News:

This forum is run by RPM and donations from members.

It is the donations of the members that help offset the operating cost of the forum. The secondary benefit of being a contributing member is the ability to save big during RPM Holiday sales. For more information please check out this link: Membership has its privileges 

Thank you for your support of the all mighty FJ.

Main Menu

Electrical (or maybe not) problems

Started by element303, August 05, 2015, 01:56:17 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

krusty

Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.
91 FJ1200
84 FJ1100 x 2
85 FJ1100
89 GL1500
76 CB750F1
72 CB350F
63 C92 x 2
59 C76
62 C100
63 C100
60 Colleda 250TA x 3
63 Suzuki MD50
77 DT125E
77 DT175E x 2
79 DT250F

FJmonkey

Quote from: krusty on August 05, 2015, 07:34:47 PM
Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.

Good call Krusty, that is an easy thing to check. After the fuel line wraps around carb top #3 then it goes under the "Y" splitter and into the petcock fitting. Going over the "Y" fitting can cause the line to kink. If it kinks enough then your 10MM fuel line becomes smaller. I will search for the post that covers this.

edit... found it



In this image the line returns under one of the two lines, the OEM routing is under both lines before it connects to the petcock.

Thanks to Mr Blackstock for the image....

Here is the full post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8015.msg73889#msg73889
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

element303

Quote from: Pat Conlon on August 05, 2015, 07:15:23 PM
There sure is....go to the Files section look in the Carb Files and on page 2 there is a PDF on carb cleaning.

Do a through cleaning, half measures will avail you nothing.

Also: Replace the float needle seat o rings, in fact, just get the carb ss screw kit and o ring kit from RPM.

i did clean the carb very carefully yesterday including carb cleaner, wd40, needles and air pressure. they werent even dirty. just slightly debris but nothing that will make it run shitty. the carb dont need a rebuild kit really. even the rubber on the needle is still in good condition. 
There is no such thing as too much cheese

element303

Quote from: FJmonkey on August 05, 2015, 07:27:06 PM
One more option to help trouble shoot the carbs is using a clear piece of tubing on the bowl drain. With the tube pushed onto the drain nipple, curve the tube up so the other end of the tube is above the carb top. Then crack the drain screw open. This will create a sight glass and allow you see if the bowls are filling the same. You will need to run the engine so keep a fan or two on the engine to avoid over heating.

yes, thank you. i used to do that on the kawasaki. i will do that tomorrow first thing. i already forgot about that.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

element303

Quote from: Firehawk068 on August 05, 2015, 07:29:02 PM
Are all 4 choke plungers returning to the fully closed (in) position when you turn the choke lever off?
It's possible that #2 and #3 are stuck in the open position?  :scratch_one-s_head:

i think yes but i will double check again. but its def. a flooding problem. i can see gas running down the carb 3 and 2 had a black plug too already.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

element303

Quote from: FJmonkey on August 05, 2015, 07:39:41 PM
Quote from: krusty on August 05, 2015, 07:34:47 PM
Checked the correct routing of the fuel line? I believe that its critical. Check your shop manual (if you have one) for illustration. If you don't have one someone here will have a link to it.

Good call Krusty, that is an easy thing to check. After the fuel line wraps around carb top #3 then it goes under the "Y" splitter and into the petcock fitting. Going over the "Y" fitting can cause the line to kink. If it kinks enough then your 10MM fuel line becomes smaller. I will search for the post that covers this.

edit... found it



In this image the line returns under one of the two lines, the OEM routing is under both lines before it connects to the petcock.

Thanks to Mr Blackstock for the image....

Here is the full post

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=8015.msg73889#msg73889



thank you guys for this. this explains what the thing is good on carb 3 haha. actually, i shortened the main fuel like that comes from the tank to make sure it really flows with gravity. its not bend or anything and i can see the fuel running in the T piece. its getting too much fuel in the flooded ones. i checked all that already. fuel lines are good and not bend and it flows freely.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

Pat Conlon

Quote from: element303 on August 05, 2015, 10:37:21 PM
...the carb dont need a rebuild kit really. even the rubber on the needle is still in good condition. 

The rubber tips on the float needles may be fine, but something's causing the flooding.

My money is on the float needle seat O rings.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

element303

yes, you might be right. i went through pics again how to adjust the float level and im gonna do that again now and take out the seats to check. then i will bring all floats in the perfect position based on the manual.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

element303

ok so once again i have the carbs out and open, cause i love it so much, and i took pics of the needle seats of the #2 & 3 carb. they seem to be intact, instead of pieces of the o-ring missing, there is actually some excess material around it. it looks worst on the pic and macro but i will pull out the other 2 as well now to see how they look. i guess i could try to clean it so its smooth. doesnt really look that bad to me. what do you think? i made a took to measure the float hight perfectly again and will do that now.

There is no such thing as too much cheese

Flynt

those o-rings are shot...  once they are cut like that, they won't seal.  You should replace them.

Frank
There's plenty of time for sleep in the grave...

FJmonkey

Like Frank said, the o-rings are shot. They are inexpensive and responsible for holding back highly flammable liquid so think about your cost vs. risk.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

element303

well yeah i just tried to take one of the "good" ones off and it broke right away. im gonna check some places to see if im lucky to find it around here. dont really wanna wait a whole week again since i got a 3day permission to drive it yesterday and wanna make use of it. but at least that seems to be the issue that i have. maybe i should rename the subject so other people can find help too.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

FJmonkey

Make sure the o-ring material is compatible to fuel and ethanol.

This should help.
http://www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

element303

good call. i will go to a local carb dude. im sure he have a box full of o-rings.
There is no such thing as too much cheese

racerrad8

Make sure you get the right size. Too small it will still leak. Too big and you will have to ruin the needle seats to get them out next time. These are guaranteed to fit Needle Seat O-Ring Set

Robert - RPM
Randy - RPM