We got it fired up a few weeks ago.

Currently the subframe is getting redesigned/remade to move the rear end up a touch to accommodate the diffuser. Once that is done we are going to make some customs front tie rods to use heims on the stock spindles. We keep blowing through stock lower tie rods every couple weekends. (I think it ticks just over 3g load when cornering. The data on the videos shows.)

Then we will make a flat floor for it from the front splitter back to the rear diffuser to make it all nice and smooth.

Dyno time after that, then hopefully a test day before Gridlife Laguna which is in September. Gridlife and the global time attack finals in November will be the next competition days for it.

Interesting, thanks Robert...

One last Q: When will the new beefy tostada engine debut?

Thanks!

Sorry, spaced out. We put some over fenders on it and are running 11" Hoosier a7s. Got the weight down to 2413lbs full of 12qts of oil 8 gallons of gas and driver.
Car is balanced very well
50% cross weight
51.3% left side weight
55.8% front 44.2% rear. This will actually get a bit closer to 50/50 as we are having to redesign the rear subframe to move the Winters quick change up in order to get the diffuser under the car. In doing so we are beefing the subframe up from 1.5" .083 wall tubing to 1.5" .125 wall as we were having so issues with the tube cracking the last few weekends with the thin wall stuff.

Thanks Robert!

Quote from: Pat Conlon on June 23, 2025, 01:55:18 PMVery cool Robert, say hello to Ryan for me.
With that big bump in rwhp do you have enough tire?
Not a lot of room in those Miata's even with flairs.
Do you have a web page for this beast? I would love to follow you crazy guys.. 

Cheers lads
Fr. Paddy

Ryan is on instagram ryanr_18 and youtube LS3 Time attack miata with some build pics and in car vids

If I don't it by then that would be a massive help dean! 

Orafol do make UV resistant wrapping films that won't fade in 10 minutes in the sun, but you have to specify that you want the extra UV resistant type. 3M products are generally thought of as the best quality products in the industry, although definitely not the cheapest.

I used to be Managing Director of one of biggest vehicle wrapping companies in the UK before I retired and the skill needed to do a good wrap job on a bike, that will also last a good time, is very rare indeed. They can look great for a year or two, but the complex shapes of bike bodywork are a nightmare to cover without differential stretching or excessive cutting and can look absolutely terrible very quickly. To get anything other than a single colour wrap needs digitally printed graphics on vinyl, otherwise you're just sticking multiple pieces of cut vinyl on top of each other, which on a bike can be a visual disaster (not such an issue on a truck/van).

Our advice to bikers was always "Go for paint", wrapping a bike is rarely a worthwhile proposition and it's not a long-lasting one.

Sorry I can't be more positive, but years of experience and many attempts at wrapping bike parts (the company used my 2003 Aprilia RSV 1000 bodywork as their test mule) and we never got a satisfactory finish or job with wrapping film.

A better option, would be hydro-dipping, but again that is very specialised, and all parts need to coated in a clear lacquer (clear coat painting) anyway, so you might as well just go with painting in the first place.

We did hundreds of police bikes and "blood bikes", but they were all decal-based jobs (decals some with very intricate designs digitally printed onto them, or  laid onto painted panels), not wraps and they were never a problem.

I'm in Germany, on a bike touring holiday with my FJ at the moment, but will be home on Thursday.

I could pop the wheel out at the weekend and measure it if you need me to?

Welcome Rob, glad you found that bike!

Cheers lad....Pat