The 4 small choke actuator plungers and/or the slider rod on your carbs could also be gummed up.
Disconnect the choke cable at the carbs and make sure the choke rod slides freely.and plungers plunge.
Chances are, the problem is not your choke cable or the handlebar twist lever, but some gummed up carbs or choke linkage. 

Tom,

Chances are, the old choke cable is toast.  Once you get a new choke cable, you may have to cut the old cable to remove it.  You can get a dedicated cable lube tool - click the link:

Cable Lube Tool



Most motorcycle shops will have this item, but the retail prices can be a surprise.  The cable goes into the lange hole, and the skinny red straw goes into the small hole.  A shot of good quality petroleum lube (which is NOT WD-40) every month or two will keep all of your cables healthy.

You can order a new choke cable here.

https://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A84-85ChokeCable


Fred

Hi everyone,

The choke cable on my FJ1100 is stuck. It is the cable itself or the switch mechanism inside the switch box on the steering handle which is causing the problem, not the rod attached to the carburettor.

I am away and can not inspect it right now, but I am thinking of how to solve this issue anyway.

Is it likely to be the cable itself or the switch mechanism inside the switch box? Will I eventually need a new cable or any other parts for the switch, or can I split open the box and do an easier fix somehow?


All the best

Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 04, 2025, 07:55:49 PMYes, you would need a 12v 10 amp spst relay controlled by your key on ignition circuit. The fuel pump would be powered by a dedicated home run to the battery (w/10 amp fuse) and fed thru the relay then to the fuel pump safety switch, then to the pump.

When I do this mod I'll take pictures and create a post over in the Modification Files.

Yes Pat that is what I would like to do to all of my gravity feed fjs. Another one of my thousands of projects. I'll be looking forward to your how to write up.

Reading on ignatech's website, it looks like you would be best to try the crankshaft trigger wheel and pickup from a fuel injected XJR1300.  This trigger wheel is 24-2 and there is a setting for that it appears. 

You are using the stock FJ pickup with the ignitech module, are you sure they are compatible?
Here is the USA the Dyna tech ignition is popular and the Dyna ignition module needs to be used with Dyna's own proprietary pickup.

It's not the wiring I think, I think I have the wrong settings for the ignitech

AFAIK the difference is in the cylinder head size and the hole being much smaller. I believe they look identical to the US standard inlet rubbers minus the outlet hole side.

Welcome Glen, RPM hosts this forum and they are builders/racers. Check out post #11 in this for a simple wire diagram https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15285.0