UNI PODS, manual Fuel pet cock, case breather

[SlowOldGuy]

Unless you spend all your time at WOT, the needle height is the much more important adjustment!

Get that right and you'll never even notice the main jet.

I would recommend 117.5 to 122.5 on the mains and 40 idle jets.  With the 40 idle jets you should not have to change the air pilot jet (155), but if you do, smaller is richer on that jet.

Whatever you do, shim or adjust the needles first.

DavidR.

[Signaller]

Randy, DavidR, and Andyb,
1.   Thank you very very much for your input. I decided to order the fol:
      a.  the O-Ring and S/S screw kit;
      b.  inlet screens X 2 (I have 3 x spare individual carbs that I have been playing with and there were 2 x good ones in them)
      c.  main jets X 4 (122.5)
      d.  pilot jets X 4 (42.5)
      e.  exhaust gaskets X 4 (I want to take the system off to do a good cleaning)
      f.   Valve Cover Bolt Grommet X 8 (I have a little leaking so I want to replace them all)

Randy,
2.    The order is in.

All,
3.   I am waiting "with bated breath" for my parts. I will let you know how the installs go. Thanks for reading my posts.


Dan

[SlowOldGuy]

Just curious if anyone else out there is using 42.5 idle jets?

I always caution against over jetting it can cause tuning problems.  I've seen a lot of carbs that were overjetted and I couldn't get the idle mixture lean enough without the idle quality suffering. 

I wouldn't think even a hopped up motor would need idle jets much bigger than stock.  If the idle circuit is jetted too rich, it will smell like raw fuel.  Since the idle mixture screws are controlling an air/fuel mixture, screwing them in "may" not provide the solution since the mixture is overly rich due to the large jets.  In order to get it lean enough, the screws are practically closed which is not a good running setting.

If you've only got a pipe and filters, go with the 40s.  They are working quite well in both of my FJs.

Pat, this could be some of your problem we've been PM-ing!

DavidR.

[andyb]

I'm happier with the 42.5's myself.  With the 40's, the mix screws had to be way, way out, and they bike still wouldn't cruise smoothly.

Also depends on your fuel quality, I'd guess.  

[Signaller]

AndyB/DavidR,
      Excellent feed back. Thanks. BTW I still have the #40 pilot jets to play with. So I will be putting things together first with them then go to the 42.5's. I originally got them because they were inexpensive and they will give me some wiggle room when I start tinkering.
      Im not sure what the octane ratings are here in Canada but there are always 3 grades available and I alway use the best grade available.
      So... with playing with the jetting and the S/S SuperTrapp and upto 20 disks to play with this is going to be a "witches brew" of a tinkering opportunity. Im soooo looking forward to the experiment (s).


Dan

[RichBaker]

Just curious if anyone else out there is using 42.5 idle jets?

I always caution against over jetting it can cause tuning problems.  I've seen a lot of carbs that were overjetted and I couldn't get the idle mixture lean enough without the idle quality suffering.  

I wouldn't think even a hopped up motor would need idle jets much bigger than stock.  If the idle circuit is jetted too rich, it will smell like raw fuel.  Since the idle mixture screws are controlling an air/fuel mixture, screwing them in "may" not provide the solution since the mixture is overly rich due to the large jets.  In order to get it lean enough, the screws are practically closed which is not a good running setting.

If you've only got a pipe and filters, go with the 40s.  They are working quite well in both of my FJs.  Pat, this could be some of your problem we've been PM-ing!

DavidR.

40s in my '90, D&D 4-2-1, UNI pods, DYNA 2k/coils/Taylor wires.  My A/F screws are all ~1 turn out..... 42.5s would be too much for mine.

In my experience and everything I've read by acknowledged Industry experts say the ideal is between 1 & 2 turns out.

It used to be a well-known fact that the big-bore bikes had lean pilots because they were/are the circuit mainly used for the EPA emissions certification testing. Big-bores never see the RPMs go high enough to get into the needles, let alone main jets.  Seems that now, 10 - 15 years later, this is forgotten....  Electronics changed a lot of things.

[andyb]

In my experience and everything I've read by acknowledged Industry experts say the ideal is between 1 & 2 turns out.

I've never heard anyone ever say that more than 2 turns out is too much.  Over 4 turns, yes, as they become non-linear and don't do a lot out that far.  I've heard that you can often choose between two pilots if you want, like a 40 with 3 turns out or a 42 with 1.5 turns out should be pretty close to the same mixture.

I endlessly tried the 40's, and it's possible that there's some other factor that we're not allowing for, but anything from 1 turn to 5 turns didn't give a smooth cruise.  I stuck 42's in it and had an immediate improvement with things set from 2-3 turns out (started at 2.5 iirc and tweaked until the idle quality was what I wanted).  So it's definitely possible at times to need a different pilot!  I'll admit that I never put the 40's up to inspection on an optical comparitor, microscope, etc, and I only had one set... maybe one was manufactured poorly?

Of semi-related note, I ride down to the St Louis area about once a year.  The bike I ride tends to get 44-46mpg in IL on the ride down, and 49-50mpg on the way back.  I'm guessing that it's not a consistent wind problem, but related to the quality of fuel somehow differing between the two areas.  Haven't been to a dragstrip on MO fuel to know for sure (I'd have to bring a pail back to try at the local track here to really know, rather than a track that I haven't tested at before).  

Big-bores never see the RPMs go high enough to get into the needles, let alone main jets.  Seems that now, 10 - 15 years later, this is forgotten....  Electronics changed a lot of things.

Am I the only person that goes WFO near the redline?  Maybe it's because I race regularly... but having the right main jet makes the difference between pulling hard to redline and either falling flat early or misfiring rich when the needles top out.... Why on earth would anyone spend the money and time on an exhaust and good filters only to not bother on $20 worth of brass to take advantage?  That's all of the negatives without getting any of the positives (other than weight loss, I suppose)!!

[SlowOldGuy]

Am I the only person that goes WFO near the redline?  Maybe it's because I race regularly...

When I'm out riding, I rarely use anything past 1/4 throttle.  1/4 throttle on an FJ carries more than enough speed.  And accelerating through a curve, anything more than that will break the rear end loose.

I understand your racing scenario, but WFO does not belong on the street. 

DavidR.

[Pat Conlon]

Pat, this could be some of your problem we've been PM-ing!

Hey David, my pilots are currently 40's. I don't think I want the 38.5's out here in the desert summer heat....so I've currently got the air screws set at 1.5 turns out and it *seems* to have solved the problem of rich idle. I'll know more after this weekend when I put some miles on her.

If not...I don't want to go any further in with the air screws....I'll change the 155 air bleed jets to the leaner 160's, but as of now, it seems fine.

As I expected, all customary jetting for the FJ using the BS36's is out the window with the big 1350 pump.

After the upcoming WCR/Colorado trip the new engine should be well seasoned... I'll get her over to a dyno, then with O2 sensors and a/f readings we can see exactly where we are...  I like my stock headpipes, they have provisions for a O2 sensor in each tube. Kinda cool.

Thanks again David....and Frank!

[andyb]

Am I the only person that goes WFO near the redline?  Maybe it's because I race regularly...

When I'm out riding, I rarely use anything past 1/4 throttle.  1/4 throttle on an FJ carries more than enough speed.  And accelerating through a curve, anything more than that will break the rear end loose.

I understand your racing scenario, but WFO does not belong on the street. 

DavidR.

I think you're wrong, and you think I'm wrong.  But I'll bet the reality is because of the roads we ride.  There's not enough twisties in the north half of IL to last more than 20min if you strung them all together!  I'll agree that there's not much brains in using the entire motor when you're in the twisties, but there's a time and place for it (merging onto I294 would be a good example!).  More importantly to me is that when I ask the bike to give me all it's got, I want to get all I can.  I don't often need 100% of my brakes, but it's sure nice to have them working optimally when you want them all!

[SlowOldGuy]

Peace Andy.

And, I forgot about the car passing scenario. :-)

DavidR.

[RichBaker]

In my experience and everything I've read by acknowledged Industry experts say the ideal is between 1 & 2 turns out.

I've never heard anyone ever say that more than 2 turns out is too much.  Over 4 turns, yes, as they become non-linear and don't do a lot out that far.  I've heard that you can often choose between two pilots if you want, like a 40 with 3 turns out or a 42 with 1.5 turns out should be pretty close to the same mixture.

I said IDEAL, nothing else......... ideal.

Big-bores never see the RPMs go high enough to get into the needles, let alone main jets.  Seems that now, 10 - 15 years later, this is forgotten....  Electronics changed a lot of things.

Am I the only person that goes WFO near the redline?  Maybe it's because I race regularly... but having the right main jet makes the difference between pulling hard to redline and either falling flat early or misfiring rich when the needles top out.... Why on earth would anyone spend the money and time on an exhaust and good filters only to not bother on $20 worth of brass to take advantage?  That's all of the negatives without getting any of the positives (other than weight loss, I suppose)!!

You cut the MOST important part of that quote, the part where I said that the EPA test NEVER GETS INTO THE NEEDLES.....  If you want to make me look bad, do it where you may actually know what you're talking about! Don't be putting words into, or taking them out, of my post!!!

I said NOTHING about real-world use...  quit being a jackass!  Everything you quoted, I was talking about the testing EPA does to certify a vehicle for emissions..... If you had understood me, you would have realized that I was stating that the Mains and needles are pretty dang close to perfect for the STOCK engine.  Reading comprehension is Fundamental....

[andyb]

You cut the MOST important part of that quote, the part where I said that the EPA test NEVER GETS INTO THE NEEDLES.....  If you want to make me look bad, do it where you may actually know what you're talking about! Don't be putting words into, or taking them out, of my post!!!

I said NOTHING about real-world use...  quit being a jackass!  Everything you quoted, I was talking about the testing EPA does to certify a vehicle for emissions..... If you had understood me, you would have realized that I was stating that the Mains and needles are pretty dang close to perfect for the STOCK engine.  Reading comprehension is Fundamental....

My apologies, rich.  I was wondering what kind of rider everyone was if they weren't using the needles and mains.  The way I read your statement was in two separate ideas, not reading both as being connected by the idea of EPA testing.  Wasn't entirely sure how EPA testing done to a spec 20 years ago on an unmodified machine was relevant, and that made it harder to follow.

So no, I didn't understand, because it wasn't worded clearly to me.