So new to the forum and definitely new to this bike. I thought I would post some tear down stuff since this has definitely had work/mods done to it. I figured people here know way more than I do about what needs to happen immediately outside of the typical fj stuff.
I want to make absolutely clear... this bike is so easy to open up and work on stuff! Wow...just incredible. So here are some quick tear down pics more to come as the days go by. And questions too.
Some precursor information. The bike runs and rides great. In the few miles I have done. No issues at all!
I have never seen a gas tank liner, but I tried to get a picture of the inside. There is something funky on the tanks so unless that's how yamaha did tanks I am guessing someone redid it.
I have a ton of carb stuff that I know very little about. And I have been told these carbs have been modded, how much I don't know yet. Stay tuned...(get it?)
Some is called factory pro. The other is no name just a bunch of baggies with ss parts for the carbs.
Till tomorrow
Rev,
Somebody you know there has a borescope. One with LED lighting and focusing ability, running on a simple USB connection (bring your own laptop), would cost around US$50 or less from Amazon. We have ways of restoring tanks, if need be. Let us know what you find there. Screen captures from a borescope/laptop are easy to do.
.
More of the photos that didn't upload.
I will look into finding someone with a scope.
If the carbs have been modded, it is usually to make up what you lose with the pod filters. The filters change the airlow thought the carb, and most of us who have them, increase the size of the pilot jets to compensate. General rule. If it ain't borke. Don't fix it.... Borken this rule many times myself, but less about me.
Good to see the old girl get some loving from a man with a direct line to the Man. We have used his name in vain many times with our bikes. :rofl2:
I agree with Mark, check your valves, adjust if necessary, if she runs good, leave her alone.
Re: the health of your tank; yep a borescope is good, also, get a fresh fuel filter and take your old fuel filter and cut it open. Take a peek that the filter element and look closely for rust or flakes from a poorly installed tank liner.
Kreem tank liners are known to peel off and cause all kinds of grief.....your filter will show this...
Cheers
Pat
This bike has almost 16k miles. So still a baby. Tonight was the valve clearance check, plugs, and timing cover. Here are my results.
Camshafts have a tan discoloration on the right side. Is this normal?
Valve clearances were checked on a cold engine. They were all very consistent in measurement.
EX. All checked out as loose at .178mm and very tight at .203mm
IN. All checked out as loose at .127mm and very tight at .152mm
I am pretty sure that is a good thing, but I will let you all give the thumbs up or down.
Plugs seemed to be indicating a possiblity that the air fuel mixture is a tad too rich. However, I also don't know how old these are or if with the aftermarket Dyna ignition that I might want to try a hotter plug. As of now I have had no issues when it comes to starting her. She starts first time every time. Plugs are NGK DP9EA.
I will probably do some more tomorrow, like checking torque and what not.
Does anyone know a good solution to the pealing engine coating?
More pictures
The SS bolts look like leftovers from the RPM carb bolt and o-ring kit.
Unless the motor has been beefed up, I'd back that rev limiter down to no more than 10K RPM. Stock rev limit is 9.5K. Unless you've got something extra to keep the valves from floating I wouldn't take it too far over 9.5K.
The brown stain on the cams is normal.
Stock plug is DPR8EA-9. The DP9EA-9 could be a colder plug. I think with NGK a higher number is colder. I'd use the stock plug. EDIT: Just Googled it and bigger number is colder.
Behind the Dyna and that large round connector, look for a 2-lead red connector with red and tan(?) wires. Unplug it and inspect for melting.
My bad. The red connector on that year will be down below the carb heat shield.
As David mentioned, the tan discoloration on the cams is normal. I am not sure what it is, but the discoloration is on every FJ cam that I have seen. Photo is my freshly rebuilt head done by RPM.
Fred
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on January 20, 2020, 08:02:36 PM
My bad. The red connector on that year will be down below the carb heat shield.
I am out of town right now, but you want me to look below the carb heat shield for melted wires?
Not melted wires, but a melted plug.
Read this: https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18995.0 (https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18995.0)
Does this look like the problem plug?
Yep, that looks like the plug to me.
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 24, 2020, 06:11:35 PM
Yep, that looks like the plug to me.
It is definitely melted! Do you have a favorite fix out of the ones listed?
Quote from: RevDeal on January 24, 2020, 06:16:39 PM
Quote from: FJmonkey on January 24, 2020, 06:11:35 PM
Yep, that looks like the plug to me.
It is definitely melted! Do you have a favorite fix out of the ones listed?
Yes, the 1/4 fast on (slip fit), insulated. Reverse the gender so each side has a male and a female and cannot be accidentally cross connected. The failed plug and fix pictured in Pat's post is my FJ.
....and once the fix is made, you ask yourself, "Why did it melt?"
Quote from: Pat Conlon on January 24, 2020, 08:48:34 PM....and once the fix is made, you ask yourself, "Why did it melt?"
Because water got into the connection. Water causes corrosion. Corrosion causes high resistance. Electricity flowing thru a high resistance causes heat. Enough heat and the plastic melts.
The fix is to replace the connector.
The solution is to keep water out of the connector. Short of fiddling about with a sealed connector, the only thing you can do is fill the connector with dielectric grease before you push the connector ends together.
Bill
Equipped on this bike is the RPM rear brake light/turn signal combo. It also has a Givi rack with turn signals. Is it possible to hook up both sets of turn signals without messing up the electrical? Currently there are only indicators wired in the brake light.
Another Question
I may have a solid lead on a 92 GSXR rear wheel conversion. My 1992 FJ has Abs will the abs cause a problem in the swap?
Quote from: RevDeal on February 01, 2020, 09:01:39 PM
Another Question
I may have a solid lead on a 92 GSXR rear wheel conversion. My 1992 FJ has Abs will the abs cause a problem in the swap?
".....will the ABS cause a problem in the swap?"
Nope, it will be the other way around. The swap will cause a problem with the ABS.
No great loss in my book.....I am not a fan of the FJ ABS...
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 01, 2020, 09:15:10 PM
Quote from: RevDeal on February 01, 2020, 09:01:39 PM
Another Question
I may have a solid lead on a 92 GSXR rear wheel conversion. My 1992 FJ has Abs will the abs cause a problem in the swap?
".....will the ABS cause a problem in the swap?"
Nope, it will be the other way around. The swap will cause a problem with the ABS.
No great loss in my book.....I am not a fan of the FJ ABS...
So Pat what are the repercussions?
Can I just do a rear wheel swap right now and remove the abs box or is this a heavy project?
Appreciate the advice, I am not concerned about losing abs.
With the GSXR wheel you will lose the rear wheel sensor which will cause the red abs trouble light to illuminate.
1) Pull the abs fuse.
2) Take all (front and back) the ABS brake lines off.
3) Plan on buying new front and rear brake lines. Run them like the conventional FJ lines.
That will get you on the road..... You can remove the ABS pump and harness at your leisure.
It will be a great time to upgrade to the R1 blue dot monoblock calipers and a 14mm front m/c.
On my 92, I converted to non ABS wheels.
I removed both ABS fuses and nothing else. I did not remove and lines or the pump. All of the original ABS plumbing through the pump is intact.
No troubles with this setup.
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on February 01, 2020, 11:31:01 PM
On my 92, I converted to non ABS wheels.
I removed both ABS fuses and nothing else. I did not remove and lines or the pump. All of the original ABS plumbing through the pump is intact.
No troubles with this setup.
Randy - RPM
Thanks randy that is good to hear! I will check out the front wheel bolt on setup. It may be a project to save up for given the need for both and the availability of rims
If you have already replaced your 28 year old oem rubber lines on your ABS, follow Randy's advice.
If you have not replaced the oem rubber brake lines (you need to) throw the entire ABS brake line system away and follow my advice.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 02, 2020, 12:59:22 PM
If you have already replaced your 28 year old oem rubber lines on your ABS, follow Randy's advice.
If you have not replaced the oem rubber brake lines (you need to) throw the entire ABS brake line system away and follow my advice.
Very well noted!
I have been searching this site for a list of comapitable front rims. I only catch glimpse of the FZR, but nothing for sure.
If I am not mistaken I can always just swap it out for a non abs model front as well?
Not looking to do forks right now, so just a bolt on would be ideal.
Quote from: RevDeal on February 02, 2020, 01:41:25 PM
....If I am not mistaken I can always just swap it out for a non abs model front as well?
Not looking to do forks right now, so just a bolt on would be ideal.
Yes, you could replace your front ABS rim (and rotors) with a FJ non abs rim (and rotors) but why?
There will be no advantage...both 17" rims are 3" wide. You can not use your ABS rotors on your non ABS rim.
Instead, save your money and bide your time....keep an eye out for a 3.5" wide rim.
'87/88 FZR750 or FZR1000 are plug and play, but hard to find.
The '89+ FZR rim will work with special wheel bearings (needed for the FJ 15mm dia. axle) or instead of the special bearings you keep the oem FZR bearings and drill out the FJ fork legs so you can fit the larger 17mm dia. '89+ FZR front axle.
Personally, I like the idea of a using a stronger front 17mm axle on our heavy bikes.
IOW wait on your ABS front rim for a wider 3 1/2" rim.
Maybe this will help with the GSXR rear wheel swap...
I have a pile of GSXR wheels and a 92 FJ12 with the rear wheel off so I did some measuring, then made the attached sketch. It's very basic and needs more info but I think the dimensions are pretty close.
Hope it helps,
Bill
I ditched the ABS on my '93 since it never worked.
I replaced the brakelines with a conventional setup using VENHILL lines.
All the ABS electronics are easily removed. They plug into the main harness and have a handful of connections. The ABS boxes are all located in the tail end of the rear cowl.
The hardest part was getting the ABS pump out. I believe I had to remove the rear shock and disconnect most of the linkages to make room to drop the pump out the bottom.
Quote from: CutterBill on February 02, 2020, 03:50:36 PM
Maybe this will help with the GSXR rear wheel swap...
I have a pile of GSXR wheels and a 92 FJ12 with the rear wheel off so I did some measuring, then made the attached sketch. It's very basic and needs more info but I think the dimensions are pretty close.
Hope it helps,
Bill
Thanks for the diagram! I have complete 92 setup shipping hopefully this week.
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on February 03, 2020, 09:43:50 AM
I ditched the ABS on my '93 since it never worked.
I replaced the brakelines with a conventional setup using VENHILL lines.
All the ABS electronics are easily removed. They plug into the main harness and have a handful of connections. The ABS boxes are all located in the tail end of the rear cowl.
The hardest part was getting the ABS pump out. I believe I had to remove the rear shock and disconnect most of the linkages to make room to drop the pump out the bottom.
I am not sure if mine is working or not. I haven't had it out long enough to know. Pretty much just brought it back to the garage and started getting into it. I am thinking at this point that will be my goal in a year. It's just all about saving that cash to do it the right way. Did you do a custom order I assume for the VENHILL lines? I think I ran across your post talking about their advantages.
Right now, I have the 92 GSXR Rear assembly all coming and the 2000 R1 Blue Dot Calipers. So I will be looking toward finding a front Non-abs rim, rotors and lines. It will come with time.
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 02, 2020, 03:18:24 PM
Quote from: RevDeal on February 02, 2020, 01:41:25 PM
....If I am not mistaken I can always just swap it out for a non abs model front as well?
Not looking to do forks right now, so just a bolt on would be ideal.
Yes, you could replace your front ABS rim (and rotors) with a FJ non abs rim (and rotors) but why?
There will be no advantage...both 17" rims are 3" wide. You can not use your ABS rotors on your non ABS rim.
Instead, save your money and bide your time....keep an eye out for a 3.5" wide rim.
'87/88 FZR750 or FZR1000 are plug and play, but hard to find.
The '89+ FZR rim will work with special wheel bearings (needed for the FJ 15mm dia. axle) or instead of the special bearings you keep the oem FZR bearings and drill out the FJ fork legs so you can fit the larger 17mm dia. '89+ FZR front axle.
Personally, I like the idea of a using a stronger front 17mm axle on our heavy bikes.
IOW wait on your ABS front rim for a wider 3 1/2" rim.
PAT!! Thank you, you're answering all these greenhorn questions with clarity and it really helps. I hate wasting money on things which won't work, plus I have limited access to helpful motorcycle guys in my area. I will probably set out to find the impossible 1987/88 FZR, just to keep the front as stock as possible, if for some strange reason I need to convert it back. For these ABS models do I need to do both front and rear conversions at the same time? Or can I pull the fuses to disable the abs system and convert the back while I hunt for the front rim? Just thinking about ordering new rubber.
We are happy to help you...that's what we do here....
Pull the ABS fuses now. Get new SS brake lines now. Do the GSXR back rim now.
Go ahead and order your 180/55-17 and 120/70-17 rubber now.
You can wait until you get the 3.5" front rim you want. That will be the frosting on the cake. Remember you will also need brake rotors, your ABS brake rotors will not swap over to your new front rim.
When you remove the ABS brake lines, you will be surprised how long they are, and how much shorter the conventional FJ lines are by comparison.
Shorter brake lines are good, SS brake lines are good, 28 year old oem rubber lines, not so much.
When you do remove those old lines, be careful with that nasty ass brake fluid....keep a squirt bottle of water and shop towels close at hand.
I already had SS lines on my '93 with the ABS. Back in the Yahoo days, there was a member that built brake line kits for ABS models (Chris Rawson?)
When I removed the pump all I needed for the front was a short line from the master cylinder to the splitter.
For the rear, I was able to route the line from the pump to the rear caliper over to the rear master.
Measure your old lines using the VENHILL guidelines and get a custom set. You can keep the splitter or run 2 separate lines to the calipers.
Here is a good update: Blue dots have arrived!
Bad update:
Gas tank. The seal looks mostly infected but has bubbles all over. The areas that have been exposed above seem to have some rust. Anyone have solutions and estimated cost? Or should I let it ride?
Gas tank
You all were right! This should be on every new owner's to do first list. Was this battery even charging?!!! What in the corrosion!?
Is the f4i a viable rear spring option for a 1992 fj1200?
No.
https://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/CBR600F4i/2001-06 (https://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/CBR600F4i/2001-06)
A search thru the Race Tech web site for the specs on the 2001-2006 Honda CBR600 F4i shows the oem rear shock spring to be 795 lbs/in (14.2 kg/mm) which might be fine for a light 425 lb 600cc sport bike, but is too light for our 550 lb FJ's.
For a 200 lb solo rider my FJ Penske shock spring rate is 1,000 lbs/inch shock spring. (17.8 kg/mm)
For a FJ with 2 riders and luggage you are looking at 1100-1200 lbs/inch (19.6-21.4 kg/mm)
Remember the old saying, the spring controls the motorcycle, but the shock controls the spring.
If you are planning on the CBR600 shock, also plan on upping the spring rate *and* re valving the shock so you can properly control the heavier spring.
Cheers
Pat
The inside of your tank looks like one I am still have to complete. I got to a point where the sealer was pooled solid down into both side of the tank. I was able to get the majority of it out, but once the cooler weather set in the tank want onto the shelf. The stripper just doesn't work in the cold temps.
Another bad Kreem job (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18811.0)
Randy - RPM
Quote from: racerrad8 on February 07, 2020, 12:39:05 PM
The inside of your tank looks like one I am still have to complete. I got to a point where the sealer was pooled solid down into both side of the tank. I was able to get the majority of it out, but once the cooler weather set in the tank want onto the shelf. The stripper just doesn't work in the cold temps.
Another bad Kreem job (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=18811.0)
Randy - RPM
Thanks Randy,
I have heard from a local friend there is a shop close to me that specializes in removing and redoing these. If the the price is right, they may have a new customer. From what I have read from you and others the task looks time consuming.
Couple updates:
On the way 1988 FZR 1000 front rim.
New rectifier/regulator from RPM
1992 GSXR rear rim and assembly
3rd givi bag from PO
-Recieved new oil and exhaust gaskets. Waiting for a new crush washer to replace it.
-Replaced a few wires connections including the alternator one. I did add the dielectric grease to help keep some of that water out.
-Installed new Iridium spark plugs. I went back to the orginal ones just upgraded. The ones that were in it were one step colder.
-adjusted orginal shock for max stiffness, until I come into some money for an RPM shock.
I have been doing some research on the rear GSXR mod. Everyone has their opinion on the torque arm mounting place. It has been an exhilarating read...
Here are the options I have seen which seem most viable.
1. The contentious foot peg
2. Remove center stand and mount to bracket
3. Weld new bracket to swing arm.
4. I think I saw no torque bar with special bracket?
QUESTION TIME
Most of these write ups were for the previous two generations of the bike. Is there an option which does not work for a 1992?
I'm still running the f4i shock on the 1350. I would really like one of Randy's shocks. But I still can't afford one. The stock spring for the Honda shock is 780lbs. I put a 900lb eibach spring on it. That was what the guys on the Honda forums said was the max for the stock valving. I think I had about $165 into it. And that includes the price of the spring compression tool, and larger spring mount plate (washer looking thing) got it from one of the suspension companies. Racetech?? Been a while.
The rear brakes on my bikes. Use gsxr 600 brackets no torque arm. Just a bar that slides in a channel that I made and had welded to the inside of the swingarm. Slides so you can adjust the chain.
I think the way I did it before switching to 600 brackets. Cutting the stock tab for the torque arm off the top. And welding it to the bottom is the next best way.
Quote from: RevDeal on February 09, 2020, 07:08:10 PM
Couple updates:
On the way 1988 FZR 1000 front rim.
New rectifier/regulator from RPM
1992 GSXR rear rim and assembly
3rd givi bag from PO
-Recieved new oil and exhaust gaskets. Waiting for a new crush washer to replace it.
-Replaced a few wires connections including the alternator one. I did add the dielectric grease to help keep some of that water out.
-Installed new Iridium spark plugs. I went back to the orginal ones just upgraded. The ones that were in it were one step colder.
-adjusted orginal shock for max stiffness, until I come into some money for an RPM shock.
I have been doing some research on the rear GSXR mod. Everyone has their opinion on the torque arm mounting place. It has been an exhilarating read...
Here are the options I have seen which seem most viable.
1. The contentious foot peg
2. Remove center stand and mount to bracket
3. Weld new bracket to swing arm.
4. I think I saw no torque bar with special bracket?
QUESTION TIME
Most of these write ups were for the previous two generations of the bike. Is there an option which does not work for a 1992?
I hesitate to say this, but back when I was broke (financially).................
Not sure if the 1992 model still has the "remote" pre-load adjusting mechanism by chain. If it does, you can get more preload adjustment by removing the adjuster (unhooking the chain), winding the adjuster back to minimum, and then putting the chain back on and re-installing.
I know it's not a "technical" solution, and gives a choppier ride, but if you can't afford a newer shock and want a bit more preload for riding loaded up, then it's a quick/cheap/dirty make-do, until have the cash for a better shock.
Quote from: giantkiller on February 09, 2020, 10:52:08 PM
I'm still running the f4i shock on the 1350. I would really like one of Randy's shocks. But I still can't afford one. The stock spring for the Honda shock is 780lbs. I put a 900lb eibach spring on it. That was what the guys on the Honda forums said was the max for the stock valving. I think I had about $165 into it. And that includes the price of the spring compression tool, and larger spring mount plate (washer looking thing) got it from one of the suspension companies. Racetech?? Been a while.
The rear brakes on my bikes. Use gsxr 600 brackets no torque arm. Just a bar that slides in a channel that I made and had welded to the inside of the swingarm. Slides so you can adjust the chain.
I think the way I did it before switching to 600 brackets. Cutting the stock tab for the torque arm off the top. And welding it to the bottom is the next best way.
Your bracket idea is pretty cool. I know suzuki also made a kit for later years to remove the torque arm.
I like the idea of grinding off the original tab and using it on the bottom. I will probably mount to centerstand and then do that weld job this summer.
I will try to make this my last disappointing post about the bad gas tank, but I drained it tonight to see how bad the flakes were. *sigh* It will have to be redone, or risk having bigger problems down the road. It is already starting to peel. Small flakes and obvious rust penetration.
I had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.
You all already know this if you had to deal with a bad kreem job.
Quote from: RevDeal on February 10, 2020, 09:34:55 PMI had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.
Rev,
Gasoline may help, sure, but ethanol gasoline can rust out a gas tank anyway, regardless of the fill level. I believe the problem is best avoided/ minimized by using non-ethanol gas in our bikes. It does cost more, but it's probably easier to get more money than to buy a like-new FJ gas tank.
Find your local sources for real gasoline here:
https://www.pure-gas.org/ (https://www.pure-gas.org/)
:yes:
.
Quote from: red on February 10, 2020, 10:21:46 PM
Quote from: RevDeal on February 10, 2020, 09:34:55 PMI had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.
Rev,
Gasoline may help, sure, but ethanol gasoline can rust out a gas tank anyway, regardless of the fill level. I believe the problem is best avoided/ minimized by using non-ethanol gas in our bikes. It does cost more, but it's probably easier to get more money than to buy a like-new FJ gas tank.
Find your local sources for real gasoline here:
https://www.pure-gas.org/ (https://www.pure-gas.org/)
:yes:
.
It's funny what you remember from your youth. One of the pearls we were taught at trade school was " it costs no more to run on the top half of the tank than it does to run on the bottom half " This was a comment made in direct relation to tank rust. But, as Red points out, ethanol moves the goal posts in this regard.
Until fitting a fuel cut-off solenoid I would always park the FJ with low fuel to lower the head pressure, thereby reducing the risk of flooding the crankcase. Even so, with almost daily use (and fuel sloshing), the tank remains pristine all these years later.
We are lucky to have good fuel here.
Noel
In the season I run the best name brand premium unleaded I can find.
For whatever reason, around here the bike seems to like Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline the best. My bike honestly seems to run better. And, it's high detergent, which I prefer.
https://www.shell.us/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power-nitro-plus-premium-gasoline.html (https://www.shell.us/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power-nitro-plus-premium-gasoline.html)
If I am going to be parking it for any length of time, I'll fill it with the local alcohol free premium. The issue I have in my part of the country is the alcohol free is the lowest grade in regards to detergents, it does not meet "Top Tier", but it is still "OK" as it has to meet some specifications.
I can tell a performance difference though.
Last week a friend and I were discussing fuels and he made a good point. A lot of times customers would come to his shop with cold drive/run issues, it was related to the fuel. Most of the times is was a customer running Premium in a car that called for Regular, and just switch back to regular not only cure the run issues, they gained more miles per gallon. The moral of his story was to use the fuel the manufacturer recommends.
My 1988 FZR 1000 rim and rotors came today. The paint needs to be stripped off and rotors look worn. Was hoping to not need new rotors.
After a careful inspection of my blue dot calipers it looks to me like they will need to be rebuilt as I see some gaskets breaking out of the pistons. Seeing $$$ today, and not in a profitable way.
Just eyeballing your picture, those FZR rotors look too big.
Good news is that the '89-95 FJ (non abs) rotors bolt up to that FZR rim.
EBay has some good prices on FJ rotors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-R-Front-Brake-Discs-Rotors-For-Yamaha-FJ1200-FZR600-FAZER-TDM850-TRX-850-95-00-/263692064203 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-R-Front-Brake-Discs-Rotors-For-Yamaha-FJ1200-FZR600-FAZER-TDM850-TRX-850-95-00-/263692064203)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 12, 2020, 10:55:56 AM
Just eyeballing your picture, those FZR rotors look too big.
You know I didn't even think about that. You're probably right. They are what came with the rim.
Yea, they look like 320mm dia. rotors which are too big...you want 300mm dia. rotors...
...just get new rotors...front brakes are kinda important on our FJ's...
Quote from: RevDeal on February 12, 2020, 10:41:57 AMAfter a careful inspection of my blue dot calipers it looks to me like they will need to be rebuilt as I see some gaskets breaking out of the pistons. Seeing $$$ today, and not in a profitable way.
Of course they need rebuilding. I would NEVER install used calipers without first rebuilding them. Besides, what does a seal kit cost... 20 bucks? 30? Chump change. Brakes are kinda important, ya know...
And don't forget the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid (assuming you don't have ABS.)
Bill
Quote from: RevDeal on February 12, 2020, 10:37:38 AMMy 1988 FZR 1000 rim and rotors came today. The paint needs to be stripped off and rotors look worn. Was hoping to not need new rotors.
Rev,
Looking at the grease streaks around the hub, I'm guessing that the grease seal has failed, and that could mean that the wheel bearing is shot (too much play). It might be wise to clean and check both of the wheel bearings, while you are there.
.
I thought that was SOP.
When buying a used rim, always replace the wheel bearings....always.
Thanks guys,
I know I should have just planned on rebuilding the calipers. Sometimes you get lucky with used things and they aren't that bad, but what should I have expected for blue dots at $35 dollars for the pair. I do have an ABS model, going to run it without the abs system, but it will be some time before I pull the whole pump and change to an FJR master.
I think I may wait to change out the front till later this summer given that I need to strip this rim and most likely redo the wheel bearings.
If anyone has a good lead on these parts let me know.
-caliper rebuilds (2)
- wheel bearings
- rotors
I do appreciate all the warnings and flags. Once you learn it the first time, you know what to do the next time.
I might know a guy who has that stuff in stock.
Oh yeah I for sure know a guy.
Blue Spot Caliper Rebuild Kit (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BlueSpotCaliperORings)
Front Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit 84+ (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFWBK) Also fit 87-88 FZR wheel
EBC X Brake Rotor (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=brakes%3AEbcXRotor)
:drinks:
Quote from: RPM - Robert on February 12, 2020, 01:25:27 PM
I might know a guy who has that stuff in stock.
Oh yeah I for sure know a guy.
Blue Spot Caliper Rebuild Kit (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BlueSpotCaliperORings)
Front Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit 84+ (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFWBK) Also fit 87-88 FZR wheel
EBC X Brake Rotor (https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=brakes%3AEbcXRotor)
:drinks:
When I re-did my front end, I wanted EBC discs Randy, but the price was prohibitive for me (the UK price seems slightly higher than the US price). I got a set from an eBay supplier used by some of my FJ Racer friends over here. I ended up paying less than $170 for the pair (admittedly for a EXUP RU FZR 1000) - 18 months on, they've been great in road use and none of the race bikes has had any braking issues.
Jacob - I like the wavy/petal pattern discs better than the standard style :yes: - but I can understand why people go for the standard style EBC types too.
Here's a picture of how my FJ front wheel/suspension with the FZR USD forks, wheel and early R1 blue spot calipers, looks :good2:
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/11/6213_10_08_19_2_16_53.jpeg)
Quote from: Millietant on February 12, 2020, 06:26:47 PM
When I re-did my front end, I wanted EBC discs ....but the price was prohibitive.... I got a set from an eBay supplier used by some of my FJ Racer friends over here. I ended up paying less than $170 for the pair (admittedly for a EXUP RU FZR 1000) - 18 months on, they've been great in road use and none of the race bikes has had any braking issues.
Dean, those rotors are in much wider use than you might imagine, both with forum members and the general motorcycling community. It appears they can't be killed even under the harshest use. The Hyabusa track day guys swear by them them. I was one of the first to use them on the forum and mine have done a lot of hard miles since. I've never measured them but I figure when they get too thin they'll let me know.
This is after a couple of consecutive max rate stops from 250kph to full stop (EBC HH pads). This actually left me "greyed out' for a second or two after coming to rest.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7338/12144183003_ef8d4200ab_c.jpg)
You can use and abuse these rotors up hill and down dale, even on the track, and they stay good.
The review below was posted 5 years ago but we have gained a lot of new members since then so it's probably worth posting again.
.....works in a company that performs tests to weldings and metal fatigue in big structures (bridges, railways...) here in Portugal and Spain.
I ordered one of this Chinese rotors and gave it to him for him to test.
I posted the results on the Portuguese Hayabusa Forum
Forum Hayabusa Portugal :: Verificar tpico - Discos em flor opces e preos.
Ok, it is written in Portuguese but I'll can sum it up by saying that the "Arashi" rotor passed every single test. After heating, cooling, twisting, pressing and chemical abuse all came out fine.
One test that is particularly interesting is rotating the rotor in a machine that reads changes in a magnetic field crossed by the rotor thus enabling to "see" into the rotor to check the uniformity of the metal alloy.
By the way, the metal the rotor is made of it's called Martensitic Steel (AISI 420), just like the Galfers, Braking, EBC, etc. .
I've surfed the web and found everything: warped Arashi rotors, warped OEM rotors, warped Galfers, cracked Brembos, you name it. I guess these Arashi rotors are as good (or as bad...) as the others.
On a final note, I just wanted to say that you rarely get "what you pay for". Life does not work like that at all. Sure, the rule of thumb is that the more expensive something is, the better.
But for this type of simple, mass produced items, the final price little has to do with production costs. It has more to do with desire of ownership and pose value. It doesn't matter if a rotor- any brand -costs $1 do make if people are willing to pay $1000 for it.
I'm sure that if I erased the Galfer letters from a rotor set and engraved Chinese rotors with the Brembo logo and gave them to some one in this forum do drive-test them in his bike he would rave about the "Brembos" and trash the "Chinese".
Report to moderator 210.49.213.21
NoelNoel
Well I have now ordered the wavy discs and a new jt 40t rear sprocket for the gsxr rear.
Still haven't ordered any new rubber. I find there are so many reviews on things it is driving me nuts. I need something that will be a mix between over 3000k mileage and give me some performance benefits while being able to hold two up and gear. Is the GT really worth it over the standard? Looking for opinions.
PR4 GT
PR5 GT
Angel GT
I have been running the Michelin Power RS on my bike now and am on my third set. I am getting around 5k out of them and they are great. I have several customers on them as well and nothing but great feedback.
https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/motorbike/tyres/michelin-power-rs
Check them out.
Quote from: RevDeal on February 17, 2020, 10:42:33 AM
Well I have now ordered the wavy discs and a new jt 40t rear sprocket for the gsxr rear.
Still haven't ordered any new rubber. I find there are so many reviews on things it is driving me nuts. I need something that will be a mix between over 3000k mileage and give me some performance benefits while being able to hold two up and gear. Is the GT really worth it over the standard? Looking for opinions.
PR4 GT
PR5 GT
Angel GT
I wouldn't sweat the decision too hard - it seems tire technology is like electronics - even today's touring focused tires will outperform performance focused tires from say 10 years ago — much less the top of the line tires that were available when the FJ was in production!
Quote from: fj1289 on February 18, 2020, 07:29:57 AM
I wouldn't sweat the decision too hard - it seems tire technology is like electronics - even today's touring focused tires will outperform performance focused tires from say 10 years ago — much less the top of the line tires that were available when the FJ was in production!
So true. I'm not a good enough rider to be able to tell a lot of difference between certain tires. I do know I prefer bias over radial on the stock FJ wheels.
I've been running Avons for a while, Spirits, mainly because the name reminded me of a band from the 1960's....
Twelve Dreams of Dr. Sardonicus comes to mind - Might just be the mornings background music for backgammon.
Today began my work on the gas tank to remove the bad Kreem job. I am going to the route of using acetone and some drywall screws to agitate the walls. Following this I will try electrolysis to remove any residual rust. I am not sure at this point if I am going to recoat it. I am leaning toward not recoating it and dealing with surface rust with electrolysis as needed.
Let me tell you what I have learned so far. I did not want the fuel sensor sitting in acetone or the fuel petcock so I removed both of those. I then made plastic covers to go over the holes with rubber from a inner tube to keep the chemicals inside. It DID NOT WORK.
THIS IS WHAT DID WORK. I made a metal plate for the fuel sensor hole with the rubber and then I reused the fuel petcock minus the screen filter with rubber inter tube underneath. So that did the trick. All is sealed and can be shaken and agitated with out issue.picture below.
I do have a question for anyone who had advice. I want to run the exhaust side Givi bag, but I am hindered by the high S22 exhaust. I am thinking about bending using high heat, but was curious if there were other options or suggestions before I give this a go. I figured I would just make a new hanging bracket or an extension for the existing one I found it's new resting place.
Thanks guys,
Jacob
PS. Cant wait to get this tank done and install it.
Gsxr rear wheel conversion coming later this summer and fzr front end conversion as well. Need to rebuild calipers and install new bearings. Lots to do! The fun never ends.
Keep a eye on that inner tube gasket....
Quote from: RevDeal on March 08, 2020, 07:04:31 PMToday began my work on the gas tank to remove the bad Kreem job. I am going to the route of using acetone and some drywall screws to agitate the walls.
RevDeal,
It would be easier to remove all of the metal later if was a fair length of metal dogchain, instead of screws.
It helps when agitating the tank if you support one end of the tank by a rope to the ceiling (rafters), so you will only need to move half of the weight. Then change the rope to the other end of the tank, and agitate again.
Seriously ventilate the work area during the work, and store the tank outside under cover, when not working on it.
:yes:
.
So here is my dilemma. I want to run this exhaust and the givi hard bag on this side. But the upper end of the slip-on hits the bag by a few inches. My thought is to bend the pipe using high heat at one of the points.
1. Red point would drop the whole exhaust, but would not change angle.
2. Green point would be a new bend
3. Blue point has a bend, but it is a corrective bend inward toward the bike. I am not sure if bending it down would be too much of a stress on the springs which would be off.
Any ideas? Cross posted on fb
I have no idea if this will work. These are just my thoughts.
Jacob
Will you be able to also lift the pannier frames slightly ?
Quote from: Millietant on March 17, 2020, 07:06:04 AM
Will you be able to also lift the pannier frames slightly ?
After looking up the word "pannier," I have an answer. Haha
I have looked a few times to see if there is a way to raise it, so far my instincts tell me no. There are multiple points where this wingrack bolts to a certain place on the bike. So I don't see it as being adjustable.
Have been doing more work on the has tank. Whatever stuff is in there it is extremely resilient to chemicals.
Jacob
Well the bike has been going back together just fine. Putting new fuel lines on and new fuel filter. The only thing holding me back (other than the government quarantine)from riding is the dang gas tank. Whatever liner is in there acetone doesn't really touch it. Power washer can sometimes break it up. Even tried some acid and nothing. About 60% removed at this time. And I am about to throw in the towel and cut the bottom out or find a used one without a liner.
Quote from: RevDeal on March 20, 2020, 03:03:25 PMWell the bike has been going back together just fine. Putting new fuel lines on and new fuel filter. The only thing holding me back (other than the government quarantine)from riding is the dang gas tank. Whatever liner is in there acetone doesn't really touch it. Power washer can sometimes break it up. Even tried some acid and nothing. About 60% removed at this time. And I am about to throw in the towel and cut the bottom out or find a used one without a liner.
RevDeal,
Not sure about the cost of another tank, but I'd try some other solvents, first. Work outdoors, as some of them are
really not healthy for living things, and some will go right through skin
or gloves. Even the fumes can be bad. Try each one on a small patch. Soak a different gauze pad (or three) with each candidate solvent. Don't touch; apply chemical to the pads with a cheap paint brush, and apply and remove the pads using tools. I'd suggest Methyl Ethel Ketone (MEK), Carbon Tetrafloride, paint strippers, or lacquer thinner, for starters. Again, some of these are really bad stuff. The right (experienced) paint or hardware-type folks may have more suggestions for you.
If you have some sealer chips loose in hand, try dissolving them in various solvents in jars, as well.
.
Quote from: red on March 20, 2020, 05:04:14 PM
Quote from: RevDeal on March 20, 2020, 03:03:25 PMWell the bike has been going back together just fine. Putting new fuel lines on and new fuel filter. The only thing holding me back (other than the government quarantine)from riding is the dang gas tank. Whatever liner is in there acetone doesn't really touch it. Power washer can sometimes break it up. Even tried some acid and nothing. About 60% removed at this time. And I am about to throw in the towel and cut the bottom out or find a used one without a liner.
RevDeal,
Not sure about the cost of another tank, but I'd try some other solvents, first. Work outdoors, as some of them are really not healthy for living things, and some will go right through skin or gloves. Even the fumes can be bad. Try each one on a small patch. Soak a different gauze pad (or three) with each candidate solvent. Don't touch; apply chemical to the pads with a cheap paint brush, and apply and remove the pads using tools. I'd suggest Methyl Ethel Ketone (MEK), Carbon Tetrafloride, paint strippers, or lacquer thinner, for starters. Again, some of these are really bad stuff. The right (experienced) paint or hardware-type folks may have more suggestions for you.
If you have some sealer chips loose in hand, try dissolving them in various solvents in jars, as well.
.
Red not a bad idea.
I have $30 and 12 days so far. Used tanks are about $200. And new $400.
MEK was my thought also. Do you know what brand of liner was used? If so you can look it up online and try and find it's base ingredients. Maybe even from an MSDS/SDS. Then you can try and match a solvent or such that matches the main ingredient, which might help dissolve it. Just using bathtub gin logic here. If all else fails.
Would applying heat have any effect? Like sticking a heat gun into the top of the tank and seeing if it breaks the bond?
I have been reading your story, I have a beautiful 1992 gas tank from my FJ with gas cap key. I bought this non ABS 1992 FJ in 1998. In early 2015 hit by texting driver at 8 MPH in San Diego, CA. pushed over and cracked the engine case, insurance totaled the bike and I bought it back from them. Found a 1992 FJ1200 ABS model in New Hampshire with very low miles on it. Bought it, flew back east and rode it across country on Route 6 back to Los Angeles in October 2015. I changed all nine (?) brake/clutch lines with Galfer, and added blue dot calipers. RPM did the head & valves as I had a light dusting of dirt on my right side pant leg when I got back to LA. Randy surmised that because of the low miles it must have been a commuter bike and heat was the culprit on the green o'ring type seal between head and block. So I have a few spare parts from my old FJ and the gas tank is one of them.
If interested - kevinsocalnorton@gmail.com
Quote from: 1200turning on March 23, 2020, 06:13:05 PM
I have been reading your story, I have a beautiful 1992 gas tank from my FJ with gas cap key. I bought this non ABS 1992 FJ in 1998. In early 2015 hit by texting driver at 8 MPH in San Diego, CA. pushed over and cracked the engine case, insurance totaled the bike and I bought it back from them. Found a 1992 FJ1200 ABS model in New Hampshire with very low miles on it. Bought it, flew back east and rode it across country on Route 6 back to Los Angeles in October 2015. I changed all nine (?) brake/clutch lines with Galfer, and added blue dot calipers. RPM did the head & valves as I had a light dusting of dirt on my right side pant leg when I got back to LA. Randy surmised that because of the low miles it must have been a commuter bike and heat was the culprit on the green o'ring type seal between head and block. So I have a few spare parts from my old FJ and the gas tank is one of them.
If interested - kevinsocalnorton@gmail.com
Kevin! Thanks for reaching out. I sent an email over to you. Let's chat. I have a feeling I will be converting to non abs soon. Have both the wheels to do it, as you have probably read already. So we will hopefully be in touch!
Jacob
5 days have gone by with the new solvent trials of MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), not the substitute, but the actual stuff. Based on my two day trial with a piece of the liner in a cup, I found that it doesn't really dissolve it, but softens it up quite a bit. I threw a bit of chain in there to try and rip it from the walls.
I will be moving on to electrolysis in the next day or two. Some of you have done this and I wanted input for what to do when you have completed the process. I've read there is a possibility to have flash rust, which I want to avoid! When I drain the solution from the tank, what is the best next step? I have picked up Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and fresh gas. Can I do an immediate rinse of gas an MMO, then fill the tank? Should I do an acetone rinse to displace the water? Then gas and mmo? Looking for some suggestions. Thanks!
Quote from: RevDeal on April 01, 2020, 01:50:15 PMWhen I drain the solution from the tank, what is the best next step? I have picked up Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and fresh gas. Can I do an immediate rinse of gas an MMO, then fill the tank? Should I do an acetone rinse to displace the water? Then gas and mmo? Looking for some suggestions. Thanks!
RevDeal,
If I wanted to wash Marvel Mystery Oil off any piece of metal, I would first try gasoline as a cleaner. Try it. One test is worth a hundred expert opinions.
.
Red, he is first wanting to rinse out the MEK. The MMO is to coat the inside to prevent flash rust. So no need to rinse the MMO.
I would test mixing a very small amount of MMO and MEK. Do they react? Do they mix? If they don't react and they mix, then I would use some MMO to dilute the MEK.
I should clarify:
I am going to be rinsing the MEK out with water. Next, I will be adding the electrolysis solution (soda ash and water) and doing electrolysis for a bit to remove some of the rust that was underneath the tank liner. After, that process has concluded I will drain the tank of the soda ash and water. I want to prevent the flash rust after emptying that solution out, assuming there will be some.
Sorry for the confusion.
Don't worry about flash rust if you are filling your tank wit Sodium Carbonate and moving directly to electrolysis.
The time to worry about flash rust is after electrolysis.
Don't stop electrolysis until you have your tank liner components lined up ready to go.
Clean, etch, and seal. Follow the instructions perfectly. Do not use Kreem
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 01, 2020, 07:41:38 PM
Don't worry about flash rust if you are filling your tank wit Sodium Carbonate and moving directly to electrolysis.
The time to worry about flash rust is after electrolysis.
Don't stop electrolysis until you have your tank liner components lined up ready to go.
Clean, etch, and seal. Follow the instructions perfectly. Do not use Kreem
Pat I really dont want to reline the tank with anything. The inside of the tank is in decent condition, doesnt seem to need to be lined.
Jacob
Isn't there a "rust neutralizer" you can apply after electrolysis?
Maybe use this if the tank has to sit clean and empty before you finish it. Rust-Block (https://evapo-rust.com/rust-block/)
Well gentlemen,
I have succeeded with finishing the tank. The process after the electrolysis had to be highly thought out and well planned in order to accomplish things before the flash rust came. I did do an acetone rinse after rinsing the rusty water out a couple times. This helped with getting the inside to dry quickly. After that, it was a couple rinses with a mixture of Marvel Mystery oil and gasoline to ensure all water and acetone were out. Then a prompt fill to the top with gas.
I did have one negative surprise, my vent tube in the tank was clogged. So gas had got under my filler cap and ate all the paint away in the evening. So after an hour of using a mental coat hanger and forced air, I managed to unclog it, which greatly helped. Thanks for all your advice.
So awhile ago I posted on the FJ facebook page:
So tonight I looked up PA indicator codes and realized the RPM integrated turn signal brake light was not legal in my state. So I had to reinstall my turn signals for my inspection. I disconnected the turn LED turn signals from the integrated kit and just plug back in the old normal ones. All works fine. When I apply my brakes and use the turn signal the rear LED brake light blinks [Dims] slightly. Is this normal? It doesn't blink unless the brakes are applied.
I decided to just try a double bullet connection on the factory wiring and plug both the Givi lights and the integrated RPM rear brake light with turn signals into it. I have not had any issues. Both turn signals from the brake light and the outers work fine now. Just in case anyone was ever in the same pickle.
Jacob
Quote from: RevDeal on April 07, 2020, 11:23:58 AM
So awhile ago I posted on the FJ facebook page:
So tonight I looked up PA indicator codes and realized the RPM integrated turn signal brake light was not legal in my state. So I had to reinstall my turn signals for my inspection. I disconnected the turn LED turn signals from the integrated kit and just plug back in the old normal ones. All works fine. When I apply my brakes and use the turn signal the rear LED brake light blinks [Dims] slightly. Is this normal? It doesn't blink unless the brakes are applied.
I decided to just try a double bullet connection on the factory wiring and plug both the Givi lights and the integrated RPM rear brake light with turn signals into it. I have not had any issues. Both turn signals from the brake light and the outers work fine now. Just in case anyone was ever in the same pickle.
Jacob
With the number of left-turning bikes rear ended by cars/trucks I'm really surprised that anyone uses turn signal intergrated into the rear lights. Mind you, I also don't understand why car makers in the USA still use the red brake light as a turn signal. Surely Red means danger/stop and it's better not to confuse things by using it as turn indicator.
Over here all of those integrated turn signals on bikes are illegal - the actual indicator has be over a set minimum distance from the centre line of the bike, and it must be an amber colour, to make sure that intention to turn is clearly signalled to other road users. And if you use one anyway (changing it after the annual safety check/test) you'll likely get prosecuted - we even have police that hang out around bike gatherings and issue fines for having the wrong font, size, letter spacing and plate size on vehicle number plates/registration plates, or for having loud exhausts !
Personally, I really don't understand this fascination of putting turn signal lights on the centre of the bike....but maybe that comes from having a friend put in a wheelchair and his wife killed, when they got rear-ended by a car.
Saparately though Rev, can do you put a link for the FB FJ page (if that's OK) - I've trawled and can't find anything other than a U.K. FJ group and an Aussie FJ group.
Quote from: Millietant on April 13, 2020, 04:30:14 AM
Personally, I really don't understand this fascination of putting turn signal lights on the centre of the bike....but maybe that comes from having a friend put in a wheelchair and his wife killed, when they got rear-ended by a car.
I agree entirely, the standard indicators do nothing for the lines of the FJ, but safety first. I like the fact they're big and stick out and I have LED globes in them. We also have minimum separation distance and colour requirements here but they don't seem to be policed and we don't have annual inspections.
I also have a very bright LED brake light globe and have fitted a modulator that gives a rapid flash for a few seconds when applied then settles into a solid light. The duration and rate of the flash are independently adjustable. It's very attention grabbing. If I'm the only, or first vehicle at an intersection, I sometimes release and reapply the brake to start the flashing sequence again if a car is approaching from behind. I'm also more comfortable being able to see behind while stopped since ditching my standard mirrors in favour of units that show something other than my elbows. There are a number of things I do to minimise the risk of being rear ended.
Noel
Quote from: Millietant on April 13, 2020, 04:32:53 AM
Saparately though Rev, can do you put a link for the FB FJ page (if that's OK) - I've trawled and can't find anything other than a U.K. FJ group and an Aussie FJ group.
I posted it in the general discussion, but here it is.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/?ref=share (https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/?ref=share)
Quote from: ribbert on April 13, 2020, 06:47:42 AM
Quote from: Millietant on April 13, 2020, 04:30:14 AM
Personally, I really don't understand this fascination of putting turn signal lights on the centre of the bike....but maybe that comes from having a friend put in a wheelchair and his wife killed, when they got rear-ended by a car.
I agree entirely, the standard indicators do nothing for the lines of the FJ, but safety first. I like the fact they're big and stick out and I have LED globes in them. We also have minimum separation distance and colour requirements here but they don't seem to be policed and we don't have annual inspections.
I also have a very bright LED brake light globe and have fitted a modulator that gives a rapid flash for a few seconds when applied then settles into a solid light. The duration and rate of the flash are independently adjustable. It's very attention grabbing. If I'm the only, or first vehicle at an intersection, I sometimes release and reapply the brake to start the flashing sequence again if a car is approaching from behind. I'm also more comfortable being able to see behind while stopped since ditching my standard mirrors in favour of units that show something other than my elbows. There are a number of things I do to minimise the risk of being rear ended.
Noel
You guys aren't wrong. The logic for this is sound. There isn't really an argument against safety or visibility other than that some choose to ignore it for the image of the bike. I was willing to do that until it was made known that it was illegal.
The RPM break and turn signal is pretty nice, and it does everything it is suppose to do, but you do loose that extra visibility that the separated turn signal provides.
The mirrors are something to change for sure. Will probably do that soonish.
Jacob
Quote from: RevDeal on April 13, 2020, 08:56:41 AM
Quote from: Millietant on April 13, 2020, 04:32:53 AM
Saparately though Rev, can do you put a link for the FB FJ page (if that's OK) - I've trawled and can't find anything other than a U.K. FJ group and an Aussie FJ group.
I posted it in the general discussion, but here it is.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/?ref=share (https://www.facebook.com/groups/2331723123/?ref=share)
Thank you, I've sent a joining request :good2:
I dont have an issue with visibility from my mirrors, but one glass has started to vibrate a bit, audibly, at very low revs, so I'm thinking about the best replacement option.
Seems Honda mirrors, from a CBR300 or CBR600 might be the favourites ?
Ended up not having to bend the exhaust pipe. There was enough play in it to slightly bed it down and welded an additional piece onto the bracket. I went to an exhaust shop and they were worried that the exhaust metal may be so thin that bending it would ruin it.
So here it is without having been bent. And if I ever want to go back. Grind the weld and it's all good.
Side note: It felt so good to do a short trip today. 65miles of enjoyment
Just out of curiosity, why did you not just make up a bracket with hole centres you've ended up with - or does the bracket not unbolt from the silencer ?
That is a good idea to do in the future. I had not even thought about just pushing down and remounting. So I learned something at the shop and was glad I hadn't attempted a bend.
Jacob
Quote from: RevDeal on February 06, 2020, 03:05:42 PM
Is the f4i a viable rear spring option for a 1992 fj1200?
"No.
https://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/CBR600F4i/2001-06 (https://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/CBR600F4i/2001-06)
A search thru the Race Tech web site for the specs on the 2001-2006 Honda CBR600 F4i shows the oem rear shock spring to be 795 lbs/in (14.2 kg/mm) which might be fine for a light 425 lb 600cc sport bike, but is too light for our 550 lb FJ's.
For a 200 lb solo rider my FJ Penske shock spring rate is 1,000 lbs/inch shock spring. (17.8 kg/mm)
For a FJ with 2 riders and luggage you are looking at 1100-1200 lbs/inch (19.6-21.4 kg/mm)
Remember the old saying, the spring controls the motorcycle, but the shock controls the spring.
If you are planning on the CBR600 shock, also plan on upping the spring rate *and* re valving the shock so you can properly control the heavier spring.
Cheers
Pat"I am rekindling this thread to find out if the f4i shock will physically fit a 1992 FJ1200D? I can not find a definitive answer or I have overlooked it.
I understand Pat's response to the original question, however, it is my understanding that the spring rate can be increased up to 900lbs which would take care of my needs.
Thanks in advance.
Marc
I can't answer the shock fitment question but you will be ok with a 900lb spring....for solo riding.
I think the clear answer is that "with some machining of parts and modifications" it will fit.
Personally with a a second hand shock of unknown life and condition, with a lass than ideal spring and which needs machining and messing about, I wouldn't bother - I'd go with a Hagon, set from the factory for your weight and riding, for around $500 delivered to your doorstep in the USA, in around a week, complete with a manufacturer's warranty - or a YSS for around $600.
By the time you add up all your spending, messing and risk with a second hand, near 20 year old CBR600 shock, it seems like money well spent buying a new one made by specialists for your bike and you. Just my two cents worth ! :sarcastic:
Yep, listen to Dean :good:
Thank you Gentlemen for the information and advice which is well taken.
Marc