UNI PODS, manual Fuel pet cock, case breather

[Signaller]

Good day folk,
1.      I haven't posted in some time now, but I have been doing allot of reading of late.

2.      I just received the materials mentioned above, as well, as the foam filter oil from Randy. Thanks Randy.

3.      I will be doing the install of these parts next weekend.

4.      1986 FJ 1200 - Current exhaust and intake configuration as fol:
         a.      Stainless Steal (S/S) one piece Super trapp pipe on which I can place up to 21 disks;and
         b.      There is a K & N air filter in the air box.

5.      Current situation - I do not know what the PO had done to the carburetors in the way of modifications to make this work, but it seems to work well. I bought the filters so that I can put in the replacement "manual Fuel petcock" and, I think, it will make it easier for maintenance in the future. I have the "Manual Fuel petcock" because I do not trust the vacuum diaphragm units and I like positive control of the fuel valve. It "feels like" it should be part of the natural start up procedure for a bike. (just my thoughts)

6.      Questions as fol:
         a.     With the UNI POD's installed do you think I will need to do much in the way of playing with the jetting? Keeping in mind that the SuperTrapp is tunable.
         b.      Does anyone out there have a S/S SuperTrapp pipe and what number of disks do you use on your system. This would be especially interesting if you are using the UNI POD's as well.


Thanks for your time.

Dan

[Pat Conlon]

Question: How are you planning on to turning off your manual petcock?

[Signaller]

Hi,
     I read on another post, sometime ago" that another member had done this. He took out the screen on the top left hand side of the side cover which allowed him access to the valve.



Dan

[andyb]

Yup, the jetting likely will need some adjustment.  You can get by not  touching it, but it really defeats the purpose of modifying things only to make things run worse rather than getting more power.

Once you get into the carbs and see what's there, there's a number of posts that will give you comparable examples to use as starting points.  Proper answer is to spend a mint on dyno time, but if you're ok with tinkering, you can dial it in pretty well yourself.

[Signaller]

Thanks for the feed back Andy. I kinda knew the answer... I just wanted to hear something else. I guess I will be getting familure with the carbs now.



Dan

[Harvy]

Dan.....once you know what's in your carbs, here are my carb contents with UNI dual pods and 4-1 system.

108 main jets
45 pilot jets
3rd clip position
3.5 turns out on air screws.
Factory Pro needles and emulsion tubes.

for my FJ this gives me good air/fuel mixture to 1/2 throttle and a whisker rich above that.

HTH

Harvy

[racerrad8]

Harvy,

Are those DJ jets as Mikuni does not offer 108.

Randy -,RPM

[Harvy]

Randy....yes they are....apologies.

[Signaller]

Harvy, Randy,
      Thanks for your input.

Randy,
      I plan on doing this through you and your kit.

All,
      I will be getting on the installs this coming weekend. I will let you know what the results are next Monday.



Dan

[Signaller]

Well folks,
        I've failed. Mother nature decided to dump 6 inches of snow in Redbridge Ontario this weekend. I don't have a garage yet and with the bike under a tarp I could not get to work on my beast. My apologies. On the up side, I will be retiring soon (30 Apr 12) and I will have all summer to work on her and converse  with you. I do have a little to report. I have oiled the UNI filters and checked how the new "manual" tank valve will fit. It seems that I will have to do some modification of the petcock hole, the screen of the petcock does not fit in the hole so I will have to do some drilling. FYI I will be drilling a second tank that I have and it has not had fuel in it for sometime now. There are no detectable (read by nose) fumes. That Air box looks like its going to be a beast to take out.

      This report is "just so ya know"

      Thanks fellas, (by the way, Are there any girls on this site?) A female rider may inspire my wife.

[Pat Conlon]

That Air box looks like its going to be a beast to take out.   

No worries Dan, it's only 107*f here in the desert at the moment.  Waaay to hot for April.

The air box is easy-peesey.....
1) Loosen the 4 carb clamps on the airbox.
2) Remove the airbox filter side cover.
3) Loosen the lower squeeze clamp on the crankcase breather hose.
4) Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the subframe.
5) Remove the 2 upper subframe bolts and slightly loosen (don't remove) the 2 lower sub frame bolts
6) Now push your subframe down. This will give you clearance to pull the airbox off the carbs and rotate the box to slide out of the subframe rails.  The breather hose will come off with the airbox.

Cheers laddie!  Pat

[Signaller]

Pat,
      You are one handy fellow. Thanks for your info. The job now feels as though it will be "easy pessey" thank you very much. I will be finishing my Administrative and equipment clearances from DND this week. I look forward to stepping into the foray with those instructions next weekend when I get home. (Currently in Toronto Ontario)

Thanks
Dan

[ribbert]

That Air box looks like its going to be a beast to take out.   

No worries Dan, it's only 107*f here in the desert at the moment.  Waaay to hot for April.

The air box is easy-peesey.....
1) Loosen the 4 carb clamps on the airbox.
2) Remove the airbox filter side cover.
3) Loosen the lower squeeze clamp on the crankcase breather hose.
4) Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the airbox to the subframe.
5) Remove the 2 upper subframe bolts and slightly loosen (don't remove) the 2 lower sub frame bolts
6) Now push your subframe down. This will give you clearance to pull the airbox off the carbs and rotate the box to slide out of the subframe rails.  The breather hose will come off with the airbox.

Cheers laddie!  Pat

Exactly what Pat says except I don't find the need to loosen the lower bolts.
However, if you bike is a late model (rubber mounted motor) you will need to remove the muffler mounting bolts as well (easy) and makes removing / replacing the airbox a piece of cake.
Noel

[Signaller]

Noel,
      Thank you, If I was in Redbridge right now I would rush out and check what you are saying. The question is "Will I have those same "muffler mounting bolts" if I have an after-market header (S/S SuperTrapp)


Dan

[ribbert]

Yes, someone will chime in with more detail. but I think on the earlier bikes the exhaust mounted from the footrest bracket and the later ones from the rear subframe.
I mentioned this because if you do as Pat says, and have the later bike, the subframe will still be held up some by the exhaust.
Trying to remove and refit the airbox without lowering the subframe is enough to make you want to throw the whole bike over the fence. Once you have de-mystified this procedure, it literally takes a couple of minutes.
Noel