Gear indicator the factory should have done

[ZOA NOM]

I've found that I glance at it most often when I'm stopped at a light to confirm I'm in first at idle, or when downshifting into a corner to confirm the gear I want on exit. It's become second nature, and I've all but eliminated "wrong gear" events. This is in addition to the sixth gear upshift. Also, I use a Sena to listen to news, music, podcasts, etc., so engine noise isn't much of a clue.

[Bud Wilkinson]

Wow, thanks for all the replies to my question on this topic.

SORRY THE INSET PICTURES FROM MY CLOUD DIDN'T WORK. I made them attached.

I have currently designed, 3D printed and tested 5 basic versions and 10 different revisions or tweaks of each version.
Here's a summary of my evolution of Rick's working gear indicator concept. My modifications were simply for ease of install or implementation for me personally.

The LEDs I chose for the final form factor are very bright and focused so I could keep them 3mm or more from the back of the gauge face letting a good amount of illumination light reach the unlit RPM numbers while projecting plenty of light at the desired number. After using the black PLA for early prototyping, (because it was in the printer), I switched to a clear PLA filament.

I struggled with electrical connection due to their small size and because there is no printed circuit that I found to substitute and get the positioning right. The pictures below show some evolutionary steps to what I think are my final LED mounts and LEDs.


These are my many versions of mounts, connection methods and wrong LED choice early on. I didn't expect the resistor to be attached. Then evolving to use the 1/8th turn T4.7 / T5 LEDs.
The small 6 conductor connectors were the ticket to the final solution. The lower left setup looked promising but I failed to keep the thin mount area out of the heat gun airstream and got a huge warp.


This shows the clear filament, a blending of the 6 conductor wire strands with the additional 4 strands of twisted 30 gauge wire and learning how to shrink wrap without warping the mounting surface. On the right the final solution to a physical "Circuit Board" can be seen.


Like many things, this is a learning and experimenting process. I found by weaving the wire with the insulation through the routing holes I had, made the most sense. Just removing the insulation at the socket contact area proved the best way to accomplish my physical "Circuit Board".


This shows the completed mounts with the looms ready to exit the back of the cluster housing and have the connector installed. One mount is for the T4.7 / T5 socket style LEDs on the top and one mount is for T3 socket style LEDs. These are available in many colors. I chose to use Green for 1st - 4th and Amber or Red for 5th. Green meaning "Upshift OK" Amber/Red meaning "No Upshift". The LEDs are very bright and well focused so some clearance is a good thing to let in illumination light for night use.


Showing the same units from the gauge side. The LED to Gauge clearance is 3mm for the T4.7/T5 unit and 4.5mm for the T3 unit.


Showing the Terminated connector exiting the back of the gauge assembly. I found it easier for the test unit to remove the power wire from the loom and connect it directly.

I'm still waiting for the switch O-Ring to complete the install and finalize looming length.
I am also making the Photo Resistor circuit to go between the power and the board to be finalized.
I will also try out my 3D printed black fairing scoop trim bits when I put it back together.
Coming soon.

[red]

Wow, thanks for all the replies to my question on this topic.
I have currently designed, 3D printed and tested 5 basic versions and 10 different revisions or tweaks of each version.  My modifications were simply for ease of install or implementation for me personally.  The LEDs I chose for the final form factor are very bright and focused
I'm still waiting for the switch O-Ring to complete the install and finalize looming length.  I am also making the Photo Resistor circuit to go between the power and the board to be finalized.  I will also try out my 3D printed black fairing scoop trim bits when I put it back together.  Coming soon. 

Bud,

Your project just rocks!  Ya done good!  Don't know if you plan to sell them, but I'd sure buy one for my FJ.  If Plug'n'Play is not your thing, even a kit would be okay by me.  I don't have a 3-D printer, but I can usually assemble a kit without much trouble.

'WAY to GO!
      
.

[Bud Wilkinson]

Your project just rocks!  Ya done good!  Don't know if you plan to sell them, but I'd sure buy one for my FJ.  If Plug'n'Play is not your thing, even a kit would be okay by me.  I don't have a 3-D printer, but I can usually assemble a kit without much trouble.

'WAY to GO!
      
.

Thanks Red, this is really Rick's project. I just made some mods to a great idea.
I'm not really making a commercial here but a kit of sorts could be available once I get a complete working version done. It would be like an almost plug and play solution because some things have to be left undone to install the system. The dash exit loom comes to mind. then properly pinned out to the connector.
Things like the loom from the switch and the cluster internals could be done pretty near completely though. Could even customize LED color choices too. The switch from RPM would be on whoever wants to do it though.

[ZOA NOM]

Absolutely beautiful, Bud. It's an even better version. I really like the shape. The one concern I've had with mine is the backlighting illumination. My jumble of wires back there blocks a lot of the backlight, so the gauges can have dark areas. Really elegant solution. I love it.