My Initial Tear Down and Surprises lol 1992 Fj1200

[RevDeal]

Maybe this will help with the GSXR rear wheel swap...
I have a pile of GSXR wheels and a 92 FJ12 with the rear wheel off so I did some measuring, then made the attached sketch.  It's very basic and needs more info but I think the dimensions are pretty close.

Hope it helps,
Bill

Thanks for the diagram! I have complete 92 setup shipping hopefully this week.

[RevDeal]

I ditched the ABS on my '93 since it never worked. 

I replaced the brakelines with a conventional setup using VENHILL lines.

All the ABS electronics are easily removed.  They plug into the main harness and have a handful of connections.  The ABS boxes are all located in the tail end of the rear cowl.

The hardest part was getting the ABS pump out.  I believe I had to remove the rear shock and disconnect most of the linkages to make room to drop the pump out the bottom. 

I am not sure if mine is working or not. I haven't had it out long enough to know. Pretty much just brought it back to the garage and started getting into it. I am thinking at this point that will be my goal in a year. It's just all about saving that cash to do it the right way. Did you do a custom order I assume for the VENHILL lines? I think I ran across your post talking about their advantages.

Right now, I have the 92 GSXR Rear assembly all coming and the 2000 R1 Blue Dot Calipers. So I will be looking toward finding a front Non-abs rim, rotors and lines. It will come with time.

[RevDeal]

....If I am not mistaken I can always just swap it out for a non abs model front as well?

Not looking to do forks right now, so just a bolt on would be ideal.

Yes, you could replace your front ABS rim (and rotors) with a FJ non abs rim (and rotors) but why?
There will be no advantage...both 17" rims are 3" wide. You can not use your ABS rotors on your non ABS rim.
Instead, save your money and bide your time....keep an eye out for a 3.5" wide rim.
'87/88 FZR750 or FZR1000 are plug and play, but hard to find.

The '89+ FZR rim will work with special wheel bearings (needed for the FJ 15mm dia. axle) or instead of the special bearings you keep the oem FZR bearings and drill out the FJ fork legs so you can fit the larger 17mm dia. '89+ FZR front axle.
Personally, I like the idea of a using a stronger front 17mm axle on our heavy bikes.

IOW wait on your ABS front rim for a wider 3 1/2" rim.

PAT!! Thank you, you're answering all these greenhorn questions with clarity and it really helps. I hate wasting money on things which won't work, plus I have limited access to helpful motorcycle guys in my area. I will probably set out to find the impossible 1987/88 FZR, just to keep the front as stock as possible, if for some strange reason I need to convert it back. For these ABS models do I need to do both front and rear conversions at the same time? Or can I pull the fuses to disable the abs system and convert the back while I hunt for the front rim? Just thinking about ordering new rubber.

[Pat Conlon]

We are happy to help you...that's what we do here....

Pull the ABS fuses now. Get new SS brake lines now. Do the GSXR back rim now.
Go ahead and order your 180/55-17 and 120/70-17 rubber now.

You can wait until you get the 3.5" front rim you want. That will be the frosting on the cake. Remember you will also need brake rotors, your ABS brake rotors will not swap over to your new front rim.


When you remove the ABS brake lines, you will be surprised how long they are, and how much shorter the conventional FJ lines are by comparison.
Shorter brake lines are good, SS brake lines are good, 28 year old oem rubber lines, not so much.
When you do remove those old lines, be careful with that nasty ass brake fluid....keep a squirt bottle of water and shop towels close at hand.

[FJ_Hooligan]

I already had SS lines on my '93 with the ABS.  Back in the Yahoo days, there was a member that built brake line kits for ABS models (Chris Rawson?)

When I removed the pump all I needed for the front was a short line from the master cylinder to the splitter.

For the rear, I was able to route the line from the pump to the rear caliper over to the rear master.

Measure your old lines using the VENHILL guidelines and get a custom set.  You can keep the splitter or run 2 separate lines to the calipers.

[RevDeal]

Here is a good update: Blue dots have arrived!

Bad update:
Gas tank. The seal looks mostly infected but has bubbles all over. The areas that have been exposed above seem to have some rust. Anyone have solutions and estimated cost? Or should I let it ride?

[RevDeal]

Gas tank

[RevDeal]

You all were right! This should be on every new owner's to do first list. Was this battery even charging?!!! What in the corrosion!?

[RevDeal]

Is the f4i a viable rear spring option for a 1992 fj1200?

[Pat Conlon]

No.
https://www.racetech.com/ProductSearch/12/Honda/CBR600F4i/2001-06
A search thru the Race Tech web site for the specs on the 2001-2006 Honda CBR600 F4i shows the oem rear shock spring to be 795 lbs/in (14.2 kg/mm) which might be fine for a light 425 lb 600cc sport bike, but is too light for our 550 lb FJ's.

For a 200 lb solo rider my FJ Penske shock spring rate is 1,000 lbs/inch shock spring. (17.8 kg/mm)
For a FJ with 2 riders and luggage you are looking at 1100-1200 lbs/inch (19.6-21.4 kg/mm)

Remember the old saying, the spring controls the motorcycle, but the shock controls the spring.
If you are planning on the CBR600 shock, also plan on upping the spring rate *and* re valving the shock so you can properly control the heavier spring.

Cheers
Pat

[racerrad8]

The inside of your tank looks like one I am still have to complete. I got to a point where the sealer was pooled solid down into both side of the tank. I was able to get the majority of it out, but once the cooler weather set in the tank want onto the shelf. The stripper just doesn't work in the cold temps.

Another bad Kreem job

Randy - RPM

[RevDeal]

The inside of your tank looks like one I am still have to complete. I got to a point where the sealer was pooled solid down into both side of the tank. I was able to get the majority of it out, but once the cooler weather set in the tank want onto the shelf. The stripper just doesn't work in the cold temps.

Another bad Kreem job

Randy - RPM

Thanks Randy,
I have heard from a local friend there is a shop close to me that specializes in removing and redoing these. If the the price is right, they may have a new customer. From what I have read from you and others the task looks time consuming.

[RevDeal]

Couple updates:
On the way 1988 FZR 1000 front rim.
New rectifier/regulator from RPM
1992 GSXR rear rim and assembly
3rd givi bag from PO

-Recieved new oil and exhaust gaskets. Waiting for a new crush washer to replace it.
-Replaced a few wires connections including the alternator one. I did add the dielectric grease to help keep some of that water out.
-Installed new Iridium spark plugs. I went back to the orginal ones just upgraded. The ones that were in it were one step colder.
-adjusted orginal shock for max stiffness, until I come into some money for an RPM shock.


I have been doing some research on the rear GSXR mod. Everyone has their opinion on the torque arm mounting place. It has been an exhilarating read...
Here are the options I have seen which seem most viable.
1. The contentious foot peg
2. Remove center stand and mount to bracket
3. Weld new bracket to swing arm.
4. I think I saw no torque bar with special bracket?

QUESTION TIME
Most of these write ups were for the previous two generations of the bike. Is there an option which does not work for a 1992?

[giantkiller]

I'm still running the f4i shock on the 1350. I would really like one of Randy's shocks. But I still can't afford one. The stock spring for the Honda shock is 780lbs. I put a 900lb eibach spring on it. That was what the guys on the Honda forums said was the max for the stock valving. I think I had about $165 into it. And that includes the price of the spring compression tool, and larger spring mount plate (washer looking thing) got it from one of the suspension companies. Racetech?? Been a while.

The rear brakes on my bikes. Use gsxr 600 brackets no torque arm. Just a bar that slides in a channel that I made and had welded to the inside of the swingarm. Slides so you can adjust the chain.

I think the way I did it before switching to 600 brackets. Cutting the stock tab for the torque arm off the top. And welding it to the bottom is the next best way.

[Millietant]

Couple updates:
On the way 1988 FZR 1000 front rim.
New rectifier/regulator from RPM
1992 GSXR rear rim and assembly
3rd givi bag from PO

-Recieved new oil and exhaust gaskets. Waiting for a new crush washer to replace it.
-Replaced a few wires connections including the alternator one. I did add the dielectric grease to help keep some of that water out.
-Installed new Iridium spark plugs. I went back to the orginal ones just upgraded. The ones that were in it were one step colder.
-adjusted orginal shock for max stiffness, until I come into some money for an RPM shock.


I have been doing some research on the rear GSXR mod. Everyone has their opinion on the torque arm mounting place. It has been an exhilarating read...
Here are the options I have seen which seem most viable.
1. The contentious foot peg
2. Remove center stand and mount to bracket
3. Weld new bracket to swing arm.
4. I think I saw no torque bar with special bracket?

QUESTION TIME
Most of these write ups were for the previous two generations of the bike. Is there an option which does not work for a 1992?

I hesitate to say this, but back when I was broke (financially).................

Not sure if the 1992 model still has the "remote" pre-load adjusting mechanism by chain. If it does, you can get more preload adjustment by removing the adjuster (unhooking the chain), winding the adjuster back to minimum, and then putting the chain back on and re-installing.

I know it's not a "technical" solution, and gives a choppier ride, but if you can't afford a newer shock and want a bit more preload for riding loaded up, then it's a quick/cheap/dirty make-do, until have the cash for a better shock.