Gear indicator the factory should have done

[andyb]

That is absolutely amazingly well done.  I'm not one that really cares what gear I'm in (either I need more rpm or less, and that's all I'm concerned with), but that is very, very well done, sir!

[Alf]

Good work!
About the glue: use SikaFlex. Its elastic when dry, dont disolve the plastics. I use too to repair the plastics, inner fairing tabs... like have not a rigid finish, dont break anymore

[ZOA NOM]

Looks great, Alf! I'll look into it... For now, I've ordered some gauge paint to see if I can clean it up.

[whyzee79]

Wow those mods are excellent.  Maybe that would stop me from trying to shift into 6th all the time!!!!

[ZOA NOM]

Okay, one more try...

Started by replacing the LED's with these flat type that are for GM dashboard lighting. The stiff leads were the key to placing them firmly over the back of the tach gauge using a thin disc of clear plexiglass that is simply layered behind the gauge face.





I also changed the wiring, using a set of jumper wires for use in computers. The connectors are nice and slim, and sturdy.



This made them easy to feed through.



The other thing I changed was the connectors. I wised up and used the molex solder-pin type. Made for a much more robust connection.



Notice the small cutouts on the edge of the disc to accommodate the pins that touch the back of the gauge when installed.



Thanks to Midget Mike for a shiny new gauge face!



These are way brighter. Might even need to add a photoresistor to dim them at night...

[Capn Ron]

Rick...That is spectacular work there man!

I never realized the luxury in having a gear shift indicator...but my new (2013) bike has it...this along with some other modern features is very welcome!

[ZOA NOM]

Thanks, Cap'n. I'll try to put together a specific parts list with sources to add to the file. I wonder if I could calculate the additional clutch lifespan this mod creates.

[ZOA NOM]

To summarize: Grand Total approx $130

I started with RPM's cable and transmission contact assembly:

note - This is an expensive choice, but I really like the ease of install into the factory switch location. You can certainly modify your existing transmission contactor, which has only one contact, for the neutral light. Adding contacts to the stock assembly is fraught with potential for irreversible damage, so I chose to spend the money and get the unit that Randy sells. I have the factory unit as a spare if a problem arises. This entire mod can be reversed and there is no change to any of the stock assemblies except for drilling out the tiny hole in the back of the gauge cluster. You will need an additional length of 6-wire cable (don't forget neutral, it needs to be separated out and tapped into the circuit at the back of the cluster for the factory light) to run from the end connector to the cluster. The length of this cable puts the connector just about to the front of the carbs on the left side of my bike. I tucked it under the side cover just above the main horizontal frame member.



Finally found the right LED's. Sourced from Amazon. These operate between 10-14 volts, so no resistor is required, although I am considering adding a photoresistor circuit to automatically dim the brightness in the dark, and allow the brightest shine during the daytime. I'll update that when I do it.



Don't forget to notch the disc where the support posts touch the back of the tach face on installation.



I used these molex 6-pin connectors I sourced at Fry's Electronics:



Along with these jumpers also found at Fry's:

The female ends fit snugly over the LED leads, and allow individual replacement. I added heat shrink for protection. I twisted all five positive sides together and soldered them to a single power lead that feeds out of the cluster to be connected to the switched power input on the back. (Red wire seen here in second pic):







I sourced the thinnest sheet of lexan I could find at Home Depot to use for the clear disc. It needs to be sandwiched between the gauge face and the body of the tach, so thinner is better. It only needs to be there to hold the LEDs in place over the back of the tach numerals. I drilled very tiny holes for the leads to keep them as tight as possible. I used dremel bits #73 for these holes, and broke several bits, so go slowly.

[ZOA NOM]

Uploading photos to FJOwners server to prevent broken links in the event Imgur server is no longer in use.

[FJ_Hooligan]

How is the lexan attached to the tach?

[ZOA NOM]

How is the lexan attached to the tach?

It's drilled at the gauge face screws and needle hole, and sandwiched between the gauge face and the electronics. This is why thinner is better. The needle will catch the screw heads if the lexan is too thick.

You can see it in this pic.

[ZOA NOM]

Just added a photoresistor to dim the brightness after dark.

I used a 100k ohm resistor in parallel with the photoresistor to achieve the brightness level for dark.

I think the results are perfect.

https://youtu.be/vjkDOb8M27k

[ZOA NOM]

Updating this thread to add a drawing of an idea I'm trying to put together...

The idea is to replace the lexan disc with a flexible, clear pcb that has the foil runs for the LED's sandwiched between two layers, and a split across the middle that can allow it to be slipped into the space behind the gauge face without even removing the needle or the screws. An edge connector would make assembly far simpler, and the reduction of bulky wires would allow better backlighting.

Stay tuned!

[Tuned forks]

 

Joe

[Bud Wilkinson]

Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!