84 FJ1100 Dusted off After 10 yrs, Help

[Sparky84]

Carbs were stripped, flushed and blow dried, still don't like the OEM air box as it gets in the way when refitting carbs.
This time I took note of jet sizes, #40, #112.5 and #160.
Set mixture screw to 2 1\4 turns back. Idles nicely now
After installation bike started only after charging battery, that's the problem.

Anybody got a Lithium battery fitted?
They seem to start the bike quick but don't seem to last with headlights and other bits on, voltage drops instantaneously
On idle with lights off 11.8 volts going into battery, 10.4 with lights on and 14.5 sitting at about 2000rpm,
Does this sound correct or is it overcharging while riding

[movenon]

I have a lithium battery.  I don't recall the idle charging voltage but under way cruising down the road mine at present is charging 14.3 - 14.4 volts. If you like tomorrow I can check my idle charging rate. The spec's such as they are claim my battery is good up to a max charging voltage of 15.5 volts.  A lot of the spec's for any of the lithium's depends on the management circuits or control board inside the battery.  Some just have a balancing circuit some have balancing, over voltage protection, auto shut off if no charge is present after a specified time, heat protection, low voltage shut off etc.
George

[Sparky84]

I have a lithium battery.  I don't recall the idle charging voltage but under way cruising down the road mine at present is charging 14.3 - 14.4 volts. If you like tomorrow I can check my idle charging rate. The spec's such as they are claim my battery is good up to a max charging voltage of 15.5 volts.  A lot of the spec's for any of the lithium's depends on the management circuits or control board inside the battery.  Some just have a balancing circuit some have balancing, over voltage protection, auto shut off if no charge is present after a specified time, heat protection, low voltage shut off etc.
George

Thanks George that would be Great
Did I see somewhere that you fitted a gauge or regulator in the forum somewhere?

Just trying to find out if I have a dud battery or not.
Its a Skyrich SSB Powersport, LFP14AHQ-BS, supposedly the correct one

[movenon]

I have an adjustable voltage regulator.  My stock regulator failed or was failing.  It was charging over 15.2 volts which was at or very near the Yamaha limits.  So I elected to go with an external adjustable unit.  For me the external regulator is cheaper, easier to service, adjustable and it removes some of the heat out of the alternator.

Installing a digital volt meter it is an inexpensive (e bay) and easy mod. .  Nice to know the voltage at all times.  Analog meter is good also and preferred by some.
George

[Sparky84]

I have an adjustable voltage regulator.  My stock regulator failed or was failing.  It was charging over 15.2 volts which was at or very near the Yamaha limits.  So I elected to go with an external adjustable unit.  For me the external regulator is cheaper, easier to service, adjustable and it removes some of the heat out of the alternator.

Installing a digital volt meter it is an inexpensive (e bay) and easy mod. .  Nice to know the voltage at all times.  Analog meter is good also and preferred by some.
George

My digital meter at present requires me to pull the seat off and hold the probes on the battery terminals,   

[movenon]

OK here is what I have. Here in the U.S. we can not turn the headlight off (unless we mod the switch).  Lots of small variables. My headlight, tail light and  cluster lights are LED's (less current draw),  Coil relay mod.,  External adjustable voltage regulator.  Import 4 brush starter 2 years old,  Relatively a fresh/new battery.  I am not saying that my battery is any better or worse than any other.  It is just what I am using so you will know what I am referencing from.

Battery:  http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor
Oil Temp 61 degrees
Ignition switched on, with headlight and taillight on, not cranking. 13.0 volts
I watched the volt meter during cranking and it dipped briefly to 11.9 volts.
Cold idle for the first few seconds after start up 13.7 volts
Stabilized charging voltage (with in 60-90 seconds of start up) 14.3-14.4 volts.
Bike fired right away on the first try with small amount of choke.


A little off target but here is a video of a cold start procedure for a lithium battery.  But in general it applies to starting with a lithium battery.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk
George

[Sparky84]

OK here is what I have. Here in the U.S. we can not turn the headlight off (unless we mod the switch).  Lots of small variables. My headlight, tail light and  cluster lights are LED's (less current draw),  Coil relay mod.,  External adjustable voltage regulator.  Import 4 brush starter 2 years old,  Relatively a fresh/new battery.  I am not saying that my battery is any better or worse than any other.  It is just what I am using so you will know what I am referencing from.

Battery:  http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/lithium-iron-batteries/sstx14ahq-fp.html#reviewsAnchor
Oil Temp 61 degrees
Ignition switched on, with headlight and taillight on, not cranking. 13.0 volts
I watched the volt meter during cranking and it dipped briefly to 11.9 volts.
Cold idle for the first few seconds after start up 13.7 volts
Stabilized charging voltage (with in 60-90 seconds of start up) 14.3-14.4 volts.
Bike fired right away on the first try with small amount of choke.


A little off target but here is a video of a cold start procedure for a lithium battery.  But in general it applies to starting with a lithium battery.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBfvR1EJJBk
George

Good info George, thanks for taking the time to do that
It looks like from your data there mine is very similar except with lights on (could be LED lights) but my battery never recovers back to 12v after turning bike off,
It stays at 10.2, so I would say my battery is a Dud and I better fit a external voltmeter

What type of LED headlight do you have fitted?
And what is the light output like for distance?

Video was informative, at least he had a battery that kept recovering to 12v mine just doesn't recover

[Sparky84]

Oil Temp 61 degrees

George

George, What gauge do you have fitted, I would find that very useful

Alan

[movenon]

Oil Temp 61 degrees

George

George, What gauge do you have fitted, I would find that very useful

Alan

Only reason I mentioned the temp was that it was a cold engine. Here is a picture of the gage I am using.  It is a LCD read out and is set up so that it reads the current temp and about every 5 seconds it will flash the highest temp it has seen.  It stores that high temp reading until it cools down to below 130 degrees and then go's back above 130 degrees. A poor mans data log?


http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/722-es2

If I were to do it again I would shop around on e bay.  Pay attension to the sender threads (I had to drill and tap my adapter).  You will need an adapter like this no matter which unit you would buy.   http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Engine%3ARPMMGP&cat=39

There are also some that replace the oil fill cap.
George

[Pat Conlon]

George, is that oil temp gauge illuminated for night riding? I think a oil temp gauge is a very good idea, not for seeing the max temp, but to see when the oil is up to proper operating temp (180*) before visiting the kookaloo zone.

[movenon]

George, is that oil temp gauge illuminated for night riding? I think a oil temp gauge is a very good idea, not for seeing the max temp, but to see when the oil is up to proper operating temp (180*) before visiting the kookaloo zone.

Unfortunately no it is not lit but I don't find that a big problem.  I like the feature of locking in the high temp because at the end of a ride or when I stop for fuel I can check it.  With new rings, fresh head, new oil cooler etc. I wanted a small meter to monitor the temps.  I have always been curious as to how the temps run in the FJ just for general knowledge.  Last week in a 70 degree day at cruse 3-4500 with a surge up to 5500 RPM it was running 175-195.  At one long city stop it hit 230.  At a shorter stop it is easy to run at 200-210 degrees.  That's my very limited experience with it.  It will be interesting to follow during the summer.  That's running some dino break in oil.  As soon as I get 500 miles on it I will change to synthetic.  I know you won't Pat but for others please don't start an oil thread... .

In some ways it is probably nicer to not know how hot the oil gets in the FJ.   But if I make changes I will have something to reference from.

On another subject that is dear to some of us. I bought a container of "Blue Magic Metal Polish" from Wall-Mart. And it is very similar to Semichrome. A little less expensive and readily available. It works.
George

[Sparky84]

Finally got time to Clean Front brake Calipers out, fit master cylinder kit and caliper seals and fit braided lines, They still work but lever is much Quieter, (if someone could explain how to put a short video up you will hear what my brake lever sounded like)

Now its time for the for Clutch Push Slave and Master Cylinder Kits,

Just 1 Question Should I get a Braided Line for this or use existing as the Line has a Metal Pipe running past the engine head which I assume is for heat protection and the OEM rubber ones would not have survived running that close to head
or will the braided be just as good as the metal pipe and survive the head from head?

and Yes I still have rear brake to do also

Engine temps are still higher by approx 15 degrees C on #4 side compared to #1

[Arnie]

Hi Sparky,

All your hydraulic lines, brakes and clutch are now 31 years old.
They are well past their 'use by' date.  They should all be replaced.
SS braided lines work fine for the clutch run.
You'll have much less hassle bleeding the clutch system if you fill it from the bleed nipple on  the slave.
Use a disposable syringe and wrap a turn or two of teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder.

Those brake lines are absolutely in need of replacement too if they are the originals.
Fitting SS braided lines is the best improvement you can make to your braking.

Arnie

[Sparky84]

Thanks for that Arnie,

So the braided clutch line will be OK with the heat from cylinder head?

Yeh, first time I used a syringe was on the front brakes,
and the pressure was pushing fluid out pass thread of bleeder, so I did use Teflon tape on there and worked great.

Is the Teflon tape OK with heat from calipers though?

Alan

[Tiger]

So the braided clutch line will be OK with the heat from cylinder head?

Yes, I changed ALL of my brake and clutch lines out for S S braided lines on my '85, three years ago, with no problems

John.