My Initial Tear Down and Surprises lol 1992 Fj1200

[RevDeal]

I'm still running the f4i shock on the 1350. I would really like one of Randy's shocks. But I still can't afford one. The stock spring for the Honda shock is 780lbs. I put a 900lb eibach spring on it. That was what the guys on the Honda forums said was the max for the stock valving. I think I had about $165 into it. And that includes the price of the spring compression tool, and larger spring mount plate (washer looking thing) got it from one of the suspension companies. Racetech?? Been a while.

The rear brakes on my bikes. Use gsxr 600 brackets no torque arm. Just a bar that slides in a channel that I made and had welded to the inside of the swingarm. Slides so you can adjust the chain.

I think the way I did it before switching to 600 brackets. Cutting the stock tab for the torque arm off the top. And welding it to the bottom is the next best way.

Your bracket idea is pretty cool. I know suzuki also made a kit for later years to remove the torque arm.

I like the idea of grinding off the original tab and using it on the bottom. I will probably mount to centerstand and then do that weld job this summer.

[RevDeal]

I will try to make this my last disappointing post about the bad gas tank, but I drained it tonight to see how bad the flakes were. *sigh* It will have to be redone, or risk having bigger problems down the road. It is already starting to peel. Small flakes and obvious rust penetration.

I had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.

You all already know this if you had to deal with a bad kreem job.

[red]

I had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.

Rev,

Gasoline may help, sure, but ethanol gasoline can rust out a gas tank anyway, regardless of the fill level.  I believe the problem is best avoided/ minimized by using non-ethanol gas in our bikes.  It does cost more, but it's probably easier to get more money than to buy a like-new FJ gas tank.

Find your local sources for real gasoline here:

https://www.pure-gas.org/
 
.

[ribbert]

I had a 40 year old gas tank on my CB750K that looked mint on the inside. Seriously folks, fill the tank up and don't even let it get to this point. This is an altogether waste of money that can be prevented by just putting gas in your bike.

Rev,

Gasoline may help, sure, but ethanol gasoline can rust out a gas tank anyway, regardless of the fill level.  I believe the problem is best avoided/ minimized by using non-ethanol gas in our bikes.  It does cost more, but it's probably easier to get more money than to buy a like-new FJ gas tank.

Find your local sources for real gasoline here:

https://www.pure-gas.org/
 
.

It's funny what you remember from your youth. One of the pearls we were taught at trade school was " it costs no more to run on the top half of the tank than it does to run on the bottom half " This was a comment made in direct relation to tank rust. But, as Red points out, ethanol moves the goal posts in this regard.

Until fitting a fuel cut-off solenoid I would always park the FJ with low fuel to lower the head pressure, thereby reducing the risk of flooding the crankcase. Even so, with almost daily use (and fuel sloshing), the tank remains pristine all these years later.

We are lucky to have good fuel here.

Noel

[FJ1200W]

In the season I run the best name brand premium unleaded I can find.

For whatever reason, around here the bike seems to like Shell V-Power® NiTRO+ Premium Gasoline the best. My bike honestly seems to run better. And, it's high detergent, which I prefer.

https://www.shell.us/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power-nitro-plus-premium-gasoline.html

If I am going to be parking it for any length of time, I'll fill it with the local alcohol free premium. The issue I have in my part of the country is the alcohol free is the lowest grade in regards to detergents, it does not meet "Top Tier", but it is still "OK" as it has to meet some specifications.

I can tell a performance difference though.

Last week a friend and I were discussing fuels and he made a good point. A lot of times customers would come to his shop with cold drive/run issues, it was related to the fuel. Most of the times is was a customer running Premium in a car that called for Regular, and just switch back to regular not only cure the run issues, they gained more miles per gallon. The moral of his story was to use the fuel the manufacturer recommends.  

[RevDeal]

My 1988 FZR 1000 rim and rotors came today. The paint needs to be stripped off and rotors look worn.  Was hoping to not need new rotors.

[RevDeal]

After a careful inspection of my blue dot calipers it looks to me like they will need to be rebuilt as I see some gaskets breaking out of the pistons. Seeing $$$ today, and not in a profitable way.

[Pat Conlon]

Just eyeballing your picture, those FZR rotors look too big.
Good news is that the '89-95 FJ (non abs) rotors bolt up to that FZR rim.

EBay has some good prices on FJ rotors
https://www.ebay.com/itm/L-R-Front-Brake-Discs-Rotors-For-Yamaha-FJ1200-FZR600-FAZER-TDM850-TRX-850-95-00-/263692064203

[RevDeal]

Just eyeballing your picture, those FZR rotors look too big.

You know I didn't even think about that. You're probably right. They are what came with the rim.

[Pat Conlon]

Yea, they look like 320mm dia. rotors which are too big...you want 300mm dia. rotors...
...just get new rotors...front brakes are kinda important on our FJ's...

[CutterBill]

After a careful inspection of my blue dot calipers it looks to me like they will need to be rebuilt as I see some gaskets breaking out of the pistons. Seeing $$$ today, and not in a profitable way.

Of course they need rebuilding. I would NEVER install used calipers without first rebuilding them. Besides, what does a seal kit cost... 20 bucks? 30? Chump change. Brakes are kinda important, ya know...

And don't forget the DOT 5 silicone brake fluid (assuming you don't have ABS.)
Bill

[red]

My 1988 FZR 1000 rim and rotors came today. The paint needs to be stripped off and rotors look worn.  Was hoping to not need new rotors.

Rev,

Looking at the grease streaks around the hub, I'm guessing that the grease seal has failed, and that could mean that the wheel bearing is shot (too much play).  It might be wise to clean and check both of the wheel bearings, while you are there.
.

[Pat Conlon]

I thought that was SOP.
When buying a used rim, always replace the wheel bearings....always.

[RevDeal]

Thanks guys,
I know I should have just planned on rebuilding the calipers. Sometimes you get lucky with used things and they aren't that bad, but what should I have expected for blue dots at $35 dollars for the pair. I do have an ABS model, going to run it without the abs system, but it will be some time before I pull the whole pump and change to an FJR master.

I think I may wait to change out the front till later this summer given that I need to strip this rim and most likely redo the wheel bearings.

If anyone has a good lead on these parts let me know.
-caliper rebuilds (2)
- wheel bearings
- rotors

I do appreciate all the warnings and flags. Once you learn it the first time, you know what to do the next time.

[RPM - Robert]

I might know a guy who has that stuff in stock.

Oh yeah I for sure know a guy.

Blue Spot Caliper Rebuild Kit
Front Wheel Bearing & Seal Kit 84+ Also fit 87-88 FZR wheel
EBC X Brake Rotor