1992 FJ1200 with ABS Dragging clutch or gears shiffter issues... I still loveher

[Motofun]

The Belray oil will work fine.  Use the same oil to soak the clutch fibres in as well.

[red]

I just noticed I will need a filter, I think I will just go to a local store for that. But in the oil topic I know there is always a lot of favorites etc... I have like 1.5 liters of this kind of oil that I did an oil change in my previous bike.
Please feel free to give me oil suggestions as per what it works for your bikes.

THXFJ1200.

You will need about 4,5 liters to change the oil, with a new filter.  I use full synthetic, meeting the owner's manual specs, 20W-50 in my old FJ. 

Since you say you will buy an oil filter locally, I guess that you have the spin-on oil filter option from RPM, and use automobile oil filters.  Make sure you buy oil filters with an anti-drain (flapper) valve, so the oil filter remains filled with oil when the engine is off.  Otherwise, the oil pump would have to refill the oil filter at each start-up, before the engine gets any oil at all.  Most (not all) oil filters will have this feature, but check to be sure.

[THXFJ1200]

Obviously, this is my first oil change, hence I am talking with too much freedom supposing this is as simple as in other bikes, but now I see it is not...
What's the deal with the pinching cables and o-rings and all that from simply replacing your oil filter?

I do not have the oil filter conversion kit from RPM and I was hoping to just get the OEM Yamaha filter for the FJ1200 in a local motorcycle store. and simply change it from one to the next with some oil in there.

I had read about this conversion in the FJ.info website but kinda forgot about it later on. Is it something I should get for sure or can it be spared for the next oil change? I have already made like 3 shipments from RPM and almost 80 dollars just in shipping, translate to more than 120 Canadians and was hoping to avoid any more spending on the bike, plus the underground garage is gonna be power washed next Tuesday and I need to get the bike out for a day or so, pushing is not going to be fun if I have to wait for the shipment to get here...

Anyways, anyone that can further comment on this, I would be forever thankful.

[RPM - Robert]

They stock filter is a canister type filter: OEM Yamaha Cartridge Oil Filter

There is a high probability that the oring or wiring can get caught in the housing when bolting to the engine creating other issues. Plus, don't forget the spring and washer from the oil filter.

Fram used to make a filter but since the bike is 30 years old and I don't even think a handful of bikes use that filter, they stopped making them. Most likely your only option will be from a local Yamaha stealership.

The adapter allows you to go to your local parts store and buy automotive filters that spin on like a car or truck filter. 1) making it a bit easier to service & 2) allowing you to buy the filter locally.

[red]

Obviously, this is my first oil change, hence I am talking with too much freedom supposing this is as simple as in other bikes, but now I see it is not...  What's the deal with the pinching cables and o-rings and all that from simply replacing your oil filter?
I had read about this conversion in the FJ.info website but kinda forgot about it later on. Is it something I should get for sure or can it be spared for the next oil change?

THXFJ1200,

When you remove the old oil filter, you will see a small electrical cable than runs close by.  Just be sure you have that cable free and clear before using tools. The washer and spring in the housing hold the filter in place; without them, oil will still get to the engine, but it will not be filtered.  Oil expands rubber, so the sealing ring likes to pop out of place when re-installing the housing.  The same applies to any engine O-rings that see oil.

The spin-on oil filter adapter is just a convenience for you, and giving you the option to replace old oil filters even when the Yamaha shop is far away or closed.  It certainly can wait until you are ready.  After the first oil change, most riders will be ready.
       
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[FJ_Hooligan]

Since this is your first oil change and you still have the OEM canister filter, DO NOT REMOVE the small canister drain bolt!

This will not drain the canister (or it will take forever) and it will probably strip the soft aluminum threads when you go to reinstall it.

[THXFJ1200]

Ok, now I am AFRAID, damn...

Just be sure you have that cable free and clear before using tools

what tools? I mean the filter is off... wouldn't I put the new one by hand... I am sure I will need to read a lot more to familiarize my self with the special way of changing the oil filter in this FJs and sure too that I will order the spin-on adapter once I am done with it.

The washer and spring in the housing hold the filter in place

So I gather by this the filter is held in place by the pressure of the spring above it? and below the housing? SO there is no thread on this filter?

you still have the OEM canister filter, DO NOT REMOVE the small canister drain bolt

What/where is that bolt? 

This will not drain the canister (or it will take forever)

WIll this leave any old oil lingering in the system? Do I want that?

it will probably strip the soft aluminum threads when you go to reinstall it

Now this one makes me even more freaked out, why would the threads strip?? Is this common for every oil change without the slip-on adapter?

Now after a good dose of paranoia, I ask my self, maybe the oil doesn't need to be changed and I can still soak the plates in this new oil and put them in like that with minimal oil contamination?

Or maybe I can change just the oil and leave the filter there until I am ready to put a spin-on adapter in place? Would the filter oil mixed with the new oil have any issue, of course, I don't have a clue what oil is in there, so it could have negative consequences but I don't foresee it been that drastically bad...

I will surely tonight read a lot more about what is needed for changing oil and filter parts and service wise.

Thank you all for realz!

[ryanschoebel]

Don't overthink it!  It IS still just an oil change. Everyone is giving you tips and tricks to look for so that everything goes back together smoothly. Don't get all in your head about how many things there are to look at. Just do the change, and look at the things people are mentioning IF you have issues, which you likely wont.

[FJ_Hooligan]

If the filter is already off then you pulled the canister off and it drained.  You then removed the cartridge filter to replace it with a new cartridge filter.  The filter should have come with new O-rings for the center bolt and the canister seal against the case.  Replace them.

From your first response below, are you sure you don't already have a spin-on adapter?

[THXFJ1200]

I am sure I have the OEM setup (see attached picture) otherwise, I would be looking at a filter like thing in there and not the weird hex bolt.

I guess I am overthinking it, I will just tackle it that's all, I will need to make sure I got everything I need to make it right...

So I need the cartridge filter, the o-ring for the center bolt and the o-ring for the canister to seat against the housing... 4.5 liters of oil.

then in the rebuild, I would try not to pinch wired and make the spring and the o-rings stay in place... it seems like a lot of parts to my like I might bite the bullet and get the right thing from RPM.

Yeah, I've made my mind. I will just get the spin on and push the bike out of here with a friends help for the garage power washing. Then take my time doing things right once and for all. Money'll get back.

Can anyone attest if the oil filter RPM sells (Wix 51334) that fits the spin-on adapter has the desired "anti-drain (flapper) valve" to keep oil in the filter for the next start?

Thank you guys for your patience and great advice.

[THXFJ1200]

Now, one more question, does anyone has any experience with the "FLO Stainless Steel Oil Filter" from RPM?
It seems like I won't have to buy any other oil filter in the future and I like the fact of being environmentally friendly, so, is this a good investment filtering wise? It even has a magnet so I would think yes is the answer, looking at the price it should be great

So I already have an order ready and I will again wait for a couple of answers in order to pull the trigger one more time on yet another RPM delivery, thx to those guys!!!

[THXFJ1200]

OK, I answered my own question and cheap out for a more standard K&N oil filter, plus the spin-on and the o-ring for it, a magnetic plug for the oil pan and another magnet for the filter to sweeten the deal...
Now the wait, I can still start with the clutch work this weekend and end the oil change when this last order arrives.
Thanks again everyone who collaborate in this thread. very kool of you!

[red]

OK, I answered my own question and cheap out for a more standard K&N oil filter, plus the spin-on and the o-ring for it, a magnetic plug for the oil pan and another magnet for the filter to sweeten the deal...
Now the wait, I can still start with the clutch work this weekend and end the oil change when this last order arrives. Thanks again everyone who collaborate in this thread. very kool of you!

THXFJ1200,

Try to relax.      You can probably remove and replace the clutch plates without draining the oil, anyway.  You may want to lean the bike over slightly, and prop it against something solid, to make it easier to access the clutch plates.

The oil filter canister drain screw is Index # 12 on this fiche:

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1992-yamaha-fj1200ad-oil-filter-assembly.html

Don't even bother with it, but you asked.  This drawing is for the FJ1200AD, but all FJs will have the same parts, there.  Not sure what model FJ you have there.  This link gets you to all the FJ models (scroll down there) . . .

http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1992-yamaha-parts.html

Pick your model, and bookmark the Index page for future reference.  Once you find the part and OEM price, scroll down there to find out what other Yamaha vehicles will have the same part.  That knowledge will help finding used parts, if needed, on eBay or elsewhere.
.

[THXFJ1200]

Thanks Red, I do want to get everything as good as possible, like fresh oil with fresh plates, etc.

Mine is a 1992 FJ1200 with ABS... not sure if AD/ADC/D/DC... I am trying to google to find what the difference is with no real answers.

OK, wiki says the ABS version is the FJ1200A... AD/ADC??

I would guess at 1992 they were already the 3XW version of the bike?

Not that I am not relaxed, lol, just want to be educated in order to communicate better with my peers here.

Thanks for the links red!

[red]

Thanks Red, I do want to get everything as good as possible, like fresh oil with fresh plates, etc.  Mine is a 1992 FJ1200 with ABS... not sure if AD/ADC/D/DC...  Thanks for the links red!

THXFJ1200,

You can call the Yamaha mothership directly (1-800-962-7926), give them the VIN, and ask about the model designation.  You may need that, for some parts.  Hang on to that phone number, too.  They will also check for you that all factory recalls (if any) are completed.  Any model with a C in the designation is a California (emissions) bike.
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