Dont tell me it really is in the ignitor   

Had the bike die on me while riding yesterday. Pump wouldn't prime when turning the bike on, had a buddy grab a coupler for me, disconnected the pump that way it wouldnt be running dry if it was intermittent. Alan told me though that it runs off of the rod position of the solenoid on the diaphragm.

I just got back and tested continuity on the pump itself and it rang out good, then i checked for voltage from the connector with the bike running and then continuity and got no voltage and open line of course!

Thankfully all my other spare carbs are for gravity fed! 

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 11, 2025, 06:27:11 PMAll fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this

Tell me why this just happened to me yesterday well at least I got one now!

I'm using this bulb on my FJ nice and bright

https://ebay.us/m/9fuj4n

Are you touching the glass on the bulb? That will do it.
Is the plug securely clicking on the tangs of the bulb?
You are using the dust shield, right?  Is it on correctly, arrow pointing up?

Rule out vibrations:
Is the bulb spring retainer clip properly latching, good and solid? No rattles?
Is the headlight housing properly mounted with oem vibration isolation bushings?
They wear out, dry up and degrade, gotta get fresh rubber bushings sometimes.
Headlight housing mounting bolts too tight, over torqued?

I used Sylvania and Oscram bulbs years ago but have since converted to LED so I don't know which halogen bulbs are the best today. I do know the headlight relay harness mod was very effective in getting the maximum wattage to the halogen bulbs, although not really needed with the LEDs.

Folks can chime in on today's best halogen bulbs, I'm not current.

Electrical system ok? Did you check your red plug? Is your system overcharging?

hey boys

my 88 1200 keeps blowing headlight bulbs. voltage seems ok.

any ideas?

Email sent


Fred

Here in the states Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace Hardware, etc, all sell non ethanol gas the landscaping folks use in their equipment.

If you can't find any ethanol free fuel, at least drain the bowls on your carbs.

 Remember if you simply shut the fuel off to your carbs and run the engine until it stops, the fuel level in the carbs only drops below the level of pilot jets, meaning there is still fuel left in the bowls. Gotta drain those dry.

Best wishes for winter.
I'm glad to be living in Arizona.
 I hear that they make special shovels designed for snow...is that true? 

Find a race shop or dealer that sells race gas. They will be able to get non ethanol fuel for you.

A cheaper option would be to find a local airport and get some 100LL it won't run the greatest but at least it's ethanol free and won't gum it up.

good to hear, if you continue to having starting issues in the cold I think that's just normal with an old carb bike but you could improve it slightly by bumping up the pilot jet one size. Bike looks stock so if pilots are 37.5 you could put in 40.0 pilots that may help.

Great news everyone!!! I kept the bike inside overnight and warmed it up for an hour with a space heater, it didn't start initially but I shot a light blast of starter fluid behind the air filter as 86FJNJ suggested and the bike fired right up and appears to be running and starting like normal again!   

Pat I appreciate the insight regarding E10, I'll be storing the bike for the winter soon and will take the proper care. Unfortunately up here in Canada, it's not possible to find ethanol-free fuel anymore. The bike will definitely be parked indoors from now on.

Thanks everyone!!!