My clutch was slipping and the first thing I was instructed to look at is my oil to make sure I was not using something with additives that would impact the clutch engagement. This seems like it should be obvious but it is pretty common that an incorrect automotive oil with cleaners or additives was used by mistake or at some point in the bikes life - that will affect clutch grab.

I installed a second disc spring in my bike which doubled up the lever firmness and corrected the slip but not entirely. 

I missed the "soft" lever and full engagement that I once knew and went with the Barnett Coil Spring Plate for about $145. It was easy to install. Eliminated all slippage and was a reasonably low pull weight at the lever. I also switched to the Oberon Slave Cylinder and was able to bleed my clutch more thoroughly and more easily than ever before. 

I currently have the best clutch I have ever had on my bike... 

There are many paths and options on the clutch. Just replacing the OEM spring with a new one and making sure your plates are flat, clean and within tolerance should do it.  Correct oil of course. 

Any scoring or burning on the fiber plates after experiencing slippage would result in replacement with a new set for me. If the steels are flat they can be cleaned of scoring and reused.  I lay mine on a piece of glass in the garage and see if they wiggle at all.  Any movement means its warped and a new plate should be used.

tim

2 different, unrelated issues. Clutch plate slippage vs transmission gear disengaging.

You can fix either one, yet still have the other issue.

Transmission gear disengagement typically happens in 2nd gear.

 Clutch plate slippage can happen in any gear, usually a hard roll on in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

Fixing a slipping clutch will not help nor hurt the transmission gear problem.

Apples and Oranges.

I have the same issue and was under the impression a new "spring" from RPM would likely solve it.
EBC Clutch Spring FJ1100 FJ1200 XJR1200 XJR1300 Direct replacement or use as a secondary spring for improved performance.
Price: $55.00
also very easy install, just get a new gasket/oil.
Clutch Cover Gasket; Yamaha FJ1100-1200, XJ1200 and XJR1300
Clutch Cover Gasket

FJ1200/XJ1200/XJR1300
Price: $10.31
I very well may be wrong.

If I grab some throttle the bike will feel like the clutch is slipping. Big revs but no acceleration feels like the chain popped off for a second, and then it will eventually catch and accelerate.

In prior posts I've been told this is the typical stripped gear dogs which the earlier FJ's are known for. It's not a big issue, doesn't happen when riding normal which is how I ride 99% of the time, but I'm curious if upgrading the clutch with the springs that RPM sells would help reduce the severity of that slippage?

Also is upgrading the clutch a big job or a pretty easy remove and replace?

Quote from: Motofun on March 01, 2026, 06:03:28 AMThe other thing you can do is reset the tripometer every fill up......

This is what I do, I just fill up every 100 miles and usually at that time I still have probably a gallon left in the tank

Mine bounces around wildly after about 1/4 down after filling, wish I could stop it.

But I use the trip meter as the gauge.

I had hanging idle, you'd give it a quick blip and it'd stay up before going down .... Turned out to be electronic ignition module

A couple more from a Great weekend

Great advice. Thanks for keeping me on track, Pat and 86FJNJ!

This morning Robert at RPM called saying that work on the carbs is completed and they will be shipped later this week along with the additional items that were ordered. 

It looks like it's time to transition into the completion phase of this project.

Steve

I agree with pat, engine disassembly opens a can of worms. When bike is assembled with fairings you really only see the sides of the fins, I'd tape it off and spray it in the frame if you plan to ride it this season. You can always pull the engine next winter if you want.