Project Motor Swap

[racerrad8]

Decided to split the old cases one more time. The o-ring in the center was right there where it was supposed to be.

It must be the anti-seize you used on the spark plugs...

Randy - RPM

[FJ1200W]

Decided to split the old cases one more time. The o-ring in the center was right there where it was supposed to be.

It must be the anti-seize you used on the spark plugs...

Randy - RPM

That must be it!

Seriously, modern spark plugs don't need it. The black ones usually do.

And if you use it, make sure it is conductive and be extra careful when tightening.

[racerrad8]

Seriously, modern spark plugs don't need it. The black ones usually do.

Oh I know, I have posted the fact with the NGK website specifically saying nothing is to be added to the threads.

Maybe I search for it over the weekend...

Randy - RPM

[FJ1200W]

Seriously, modern spark plugs don't need it. The black ones usually do.

Oh I know, I have posted the fact with the NGK website specifically saying nothing is to be added to the threads.

Maybe I search for it over the weekend...

Randy - RPM

You're correct and there is no reason anyone should question the fact.

Let me save you some time -

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

[Old Rider]

Decided to split the old cases one more time.

I'm glad I saved the box for the bolts.

The o-ring in the center was right there where it was supposed to be.

Triple checking everything else.

Nice work !
Always fun to split the cases several times i think i had to split them 3 times when i did my engine.
About the lose oilpump gear  check that  the splines on the axle are in good shape and the lockwasher for wear. When i did my engine rebuild i noticed that the gear was very lose.It is supposed to be a little loose but not excessive.
i found that some splines was broken. it is hard to see with naked eye (at least my eyes =) )
I ended up buying a brand new oilpump from RPM .


On the pick i see bearingshell on 2-3-4 journals is gone most likely vacum glued them self on the crank journals but i guess you are aware of that

one more tip but i guess you are not going to paint the cylinderstuds since they look nice .But if you do don't do same mistake i did and that is painting the 2 studs on the right side of engine where the oil flows. i did and the paint flaked off and ended in the oil-filtercasing. I had gray and black particles in the oil-filtercasing and that was a mix of gray zinkbased paint as i used as primer and black heat resistant enginepaint. I don't think it did any damage to engine anyway but could have blocked oilgalley.

[Old Rider]

I also use a little copper anti size on sparkplugs.I use 15 Nm instead og 17.5NM when tourque them
I check plugs often and if i dont use copperpaste i notised the plugs not tread smoth.
her is a pick of my plugs i cleaned some days ago.

[ribbert]

I also use a little copper anti size on sparkplugs.

As do I and many others. There will always be two schools of thought on this but it's interesting to note that Lycoming and Continental require it be used on their engines.
NGK claim 100% of damaged plugs returned to them show signs over tightening, the easiest way to combat that was to make it more difficult to do by recommending not using it. Easier than educating ham fisted installers.


Use it, don't use it, it doesn't really matter but keep in mind, the warning from the manufacturer is to protect their arse, not to improve your experience with their product. Think of the ridiculous washing /drying/ care instructions on a T-shirt, the "Objects are closer......." warning on car mirrors, safety warnings, telling you not to put your 55" TV in your ear or that it's not to be eaten or washed with a garden hose and so on.

Brake Pad instructions say they are only to be fitted by a licenced or suitably qualified mechanic. Who do you reckon they're looking out for there?

Bills thoughts below are interesting.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16749.msg169565#msg169565

Noel

[FJ1200W]

Decided to split the old cases one more time.

I'm glad I saved the box for the bolts.

The o-ring in the center was right there where it was supposed to be.

Triple checking everything else.

Nice work !
Always fun to split the cases several times i think i had to split them 3 times when i did my engine.
About the lose oilpump gear  check that  the splines on the axle are in good shape and the lockwasher for wear. When i did my engine rebuild i noticed that the gear was very lose.It is supposed to be a little loose but not excessive.
i found that some splines was broken. it is hard to see with naked eye (at least my eyes =) )
I ended up buying a brand new oilpump from RPM .


On the pick i see bearingshell on 2-3-4 journals is gone most likely vacum glued them self on the crank journals but i guess you are aware of that

one more tip but i guess you are not going to paint the cylinderstuds since they look nice .But if you do don't do same mistake i did and that is painting the 2 studs on the right side of engine where the oil flows. i did and the paint flaked off and ended in the oil-filtercasing. I had gray and black particles in the oil-filtercasing and that was a mix of gray zinkbased paint as i used as primer and black heat resistant enginepaint. I don't think it did any damage to engine anyway but could have blocked oilgalley.

Oil pump - Seems to only be a little play in and out with the shaft. Oil pump looks nearly new. I'm calling that good!

Yes, good catch on the bearings. That's exactly where they went.

The only mistake I'm making with the studs is using the APE ones that came in the motor due to budgetary concerns. Hopefully they'll be fine.

[FJ1200W]

Shout out to Robert - Thank you for the answer to my question.

I'm pretty sure my google pixel phone was created by Satan himself. I'm trying to address the issue with speaking and not being heard by powering off my phone daily.

I'll try it, if that does not work, it might make for a great skeet target.

Made some more progress - Engine cases assembled. Clutch installed. Ready for the cylinders next.

I need to find a 81mm ball hone somewhere, measure the piston height, then start on the head.

Butcher paper comes in real handy, I have a roll close and Sam's Club type stores have it pretty cheap. I like to use it as a work surface (like cleaning bolts, as shown on FJowners) and then just toss it away when it gets too contaminated. I also use it to cover/protect parts while waiting for the next phase.

Also, "Pet Pads" also work very well. I used them under leaky bikes.

The previous owner had painted the oil pan, I'm trying to leave it as original as possible. I could not stand the point on the cooler ports so those I cleaned up.

Overall it's been a awesome day.

[FJ1200W]

Degree wheel adapter: Complete
Spin on filter adapter: Installed

[aviationfred]

A good addition to the spin on oil filter adaptors is the magnetic washer. Slide it over the threaded nipple before you install the filter. It really works at catching super fine metal.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39


Fred

[FJ1200W]

A good addition to the spin on oil filter adaptors is the magnetic washer. Slide it over the threaded nipple before you install the filter. It really works at catching super fine metal.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39


Fred

Thanks Fred!

[FJ1200W]

Making the adapter for the degree wheel was very satisfying.

It's all off now but should work fine. 

I ordered a 3 1/4" 320 grit flex hone today, it''s not due in until next Thursday. Then I can wrap the cylinders up.

The head could be worked on, the plan is to install new seals and a couple other things

[FJ1200W]

I send the cams out to have the journals polished.
When I pulled the sprockets I realized they were "customized" to be made adjustable.
Cha-Ching

[Pat Conlon]

Hey Steve, FYI here's a 11 year old post which might interest you...

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=712.0

Cheers!