Electrical (or maybe not) problems

[krusty]

Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.

[FJmonkey]

Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.

Good call Krusty, that is an easy thing to check. After the fuel line wraps around carb top #3 then it goes under the "Y" splitter and into the petcock fitting. Going over the "Y" fitting can cause the line to kink. If it kinks enough then your 10MM fuel line becomes smaller. I will search for the post that covers this.

edit... found it



In this image the line returns under one of the two lines, the OEM routing is under both lines before it connects to the petcock.

Thanks to Mr Blackstock for the image....

Here is the full post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8015.msg73889#msg73889

[element303]

There sure is....go to the Files section look in the Carb Files and on page 2 there is a PDF on carb cleaning.

Do a through cleaning, half measures will avail you nothing.

Also: Replace the float needle seat o rings, in fact, just get the carb ss screw kit and o ring kit from RPM.

i did clean the carb very carefully yesterday including carb cleaner, wd40, needles and air pressure. they werent even dirty. just slightly debris but nothing that will make it run shitty. the carb dont need a rebuild kit really. even the rubber on the needle is still in good condition. 

[element303]

One more option to help trouble shoot the carbs is using a clear piece of tubing on the bowl drain. With the tube pushed onto the drain nipple, curve the tube up so the other end of the tube is above the carb top. Then crack the drain screw open. This will create a sight glass and allow you see if the bowls are filling the same. You will need to run the engine so keep a fan or two on the engine to avoid over heating.

yes, thank you. i used to do that on the kawasaki. i will do that tomorrow first thing. i already forgot about that.

[element303]

Are all 4 choke plungers returning to the fully closed (in) position when you turn the choke lever off?
It's possible that #2 and #3 are stuck in the open position?  

i think yes but i will double check again. but its def. a flooding problem. i can see gas running down the carb 3 and 2 had a black plug too already.

[element303]

Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.

Good call Krusty, that is an easy thing to check. After the fuel line wraps around carb top #3 then it goes under the "Y" splitter and into the petcock fitting. Going over the "Y" fitting can cause the line to kink. If it kinks enough then your 10MM fuel line becomes smaller. I will search for the post that covers this.

edit... found it



In this image the line returns under one of the two lines, the OEM routing is under both lines before it connects to the petcock.

Thanks to Mr Blackstock for the image....

Here is the full post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8015.msg73889#msg73889

thank you guys for this. this explains what the thing is good on carb 3 haha. actually, i shortened the main fuel like that comes from the tank to make sure it really flows with gravity. its not bend or anything and i can see the fuel running in the T piece. its getting too much fuel in the flooded ones. i checked all that already. fuel lines are good and not bend and it flows freely.

[Pat Conlon]

...the carb dont need a rebuild kit really. even the rubber on the needle is still in good condition. 

The rubber tips on the float needles may be fine, but something's causing the flooding.

My money is on the float needle seat O rings.

[element303]

yes, you might be right. i went through pics again how to adjust the float level and im gonna do that again now and take out the seats to check. then i will bring all floats in the perfect position based on the manual.

[element303]

ok so once again i have the carbs out and open, cause i love it so much, and i took pics of the needle seats of the #2 & 3 carb. they seem to be intact, instead of pieces of the o-ring missing, there is actually some excess material around it. it looks worst on the pic and macro but i will pull out the other 2 as well now to see how they look. i guess i could try to clean it so its smooth. doesnt really look that bad to me. what do you think? i made a took to measure the float hight perfectly again and will do that now.

[Flynt]

those o-rings are shot...  once they are cut like that, they won't seal.  You should replace them.

Frank

[FJmonkey]

Like Frank said, the o-rings are shot. They are inexpensive and responsible for holding back highly flammable liquid so think about your cost vs. risk.

[element303]

well yeah i just tried to take one of the "good" ones off and it broke right away. im gonna check some places to see if im lucky to find it around here. dont really wanna wait a whole week again since i got a 3day permission to drive it yesterday and wanna make use of it. but at least that seems to be the issue that i have. maybe i should rename the subject so other people can find help too.

[FJmonkey]

Make sure the o-ring material is compatible to fuel and ethanol.

This should help.
http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm

[element303]

good call. i will go to a local carb dude. im sure he have a box full of o-rings.

[racerrad8]

Make sure you get the right size. Too small it will still leak. Too big and you will have to ruin the needle seats to get them out next time. These are guaranteed to fit Needle Seat O-Ring Set

Robert - RPM