Electrical (or maybe not) problems

[element303]

hmm. well im not sure if the ring is the same size but i could simply install the pickups itself on my base. they def "look" exactly the same. i mean as long they have the same design to work with the same rotor... i dont think they have any different properties. after all they just pick up the signal from the rotor passing by.

i have one question though.. why the 1200 only have one pickup? how does that work?? i was a little confused when i saw that today

[element303]

ok little update. i ordered those Yamaha Radian 600 '86 pickups on ebay cause there was nothing else to be found and they seem to be exactly the same. nt the plate, but the pickups itself. i did that once with my kawasaki and used pickups from a much newer model and mounted them on my base.





needed to route the cables another way around but it should work. i didn't fire her up yet because I still have to paint the tank. i also made sure the rotor doesn't hit any of the pickups anymore. it looks like the bike fell or got a hit at the bottom of the case of that area which they sealed with silicon. maybe thats when the rotor bend and started hitting the pickup. either way, I'm sure there is enough space now and tomorrow I'm going to fire her up! i have high hopes that i can finally take her for a real ride!

[Pat Conlon]

Do those Radian pickups look backward, or is it just me?

Shouldn't the little metal sensor tabs face the rotor?

[Flynt]

Do those Radian pickups look backward, or is it just me?

Shouldn't the little metal sensor tabs face the rotor?

They are facing inward...  That's correct.  Kind of an optical illusion I think.

Frank

[element303]

haha it would be a big fail if they would face inward i would be sitting there waiting for it to fire up  cant wait for the morning to do that!

[element303]

unbelievable, but still same issue. i just wanna dump it in the trash and keep walking. ok then back to the carb. its 100% clean and all floats are set to the perfect height. i guess i have to check the sparks again and if 1+4 are still lean, get those more rich with the float level. any suggestions how many mm i should set the floats if with (i think it was 22mm by manual) the spark is completely white? 

[element303]

im gonna need some more help. took out the carbs for the 6th time, adjusted the 2 lean carbs 2mm richer and the rich one 2mm less. just to see what comes out in the reading of the new sparks i bought again.

i dont know how it is possible but its still exactly the same. 1,4 completely white, 3 tends still to a good reading. white with very light brown at the bottom but still lean, and 3 totally black again...

what else can i do to adjust that? i dont remember seeing different size jets in the carbs. i pulled out the needles to see if i can adjust them with the clip but they only have one setting. i dont want to jump into any other things until the reading of the sparks is not right.

after i tried to adjust the floats the last time thought, it still hesitated in the same rpm ranges: 2000-3500 pretty bad, then it runs very strong and clean until 5000 and after that i can barely get it higher even with full throttle, but compared to the last time i drove it, it ran much more powerful between 3500 and 5000. so something changed to the better.

what else can i do?

[Pat Conlon]

Did you rule out a vacuum leak? Replace the o rings on the intake manifolds. Carb boots look ok with no cracks?

Re: Black plug, are you absolutely sure the choke circuit is *completely off* on that carb?
Even a slight trickle of fuel will soot up the plug. To be sure, install a soft compression spring on the choke slider rod, pushing the choke rod all the way to the right.(off position) A soft spring is all that's needed.

I'm running out of ideas.

[element303]

im sure the choke is off. at least i can see it from the top of the carb that the whole linkage is moving. ok talking about vacuum leak. i currently have the airfilter box removed because i wanted to install single airfilters and because i knew already before i have to pull the carbs out more than once. could the 6 hoses that exit the carb cause any problem? the 4 thinner ones are only to drain if im correct and run down at the side of the bike. but what about the 2 larger ones? where do they go? i read here somehwere in the forum that they run also to the side of the bike and then get into a loop but there is nothing to connect them.

[Mark Olson]

unbelievable, but still same issue. i just wanna dump it in the trash and keep walking. ok then back to the carb. its 100% clean and all floats are set to the perfect height. i guess i have to check the sparks again and if 1+4 are still lean, get those more rich with the float level. any suggestions how many mm i should set the floats if with (i think it was 22mm by manual) the spark is completely white? 

Wow, I read this post and you are having a hard time.
So how about a fresh pair of eyes.

Start over from the beginning...
Do a compression test.

Check spark strength for each cylinder by seeing how far it will arc to ground and you should be able to jump 1/4 inch and see hot blue spark. If not check for 12 volts to ign coils..Use ohm meter to check resistance of coils .

Did you get same spark on all plug wires? Now check each plug and see if it sparks to verify it works..sometimes they look good but have failed .

Now verify fuel level is good in each carb by attaching clear tube to bowl drain port and hold tube upright next to carb as you open drain screw and this will work as a sight guage to verify fuel is at proper level.. The engine must be started for this test so you will need all four set up and ready. It is best to remove gas tank and use a temporary fuel source...a radiator overflow tank works great for this test.
While performing this test you are watching for the fuel bowl level tubes you attached to maintain the proper level with the engine running ,  increase rpms and see f level drops and recovers equally on all carbs..fuel level may drop and not recover or overfill on bad needle and seat. Make sure to use a powerful fan to cool engine during this test.

When engine is cold and first started , touch the exhaust header pipe close to the head to check for heat..this is a light quick touch or you will burn yourself..the ones firing well get hot quick ,the colder ones indicate not firing.

Do these tests and then we can move to next steps.

You have not mentioned if you have stock air cleaner or what exhaust setup you have..Fjs that have sat for a while will end up with mice and nest in air box and also inside exhaust pipe..make sure these are not restricted or plugged.

Report back with your findings after you have completed all the tests  I have asked for..
Good luck .

[Pat Conlon]

The 4 small hoses are your choke vent hoses, they should tuck in between the engine and the frame at the rear.
The 2 larger hoses are your vent hoses for the carb bowls. Very important. They need to be open and unobstructed and run down in the same location as the 4 choke vent hoses.
The atmospheric pressure inside the carb bowls must be equal to the outside ambient air pressure.
Any differences in pressure between the two *will* cause all kinds of weird fueling issues.

[Mark Olson]

The 4 small hoses are your choke vent hoses, they should tuck in between the engine and the frame at the rear.
The 2 larger hoses are your vent hoses for the carb bowls. Very important. They need to be open and unobstructed and run down in the same location as the 4 choke vent hoses.
The atmospheric pressure inside the carb bowls must be equal to the outside ambient air pressure.
Any differences in pressure between the two *will* cause all kinds of weird fueling issues.

That is one of the next steps. 

[element303]

yes all hoses are open and hanging down in the right side. as for the clear tube, i just bought a new one cause i cant find the one i had to test the same on my kawa. i checked the coils, i even replaced them. i am certain its not that anymore. sparks have been replaced multiple times, just today again to make sure i have a clean reading. i will do the clear hose test now.

[element303]

alright. latest update. i cant open the screw of the rich running carb #2 (which is the only one backfiring) but the other seems to be way too low. its somehting around 10mm below the bowl top i would say:

carb #1



carb #3



carb #4



also, there seem to be gas leaking every time i turn the bike on from either the right gas hose in, or next to it the right vent hose. it stops after a few seconds.

right now all 3 lean carbs are about 2mm lower than the recommended float level setting. can this really be only the float level? i mean 10mm is a lot. how much should i raise the floater from the 22mm that are recommended?

[Pat Conlon]

Looks low to me.

We have the fuel level info. saved over in the carb files. http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3592.0