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84 FJ1100 Dusted off After 10 yrs, Help

Started by Sparky84, April 09, 2015, 03:40:24 AM

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movenon

Not the best picture but next to the Uni Pod filters there is a silver tab (frame tab). The top empty hole is one of the bolt holes for the stock FJ air box below that there is a larger bolt,  remove that bolt on both sides along with all the 10mm bolts into your air box (one on top, one one each side). The rear sub frame will now pivot down enough to help get the air box out. Do it while on the center stand..



George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

Sparky84

Quote from: movenon on April 10, 2015, 04:46:55 PM
Not the best picture but next to the Uni Pod filters there is a silver tab (frame tab). The top empty hole is one of the bolt holes for the stock FJ air box below that there is a larger bolt,  remove that bolt on both sides along with all the 10mm bolts into your air box (one on top, one one each side). The rear sub frame will now pivot down enough to help get the air box out. Do it while on the center stand..



George

That is a pretty Good picture, found them so easily
I could see nothing about these mentioned in the service manual under Carburetor Removal which I have just be looking in again
Its 8.21am here and the day just got much better to your photographic skills

Alan
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Sparky84

George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.

I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again

Anybody got an idea?
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

movenon

Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 03:36:27 AM
George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.

I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again

Anybody got an idea?

I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4  (check all of them and write down the data for future info).  If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.

The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier.  It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere.  Less problems = more fun.

George


Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

Sparky84

Quote from: movenon on April 11, 2015, 09:04:15 AM
Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 03:36:27 AM
George that made things so easy, but I still had trouble with OEM air box fitting back on carbs, I do like the look of those Uni Pods, thanks heaps for that info.

I have a problem with engine temperature, at present while idling #4 cylinder is sitting on 70°C but the other 3 are about 135°C.
Headers are the same 1,2 & 3 are 155°C and 4 is sitting around 70 again

Anybody got an idea?

I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4  (check all of them and write down the data for future info).  If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.

The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier.  It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere.  Less problems = more fun.

George




Plugs in 3&4 are black, 1&2 are a lot cleaner, I didn't have trouble starting after quick inspection of idle mixture screws (and I did loose little black o-ring, could see it anywhere so I undid those bolt, pushed the tail down, took carbs out, heat sheild out, then banged the carbs a bit and there was the little sucker) but it was revving way too high,
Backed idle screw off, then it wouldn't start, almost flattened battery, took out plugs and cleaned and reset gap.

It then started, that's when I noticed difference in Temp

I will do compression test tomorrow, I took note of turns from stop, none were the same. I reset all to 2 but after a bit of lite reading sounds like it should be 2.5-3 to start off.

Like you I'm not after performance with the filters but ease of maintenance. I still have stock pipes and 42 cog on the back
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Flying Scotsman

Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.
1984 FJ1100
1985 FJ1100
1990 FJ1200
1999 GP1200 (165 + hp)

Pat Conlon

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.

Could also be a air balance issue from the #4 carb not getting enough air....try syncing the carbs.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

The General


I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once  :dash2:)

Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago.  (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!)     :drinks:
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

Sparky84

Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.

I did check float heights when I cleaned all the green puss out and all measured within tolerances
But I will be going back into these to give another clean with all possible jets out this time and with new ones to go back in with a size #40 also
I'll be doing compression test today and seeing a few mates if they have a set of vacuum gauges
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Sparky84

Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 11, 2015, 10:06:13 AM
Quote from: Flying Scotsman on April 11, 2015, 09:55:05 AM
Cold pipes could easy be carb float height.When was that looked at last.All 4 should be the same height.

Could also be a air balance issue from the #4 carb not getting enough air....try syncing the carbs.

I will be checking on a few mates to see if they have vacuum gauges or a carbtune kit, if that fails I'll be ordering a Carbtune Pro kit this arvo $202aud delivered within 5 days from Queensland or $140aud delivered within 5 days from the UK, I know who will get my hard earned..
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Sparky84

Quote from: The General on April 11, 2015, 10:50:17 AM

I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once  :dash2:)

Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago.  (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!)     :drinks:

Might move #4 to #1 that way I can measure temperatures, yeh sometimes its the easy ones that are hard
Like a call out because "I have no power" and when you get they you flick the power point switch on

Sounds like your a "Shire Boy"?
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

The General

Quote from: Sparky84 on April 11, 2015, 05:51:13 PM
Quote from: The General on April 11, 2015, 10:50:17 AM

I`d be swapping over the spark plug position first. (I`m a sparky and it was the last thing I checked, once  :dash2:)

Luv your suburb by the way....road in trials near there years ago.  (Deadmans Creek on a pushbike was good too!)     :drinks:

Might move #4 to #1 that way I can measure temperatures, yeh sometimes its the easy ones that are hard
Like a call out because "I have no power" and when you get they you flick the power point switch on

Sounds like your a "Shire Boy"?
We must be psychic!....Prospect County Council 1966 to 1977. Now Integral energy me thinks! (Originally Holroyd Shire) ....I was a lunchtime eukka card champion....When the pot went to cash I wasn`t game ta tell them I was cheating!.....so me and the other apprentice backed off and bowed out gracefully....we put a great deal of value on our balls at the time!  :drinks:
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

Sparky84



I would do a compression check, "read" the plugs, and check the valve clearances on #4  (check all of them and write down the data for future info).  If all that checks out then closely look into #4 carb.

The OEM air box has always been a pain. I put up with it for a few years, even modified it at one time then bought the Uni Pods. I love them. I didn't buy them for performance reasons, I bought them because it made maintenance a lot easier.  It is one thing to work on the carbs at home and quite another to work on them while on the road somewhere.  Less problems = more fun.

George



[/quote]
Compression test done, all sitting between 132 and 145, it says 175 in book, I hope these readings are ok

So it looks likely the carbs, waiting now for Sync kit to arrive
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Sparky84

I did manage to flatten battery enough so it won't kick over now, also wound mixture screws another 1/2 turn so now its 2 &1/2 out


Does anyone know how to just add to posts without replying with quotes
1984 FJ1100
1979 Kawasaki Z1300
1972 Honda CB750/4 K2

Pat Conlon

The "reply" button is to the bottom right.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3