FJ1346 from ashes to... Well, we'll see...

[ribbert]

does anyone know how
to interpret this reading? I've never used a dial indicator like this before and am not sure how to translate
this into a useful number. I set the thing up with the piston level with the lip of the cylinder, indicator
zeroed, and then rotated the crank till I got the max reading...

Are you just looking for the highest point, in which case you have achieved it and don't need a number, or are you measuring something?

Noel

Noel

[skymasteres]

Are you just looking for the highest point, in which case you have achieved it and don't need a number, or are you measuring something?

Noel

I was trying to take a measurement so I could determine how thick a base gasket I need.
I had it zeroed where the piston edge is lined up with the surface of the cylinder block.
Just trying to measure the rise.

I also need to get this one bolt fixed.

[ribbert]

I'm feeling a little chastened over recent advice however no one else seems to have answered you question. I no longer have an imperial gauge but I would read that as .009" / 9/1000ths of an inch.
The face says the increments are half one 1000th of an inch.  If the arc measures "1" for each full revolution of the perimeter hand that would make it .009" which is about 0.23mm.

What doesn't seem right is that would give the gauge a total range of only .060". I'm assuming it was not made for general automotive use, it does look odd.

Noel

[ribbert]

Help! Yeah, that's what this is, a cry for help...

Bad luck, lack of skill, perhaps being too ham fisted. Whatever the problem is I am more than frustrated
at the moment. I was making great progress getting this thing put together and bolt #26 shears in the case...



I was threading it in and it suddenly go sort of "sticky" so I started backing it out to take a look and it
twisted off in the case. Words cannot describe the feeling. This is particularly upsetting since I chased
all of the threads with a tap before I started AND used a micro-pipet attached to my shop vac to remove
any dust and junk from the thread pockets.

I am thinking that I need to get a LH 5mm drill bit and try and drill the thing out. I REALLY don't want to
open this thing back up again, and clean off all the sealant I put on...

Any thoughts?

Removing broken studs is a bit of contentious issue. There is no right or wrong method and everybody has their favourite. It depends on the material, the force being applied when it broke, how long it's been in there, access and whatever you do you DO NOT WANT TO BREAK OFF a drill bit or ezy out in the broken bolt, then you are truly up shit creek.
From the photo it looks like the bolt has already provided a concave centre point on the other piece. If it hasn't, centre punching the bolt accurately is critical.
The good news, from what you describe, is it shouldn't be too difficult to remove if you can get a moderate purchase on it.
If you completely stuff it up and ruin the thread, then we move onto plan B.
It is possible the damage was done when removing it.

[skymasteres]

Thanks Noel,

This gauge is weird because it'll read displacement in both directions once it's zeroed.
Now I just have to figure out what base gasket thicknesses are available.

As far as the bolt is concerned, you're right. The way it failed makes it really easy to
center drill the sucker. I am leaning towards using a 5mm left hand twist drill bit with
a stopper collet attached to the shaft to prevent over penetration, and a brass sleeve
to prevent the sides of the bit from damaging the case. With luck I'll be able to coax
the thing out and keep the threads intact without damaging the case, or having to
take it all apart again.

[racerrad8]

That is a dual sweep dial indicator is used for measuring to a predetermined specifications. The specification is set, the indicator is placed on zero. Depending on the indicator, the red zone could mean too small or too big.

I normally see this type of inductor on the cylinder/bore dial gauges when conducting the cylinder measuring or honing process. You set the indicator at zero being the bore size you want to achieve, then depending on the gauge, you can read how over or undersize the bore it.

Without knowing the indicator it is too difficult to determine by that photo of what you have there.

Randy - RPM

[fintip]

I've read this whole thread, probably twice, and have kept up with it through every post...

...But there's enough of a gap in my knowledge (I've never seen cases split with my own eyes, just in forum posts and the odd howstuffworks article and motorcycle manuals) that so much of it is incomprehensible to me. I feel so out of context.

One day...

Anyways. On with the show. Boy do I hate a broken stud, there's a problem I can understand. 

[SlowOldGuy]

I was threading it in and it suddenly go sort of "sticky" so I started backing it out to take a look and it
twisted off in the case.

Is that anti-sieze on the bolt?  If so, then I can't see it gaulling on the threads. 

Do you think the bolt (is that a cylinder stud?) might have bottomed out in the case?  I would think the threads can't be in very good shape after causing the bolt to snap like that.  You might want to start thinking about a helicoil or TimeSert repair.

Good luck.  Sucks that it happened just when you finally got some assembly velocity going.  :-(

DavidR.

[skymasteres]

I was threading it in and it suddenly go sort of "sticky" so I started backing it out to take a look and it
twisted off in the case.

Is that anti-sieze on the bolt?  If so, then I can't see it gaulling on the threads.  

Do you think the bolt (is that a cylinder stud?) might have bottomed out in the case?  I would think the threads can't be in very good shape after causing the bolt to snap like that.  You might want to start thinking about a helicoil or TimeSert repair.

Good luck.  Sucks that it happened just when you finally got some assembly velocity going.  :-(

DavidR.

Nope, not anti seize. I think it just got all jacked up with the case sealant. I don't think it bottomed out. But then again I'm not sure.
It could have been a hole that I messed cleaning up. There are a lot of things that could have happened. Maybe the bolt was
damaged. Bottome line, all further threadsare getting chased twice to make sure this doesn't hapen again...

[skymasteres]

Okay, so I have been making a little bit of progress behind the scenes. Ended up ordering a LH twist drill bet set off of ebay.
(After going through half a dozen different venders and finding that most wanted a $25 minimum order)

Here is a better view of the bolt in the hole. (You can almost make out the pocket in the bolt shaft where it sheared. )



The bits should be coming in tonight so I'll be able to get that thing out and move on.

Additionally I did finally get everything bolted together so that I could get an accurate displacement on the piston with respect
to the cylinder block.



There was much more phutzing around with this than there should have been but it eventually worked.
The suggestion for using PVC worked great.  I ended up with this as a reading



Long story short, base gaskets have been ordered, now I have to figure out how the rings go into the pistons.
(Which side goes up and all)

[racerrad8]

There was much more phutzing around with this than there should have been but it eventually worked.
The suggestion for using PVC worked great.  I ended up with this as a reading



Long story short, base gaskets have been ordered, now I have to figure out how the rings go into the pistons.
(Which side goes up and all)

Okay, I have a couple of questions...

1 - Which way does the dial indicator needle sweep? Is that a reading of .014 or .016".
2 - Is that the reading of the piston down in the cylinder or sticking out above the deck?
3 - Is the currently a base gasket installed?
4 - Have you buttoned it all together and filled the cylinders to find the CC displacement for the compression ratio?

I ask because the domes look like they are stock and with that big dome you might be exceeding 13:1 compression ratio.

Also, that piston is in backwards...

Randy - RPM

[JMR]

I'd invest in a 1" dial indicator. Christ.....you can get one for 15.00. It will serve well for cam timing too.

[ribbert]

Just how does that dial indicator give you a reading at that angle?

[FJmonkey]

Just how does that dial indicator give you a reading at that angle?

That is how they work, think cantilever, tilt, up/down travel is converted to distance traveled.

[ribbert]

Just how does that dial indicator give you a reading at that angle?

That is how they work, think cantilever, tilt, up/down travel is converted to distance traveled.

So it would need to be flat?