Project Motor Swap

[PaulG]

Mail came early today -

Hylomar came recommended and what is that in front of the can?

More boxes due tomorrow

Well to me it looks like a burette clamp for lab analysis.   

[FJ1200W]

Well to me it looks like a burette clamp for lab analysis.   

Winner winner chicken dinner!

[fj1289]

I think you've got enough for that 100 mph in the 1/8th. 

My street bike setup was:
1314 engine, street ported head with drop-in mega cycle cams and flat side carbs.
Front end strapped and rear lowered with longer links and an air shifter


Best run was at Bandimere (5,800' elevation):
60'         1.6670   
330'       4.4890
1/8        6.8910   @  101.94
1/4       10.7950  @  124.67

I think you'll have plenty of power closer to sea level. 

Excellent information, thank you!

What gearing did you go with?

Pretty sure I was 16/42.  May want to try 17/41 or 42.  Sometimes gearing too steep can make it less forgiving and harder to be consistent.   

[PaulG]

Well to me it looks like a burette clamp for lab analysis.   

Winner winner chicken dinner!

As long as it doesn't come in a bucket I'm good with that!  So next question .... what purpose does it serve for the FJ?  RPM gave a hint, but I'm not a member of The Super Secret Guild Of Extraordinary Mechanic Guru Guys & Girls.  Fit that on a T shirt.

[FJ1200W]

As long as it doesn't come in a bucket I'm good with that!  So next question .... what purpose does it serve for the FJ?  RPM gave a hint, but I'm not a member of The Super Secret Guild Of Extraordinary Mechanic Guru Guys & Girls.  Fit that on a T shirt.

The part mounts on a rod and is easily adjustable allowing for a variety of mounting options.

It's used to hold the graduated cylinder (aka Burette or buret) used to measure the combustion chamber volume accurately.

[FJ1200W]

Burette finally FINALLY arrived
I almost cried.....

[fj1289]

Maybe try a steady hand and a finely graduated syringe?

[FJ1200W]

Maybe try a steady hand and a finely graduated syringe?

I tried but was not pleased with the consistency.

JB Weld might work - that's my Go-2!  

I'll try some shrink tubing to hold it together, then JB's over that.

Crossing my fingers.......

[ribbert]

Maybe try a steady hand and a finely graduated syringe?

I tried but was not pleased with the consistency.

JB Weld might work - that's my Go-2!  

I'll try some shrink tubing to hold it together, then JB's over that.

Crossing my fingers.......

That's bad luck, you didn't happen to share that old Missourian saying with the company you bought it from did you? 

I don't think heat shrink will work in that location. This is one of those applications where cyanoacrylate glues work best, they seem to perform really well on that sort of break. You could then use something like JB to "gusset" the join externally and give some added strength (as long as whatever you use will stick to glass and set hard)

I hear someone facetiously speculated about me owning one. Well, much to his disappointment, I do. (and somewhere, even a stand and a piece of drilled acrylic)



Noel

[FJ1200W]

Finally - I added another layer of JB Weld "Plastic Bonder" which did not mention glass specifically but it stuck like nobodies business.  
Then it was wrapped with self-fusing silicone tape from Walmart
https://www.duckbrand.com/products/paint-diy-tapes/drywall-plumbing-repair/black-1-in-x-10-ft-20-mil
Tomorrow it should be good to go - or broken.

[FJ1200W]

Also on my last ride, the fork seal started leaking again.

I tried the plastic tool, it worked for a bit, time to just do it right.

Found a complete kit online at a fair price. Bushings, seals, etc.

I'm not a fan of the odor of old fork oil.

Blah!

[FJ1200W]

Ordered up a replacement rotary tool.
As soon at it arrives I hope to get back to my project.
I've got to get the compression ratio figured out and then decide to keep it "as is" or
E85 sounds promising

[JMR]

Surprised there are stock size valves in there....OS intakes with seat boring to .9 of new valve OD makes a big difference. FJ's run hot normally.....getting almost 12:1 CR with the increased bore is kinda of a gamble. Pray for no traffic jams. I have a 1314 FJ with with about 10:75.....watching the oil temp gauge in any type of stop and go is scary.

[FJ1200W]

Surprised there are stock size valves in there....OS intakes with seat boring to .9 of new valve OD makes a big difference. FJ's run hot normally.....getting almost 12:1 CR with the increased bore is kinda of a gamble. Pray for no traffic jams. I have a 1314 FJ with with about 10:75.....watching the oil temp gauge in any type of stop and go is scary.

When the original builder built this engine, there were not any oversize valves available.

No plans to use this motor in traffic. If so, so a very short distance.



Does anyone remember what compression the old 1314 Wiseco's were?

13.5:1?

[JMR]

Surprised there are stock size valves in there....OS intakes with seat boring to .9 of new valve OD makes a big difference. FJ's run hot normally.....getting almost 12:1 CR with the increased bore is kinda of a gamble. Pray for no traffic jams. I have a 1314 FJ with with about 10:75.....watching the oil temp gauge in any type of stop and go is scary.

When the original builder built this engine, there were not any oversize valves available.

No plans to use this motor in traffic. If so, so a very short distance.



Does anyone remember what compression the old 1314 Wiseco's were?

13.5:1?

When was that.....OS intakes were available over 30 years ago....probably longer with that crap Manley stuff through Orient Express.....I got all Kibblewhite stuff. Original Wiseco 1314 pistons were 10:25 advertised.