Gear indicator the factory should have done

[ZOA NOM]

Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!

Thanks Bud, it was (and still is) a work in progress. The indicator has worked flawlessly this whole time in it's last version, so I've just neglected to move forward with some refinements I've been thinking of. I've looked into printing the led circuits onto a clear thin (think sheet protector) wafer than can slip between the guage and face easily, without all the wires that do impede the backlighting a bit.

It's a very clean mod, that I use daily, and it's become just a normal item on the dash that I don't even think twice about, until I see others without one. Good luck with the mod, let me know if you run into a problem. I still have some parts too.

[Bud Wilkinson]

Rick,
I see this post sort of stopped in late 2018. I can say that I want to do something like this for sure to my FJ 1200 TC. Ordering parts now and drawing something up to print out on my 3D printer for the LED holder. The photoresistor circuit is a stroke of genius as well.
Thanks for doing all the heavy lifting on this system. Brilliant Sir, Simply Brilliant!!!

Thanks Bud, it was (and still is) a work in progress. The indicator has worked flawlessly this whole time in it's last version, so I've just neglected to move forward with some refinements I've been thinking of. I've looked into printing the led circuits onto a clear thin (think sheet protector) wafer than can slip between the guage and face easily, without all the wires that do impede the backlighting a bit.

It's a very clean mod, that I use daily, and it's become just a normal item on the dash that I don't even think twice about, until I see others without one. Good luck with the mod, let me know if you run into a problem. I still have some parts too.

Hi Rick,
So I got an instrument cluster on eBay to experiment with. I'm thinking about a T4.7 or T5 socket type of LED install. The LEDs seem to be prevalent now days. Ordered some LEDs, Photoresistors, RPM Gear indicator switch, Molex connectors. Just need to disassemble and measure, draw the "Ring" and start the print refinement.
The ring would be 3D printed with ports for the 1/4 turn bulbs to be installed in with a full circle power bar and the ground being associated with individual sockets. Some of the foil tape may do the trick well for conductor strips. I think I can keep the mount area at the screws at around 0.5 mm and hold the unit reliably with a few rubber tipped stand off pegs for support.
A couple things that have me a little hesitant about disassembly before the face screws are removed are,
1. How do you pull off the gage needle without damage? Does it just pull straight off with some support as near the shaft as possible?
2. How do you index it to go back on in the same place keeping the reading accurate?
I know it may not read to a +- 10 RPM resolution but I would like to avoid it being 100 - 500 RPM off. the needle seems to use the stop peg pretty hard on the donor unit I got.
Just waiting on some LEDs and needle guidance.
T.I.A.

[ZOA NOM]

Hi Bud, sounds like you're all in at this point!

I did wind up with a tach error of about 500rpm after this mod. I pulled the needle straight upwards to remove it, and it took more force than I was really comfortable with. That's one of the reasons I was interested in a thin disc with a slot cut halfway across that could be slipped between the tach body and the backside of the face, rather than removing the face.

Also, regarding the LED's, I found the GM panel LED's to work better than the socket style. They sit more flush against the backside of the gauge face, and that helps to focus their light directly on the numeral they are lighting up.

[Bud Wilkinson]

Hey Rick,
Progress on Covid times goes slowly at times. But progress we must make. I have made a slip in, transparent 3D printed LED holder with, against recommendations, socket style LEDs. It was just easier to connect. I chose green for 1-4, meaning "go ahead and shift" and amber, red or orange for 5th, meaning "don't shift".
I have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?
I'm getting close and once it's operational will share pictures of everything I've done. It's kind of cool.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Bud

[ZOA NOM]

Hey Rick,
Progress on Covid times goes slowly at times. But progress we must make. I have made a slip in, transparent 3D printed LED holder with, against recommendations, socket style LEDs. It was just easier to connect. I chose green for 1-4, meaning "go ahead and shift" and amber, red or orange for 5th, meaning "don't shift".
I have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?
I'm getting close and once it's operational will share pictures of everything I've done. It's kind of cool.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Bud

Well, you've spent your quarantine far more productively than I have. I'd love to see pics when you're all done. I do not recall dealing with any oil when I changed the switch, but it's possible that I did it in conjunction with an oil change.

[red]

I have yet to install the gear indicator switch and have a question. Does the indicator switch sit above or below the oil level. In other words, does the oil have to be drained to swap out the switch?

Bud,

I have not investigated your question (something about a snowstorm here).  If necessary, I believe that you could simply tilt (and support)  the bike maybe 45 degrees over to one side to do the work, without draining the oil.  Ropes from the ceiling could provide the support necessary for this option, without using floor stands or jacks.
.

[RPM - Robert]

There is no need to drain the oil, just pop it off. It is a tight fit between the shift assembly and the case, so there is hardly any oil in there as is. You will only lose a few ounces.

[Pat Conlon]

I noticed Hank Scott sells an aluminum reinforcement cover for the plastic switch plate...



https://shop.rrcperformanceengines.com/product-p/rrc-shiftplate.htm

Has anyone needed this, or is this just used on the race cars?

[ZOA NOM]

Not much of a "cover"...

[RPM - Robert]

We have never had the need for them on the bikes or race cars. I don't know that I have ever seen one "buckle". They could, however, be for people that like to put "a little extra" on the plastic housing and break it, which in turn causes a leak. We see cracked ones at the screw holes all the time. This seems to add a bit more surface area to the mounting hole flanges, as the original holes and screws are tapered.

Not necessary for most people. It should come in the, "I overtighten everything and wonder why it breaks or strips out." starter pack. Also, to include a case of thread locker and a few tubes of silicone.

[Alf]

Not necessary for most people. It should come in the, "I overtighten everything and wonder why it breaks or strips out." starter pack. Also, to include a case of thread locker and a few tubes of silicone.

[Waiex191]

I think this is a cool project.  I'll put it on my someday list.  I could probably get away with an "I'm in 5th gear" light.

The starter pack comment from Rob was awesome.

[fj1289]

5th gear light is exactly what I'm interested in for the race bike.  May also use it to disable the air shifter after the shift to 5th to avoid any just before the stripe shenanigans!

[ZOA NOM]

A 5th gear light is where I started, but the switch has all six contacts (1-5 & Neutral), so it was just as much work to do one led as it was for all five gears, and it feels a lot more factory in use.

[Motofun]

I'm cheap so here was my solution.........In third gear the tach and the speedo needles are in synch.  In 1st and 2nd gear the speedo needle lags the tach by a lot (1st) or a little (2nd).  Ditto for 4th and 5th but past the tach.  Doesn't cost a cent.