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R6 Wheels and USD Forks ' 85 FJ 1100 " Upgrade

Started by DreadRock, November 29, 2013, 11:04:47 AM

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DreadRock

  So after reading about all the Mods for the FJs ( mostly 1200s  :blum1: ) on diff wheels this is what I came up with !  Have a 04 R6 rear wheel and was hoping to run the wheel and swingarm . But the R6 swinger just need more Moding then what I wanted to do to the bike . So back on the went the stock swinger but im a lover of 5 spoke wheels so still wanted to run that wheel . Heres what I did ......

Couldn't find bearings that fit the OD on the R6 wheel and the ID to fit the FJ axle . Well the FJ axle will slide into the R6 axle which made me think why cant I use both to get to where I need to be ??? So to start we measured everything to get chain in line , had to take some off the sprocket side spacer to move it over . Then took the R6 axle and flipped it over and cut off the threaded side and took the chain adjuster blocks and milled it down to for the spacer next to the rear brake hanger . Then made 2 slugs turned down to just match the ID of the R6 axle and bored them out in the center to fit the FJ axle and press fit them in ! Wheel is on and rolls smooth  :good2:
  Need to come up with a new brake stay but think I have it made in my mind just need to make sure it works . On the R6 rear sprocket its a 48T 525 and on the FJ front its a 17T 530 so need to figure out which is the best way to go : Change front to a 520,525 and run bigger size or change rear to smaller size and run 530 ????





movenon

Nice post ! Pictures are worth a thousand words.  :good2:
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

Pat Conlon

Quote from: DreadRock on November 29, 2013, 11:04:47 AM
  On the R6 rear sprocket its a 48T 525 and on the FJ front its a 17T 530 so need to figure out which is the best way to go : Change front to a 520,525 and run bigger size or change rear to smaller size and run 530 ????

Very cool mod, kudos!

The FJ is a realitively heavy machine at 550 lbs with rider, passenger, gear can get over 900 lbs.
The FJ engine's torque is what makes this bike work, and thus, a quality chain is important.
There is a reason a 530 chain is specified for this bike. The lighter sport bikes make do with the 525 but I would hesitate putting the 525 on our bikes. We have too much torque and weight for this chain.
No friggin way would I consider a 520 chain on the FJ. Might as well put a mini bike chain on it.
The largest countershaft sprocket we can fit with the 530 is a 18 tooth.
Can you go to a 19 tooth sprocket with the smaller 525 chain?
Dunno.
Even if you could, the 19 tooth would not be large enough to offset a ginormous 48 tooth rear sprocket, so regardless, you will need to change the back sprocket.
Sprocket Specialists can make a 40-42 tooth sprocket to fit the R-6 rim.

I recommend that you stay with a quality 530 chain (DID ZVM2 or EK ZZZ ) and a new back sprocket.

So now you have the R-6 rear, any thoughts on how are you gonna make a front R-6 rim work with our mechanical speedos?

Again, good work! Cheers. Pat
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

DreadRock

Thanks guys !
    Was talking to my riding and think tank buddy about the rear set up and we are having one small problem . We have the chain in line but on the sprocket side have less then 1/2 inch or smaller from inside swingarm to tire Edge but on other side ( brake ) its half that but not rubbing the inside of swingarm just real close  ! We are going to put the FJ wheel back on to double check are Alignment and spacing !

As for the front the plan is to stay real close to ritters YZF750 front end . From what I've read and seen with USD most seem to short . So going thru part # and reading as seems 98-02 or 3 YzFs forks might work not 100% buy looking . Also wondering if a TRX850 front might work ??? Just not keen on running 2 or 3 inch collors on the forks . But once done a r6 or r1 5 spoke will be on , I guess the way I think about the speedo is its worth losing it , in trade for better Performance ! As I'm sure you know there are a few options to mount a speedo set up . 
And please feel free to straighten me out on any of the mod !

Pat Conlon

On the YZF1000 (aka:ThunderAce) swing arm and rim assembly I used on my bikes, I found that using the Honda VF1000R countershaft sprocket spaced the chain out the correct distance so as to correctly line up with back sprocket.
The VFR sprocket has just the right offset. The oem Honda sprocket is a 17 tooth, but Sprocket Specialists made these up in 18 tooth sprockets.
Using this, the 530 chain clearance with the swing arm and 180/55-17 back tire is very close ~ 1/4 inch, but it works. I do run into chain clearance problems with the wider Dunlop and Avon tires, but with the Michelin tires I run, it is not a problem.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

FJscott

Pat,

regarding the VFR1000R counter sprocket,did you have enough thread engagement for the nut, or did you have to machine a register in the sprocket hub?

Scott

Pat Conlon

I machined in a recess for the lock washer and nut. Simple lathe work but hard, hard material.
I have heard of folks just cutting off the outside shoulder of the sprocket and it will give room ( just barely) for the nut but I believe that the lock washer is important, so a recess is needed.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

DreadRock

Just checking things off to make sure I have it covered : is there any off-set either way on a stock swing arm ?

movenon

Out of memory I just ground the outside boss down flat and with the lock washer it fits up perfect.  But that is the max I would go. I think you end up gaining about 2mm more offset. I think the stock FJ is 10.8 mm total width and the 85-86 Honda VF 1000 total width is 14.5mm but you grind of the outside boss
JT"s web site is good for looking at the spec's.
Here is the Honda profile http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue
Here is the FJ profile http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/2565

Swing arm on mine is center. No offset. Center of the rear wheel aligns with the center of the front wheel. My chain clearance is a hair less that 1/4 " with Michelin tires and no rubbing. 93 GSXR rear wheel and 87/88FZR front wheel.
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

Flynt

Quote from: DreadRock on November 29, 2013, 03:15:51 PM
As for the front the plan is to stay real close to ritters YZF750 front end

'93-'98 and they were all R's in the US, so you'll be getting the KYB sticks.  

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamaha_YZF750

http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_yzf750r%2093.htm

Mine are re-anodized and newly rebuilt with Racetech tubes... also the stacks and compression/rebound valves are custom tuned for the FJ by GP Suspension (said all this before I know).  You might jump straight to Ohlins forks...   :gamer:

Frank
There's plenty of time for sleep in the grave...

DreadRock

  Thanks for all the good info guys  :good2:

  As for the rear wheel did have to make a small adjustment to get the tire centered. In my earlier post I was talking about the tire being closer to one side then the other and it was driving me nuts LOL So after reading more on the FJ.UK site and what they did to solve the problem, I when for it . So we pulled the wheel and milled down the inside of the carrier and the fingers in the wheel . Then trimed down the cush rubber to match to drop the carrier down in the wheel . Had to remake the spacer on the brake side . We used playdo  :rofl2: to check to make sure we have the spacing inside and that nothing was rubbing ! Next will be making a brake stay arm and calling SS to get the new 530 F/B sprockets !




DreadRock

  All right the back R6 wheel is on and ready to go  :good2: Been looking and found a set of 1998 YZF750R forks with lower yoke for ... wait for it.... 175.00 shipped  :wacko3:  They need cleaned and will be putting new oil and seals in them but not springs yet . Want to run them as is for the moment to see which way to go if need with the springs . My guy is stopping by today to have a look at the yoke so I can show him what needs done as i don't have the tools or skills to switch them .Was wondering why do i need to switch but once i got the forks i see why as the FJ1100 stem is 3/4inch longer then the YZFs. Once that's done will be giving AllBalls a call for new seals and head bearings then move on from there. One set back i found when i got the forks was the calipers i had which are R6 and don't mount to the YZF hangers. So will be selling them and find a set of R1s . Now reading "Ritters" build hes calling for " R1 monoblock calipers " is that a diff set of calipers or just a diff way of saying " stock R1 calipers " ?
 
  List of things that need done :
         New seals and bearings
         New brake lines
         New brake pads
         R1 wheel
         Top yoke "Thunderace" or Stuntbike
         Brake stay
         530 Chain and sprocket front and back
         R1 calipers
         Bars and grips
         Front fender
         Tires then ride the HELL OUT OF IT  :yahoo:




Pat Conlon

Monoblocks are the same one piece calipers as the stock R-1's.
Last I spoke with Marc, he decided his 1.0kg/mm fork springs were a bit stiff for street duties so he was going to drop down to .95kg/mm springs. He did mention that the stock (external) adjusters on the YZF750 forks had very little in the range of adjustment on compression and rebound settings, so he sent them up to a company in Oregon for them to install their custom needles and valves giving him a wider range of compression/rebound adjustment.

Frank can chime in here. I believe he did the same with his YZF750 forks.

Cheers
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

DreadRock

Think that's why I'm going to wait and see . I did read that he didn't like the springs he put in the first time and move to diff ones which is why I'm not pulling the trigger on that just yet ! And thanks you for the info !
Well the bottom yoke are off getting switched so should see them back first of the year which give me time to find parts ! No turning back now  :good:

Flynt

Quote from: Pat Conlon on December 18, 2013, 02:14:23 PM
Frank can chime in here. I believe he did the same with his YZF750 forks...

My forks are Marc's backup set and I sent them to GP Suspension (that's the place in Oregon) along with the bent set from Klavdy's incident to get a nice, straight set.  Valve stack is custom and I also dropped the springs to 0.9's (I'm 20# lighter than Marc).  A local guy (Evolution Suspension) tuned the front and rear (Ohlins) for me without issues on adjustment range...

One issue I did run into is the shitty chrome on the stock YZF750 forks...  it got scored up and turned purple, looking like hell and even a bit dangerous maybe.  I replaced the sliders (EXPENSIVE) and things are good for now.

Frank
There's plenty of time for sleep in the grave...