R6 Wheels and USD Forks ' 85 FJ 1100 " Upgrade

[DreadRock]

Ok going to just say it ( not liking it ) the project is being put on hold ! And here's why : $$  
 Now I got the forks back all done and ready to go but with  what I have left to do it will take me most of the summer if not all to pick up everything I need . I have a GTG down in Ky in may and would like to run the FJ down there plus not have it sitting over the summer . Yes I have other bikes to ride but there not my FJ . So my plan is this : put some money in the stock FJ parts like new wheel bearings , brake pads ,chain . Picked up a stock FJ lower tree and its back on the road . By all means this is not over just gives me time to do it right !!

[DreadRock]

   Just wanted to show that if you don't look over everything on a New to who ever bike you should always check bearings . I didn't and that was all me but  if it takes me till next winter to update the wheels and forks it most likely save me from going down . Now im thinking the PO liked cleaning his bike with a power washer which is a big no no and should only be washed with a hose and still not hit the bearing areas to hard ! So thought I would throw some pics up of what was left of the rear bearings 

[rktmanfj]

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   

[red]

DreadRock - IF YOU KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PADS you can run 310mm discs.  The danger becomes the part of the pad that overhangs the outside edge of the rotor -- as the pads wear they develop a ridge that will eventually the ridge will keep the pads from making contact with the rotors. You can either replace the pads or grind the ridge down or replace the pads early.  Good luck!
Chris

If the new brake pads will hang over the edge of the rotor, you can mark the pad overhang with a pencil, using the edge of the rotor as the marking guide, on each side of the caliper.  Then remove the pad, and saw off the marked area of the pad material with a hacksaw.  Do this when the pad is new, and you will not need to worry about any pad "overhang" problems. for the life of the pad.

Cheers,
Red

[DreadRock]

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   

All bearings are being replaced on both front and rear wheel and head bearings !

DreadRock - IF YOU KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE PADS you can run 310mm discs.  The danger becomes the part of the pad that overhangs the outside edge of the rotor -- as the pads wear they develop a ridge that will eventually the ridge will keep the pads from making contact with the rotors. You can either replace the pads or grind the ridge down or replace the pads early.  Good luck!
Chris

If the new brake pads will hang over the edge of the rotor, you can mark the pad overhang with a pencil, using the edge of the rotor as the marking guide, on each side of the caliper.  Then remove the pad, and saw off the marked area of the pad material with a hacksaw.  Do this when the pad is new, and you will not need to worry about any pad "overhang" problems. for the life of the pad.

Cheers,
Red

Yea Red that was the plan once Chris gave me that idea !

[FJscott]

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?   

The RS denotes it is a sealed cage versus an open caged bearing.. Right?

[rktmanfj]

You're gonna get the ~2rs bearings for the replacements, right?  

The RS denotes it is a sealed cage versus an open caged bearing.. Right?

2 rubber shields, yes.

Best to pull one of them out prior to installation and add a bit more grease.

'zz' indicates 2 metal shields.

[DreadRock]

 Didn't know you could do that to a sealed bearing !  Am going thru AllBalls bearing for F/R wheels if you pull rubber out wont that mess with it being sealed ?

[rktmanfj]

Didn't know you could do that to a sealed bearing !  Am going thru AllBalls bearing for F/R wheels if you pull rubber out wont that mess with it being sealed ?

You should be able to hook the edge of the rubber shield out, apply grease, and pop it back in.

Someone will be here about anytime to tell you they are 'lubricated for life', but a lot of 'em come without much grease in them at all.

[DreadRock]

 Ok so all the allballs bearings and seals showed up yesterday . Fronts all done and ready to go but have a small problem maybe with back .
   The allballs kit is nice comes with the 3 bearings and seals . The problem is the spacer tube between the bearing is ok but the thin centering Collar got messed up removing the rusted bearing .
   My question: do I need this if I take my time pressing in the bearing or is it one of those lil parts that's a must have to sit right

On the R6 wheels the idea of running a R6 wheel and doing a lil mill work to Allow the Mechanical drive to fit is being talked about over running the CBR wheel !

[FJ_Hooligan]

"thin centering Collar?"
I have no idea what you're referring to with that description.  Is it the spacer between the chain side bearing and the sprocket carrier? 

[DreadRock]

No there is a tube the is between the wheel bearings . It's about 5 inch long and once in you don't see it ! The axle goes thru the bearing then thru the tube then out the other bearing ! Not sure how to Explain it really or what it's real Purpose is lol

[rktmanfj]

If you're talking about the tube between the inner bearing races, yes, it definitely needs to be there.  Both bearings should be fully seated against it.  If it is left out, or the bearings aren't fully seated in the wheel, the bearings will be taking a side load when the axle nut is tightened.

[DreadRock]

Thank you that's what I needed to know ! There not to bad at 15 bucks but if it need done it will be !

[giantkiller]

You can also push the outer bearing races too far. And the bearings will be side loaded from the center bushing pushing the center races out. I found this out the hard way. Bearings don't last long when side loaded. I just thought you just push them in until they are seated, but not.