RD MD3058CR
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K3/K4 03-04 300 5.5 0 69.2 10.5 91 5 MD3089LD MD3089RD MD3089CR
Suzuki GSXR 1000 K5/K6 05-06 310 5.5 0 100.2 10.5 120 5 MD3091LD MD3091RD MD3091CR
Triumph Daytona 955i (6 bolt) 98-00 320 5 10 78 10.5 100.5 6 MD647LD MD647RD
Triumph Daytona 955i (5 bolt) 01-06 320 4.3 14.5 78 10.5 100 5 MD669LD MD669RD
Triumph TT 600 00-03 310 4.5 15.8 78.2 10.5 100 6 MD662LD MD662RD
Triumph Thruxton 900 04-06 320 5 0 144.3 10.5 166 6 MD629LD
Yamaha TZ 125/250 -97 282 5 10.0 64.2 8.5 80 6 MD2022LD MD2022RD
Yamaha TZ 125/250 98-05 299 5 10 64.2 8.5 80 6 MD730LD MD730RD
Yamaha YZF 600 RG/RGC/RH/RHC 95-96 298 5 9.5 64 8.5 80 6 MD2001LD MD2001RD MD2001CR
Yamaha YZF 600 R/RJ/RK/RL/RM/RN/RP/RR/RS 97-04 298 5 0 132 8.5 150 6 MD2074LD MD2074RD MD2074CR
Yamaha YZF 600 RRL/RRM/RRN/RRP (R6) 99-02 298 5 0 132 8.5 150 6 MD2074LD MD2074RD MD2074CR
Yamaha YZF 600 RRR/RRS (R6) 03-04 299 5 0 132.5 8.5 150 5 MD2082LD MD2082RD MD2082CR
Yamaha YZF 1000 R Thunderace 97 298 5 0 132 8.5 150 6 MD2074LD MD2074RD MD2074CR
Yamaha YZF 'R1' 98-03 298 5 0 132 8.5 150 6 MD2074LD MD2074RD MD2074CR
Yamaha YZF R1 (5VY) 04-06 320 4.5 0 132.2 8.5 150 5 MD2094LD MD2094RD MD2094CR
Yamaha

I don't see the YZF750R listed, shame.
Remember, it's your forks (i.e caliper mounting points) that dictate your rotor size.

   That is true and good thing if needed can be adjusted . Did find a snag with 320mm rotors as they don't make them for the CBR wheel but found a few very neat ideas to fix that ! Need to read more  (popcorn)  :mail1:

Sorry thought it was think it was a brain fart thinking of the Thunderace  :wacko3:

 Found this one with the YZF 750R ...


There are plenty of discs about that will fit the FZR - Range 1000 & 750's WITH 320MM FRONTS, NOT REARS.

Yamaha shares this rotor:

Specs: - outer diameter: 320 mm

- inner diameter: 64 mm

- thickness: 4 mm

- offset: 9.5 mm

BOLT PATTERNS ARE THE SAME

WITH YAMAHA Models:

- FZ 1000 R from 1987 till 1989

- FZR 1000 EXUP from 1989 till 1995

· FZR 250 87-

· FZR 750 Genesis 87

· FZR 1000 Genesis 87-88

· FZR 1000 EX-UP 89-95

· SRX 400 (3VN1/3VN2/3VN5) 90-96

· SRX 600 (3SX) 90-91

· SZR 660 96-97

· TDR 250 88-92

· TZR 250 87-92

· XJR 1200 from 1994 till 1998

· XJR 1300 (5EA1) 98

· YZF 750 R/SP 93-97

- YZF 750 R from 1993 till 1995

- To make the list complete:

APRILIA:

- CAPONORD RAID from 2003

- ETV MANA from 2002

- RSV MILLE from 1998 till 2000

- RSV MILLE R 2000

- RSV MILLE SP 2000

- SL 1000 FALCO 2000

DUCATI:

- 620ie MONSTER from 2001

- 620 SS from 2003

- 748 DESMOQUATTRO from 1994 till 1997

- 748 E/S & R from 1998 till 2002

- 749 also S from 2003

- 750 SS from 1991 till 1998

- 800 SS from 2003

- 800 SPORT from 2003

- 851 from 1988 till 1991

- MH 900 E 2000

- 900 M MOSTRO from 1993 till 2000

- 900 SS from 1991 till 1998

- MOSTRO S4 from 2001 till 2002

- 916 all models from 1994 till 1998

- 996 from 1999 till 2001

- 1000 MOSTRO from 2003

the FZR600 uses 298mm diameter discs 64mm inner diameter 4mm thick minimum thickness is 3.5mm the discs are fitted to FZR600 1989-93 FZR600R 1994-95 after this date the discs are 320mm (yzf600r) as fitted to the fs6 and R6 etc

Any luck finding a 320mm rotor that fits the Honda rim's bolt pattern?
The final piece of the puzzle will be the offset needed on the rotor. If the width of the Honda hub is the same as the width on the YZF750 hub you should be ok with the 9.5mm offset rotor. If the width is more, or less than the YZF, then the rotor offset will be different. Width meaning the distance measured from surface to surface where the rotor carrier mounts on the rim.
So....mount your R-1 calipers on your YZF forks...measure the distance between them (at center of slots) then measure the width of your Honda's hub and the difference between the 2 measurements will be what you need for the rotor offset.

  This is where the problem is and that's  just the rotor size . The Honda rim has a funny bolt pattern and are 270 something and the biggest out there is 310mm . I did find a guy that made rings that mount to the Honda rim then could run a what ever 320mm disk you wanted . But the price to make those are out of this world and I just don't have the coin to go there . Not giving up yet but not looking good either LOL but I guess if it was easy every one would be doing it !!!! 
  I understand that last bit Pat as that's what I did building my 75 xs500 running FZR rear and front brakes but that's a diff Animal then the FJ ! Will keep all posted on where this goes ....

Quote from: DreadRock on January 16, 2014, 12:40:19 PM
as that's what I did building my 75 xs500 running FZR rear and front brakes

Pics, please...    :pardon: 

   BEFOR :

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/111.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/111.jpg.html)

AFTER :

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/DSC_0756_zpse557330e.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/DSC_0756_zpse557330e.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/bshot1_zps9fe20127.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/bshot1_zps9fe20127.jpg.html)

Took about 2 1/2 year to build but its alot of fun !
  XS frame,motor,tank,forks
  RD wheels
  FZR rear and front rotors
  SV650 front caliper
  VM32 carbs
  R6 rearset
  GSXR brake lever
  HD rear shocks
  Few custom parts here and there ! Here is a link to the build thread :

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=29668.0 (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=29668.0)

Very nice work DRock. If you had not come along, I bet that XS would still be sitting in that field.
You saved her life, and while doing so, turned her into a super model... :good2:

Something tells me that your FJ is in good hands....

Yeah, very nice!    :good2:

You just don't see many of those, and almost never as a custom.

Thanks for putting the pics up!

Quote from: not a lib on January 16, 2014, 09:36:30 PM

Yeah, very nice!    :good2:

You just don't see many of those, and almost never as a custom.

Thanks for putting the pics up!

+1!!!  Very Nice indeed.  I loved that your rebuild thread was 47 pages.  I only had time for aout 10 pages, but I'll be back to finish that one off.  My older brother had a XS500 that he imported from Japan in ~'75.  I always had a soft spot for that bike.

DreadRock - IF YOU KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PADS you can run 310mm discs.  The danger becomes the part of the pad that overhangs the outside edge of the rotor -- as the pads wear they develop a ridge that will eventually the ridge will keep the pads from making contact with the rotors. You can either replace the pads or grind the ridge down or replace the pads early. 

Same issue I had when I put the Honda 16" rim on the R1 forks on the dragbike. 

Good luck!

Chris

Nice work on the XS!

Thanks guys I Appreciate it ! Can't say I did everything had alot of help from people smarter then me LOL

  I'm hoping to get the forks mounted up this weekend . As for the disks Pat was on it 100% with the YZF running 320mm not 310mm . Once the wheel is all mounted can see which is need or can get away with . Nice thing is if the off-set is close and the calipers are mounted inside of the fork leg might be able to shim then out if needed !! Will see lol

Ok going to just say it ( not liking it ) the project is being put on hold ! And here's why : $$   :shout:
 Now I got the forks back all done and ready to go but with  what I have left to do it will take me most of the summer if not all to pick up everything I need . I have a GTG down in Ky in may and would like to run the FJ down there plus not have it sitting over the summer . Yes I have other bikes to ride but there not my FJ . So my plan is this : put some money in the stock FJ parts like new wheel bearings , brake pads ,chain . Picked up a stock FJ lower tree and its back on the road . By all means this is not over just gives me time to do it right !!

   Just wanted to show that if you don't look over everything on a New to who ever bike you should always check bearings . I didn't and that was all me but  if it takes me till next winter to update the wheels and forks it most likely save me from going down . Now im thinking the PO liked cleaning his bike with a power washer which is a big no no and should only be washed with a hose and still not hit the bearing areas to hard ! So thought I would throw some pics up of what was left of the rear bearings  :wacko1:

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/Fukbearing_zpsb63a03bc.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/Fukbearing_zpsb63a03bc.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fuckedbearings_zpsc7686754.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fuckedbearings_zpsc7686754.jpg.html)

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   :unknown:

Quote from: fj1289 on January 16, 2014, 11:42:53 PMDreadRock - IF YOU KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PADS you can run 310mm discs.  The danger becomes the part of the pad that overhangs the outside edge of the rotor -- as the pads wear they develop a ridge that will eventually the ridge will keep the pads from making contact with the rotors. You can either replace the pads or grind the ridge down or replace the pads early.  Good luck!
Chris

If the new brake pads will hang over the edge of the rotor, you can mark the pad overhang with a pencil, using the edge of the rotor as the marking guide, on each side of the caliper.  Then remove the pad, and saw off the marked area of the pad material with a hacksaw.  Do this when the pad is new, and you will not need to worry about any pad "overhang" problems. for the life of the pad.

Cheers,
Red

Quote from: not a lib on February 18, 2014, 09:40:24 AM

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   :unknown:

All bearings are being replaced on both front and rear wheel and head bearings !

Quote from: red on February 18, 2014, 10:06:06 AM

Quote from: fj1289 on January 16, 2014, 11:42:53 PMDreadRock - IF YOU KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PADS you can run 310mm discs.  The danger becomes the part of the pad that overhangs the outside edge of the rotor -- as the pads wear they develop a ridge that will eventually the ridge will keep the pads from making contact with the rotors. You can either replace the pads or grind the ridge down or replace the pads early.  Good luck!
Chris

If the new brake pads will hang over the edge of the rotor, you can mark the pad overhang with a pencil, using the edge of the rotor as the marking guide, on each side of the caliper.  Then remove the pad, and saw off the marked area of the pad material with a hacksaw.  Do this when the pad is new, and you will not need to worry about any pad "overhang" problems. for the life of the pad.

Cheers,
Red

Yea Red that was the plan once Chris gave me that idea !

Quote from: not a lib on February 18, 2014, 09:40:24 AM

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   :unknown:

The RS denotes it is a sealed cage versus an open caged bearing.. Right?

Quote from: FJscott on February 18, 2014, 10:19:06 AM

Quote from: not a lib on February 18, 2014, 09:40:24 AM

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   :unknown:

The RS denotes it is a sealed cage versus an open caged bearing.. Right?

2 rubber shields, yes.

Best to pull one of them out prior to installation and add a bit more grease.

'zz' indicates 2 metal shields.

 Didn't know you could do that to a sealed bearing !  Am going thru AllBalls bearing for F/R wheels if you pull rubber out wont that mess with it being sealed ?

Quote from: DreadRock on February 18, 2014, 10:59:27 AM
Didn't know you could do that to a sealed bearing !  Am going thru AllBalls bearing for F/R wheels if you pull rubber out wont that mess with it being sealed ?

You should be able to hook the edge of the rubber shield out, apply grease, and pop it back in.

Someone will be here about anytime to tell you they are 'lubricated for life', but a lot of 'em come without much grease in them at all.

 Ok so all the allballs bearings and seals showed up yesterday . Fronts all done and ready to go but have a small problem maybe with back .
   The allballs kit is nice comes with the 3 bearings and seals . The problem is the spacer tube between the bearing is ok but the thin centering Collar got messed up removing the rusted bearing .
   My question: do I need this if I take my time pressing in the bearing or is it one of those lil parts that's a must have to sit right ???

On the R6 wheels the idea of running a R6 wheel and doing a lil mill work to Allow the Mechanical drive to fit is being talked about over running the CBR wheel !

"thin centering Collar?"
I have no idea what you're referring to with that description.  Is it the spacer between the chain side bearing and the sprocket carrier? 

No there is a tube the is between the wheel bearings . It's about 5 inch long and once in you don't see it ! The axle goes thru the bearing then thru the tube then out the other bearing ! Not sure how to Explain it really or what it's real Purpose is lol

If you're talking about the tube between the inner bearing races, yes, it definitely needs to be there.  Both bearings should be fully seated against it.  If it is left out, or the bearings aren't fully seated in the wheel, the bearings will be taking a side load when the axle nut is tightened.

Thank you that's what I needed to know ! There not to bad at 15 bucks but if it need done it will be !

You can also push the outer bearing races too far. And the bearings will be side loaded from the center bushing pushing the center races out. I found this out the hard way. Bearings don't last long when side loaded. I just thought you just push them in until they are seated, but not.

Hey dreadrock I was just looking back through this. I see the 750s lower yoke is dropped. How much is it dropped? And what's the size of outside of forks. I was going to use newer big piston forks but the bottom tapered off too soon to drop them down far enough.
maybe the dropped 750 lower would allow that

Thanks Dan

 I'm at work ( bored slow day ) but ill get the Measurements this weekend when I'm out in the shop this weekend !
Been sitting here thinking about your guys Answers and I think I might be Explaining things wrong ! On the rear wheel with the sprocket carrier off there's the inner bearing . Which is the one in the pic on page 5 , if you look there's the old bearings parts and a real thin Miss shaped part ! That's what I'm talking about and when its on the spacer tube between the bearing to help keep it centered when putting the bearings in . It's a lose fit so when you remove the bearings you can move it just a lil bit to catch the Edge of the bearing ! I've replaced bearings on other bikes and they didn't have something like this . You would get one bearing in , flip wheel over place spacer tube in wheel , then press bearing in to Squeeze the tube between the two bearings !
  The front wheel has the same thing just smaller and when I was installing the front bearing was looking and all it seemed to do was keep the tube centered to make it easier .

If I sound crazy dont worry most people think I am LOL ill get some pics up this weekend to help Explain !

Okay, look at this and tell us which part you're talking about...    :scratch_one-s_head:

https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/YZF-R6_-_YZFR6S_-_2004/REAR_WHEEL (https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/YZF-R6_-_YZFR6S_-_2004/REAR_WHEEL)

Quote from: DreadRock on February 28, 2014, 08:45:38 AM
The problem is the spacer tube between the bearing is ok but the thin centering Collar got messed up removing the rusted bearing .

Above is what confused me.  You talk about the spacer tube.  Are you saying that the rusty thing shown at the bottom of the second picture was used to keep the spacer tube centered in the hub?  If so, I've never seen one before.

I press one bearing in, install the spacer, insert the axle (or a suitable rod to hold everything in alignment) and install the second bearing.

#2 and 3 are it ! Sorry really guys I'm on my phone and not my laptop !

I press one bearing in, install the spacer, insert the axle (or a suitable rod to hold everything in alignment) and install the second bearing.

That's how I've always done it that's why I'm not sure if it just to help or really needed !

I would not chance it. Get a new collar. That wheel assembly is designed a certain way. Follow the oem design.

Yes, you can center the axle tube by using the axle while installing the 2nd bearing...but...

Consider this: That centering collar, as thin as it appears, *might* be necessary for the assembly to get the correct width to properly distribute the compression force to the inner race of the wheel bearings (when you torque down the axle nut)
Without that thin collar added to the width of the axle tube, you *could* be putting too much lateral force on the bearings when things are torqued down. Similar to having a axle tube that is too short.

Note: *might and could* are used because without careful measurements, I'm not sure. Just my hunch.

Again, be safe, follow the oem design.

Quote from: DreadRock on February 28, 2014, 03:19:08 PM
#2 and 3 are it ! Sorry really guys I'm on my phone and not my laptop !

I hate to drag this out but; HUH?  #2 and 3 are a bearing and oil seal

If you look lil closer # 2 is befor the bearing and on the list is called a " Flange spacer" I could be wrong but same thing on two diff Schematics I've looked at ! And never a bad thing as I see it as learning LOL

Question : we are talking about the stock FJ1100 wheel and not the R6 right ? When I got home looked in my manual and they don't show it there  but I know it is  :dash2:

Quote from: DreadRock on February 28, 2014, 07:46:34 PM
Question : we are talking about the stock FJ1100 wheel and not the R6 right ? When I got home looked in my manual and they don't show it there  but I know it is  :dash2:

It is on the '84 FJ 'fische, but not the '04 R6.

https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/FJ1100N_-_1985/REAR_WHEEL (https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy#/Yamaha/FJ1100N_-_1985/REAR_WHEEL)

LOL ok let's forget the R6 wheel , should of keep my mouth shut till I figured this out LOL

  Yes the Flange spacer is in both fische for FJ1100 rear wheel  I looked at speed&sport and the site above . But when looking in the FJ manual its not there ! Odd

DR: Does the bearing spacer tube (#6) fit inside the collar? So that the spacer tube extends from inner bearing race to inner bearing race?

If so, I would not worry about it....that is...until you pull your axle out and the spacer tube falls inside the wheel. :dash1:

Quote from: DreadRock on February 28, 2014, 05:08:48 PM
If you look lil closer # 2 is befor the bearing and on the list is called a " Flange spacer" I could be wrong but same thing on two diff Schematics I've looked at ! And never a bad thing as I see it as learning LOL

Sorry, my bad.  I was looking at the R6 wheel link.  I see it on the FJ schematic.  Move on.....

LOL all good sir ! I always seem to have a hard time explaining thing  :pardon:

  Will be rebuild the forks today and anyone know the Amount of fork oil all the manual real says is use 10wt or 10/30w but not how much ?

I seem to remember the amount of oil was a measurement taken with the forks out, forks compressed, measured from the top...

I'm sure Monkey meant to say, "measurement taken with the SPRINGS out, fork fully compressed....." 

Start with 140mm distance between the oil and the top of the fork. 

Arnie

Quote from: FJmonkey on March 01, 2014, 12:37:48 PM
I seem to remember the amount of oil was a measurement taken with the forks out, forks compressed, measured from the top...

Thanks Arnie... When I did mine last time the forks were out and the springs were out...

  Thanks guys !

  (http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/part1_zps9451420e.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/part1_zps9451420e.jpg.html)


And here they are , the lil thing a majig !  Large tube with out ( Rear wheel ) small one with centering disk ( Front wheel ) . I did get front wheel all done and as did the back with out the disk . This is why ... When I placed the front together when the two bearings where fully seated the center tube was squeezed between them and doesn't move . My thinking is if it moves or falls out theres something wrong with the bearings and I should have a closer look  !

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/part2_zps9529ef2f.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/part2_zps9529ef2f.jpg.html)

  Got the forks all done now just need new brake pads and chain then can enjoy the FJ till I get all the lil parts for the updated FJ LOL

Took me a few reads of the manual to get it but new seals are in and fork oil at 140mm air gap !

(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fork2_zpse80402c4.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fork2_zpse80402c4.jpg.html)
(http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h331/dreadrock1/fork1_zps6e548ed8.jpg) (http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/dreadrock1/media/fork1_zps6e548ed8.jpg.html)

I forgot who originally posted this but do yourself a favor.  After you adjust the level with the fork spring removed, drop the spring in, extend the fork and remeasure the level.

Write this number down!  With it you can do your next fork oil change without having to pull the spring and collapse the fork.  Much faster!

I just got everything back together is this something that I should pull the front end back apart and do or something I can wait till next time ?

You can measure it next time before you pull the springs or drain any oil.

Cool thanks for the info !

When you guys replace the drive chain what do most run ? 530 o-ring , 530 non- o-ring , solid master link , clip master link ?

I just bought a DID 530 ZVM-X 110 links from Indy Superbikes.  $133

http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2 (http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2)

It's an O-ring with rivet master link.

+1 for the DID ZVM-X....and that's a great price.

EK ZZZ is another popular option.

Invest in the highest quality chain. Cheaper in the long run.

Agreed thanks for the info guys ! Got the brakes all bleed and once chains on can start looking for the small parts needed for the update !

X2 on Padre Pat's recommendations.  Rivet master link - but don't over tighten it (should come with shims to make sure you get it right first time around)

Quote from: fj1289 on March 11, 2014, 12:46:36 PM
X2 on Padre Pat's recommendations.  Rivet master link - but don't over tighten it (should come with shims to make sure you get it right first time around)

My ZZZ chain came with a spec for the head diameter when properly deformed/riveted. Use tool, check with calipers, more tool, calipers, more tool, calipers again... Then, just right.

Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 11, 2014, 10:47:21 AM
I just bought a DID 530 ZVM-X 110 links from Indy Superbikes.  $133

http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2 (http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2)

It's an O-ring with rivet master link.

By far the best deal out there ! After calling all my local dealers first cuz I like to support them when I can BUT DAM the ranged from 160-230 bucks for this chain so I called Indy and should have it by Thru  :dance2:  Once done I can start back on the update and thinking of changing from a CBR front wheel to a R6 front wheel . If I can find one at a good price going to pick it up and see if we can make a stock FJ speedo drive fit and work ! Good thing now is I can enjoy the FJ and mess with diff parts to see what works and what don't ! Time will tell  :good:

Quote from: DreadRock on April 01, 2014, 08:31:38 AM

Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on March 11, 2014, 10:47:21 AM
I just bought a DID 530 ZVM-X 110 links from Indy Superbikes.  $133

http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2 (http://www.indysuperbikes.com/product.php?productid=102479121&page=2)

It's an O-ring with rivet master link.

By far the best deal out there ! After calling all my local dealers first cuz I like to support them when I can BUT DAM the ranged from 160-230 bucks for this chain so I called Indy and should have it by Thru  :dance2:  Once done I can start back on the update and thinking of changing from a CBR front wheel to a R6 front wheel . If I can find one at a good price going to pick it up and see if we can make a stock FJ speedo drive fit and work ! Good thing now is I can enjoy the FJ and mess with diff parts to see what works and what don't ! Time will tell  :good:

Here is some info on the ZZZ chain installation and ZZZ pin diameters. A cheap Harbor Freight digtal caliper is handy to measure the pins and plate width.
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8945.msg84147#msg84147 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8945.msg84147#msg84147)
George

Can't seem to find the GSXR wheel swap and what is needed ? As in which rear caliper and hanger I could use any help would be great !

I am done with trying the R wheels because I wasted a good R front wheel trying to get a mechanical speedo to work and it didn't ! So I'm to the point I would rather have good wheels that work over cool wheels that as so so ! I picked up a nice GSXR 1100 rear wheel but not sure which brake and hanger to use . Still running front YZF 750 forks and blue dots so I'm on the hunt for a YZF750 front wheel and be done with it !

Guys I can thank you enough with all your help !

"requires that you fit the
cool underslung rear brake calipers from an 89-98 GSXR1100 or 88-
95GSXR750 as well. The new brake torsion arm can be either attached to
the same point that the right side of the centerstand bolts (easiest)"

Full write up is here: go and open up the PDF file.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2465.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=2465.0)

I had to do a little digging and waiting on e bay to locate the correct hanger.  If you get the correct parts it is an easy conversion. Take time and get the correct stuff..

As one of the surviving Donner girls said in a letter back home (near as I can remember) "come out West, but take no cuttoff's"
George

Cool thank you sir !

Guess sometimes it takes a arm and a leg to get out west !

So I have what is needed for the GSXR rear wheel swap . Looking over the file it doesn't say which side or how man washers it needs ?? Any idea guys

Enough to fill the gap on each side when the wheel is centered.
Sheesh!

Good point I guess  :crazy: