The schematic .

 It could be a bad diode in the diode block #27 on the factory manual schematic.The kickstand relay contacts when closed ground out the ignition control and prevents the spark plugs from firing. When the kickstand is up it closes the switch and gives the kickstand relay coil a path to ground energizing the coil and causing the relay contacts to open up ungrounding the ignition module and allows spark. There is a second path to ground for the kickstand relay coil that goes through a diode to the nuetral switch to ground. If that diode goes out then the only way to ground for the kickstand relay is through the kickstand switch.

Quote from: Millietant on Yesterday at 07:43:46 AMMine starts and runs in neutral with the side stand down (with and without the clutch pulled in).

If pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear with the engine running and the stand down, the bike cuts out, so I can't ride off with the side stand down. That's the way it's supposed to work 

Quote from: Millietant on Yesterday at 07:43:46 AMMine starts and runs in neutral with the side stand down (with and without the clutch pulled in).

If pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear with the engine running and the stand down, the bike cuts out, so I can't ride off with the side stand down. That's the way it's supposed to work 

Yes, I'm aware of how it is supposed to work.  Mine won't run in neutral with the side stand down.  That's what I am trying to troubleshoot.

Quote from: Billy Bananahead on Yesterday at 06:50:34 AMI thought that what you are describing is right. Is what you're doing all with the bike on the centre stand?
It's a safety switch to stop you riding off with the side stand down. Unless i'm reading it wrong.

You're reading it wrong.  The bike will not run (no ignition) in neutral with side stand down.  That's my problem.

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 25, 2026, 03:53:58 PMI am thinking on this one to keep forks....already rebuild with progressive spring, cartridges and plates. Did bracket for Tokico calipers as well....

Sounds like you will need to find the right diameter (check the thickness as well) rotors and make sure they are set the same width apart as the '86 when mounted, so they center in the calipers properly.
[/quote]

Yes, this is correct.
Anyone install entire 87/88 FZR front end? Any benefits other than wheel and rotors? Does it fit?

Mine starts and runs in neutral with the side stand down (with and without the clutch pulled in).

If pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear with the engine running and the stand down, the bike cuts out, so I can't ride off with the side stand down. That's the way it's supposed to work 

Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2026, 08:56:53 PMMikuni sells them set up for different spacing. The FJ spacing is 77-85-77. The carb spacing is adjustable but you want to buy them already set up for an FJ. The models that fit the FJ are RS36-D8-K and the RS38-D35-K . They use the stock intake manifolds but you will need individual pod air filters. RPM's great dual pod filters unfortunately won't fit. You will also need a motion pro throttle tube assembly and push pull cables. One plus is that replacing a set of cables is much cheaper than replacing a set of oem FJ cables.
 They come with a manual pull choke. My first set of carbs have a bracket that allows the use of the stock FJ choke set up but I don't know if those are still available. I don't use the choke anyway. With the accelerator pumps I just twist the throttle twice to pump in a little gas and the bike fires every time even at below  freezing temperatures.

Thank you for the information. You've given me a lot to think about. But I do have another question. Is the requirement for the airpod filters a matter of space the new Carbs take? Or simple a matter of the boots between the airbox and the carb not being remotely compatible? Or Thirdly, a matter of needing a direct airflow path regardless.

If the issue is merely the connection between the airbox and the RS36/38's being the problem, I can actually make custom ones since it's on the cold side and won't destroy injection molded TPU.

I thought that what you are describing is right. Is what you're doing all with the bike on the centre stand?
It's a safety switch to stop you riding off with the side stand down. Unless i'm reading it wrong.

Quote from: MarioR on February 24, 2026, 11:01:44 AM

Quote from: RPM - Robert on February 24, 2026, 10:35:03 AMCorrect on the 86/87 model it should not flow any fuel until vacuum is applied. If it is flowing fuel the petcock is bad.

The 84-85 has a prime function which will flow fuel when the selector switch is in the prime position but in the on position it should not flow fuel until vacuum is applied.

Thank you Robert.

I recently had to get a rebuild kit from RPM for me 84 because my tank started marking its territory when I took it off the bike. Put on the rebuild kit and it seals it right back up.

I'm having trouble figuring this out.  1985 FJ1100.  Bike starts and runs fine in neutral with the kickstand up.  When I lower the kickstand (with bike still in neutral), the starter cranks over but the bike won't start.  When running in neutral, if I lower the kickstand, the bike dies.  If I pull the clutch in, bike will run in neutral or in gear with the kickstand down (or up).  And when the bike is in neutral, the neutral light on the dash always lights up. 

so far I tested the kickstand safety switch and I get no continuity when it is down and low resistance (about 40 ohms) when it is up.  It's supposed to have full continuity (0 ohms) when up, so I don't know if 40 ohms is close enough to full continuity, or not. 

I also tested the side stand relay and the results don't make any sense to me.  The resistance across the powered leads reads 75 ohms which is within spec.  When I apply power to these leads, I can hear the relay clicking.  With power applied, I have no continuity (infinite resistance) across the other two leads, and without power, I have full continuity (no resistance).  this is the opposite of what should happen, according to the service manual. 

I haven't tested the neutral light switch yet.  But the green neutral light is working.  It is possible to have the neutral light working but the switch failed ??

I'm a little lost.  Hopefully my description above isn't too confusing.