UNI PODS, manual Fuel pet cock, case breather

[Pat Conlon]

Exactly what Pat says except I don't find the need to loosen the lower bolts.
However, if you bike is a late model (rubber mounted motor) you will need to remove the muffler mounting bolts as well (easy) and makes removing / replacing the airbox a piece of cake.
Noel

Yeppers, a good point Noel ....

Dan has a '86 with the exhaust supported by the aluminum side brackets, so he should be ok moving the subframe without messing with the muffler mounts. As Noel points out, the later year FJ's have a different subframe..

[andyb]

Huh, so those kits that replace the exhaust mounts with a pivot that you guys have been mocking all these years really is a good idea!

And you laughed at the idea of muffler bearings.

[fj11.5]

think he will be storing the airbox,and using pod filters,,,, much easier to work around        ....And you laughed at the idea of muffler bearings.   quote,,,,, i must know more   

[Signaller]

Update:
       So I have installed the UNI Pods, manual petcock and case filter.

Pat,
       Taking that air box out was very simple, thanks for the input.

Hary,
       I have not taken the carbs apart yet to check sizes of jets.

I have taken the bike out for a couple of rides and there does not seem to be any problems yet. The bike feels strong throughout the rev range. I'm still apprehensive about taking apart the carbs to look at things as it may/will cut into my ride time.

Problems:
      Pay attention when putting the clamps back on the intake manifolds, ensure that the tightening screws are out of the way of the "throttle" plate as it rotates up. I had tightened the clamp in the wrong position and it stopped my throttle from turning. I was anxious to get things going so I twisted harder. Then the throttle was loose.... and I mean loose... like broken loose... So... I took everything apart and fixed the clamps properly out of the way. I then looked at the throttle cables. There is a white "slider" box which connects the ends of the cables from the carbs to the throttle. I used epoxy cold weld to rebuild the "slider" to hold the ends of the cables together.

Lessons Learned:
1.     Put things back together properly. Don't be in a hurry.
2.     If something is obviously stuck don't force it.

Question:
       Do you think that I will have problems with the motor if I do not have a closer look at the carb jetting?

Thanks everybody. Dan

[Harvy]

Dan, just as a precaution, check your spark plugs - make sure you are not running TOO lean. I have one of those cable boxes floating around in the shed somewhere if yours decides to break again....... let me know if you need it.

Harvy

[Signaller]

Harvy,
    Thanks for the advice to check the plugs. They are white as snow... guess I will be learning about the carbs... sigh...

    I will review the files for procedures.


Thanks everybody.

Dan

[Signaller]

Good day folks,
(Following is an update)
1.      I sucked up some courage and dove into the carbs. I fold the following:

- 120 main jets(no other markings)
- 40 pilot jets (has a stamp of a box with a little box inside)
- 3rd clip position (5 positions avail and a thin washer on top of the clip) - has the box symbol and 5FZ74
- turns out on air screws (not sure. Have not played with it yet)
- Main Jet is a 120 (no other markings)

2.      There was allot of "brown stuff" in the float bowls. I cleaned everything up with carb cleaner including the choke circuit.

3.      I removed the Emulsion tubes and cleaned them up as well as the port it resides in.

4.      As a side note to this my SuperTrapp has 8 disks on it. I have upto 22 available to adjust.

5.      So what is the next suggested move in parts. How big should I go with new parts from Randy?

6.      Pat, Harvy, and Randy thanks for getting me this far.

Dan (the retired Signaller)

[Signaller]

Good day folks,
      I've delved a little deeper into the carbs and also have found the fol:
      a.      155 air bleed jets
      b.      the float jets are 2.3 (need new screens for them)

      Per my previous post, has anyone got any thoughts as to what parts (jets sizes) I should order from Randy?
      A Course of action (COA) would be handy about now.

Thanks
    Dan

[craigo]

     A Course of action (COA) would be handy about now.

Thanks
   Dan

Dan,

AndyB posted somewhere on here with about everything you need to know about the carbs. From specs to rebuild instructions.  I downloaded it and saved it as a PDF, but it's on the home PC and I'm at work.

This might answer your current question, but really, search for that posting:

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=1974.0

Andy, do you know where that got put? I gave a quick search and no luck.

Thanks,

CraigO

[Signaller]

CraigO,
      yup I read that article about 10 times. My concern with that information is that it does not always use jet sizes particular to Randy's catalogue of parts. In fact earlier in this chain someone made reference to a jet size which is not a mikuni size (an observation made by Randy). There is considerable info in the "Files section", specifically in a Child directory for Carburetors and I have read (not necessarily understood) everything.  Thanks for the attempt.

All,
     I guess I'm looking for a start point with jet sizes. There is plenty of information to work through the tuning part and (I think...) I have cleaned everything.

     I'm planning to get the S/S screws and gasket kit for the carbs, as a start. Would going up 1 size in all cases for jets be sufficient to start tinkering?

[racerrad8]

You are pretty good on the jetting, you might need to enrich the main jet slightly, but it depends on what altitude the majority of your riding occurs and the atmospheric conditions you ride in.

You might just start with rebuilding what you have with the o-ring & S/S screw kit and the four (4) inlet screens.

Randy - RPM

[Signaller]

Randy,
      Thanks for getting back to me. Most of my driving will be at the 600 to 900 foot level. As for atmospheric conditions... ANY THING GOD can send me. Im not a fair weather rider. I will be ordering those items tomorrow. I just want to have a complete order to put in. I understand that carburetor tuning is an art so what works for one person does not always work for another. Suggested items are appreciated.



Dan

[racerrad8]

As for atmospheric conditions... ANY THING GOD can send me. Im not a fair weather rider.

But what is the norm...Desert dry air or rainy moist air?

Randy - RPM

[Signaller]

Randy,
      The quick answer would be neither. I live in northern Ontario. The average daily temp from April to Oct (bike season) will run from 4 to 27 deg C. (where at 0 water freezes and 21 is room temp). Average humidity would be right in the middle of the two extremes you mentioned.

      I'm not looking for "highest" performance gains. This bike is already "stupid fast". I just want her to be content with easier breathing and proper setup.

Dan

[andyb]

If you're around that 500-1000' elevation, but are okay with riding in 100F heat at max humidity and 45F with little humidity, you're probably running in a corrected altitude of -250 to 3500 or so.  Where you decide to zero in on is up to you, as pretty much all carb adjustments are just a compromise.

A set of 122.5 mikuni jets (rather than the possibly generic ones you have in there?) will be about in the middle of that range, a little rich on hot days and a little lean in the cold.  Pilots will want to be 40's most likely, but you may find 42.5's are needed if the mix screws end up wanting to be really far out.  Needle position is harder to describe.  If you've got adjustable needles, find out what the stock spec is and go up a half or whole step (needle goes up, clip goes down, for reference).

Honestly, what you have already shouldn't be too far off from the sounds of it.  Plugs should only very slightly colored.